Results 1 to 20 of 20

Thread: E-MAXX Hop-Ups

  1. #1
    RC Enthusiast
    Join Date
    Dec 2007
    Location
    New York, NY
    Posts
    21

    E-MAXX Hop-Ups

    Question - Is it worth upgrading the bulkheads, upper & lower suspension arms and chassis braces. To Aluminum ? Need some expertise... Thanks.

    I have the new E-Maxx!

  2. #2
    RC Champion
    Join Date
    Dec 2005
    Location
    Charlotte, NC
    Posts
    2,230
    Get the best bulkheads you can afford.

    Great Assembly 7075 gets my vote.
    Y-Town Competition Crawlers Team Driver

  3. #3
    RC Racer
    Join Date
    Oct 2005
    Location
    Morgantown, KY USA
    Posts
    169
    Great Assembly 6065 is pretty tough too. I love that they make it easy to get to the lower two shock tower screws. As far as Arms, the only Aluminum arms I would use would be from Unlimited Engineering, but for bashing, a set of RPM arms will go a long way. They are plastic, but won't break like the stock arms. Plus they do not transfer the energy from an impact to other parts as bad as aluminum will. Make sure that you get the 3.3 RPM arms and not one of the older versions. They won't work with the Revo Shafts.

    I also recommend the RPM shock towers. The won't break on you when you flip the truck on its lid. As for the Chassis braces, I have never broken one. Plastic or otherwise.
    Proud owner of a $1200, 16.8v Cow Chaser.

  4. #4
    RC poster
    Join Date
    Jan 2008
    Posts
    18
    Any difference between the FLM bulks and the GA bulks?
    I want to order bulks, shock towers, shocks, springs, skid plates, a new body, RPM arms, spare batteries, and tires. I think I've got it narrowed down except for bulks and tires.

  5. #5
    RC Champion
    Join Date
    Dec 2005
    Location
    Charlotte, NC
    Posts
    2,230
    Quote Originally Posted by THISISWEIRD
    Any difference between the FLM bulks and the GA bulks?
    I want to order bulks, shock towers, shocks, springs, skid plates, a new body, RPM arms, spare batteries, and tires. I think I've got it narrowed down except for bulks and tires.
    From what I have heard FLM parts are fantastic. You'll have the Combo & Hybird Bulkhead Option. In addition to the 6061 Bulkheads.
    http://www.fastlanemachine.com/Publi...9/Default.aspx


    The Great Assembly Bulkheads are available in 6061 and 7075.

    http://www.greatassemblyrc.com/Great..._Bulkheads.cfm

    http://www.greatassemblyrc.com/6061_T_6_Bulkheads.cfm
    Y-Town Competition Crawlers Team Driver

  6. #6
    RC Turnbuckle Jr.
    Join Date
    Mar 2007
    Location
    near New Orleans
    Posts
    5,903
    With the FLM Hybrid bulks you can use 1/8 scale Hot Bodies diffs. They are pre-assembled and practically drop right in the bulk case. The diff will tolerate almost any BL motor and be very close to the OE diff ratio.
    E-Maxx Neu1515 1y/MGM 5s

  7. #7
    RC Enthusiast
    Join Date
    Nov 2007
    Posts
    27
    I have FLM combo bulk with RPM arms and RPM shock tower. I keep stock skid BUT with RPM protection skid AND RPM front bumper : both (skid protection+bumper) really protect the skid which is completely hidden.

    I bash a lot with my Maxx and never broke this part.

    Now I think FLM hybrid bulk should be a better choice than Combo which are limited to diff for Maxx (I bought a Maximizer kit after breaking the stock diff)

  8. #8
    RC Turnbuckle Jr.
    Join Date
    May 2007
    Location
    NY
    Posts
    3,278
    Keep in mind fella's the stock 3905 diff's have been upgraded.. why change out to something that isn't going to be much if any better? Also if you buy 6061, you mid's well buy the traxxas bulks as they 'fit' better. The FLM are fine but they have a small gap between the chassis and the bulk that is not present on the traxxas bulks from my understanding and makes for less stress on your screws. Why don't you see what you will be breaking first? I have to tell ya WOT impact into concrete is going to break something no matter what you do.. lol. As I have noted before you can get stock parts dirt cheap online, many of the tmaxx 3.3 parts are the same as the 3905 as well as some of the revo parts which are very available on ebay for great prices if you shop and watch. If you got any aarms skids etc I would stick with a few of the others and say go w/ the RPM, much more durable than 6061 and cheaper to boot. Always remember aluminum is just going to shift your weak spot so if the bulks don't give and break what is the next part in line and how much harder is it to swap that part out.. just think like that before you replace your entire truck with a 20lb $2000.00 alum proj
    eRevo Neu 1515 1.5d MMM Maxamps 4-2s2p8k 2-3s2p8k

  9. #9
    RC Turnbuckle Jr.
    Join Date
    Mar 2007
    Location
    near New Orleans
    Posts
    5,903
    Quote Originally Posted by stumblin
    Keep in mind fella's the stock 3905 diff's have been upgraded.. why change out to something that isn't going to be much if any better?
    Better than 1/8 scale buggy diffs in an aluminum case? I don't thinks so.

    Howevere stumblin is correct about shifting the weak point. i have an FLM extented chassis to go with the FLM bulks. My weak spot is now my RPM arms, but the are tough and chep to replace. There can be a happy medium.

    Part of the fun is wrenching on my truck.
    E-Maxx Neu1515 1y/MGM 5s

  10. #10
    RC Racer
    Join Date
    Oct 2005
    Location
    Morgantown, KY USA
    Posts
    169
    Quote Originally Posted by stumblin
    I have to tell ya WOT impact into concrete is going to break something no matter what you do.. lol.
    Not completely true. As I said before, I did run full speed (speed is relative to the vehicle I had running stock motors, esc, 2 x Fusion 6 cell 3300 packs, stock gearing, stock tires) into a concrete curb without breaking ANYTHING. The one thing I did forget to mention is that when I use and aluminum bumper, I still retain the stock bumper mounts. Also, I run the bumper mounts a bit shy of tight to allow for some give. When you push on the bumper, the mounts flex a bit. I always run them like that. Anyhow, full speed hits were experienced with my truck, and the speed attained by my truck (although never clocked) was very impressive against some T-Maxx's and Savages at the track. They had better top speed, but I still smoked a lot of them on lap times.
    Proud owner of a $1200, 16.8v Cow Chaser.

  11. #11
    RC Turnbuckle Jr.
    Join Date
    May 2007
    Location
    NY
    Posts
    3,278
    Quote Originally Posted by mkrusedc
    Better than 1/8 scale buggy diffs in an aluminum case? I don't thinks so.
    The jury is still out on this one.. just because it's in a aluminum case doesn't make it any better, if these upgraded diff's hold up over time then yes I do think so. Traxxas took the already good revo design and fixed the issues those had and made them ready for brushless torque, keep in mind the 'old' revo diffs held up pretty impressively anyway.
    eRevo Neu 1515 1.5d MMM Maxamps 4-2s2p8k 2-3s2p8k

  12. #12
    RC Turnbuckle Jr.
    Join Date
    Mar 2007
    Location
    near New Orleans
    Posts
    5,903
    Quote Originally Posted by stumblin
    The jury is still out on this one.. just because it's in a aluminum case doesn't make it any better, if these upgraded diff's hold up over time then yes I do think so. Traxxas took the already good revo design and fixed the issues those had and made them ready for brushless torque, keep in mind the 'old' revo diffs held up pretty impressively anyway.
    The jury may be, but you are saying that a hardened steel 1/8 scale diff in an aluminum case that is part of the bulkhead is not stronger than a 1/10 scale diff in a plastic case in a plastic bulkhead?
    E-Maxx Neu1515 1y/MGM 5s

  13. #13
    RC Turnbuckle Jr.
    Join Date
    May 2007
    Location
    NY
    Posts
    3,278
    I'm saying if it does the job it's just as good.. steel doesn't make you go any faster, and it doesn't do anything special so reguardless if it's stronger or not if it is strong enough for the application is it really worth the 200 in parts?
    eRevo Neu 1515 1.5d MMM Maxamps 4-2s2p8k 2-3s2p8k

  14. #14
    RC Champion
    Join Date
    Oct 2007
    Location
    Marietta, GA
    Posts
    1,472
    looks like i will be the differnet guy

    Your decision on bulks really depend on your driving and what you want.

    Bling Bling and you enjoy running into things then aluminum may be for you

    If your apretty good driver and you dont care about looks and bling, id stay with the Grey ones.

    Remember, changing the aluminum bulks dosent remove the stress, it just moves it to the next weak link
    Mud-Maxx
    NEU 1515 1.5D MM 4s

  15. #15
    RC Turnbuckle Jr.
    Join Date
    Mar 2007
    Location
    near New Orleans
    Posts
    5,903
    Quote Originally Posted by stumblin
    I'm saying if it does the job it's just as good.. steel doesn't make you go any faster, and it doesn't do anything special so reguardless if it's stronger or not if it is strong enough for the application is it really worth the 200 in parts?
    I wasn't talking about speed either. In fact because of the ratio change with the same pinion it will be a little slower. I questioned your comment based on strength. There is no way the Revo spec diff is stronger than a FLM hybrid bulk with a 1/8 scale HotBodies hardend steel diff. And for a highend BL setup it becomes necessary unless you like buying and buliding diffs.
    E-Maxx Neu1515 1y/MGM 5s

  16. #16
    RC Qualifier
    Join Date
    Dec 2007
    Location
    Spaceport, USA
    Posts
    757
    Quote Originally Posted by stumblin
    ...the traxxas bulks... 'fit' better. The FLM are fine but they have a small gap between the chassis and the bulk that is not present on the traxxas bulks from my understanding and makes for less stress on your screws....
    anyone have experience with the fit on the bulks from garc or hardcore racing?
    3905, TeknoNeu 1515/1Y, MMM on 6s & lovin it!

  17. #17
    RC Racer
    Join Date
    Oct 2005
    Location
    Morgantown, KY USA
    Posts
    169
    Quote Originally Posted by FunkedOut
    anyone have experience with the fit on the bulks from garc or hardcore racing?
    I had them on my 3906 and the fit was great. I'm expecting them in the mail anytime now to try on my 3905. Will let you know how that goes.
    Proud owner of a $1200, 16.8v Cow Chaser.

  18. #18
    RC Qualifier
    Join Date
    Dec 2007
    Location
    Spaceport, USA
    Posts
    757
    Quote Originally Posted by navtrtl
    I had them on my 3906 and the fit was great. I'm expecting them in the mail anytime now to try on my 3905. Will let you know how that goes.
    garc, or hardcore?
    3905, TeknoNeu 1515/1Y, MMM on 6s & lovin it!

  19. #19
    RC Racer
    Join Date
    Oct 2005
    Location
    Morgantown, KY USA
    Posts
    169
    Quote Originally Posted by FunkedOut
    garc, or hardcore?
    Sorry, I was talking about the GARC. I just installed them on my 3905 today and they fit fine. The front of the Chassis does not rest on the shock tower mount ears like it does on the stock bulks, but I don't really see that as an issue. I never had an issues in that area before. Don't expect one now.
    Proud owner of a $1200, 16.8v Cow Chaser.

  20. #20
    RC Racer
    Join Date
    Oct 2005
    Location
    Morgantown, KY USA
    Posts
    169
    A little update. I made the above post after successfully mounting the front bulks. When I went to mount the rears, it was a little different. I have the take out the dremel and files to remove some of the chassis material due to the fact that it was hitting the shock tower ears on the bulks prior to the holes on the chassis and bulk lining up. Didn't take much work, but I figured I would mention it since it is no longer a direct fit with the 3905.

    One more thing about the new GARC bulks I just got. I don't know what GARC is doing different, but the holes in the bulk head braces were not threaded all the way through. If I used the screws that came with it, it would bottom out prior to getting the bulks and braces tight. If I used shorter screws, it would get tight, but only about 2-3mm of screw would be in the braces. I prefer the threads of the screw to go into the hole a bit more than that. Aside from these issues, I had no other problems with the bulks.
    Proud owner of a $1200, 16.8v Cow Chaser.

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •