First of all, I am a total newbie to R/C Nitro, so please pardon any ignorance on my part regarding these machines.
I just purchased a Nitro Rustler with the TRX .15 engine off of ebay. After 2 weekends I have not been able to get it to start. The engine cranks and cranks (to the point of draining the battery) but it fails to ever start. I have been told this is probably due to the carb settings, and I have tried adjusting the HSN and LSN, setting them to factory specs (HSN 2 1/2 turns out, LSN flush with end of carb) and even tried playing with various settings for them, but still no go. I have also replaced the glow plug/washer with brand new one from Traxxas as well as the header gasket.
My question is, would it be reasonable to assume the engine needs to be rebuilt and if so what would be recommended to replace on it (besides the piston & sleeve). Thanks in advance for for any input on this.
Forgot to add this:
I have pulled the HSN and LSN from the carb and have cleaned them too. I'm using "Monster"(?) 20% fuel.
Last edited by porter92; 11-15-2004 at 03:21 PM.
is there fuel coming out of the exhaust?
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yes. I have tried priming the carb, per traxxas's instructions.
this is what i would do. get a hair dryer n warm p the engine till 150 degresses. then prime for a while. then when starting apply throttle. it should kick over. how old is the gas. and set the carb back to factory setings. idk wat it is for the trx 15. get the os a3 glow plugs they work good. you might need a rebuild. but a rebuild doesnt meen ur car wont start. it would still start. just dye when it gets up to warmed up temps
the hting u hsouldnt have done was take the head gasket out or the hsn needles. what u did. was probably stripped the hsn needle. and it could be stripped. make sure. the head bolts r tight. and raise ur idle speed screw. maybe ur idle is to low
Check the compression of the engine. If you turn the flywheel with your hand it should be hard when the piston is at the top. If it spins easily the engine is bad. Check the blue wire to make sure it is connected to the glow plug and battery. It might not be heating up the glow plug.
Newbies have vehicle problems.----Veterans have money problems.
I don't think the HSN is stipped. It turns back and forth fine, I can close it or open it all the way. I can see how it would be easy to strip it out, but I think its fine. The header gasket was completely shot and needed replacing.
Checking compression. When I turn the flywheel (counter-clockwise) with the glow plug in it takes medium effort to turn (the flywheel kinda moves freely than is hard to turn it, like when the piston is at TDC I suppose). I did read about this in another forum, so why I tried it already.
Last edited by porter92; 11-15-2004 at 05:27 PM.
ok then check ur head bolts. yeah its gonna turn free than hard. i think u have a air leake somewhere.
The idle speed is probably too low, did you try opening the throttle when starting it? Just grab the linkage with your finger, with the truck aimed at you. You'll keep it from going too far.
Did you check your glow plug? Take your plug out and connect it to the blue wire. Hold edge of plug on metal part of cooling head. Does it glow when turning over with ezstart? If NO, Check to make sure yellow wire is secured to engine mount. And Replace glow plug with a new one.
When priming car, Only prime till fuel gets to carb. Then try to start. If fuel is running out of the exhaust. Your flooding it. Also try setting your needles back to stock settings. Then go 1/4 turn lean on the HSN.
when i had the .15 pro it was old too. my car is like 11 years old, and the .15 was just shot after sitting for 10 years, so i fiddled with it and after comparing prices and performance i just upgraded to the 2.5r i wish i would of went with the 3.3 (2.5r runs very hot) but where i was when i started i think going with the 2.5r was a good decision.
Im young. And im Learning.
Yeah, Sometimes its just easier to start with a new engine.
cant wait till i start with a new engine that i break in, ready for the break-in pains LOL, yeah right i know how to tune now. i got 2 pro.15's and 1 2.5 and 1 busted 3.3. the pro.15 has plenty of life and the 2.5 so not sure when i get a new engine.
if raw fuel is coming out then your LSN is too rich you need to lean it in a little also tune your hsn first, make sure when tuning your LSN and pinching the fuel line it rises and then cuts off at about 3-4secs then you should be good.
DEU 8:18 ESV
I know this is an old thread but I am kind of having the same problem. I was running my car today and it was doing great through two tanks. When I went to stat on my third tank the ez start wand would only light up the motor one. I removed the glow plug and checked it against the side of the cooling head and it worked perfect. I even used a brand new plug just to verify. Anyways, now when I got to start it the glow plug light on the wand comes on but not the motor one. I don't think its flooded but I am lost at trying to figure it out. Can someone please help me.
Maybe one day I will be able to do it on my own LOL
does it crank at least?????
The EZ start wands are prone to failure. If you continue to crank until the wand gets hot. The resistors inside the wand burn out. It says in the starting instructions to attempt starts in short durations. 3 to 5 second bursts. If your continually cranking with it. Its probably burnt up.
I just went through the same. i had tried replacing the EZ start motor (because nothing happened when i pressed the EZ start) then that did nothing.. so i just converted to pull start but it was probably the wand the whole time lol
Last edited by Double G; 10-13-2012 at 11:54 AM. Reason: language
Can you turn the engine over by hand? Is your piston stuck at TDC? Check all harness connections. It could be the ground (yellow wire) is loose. Or the motor wires (red and black) are broke. Sometimes they break off inside the rubber shield at the motor. The metal part of the connector will break where it bends making it look OK but actually be broke. If all of that checks OK then the wand could be burnt up. Pull start is the way to go. As long as you have a good tune on the engine. If your tunning skills are poor. Your gonna earn some blisters. Blisters help you learn how to tune better.
Yeah Powerman has the right idea here. The ez starter wands are junk. The older style wands that zip ties to the battery are a little better I think. Getting rid of the ex starter is a great performance upgrade cause you make the truck so much lighter. Go with a pull starter or shaft starter like on HPI trucks. My glow on my wand only lasted a few weeks then I was using an igniter with it for a while. Now i'm a shaft starter fan. Its the only starter that lasted over a year with no issues for me. Ofna makes a nice one for the TRX 2.5 and 3.3; part #50007 for about $15 I think. Good luck
I am not sure if this was the problem or not but I took my ez start off and the front of it where the wires connect was coming off the body of the ez start. I snapped it back on but it still doesn't want to stay on completely. The motor still has great compression and it ran great Sunday morning when me and my buddy went bashing until I broke the rear shock tower lol. I am about to order an RPM shock tower and have been debating and researching going with a pull start. From what I've read they both have pros and cons but I see more pros with a pull start. That's for all the guys!!