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  1. #1
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    cc sv3 in a bandit

    Just bought a castle sidewinder 3 esc with a 5700kv motor. Putting it in my son's bandit, and wondering how the diferential will hold up. We plan on using it for short course racing, so we are starting with 90/16 gearing. Thoughts appreciated. (Upgrading from an xl-5, titan 550 motor)
    Last edited by Lboarts; 05-04-2015 at 07:16 PM.

  2. #2
    RC Champion
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    The diffs will hold up just fine. I'm assuming you're running 2s? I would be more concerned with temps running that 5700kv motor but 16/90 is a nice gearing to start with. Have fun!
    Forget G-Rustler, My Name is G-Maxx

  3. #3
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    Yeah, i have two 2s lipos, a 30c and a 40c. Temp is my concern as well, so i am considering cooling fans. Can i run both a motor and esc fan at the same time?

  4. #4
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    yes, but you must make sure you have enough spots in your receiver to plug in both fans
    Rusty 2wd: Dynamite Tazer 3300kv BL System

  5. #5
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    Ok, ty. Was wondering how much run time i would lose running two fans.

  6. #6
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    Not much. It is just like running an LED kit off your receiver. it uses very little power, and won't really affect your run time
    Rusty 2wd: Dynamite Tazer 3300kv BL System

  7. #7
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    Very cool! If you could only run one fan, given my application, would you run an esc or a motor fan? I thought about cutting out the windshield for more air flow around the esc?

  8. #8
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. Petertje60's Avatar
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    I cut a |___| shaped hole in the body of my Bandit so I could bend the lid up to make the air flow over the ESC. Worked like a charm. With a Sidewinder in a 1/10 car I would worry a little more about the ESC than about the motor.
    Nobody is born with experience

  9. #9
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    I am thinkimg even with an esc fan, the cut out may be necessary. The bandit body covers the electonics well, almost too well. still new to rc's, just trying to consider ways to protect the castle system. I ordered a motor cooling fan, which will be as exposed as the motor is. Wondering how man crashes it will be able to handle. I also have an esc fan coming, and my receiver is the stock one fhat came in the bandit. It has four slots so it should run two fans?

  10. #10
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    I run a mamba max with a 4600 in my bandit. The fan is supposed to only run when needed. FYI it runs 95% of the time.

    I have the RPM tranny case and cut all the plastic from the rear section so that the motor is totally uncovered. It leaves the rear and motor unprotected is the bad thing. But removing all that extra weight from behind the rear axel really helps to keep it from raising the frontend. The best thing is it made room for the castle sct motor fan I had laying around which by the way works surprisingly well. The blades are very fragile though.

    If you are up to it you can just solder the two fans together into one plug.

  11. #11
    Marshal Dadx2mj's Avatar
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    Rather than a fan on the motor I would recommend and aluminum tranny case. I have been running a 5700kv Castle motor for years geared 18/86 for every day bashing and rarely see motor temps over 165, on most days temps staydown int he 140-145 rang.
    BlindMan Racing
    Rusty - MERV - Pede 4x4-Alias
    SPC Lipo Power

  12. #12
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    Ty Dad, great idea! Mainly because after mounting the motor today, i noticed the housing may be in the way of the fan and was wondering what to do... Any thoughts on initial punch control and drag brake settjngs for a short course with the sv3?

  13. #13
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    Quote Originally Posted by Jamey View Post
    I run a mamba max with a 4600 in my bandit. The fan is supposed to only run when needed. FYI it runs 95% of the time.

    I have the RPM tranny case and cut all the plastic from the rear section so that the motor is totally uncovered. It leaves the rear and motor unprotected is the bad thing. But removing all that extra weight from behind the rear axel really helps to keep it from raising the frontend. The best thing is it made room for the castle sct motor fan I had laying around which by the way works surprisingly well. The blades are very fragile though.

    If you are up to it you can just solder the two fans together into one plug.
    My receiver has four slots but i am able to solder and will keep this tip in mind, as I currently have two other projects in the works as well. Ty!

  14. #14
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    Another question: the esc doesnt have any mounting holes. Any tips on mounting it?

  15. #15
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    Use double sided tape or velcro straps to tape it on the left side of the chassis,,,, fits perfectly in there

  16. #16
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    Yep esc mounts and screws are way over rated, two sided tapes works great!

    Personally I think the Punch Control is not worth messing with. I think it was an old way to add control but castle is just leaving it included. The newest and best way is the Torque Limit. You just have to do a simple motor kv test and you are all set. I am not a racer but I have messed with it some. Depending on how low your traction is start with a low torque limit value. Keep going up to a higher value until you reach a point where you have all the power you can handle. Probably end up around 6 or 7 again depending on traction. It doesn't change the max RPM, it just reduces acceleration. It actually will extend run times as well.

  17. #17
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    I only have the field controller for it right now, but didnt see a torque limit option on it. I thought thats what the punch control was. Youre saying they are two different settings?

  18. #18
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    Yes two totally separate features in castle speed controllers. Obviously they are meant to do the same thing but the torque limiting feature is a newer design and does the job better. You will need to connect a laptop/pc to the card through USB to get to the torque limiting feature. You can download the software from castle, not sure if I am allowed to post a link but I'll try. You can also update the firmware in the sw if it needs it. My mmp did.

    http://www.castlecreations.com/downl...-download.html

  19. #19
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    Ty for the info. Much appreciated. Will plug into the site tomorrow.

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