G'Day, I have just finnished running in my new 3.3 Jato and i am having trouble getting it to change into second gear.
I have leaned out the HSN untill you can hear the motor rev out. It still didn't change gear.
I leaned it out even further and noticed the temps went way up to 290F. Still didn't change into second.
I have wound the LSN needle in untill you get a 3 second count before the motor stops when you pinch the fuel line.
At the moment all the nedles are set correct and running at about 250-260F.
Should the 3.3 lift the front wheels on cement if you give it full throttle?
All mine doese it just take off, no need for the wheelie bar.
Any infomation greatly appreciated.
Yes it should, the 2.5 does it without a problem, if you WANT wheelies, try stiffening the rear shocks. As for shifting into 2nd, adjust the trans to shift sooner by turning it counter-clockwise.
Someone here taught me how to, I'll do my best to rewrite it.
Undo the rubber cap over the trans, then spin the brake disc backwards, when you see the notch, hold the disc still and spin the tires untill you see an alan bolt, then loosen it LIGHTLY. Now I don't know how good I rewrote that, whoever told me a couple weeks ago please revise if needed!
Jato 3.3, Revo 3.3, VXL Rustler
Most likely, it's your slipper clutch...99% of the time the reason the truck won't shift is because it's not generating the RPM's to do so. Tighten it so there are 3and 1/2 to 4 threads showing. That should fix the problem.
If all else fails...or when you loose your shift point on your Jato, or cannot find it, tighten the grub screw in your tranny until they know the 2 speed is locked in 1st gear. DO NOT OVERTIGHTEN.....JUST UNTIL YOU FEEL THE LEAST AMOUNT OF TENSION...or you can damage the internal spring.... then they do high speed passes and back out the screw 1/8 at a time until they find the shift point. Just hang in there, you'll find it.
It can be frustrating, and different tire sizes can effect the shift point....most notabley the Talons, Masher's and Moabs. Traxxas reccommends reducing the #of teeth on your cb by 2-4t if going to the talon size tires.
Let us know how it goes
Thanks for the info.
I have just been out playing with the shift point, i have made it shift sooner by 1 1/2 turns but no luck.
I have just come in and read about the slipper clutch.
Never though of adjusting this.
Will tighten it up a tad and give it a go tommorow as it is starting to get dark here.
Thanks again. appreciated.
I have tried tightening the slipper clutch nut up a bit and is now changing into second.
On cement or on the road it won't lift the front wheels.
I have now just wound the slipper clutch nut all the way in and then about 1/2 of a turn out, This gives me about 4 threads showing.
Is this wound in too much? As another 1/2 a turn and the nut is done up all the way?
The HSN is set correctly and the LSN has about a 3 second time when you pinch the fuel line.
Originally Posted by bluesilver
where you have the slipper is fine. I'm glad you got it to shift.
as far as the wheelies go, there are several things you can do.
1. tighten the threads on your shock collars on all 4 wheels(so the springs are pushed down on the shock)...this will preload them and lighten the front end considerably.
2. add a thicker viscousity of shock oil to your rear shocks.
3. add a thicker diff lube such as 100k -150k weight.
i think if you do the first 2, you shouldn't have any problems with wheelies.
let us know how it goes.
I don't have a jato anymore but I did about 2 years ago. It wouldn't change into second either and me and my dad could not figure out why, so we took it back and asked for advice and they said they would sort it. We went back and they said there's no second gear in there! Traxxas forgot haha. We thought it was funny and just brought a second gear and installed it lol. Just thought I'd share that
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Traxxas E-Revo Brushless 1/8
2x2s 40c LiPos 24/54
Also, sometimes its hard to even hear the shift, u wouldnt even notice it and u might think thats its not shifting. As far as the wheelies consider everyrhing above as well as your battery placement, i noticed u said there was no need for the wheely bar, so u dont have one on....which means the battery would be in the mid chassis location....this can make wheelies difficult.
Jato 3.3 Pede 2.5R Rusty 3.3
With A good tune on the Jato 3.3 it should be hard to keep the front wheels down. When I drag race my friends I have to weight the front end down. Stiffening the rear shocks will help it wheelie easier. Try and retune again, start at the factory needle settings and since it probably don't get to cold down under start leaning the hsn in very small increments. Imo 1/8 turn at A time is to much, you can miss the sweet spot. Do the pinch test and adjust accordingly. If you have to lean the lsn then richen the hsn just A tad to balance it back out. Because when you were setting the hsn to start with it was happening with the lsn slightly off. When you get it just right it will be hard to control that little sucker. It will flip over backwards any time you hold the throttle wide open for more than A few seconds, at just about any speed. Here where I live right now, 80 degree f- 80% humidity, my tune is usually close to 3 1/2 hsn and 1 5/8 lsn. Running temps 240-250 hour after hour.
you know the thread is 7yrs old
I wonder if he ever got his jato to wheelie?lol