Hop-ups for the Nitro 4-TEC
This article is all about the hop-ups you can get for the 4-tec. Everything ranging from aluminum and graphite parts, to re-chargeable reciever battery packs. This will help you if you are looking to fix up your 4-tec to get it handle better, make it faster, or just make it look better.
THE DIFFERENT KIND OF PARTS:
Graphite is a type of part that is available for the 4-TEC, that is mainly used for racing. It is lighter, stronger, and stiffer than plastic. Graphite isn't only good because it saves weight and it's stiff, parts like aluminum and plastic tend to bend more as you keep driving because of the heat increasing throughout the car, so it will cause chassis flex and an un-consistent ride. Graphite keeps it's stiffness through all types of weather and temperature. If you are racing or you just want greater handling out of your car in bashing or racing, graphite is for you. To buy graphite for the 4-tec http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...te&FVPROFIL=++ .Only Traxxas makes the rear shock tower, front tie bar, upper deck, rear brace, and graphite brake disc in graphite. But they haven't had the upper deck in stock for quite a long time now, so you must wait for that part.
Aluminum is a very strong metal, the strongest one next to titanium. Aluminum is often used to make vulnerable parts that would break stronger, such as the rear stub axle carriers or front knuckles. You should only use aluminum if you are having a major problem with a single type of part breaking, or if you just want to make your car shiny. But remember this, if you are to buy say an aluminum rear stub axle carrier, since that part is much stronger now, it can make other parts around it such as the turnbuckle or a-arm more vulnerable to breaking. A plus of the aluminum is that they stiffen the car more for a more consistent ride and the threads that hold the screw will never strip since it's aluminum. Powerline racing and Megatech sells aluminum parts for the 4-tec. I would advise you to go with the powerline, they are more popular plus are easier to find. http://powerlineracing.com/index.asp...S&Category=214 those are all the parts for hte 4-tec. Pretty much every part.
The other parts are plastic and titanium. I will not talk about plastic because they come with the car plus i talked about them in my other article "The Nitro 4-TEC Made Simple." No one sells titanium, but i have seen people make they're own parts out of titanium(i think it was oblivion). Plastic parts can be bought at towerhobbies or your lhs, you can buy titanium in sheets and cut them out to make your own (flat) parts.ie rear shock tower, upper deck etc. etc.
We have covered what you need to know about the parts of your 4-tec. Now to move on to the "other", often overlooked electronics.
Servo's play a vital role in your car. It turns the wheels and moves the throttle. For steering, your servo should have at LEAST 70oz of torque and .16 speed if you want your servo's to actually turn the wheels all the way on the ground at a stop. :-P Stock servo's have a problem, between the gears there is play that cannot be controlled, getting a high-performance servo will take this play away and make the car MUCH more predictable. For throttle, you should at least have around 60-70oz of torque, not just for moving, but for the brakes, more torque increases your brake power dramatically, and again .16 speed. If you blip the throttle during turns, you want a fast servo, a servo that can keep up with your finger. Servo's overall made a huge difference in the handling of the car. Probably the best thing i've ever done for my racing experience. Some servo's are coreless, this means that the servo will create more power and take LESS power from the reciever at the same time. Many people make many different servo's, but www.servocity.com has all the servo's for every manufacter at very reasonable prices. I would recommend hitec or airtonics servo's. When buying servo's, make sure that you get the right connector for the reciever.
The battery pack is what juices up the servo's and reciever. Any stock battery pack has a simple, 4.8v, 4 AA(double A) battery pack. If you want to upgrade your battery pack, you want to get a 6v, 1100mah, rechargable battery pack. This is also a GREAT upgrade, because first of all, it increases your servo power from 4.8v to 6v(remember, the MAX a reciever can handle is 6v), so it will add around 20-30oz of torque and .2-.5 speed more. Which is GREAT! Plus, it is nimh, nimh battery packs will give full power until the end, power will just drop. Let me explain this clearer, for AA batteries, the power gradually goes down slowly,nimh battery packs wil give the same power until the end of the battery pack, so if you see a power decrease, it's going to happen suddenly and the battery will be completely dead. Plus it's rechargable, so no more buying batteries. If you are going to buy a pack, you must get the hump pack, this pack has 3 cells on the bottom and 2 on the top, this is the only type of setup that will fit the 4-tec. Trinity sells a great one, i got it and it's great. http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...?&I=LXVG17&P=7 If you want to get a charger for it, i just got a cheap airtronics overnight charger for 6 bucks at my lhs, im sure your lhs has some type of overnight charger for it.
There are two types of transmitters, digital and non-digital. Non-digital's have knobs for adjusting things like trim. The most features i've seen a non-digital radio have is dual-rate and the normal steering and throttle trim. So if your going to upgrade your radio, forget about non-digital. Digital is the good stuff, it has many things like arc, dual-rate,epa,sub-trim,2 or more model memory,battery display and alot more. If you want to know what those mean or any other electronics term, look here http://www.futaba-rc.com/glossary.html . Futaba,hitec,airtronics, and many other companies make radio systems. What I find to be the best radio for almost anyone who wants to upgrade they're radio is the airtronics mx-3. This is for the average club racer, it provides everything you need for a great price. I have it and i LOVE it. http://www.airtronics.net/airtronics_new_mx3.htm You can also buy rechargable battery packs for your radio, just check with the company to see if they have it.
I am not talking about the reciever because you cannot really upgrade it. Just make sure you know what connector your reciever takes, and prevent it with any contact of water at all times.
OooOo, my favorite part :-D, i will be talking about thinks like differentials, shocks, swaybars,and much more.
There are 2 types of diffs(differentials), gear and limited slip differentials, your car comes with gear diffs, if you want to find out how they work, check out my other article "The Nitro 4-tec Made Simple". If you want to upgrade your diffs, you will get the traxxas ball diffs, these are basically limited slip differentials. These are probably the hop-up that will increase traction and handling the most. Lsd's will help alot with slalom's(going left and right like an S), and basic traction. You can also get some different kind of steering out of it. Since they are adjustable, you can tighten and loosen them without dissassembling anything.If you want to adjust them, look for a hole on the diff(the blue part), after you have found the hole, hold the tire that is on the holes side, then turn the other wheel and you will see that there is a point where there is a complete hole through the diff, stick a 1.5mm hex wrench into it, and turn the right wheel(NOTE:If you have put the diff the right way, you turn the right wheel, so make sure you make the gear aligned with the pulley so the belt will be straight when connected to the diff and pulley) clockwise to tighten, counter-clockwise to loosen. If you want a punchy and twitchy car, tighten it, you usually want the front to be tighter than the rear so the front end pulls the car out of a turn. If you loosen it, it will be more smooth during the turns and predictable. Usually everyone like's it tighter. Plus less dirt will get in the diff if it's tighter. Maintenance on these things is alot. Anytime you feel the diff isn't smooth, you must take the diff apart and re-grease and clean them with the grease that came with your pro ball diff. Pro ball diffs cost 50 each, pricey, but worth it if your racing, http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...?&I=LXLR58&P=7 .
No one makes a one-way differential for the 4-tec, so don't look for it.
Two companies make aftermarket aluminum shocks for the 4-tec, powerlineracing and traxxas. Let's start with traxxas.
Traxxas big bore shocks are much smoother than stock shocks because the bore of the shock is bigger(hence the name "big bore") so more shock oil can be put in it, plus the aluminum bodies are smoother against the shock shaft. Great hop-up if your racing. These is a non-threaded, grey aluminum shocks. 27 for a pair, http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...?&I=LXLR95&P=7 use those for front and rear.
Powerline shocks. These are blue ALL aluminum threaded shocks. Pretty much the same thing as the big bore's except made by powerline, there are threaded so you don't need to use spacers,plus they have aluminum shock ends. I would recommend this for racing over the big bores only because you don't need spacers, the threaded shocks are just so much more convenient. They are pretty much the same price, http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...?&I=LXMW97&P=7 .
Traxxas makes the only swaybars for the 4-tec. Swaybars are bars that connect the a-arms together for more lateral traction and less body roll. Swaybars don't work too well in the rear of the 4-tec because the force that makes the lateral traction becomes too great which just causes the rear end to slide. I would only recommend to use the front swaybar, as you will find putting the rear one on just loses traction. These are adustable from 5 holes in the a-arms. Very cheap hop-up, give'em a try and see how your car handles with them, only 5 bucks http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...?&I=LXLR49&P=7 .
Two basic types of tires, rubber and foam.
Rubber is used for mostly bashing. Threaded rubbers will work best for parking lot's and just plain bashing. There are many different kinds of tires, there are ones with aggressive threads for rough grounds, and "semi-slicks" for nearly clean surfaces. Slicks are for non-dusty surfaces, usually for the track. There are also temperature tires, i would only recommend temperature tires for racing with slicks. If you want to buy threaded tires, hpi has a great selection of threaded tires, they also have slicks, but if you want some good slicks, Sorex makes the best slicks, they grip GREAT and last very long.
Foams are meant for pure racing. Foams will only grip in clean, non-dusty surfaces, if they are used in rocky or dusty surfaces, they will chunk or they just won't grip. Foams are rated with "shores" or colors. The lower the shore, the softer the foam, vice versa. You usually want to start out with something like 37 in the rear and 42 in the front. There are foams meant specifically for the front and rear, and there are ones that can be used for both front and rear. Many companies make foams, TRC(what i use), JACO,and many many others, they aren't too different from eachother, just use what everyone uses at the track.
Springs play a vital role in handling. A springs stiffness is mostly reffered to pounds, ie 14lbs, the spring can hold 14lb's before fully compressing. If you want to change your springs, it matters what your car is in need for. If it is flipping, stiffer springs can help, if it has too much traction causing it to traction roll, stiffer springs will help. If you lack traction, use softer springs. Softer springs will usually cause more oversteer than understeer, vice versa with stiff springs, but if front and rear springs are set correctly for your car, you shouldn't have any of either. Team Associated tc3 springs fit great on the big bores or powerlines, and they pretty much have every spring rating you need.
You cannot really hop-up your shock oil, only change it around. Shock oil also plays a vital role in your car. Say your making a turn, if you have light shock oil, then your car will lean quickly then re-center quickly, if you run thick shock oil, then your car will be smoother and less twitchy. Usually most people like lighter shock oil for the responsiveness and the ability for it to re-bound quickly. You should start out with around 50wt shock oil. Any brand of shock oil will work, just don't use different brands of shock oil in each shock, because some shock oils aren't 100% silicon and are mixed with other compounds or elements. Team Associated, Trinity, and many other brands carry shock oil.
Handling hop-ups are done. Now for some speed hop-ups.
PIPE & HEADER: These two parts make up your exhaust system. Let's start with the header. The header connects your pipe with your engine. When buying a header, you must always check that the opening for the exhaust port on your engine match, and the header isn't blocking any of the port. You want to get a header with the largest diameter possible. You can do "header tuning" for your car, you can cut the header for higher-rpm's, or leave the header alone if you want low-end power. There are many different features and characteristics of a pipe. There are single, double, and triple chamber pipe, usually the more chambers, the quiter the exhaust is. I don't really know what performance difference there is in the amount of chambers. Some characteristics of pipes are backpressure, the width on the belly of the pipe, the length of the stinger, and much more. Usually a fat looking pipe is more for low-end power, a thin, slim pipe is made for more top-end power. The more backpressure the better, since the engine is a 2-stroke, there WILL be un-burne fuel coming into the pipe, so what the pipe does is use backpressure and take some of the fuel back into the engine to get burned. Some pipes, such as the paris turbo ring pipe have ripples for backpressure. Many different companies make pipes. I have the paris turbo ring pipe, in my opinion, that is the best low-end pipe you can get for your car, without sacrifcing any low-end. Some companies just make a fat pipe and it'll give low-end power, but it will sacrifice some top-end, but the paris turbo ring pipe will give power and keep the same top-speed.
GEARING: Gearing is very important, and can boost your acceleration or your top-end more than buying a new engine. If you run in a tight spot, traxxas optional gearing is the way to go. Lower gearing makes a HUGE difference, but it WILL sacrifice alot of top-end, but it's always better to have more low-end than top-end. Gearing makes a big difference for a small price, http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...=GEARS&S3=&S4= the first four are for the nitro 4-tec.
CLUTCH: Clutch's are a very cool upgrade. When you upgrade your clutch, your going to get a clutch that is lighter. So it'll take more rpm's to engage the car. So the engine is going to rev some more before it engages, causing a greater boost of power. But alot of the time lighter clutch's slip, so it's best to keep the stock clutch, and flip it, flipping the clutch will make it engage a little later because the change of position. MIP sells lighter clutches for the nitro 4-tec: http://miponline.com/tenthclutch.html it shows the 4-tec clutch on there.
AIRFILTER: The airfilter plays a major role in the engine, without the airfilter, your engine would've probably have been gone by now. Upgrading your airfilter makes a little bit of a performance increase, but usually people buy a better airfilter for the increased cleaning, not the speed. You want to get the most airflow you can possibly get out of your car. There are two types of filters, paper and foam filters, foam is better for dusty surfaces. But paper filters have a better airflow and is great for on-road, k&n is a paper airfilter with great airflow. But if you want to get a foam filter, motorsaver will be the best choice for a foam filter.
ENGINE: The engine is what makes your car move. Getting a new engine is great. You get more power and it feels like a whole new car. There are many brands of engines,o.s.,traxxas,xtm,picco,sirio,rossi,novaros si,ofna, and more. When getting a new engine, you want to look for features such as a rear exhaust, 3-needle carb, ABC construction, a knifed con-rod,and at least 4 ports. Some engines have special characteristics, the picco(what i have),sirio,novarossi, and rossi are very punchy engines on the low-end and have lot's of top-end, these are basically the good top of the line engines. These are very re-liable and easy to tune, some people say they are hard to tune, they are not, they just have a very sensitive carb, so you must tune very gently, my picco is AWESOME, it gives absolubtely no problems, great power and very puncy,idle's great, hold's it's tune great, and it's pretty easy to tune.
We have went over all the hop-ups you can get for your 4-tec. Your probably thinking, hmm, that's it?? Well, there aren't many hop-ups for your 4-tec, once you have gotten all of them, it all matters on you, how you tune your tec for handling and speed. Good luck with your 4-tec, show them that traxxas isn't only for bashing!
Hello, so iv started using hps x-cut D compound tires and they have a crazy amount of grip so much so that the factory glue can't seem to hold up and I peeled 2 tires one almost completely off in the space of about 2 tanks of fuel, I don't want to give up the cornering speed iv gained because the glue can't handle it so I'm just wondering g if somebody can suggest a glue or glue type that might hold the stress a lil better?
You may have to buy the thickest tire glue you can find and wait a day or 2 for it to cure, depends on brand and how thick it is.
Good Stuff! This has been stickied.
Pain is Temporary, Pride & Achievement is Forever.
Man how long does it take you to type all that?
My last one took around 4-5 hours, and this one took about 3 or 4 hours. I got alot of time on my hands during the weekends.
One big: looks that you make your homework, but I found a little mistake up to this moment ( I'm resting my eyes). Stock batteries packs have 6.0 volt, because are meant to work with 4 alkalines, that have 1.5 volts each, but if you use rechargable AA you will need to use 5, because this ones have 1.2, so 4 will make 4.8 .
I will continue reading o see if there any other mistake.
My R/C garage
Serpent 710, Team Losi XXXNT, HPI Micro, 2 Trinity Reflex NT, C&Y 1/8 Sacker Buggy, 1/8 Picco Integra and an Electric Street Sport.
What are my option for diff engines shafts
I have the first version of the traxxas N4Tec
Thanks for the suggestion
i got a question for ya regarding both this post and the other one about the 4-tec first i thought steel was much stronger then aluminum but heavier, thats why aluminum peices are much thicker then the steel counter parts and more heavily braced(this is not necicarily refering to our hobby) allso i know its true you do want to add after run oil to an engine after each run( i do) but as i recal the only thing in our engine that can rust is the crank wich is usally pretty heavily coated with oil
no one told me it couldnt be done, so i did it
Aluminum IS stronger than steel. Period.
Why would the crank be "heavily coated with oil?" If you mean that there is more fuel there, it doesn't matter, even if you have more oil in your fuel, the fuel will still turn into water. Also, after run oil isn't just for preventing rust, it lubes up all the moving parts and joints.
the crank is covered with oil from the fuel residue, granted it will come off and can rust eventully thats why we use after run oil, but the fuel if filled with oil, and are you sure for 100% positive that aluminum is tronger then steel cause ive never ever heard or sen that, a steel punch will tear up aluminum a surface prep wheel will cut right through aluminum but not steel, aluminum's attoms are apced further apart and its much less dense there fore its light ter but i believe not as strong, but please correct me if i am mistaken
no one told me it couldnt be done, so i did it
I have been looking for a suitable K&N filter for my Nitro 4-tec, so far no luck. I have looked on Surfers rides and I see that people have it. So if anyone can give my information then please do.
nope. steel has a much greater strength to area ration than aluminum. it is much heavier, which is why a large slab of aluminum is equal in strenght and weight to a much smaller piece of steel. another thing, steel can bend and absorb a bit of the impact, whereas aluminum is much stiffer.Originally posted by OneBigMan647
Aluminum IS stronger than steel. Period.
I was looking on the K&N filter web site and it showed a universal filter and i was about the size of a Nitro air filter so if you have any Ideas or recommendations of any K&N filter for my 4-tec, TELL ME,
I got my k&n airfilter from ebay and it fits greatOriginally Posted by I-want-K&N
K&N themselves say not to use that filter for nitro engines. It lets small particles in. You're going to regret running it.
RIP Bart Hinson
There is nothing wrong with rear sway bars. Get better tires! And the sway bars work fine
Yeah my rear sway bar helps all I had to do was add some racing slicks.
How do you install a hop-up brake? And which kind of brake do you recommend?
See I told you, Punk!
Stock 4-tec brake sucks !!! Fuel from the carb gets on it and its all over !!! I want a brake like the TC-3 has, awsome !
Traxxas for sures !!!
Anyone know how to keep fuel from getting on the brake disc ??
Traxxas for sures !!!
Originally Posted by TRD_GTS_03
put a lil piece of plastic over it
Onebigman, what's your take on the 3 degree suspension mount? Wouldn't it give a massive oversteer if your back wheels weren't up to par?
I personally have never tried it. But from what I have heard, it is a complete waste, and even though I've never tried it I agree. With the stock 0-degree suspension mount I already get more than enough steering. I don't see how any driver can possibly want even more steering.
The only possible use I might see is to balance the steering out. With the stock spacers that you adjust caster with, you can adjust them to give either more high-speed or low-speed steering. I don't know if the 3-degree suspension mount will increase ONLY low-speed or high-speed steering. So if you have a track with lot's of high speed turns and low-speed turns, and the 3-degree mount gives only low-speed steering, you can set your caster spacers for high-speed and get the same amount of steering in every type of turn. Vice Versa. I hope you understood that.
I say give it a shot, you always want to try different things and learn from experience.
Do you need to run a pro diff in the front &rear or can you just run them inthe rear
Will the New OFNA/Picco .21 Small Block designed for the T-Maxx fit my 4-TEC?
This engine must propel my 4-TEC like a rocket, what do you think? Will it fit and how much faster can a 4-TEC go with this motor?
I think that many other people say it fits with minor modification; I don't have the money to test it out myself, so I go with other inputs.
I also think that there are more powerful picco .21's.
There's also some people on these forums that are running .26's, if you just want power.
I've also heard that phantom 18's are pretty beastly.
Either way, you really don't need a high peak hp. You need to find an engine that has a large power spectrum. I thought hp was the bottom line, but it's true what everyone else has told me. I wish companies would release power spectrum charts from the dyno's, cause that would lead to the best engine decision.
Yes, you can put in the .21max with some cutting and grinding.
I have installed this engine in my Tec with some different gearing for top speed. The car screams. Right now I am working with some exhaust pipe options.
Check it out on page 4 surfers rides.
Just wanted to add one thing about the shocks. The threaded shocks that are made for the AE nitro TC-3 are a direct fit and they work very well. My Experience is that more hobby shops carry these, and the replacement parts if you break anything, as opposed to the powerline ones
tricked out rs4 3, tricked out n4t, a little tricked out Hawk and Clod buster and a kinda stock rc10gt plus
Guys, i have a N4T-Pro, after a collusion of some rocks, e transmission seems not to be working, i tried changing the shift point frm tight to lose, precisely, but nothing ever helped. I even changed the "piece where the shift point can be tuned, but no effect at all..help me please..sorry my english bad..
-Fear the drift king-
For braking the est thing would be a steel vented or carbon fiber I prefer the carbon one. Also for K&N they have them on ebay.
Great job man!!
HEY GUYZ! I AM WONDERING IF I SHOULD BUY THE MIP BOOST KIT FOR MY NITRO 4 TEC?? OR IF I SHOULD JUST BUY A NEW TUNE PIPE INSTEAD! I WOULD APPRECIATE IF U HELPED ME OUT ON THIS ONE! O YEH AND I WAS WONDERING IF U CAN TELL EASILY IF IT HAS A MIP BOOST KIT! wut i mean IS DOES IT IMPROVE YOUR CARS BOTTOM END ACCELARATION A LOT??? I WOULD BE THANKFUL IF U HELPED ME OUT HERE! THANKS!!!!
Definetly get aq tuned pipe the boost bottle doesnt do anything . The stock plastic pipe sucks so replace it.
Traxxas Tuned Pipe has worked fine for me and it looks really good.
"How fast was I going Officer?" Wow?
The platis one well ya that works fine and looks eh ok but you could get a dynamite pipe that looks so much better and alot better performance for 30 bucks.
Flying from the netherlands
Searching to find the best hop up parts for sale for the new Traxxas 4tec nitro 4wd at Towerhobbies.
Can anyone give me details about which good hop up parts to buy at towerhobbies? I cannot shop in much other stores in US because shipment and -fees must be done too, to get it to the Dutch shore
Maybe i can then make it a better controleable 'flying' 4tec.
can someone give me the best advise which parts to buy?
with strength comes fragility, in other words the stronger the metal the easier it will shatter, aluminum is only stronger in the sence that it wont snap, but it will bend, and it will bend at a much easier rate than steal. but on the other hand steal will break at a much easier rate than aluminum. so for an rc enthousiest aluminum would be the best material because, even if you do hit something, any small bends in the material can usualy be fixed and aluminum is much lighter
Im making a few sets of aluminum parts for the 4-tec in my machine class on the cnc, ie A-arms front and rear, servo mounts, prity much every thing that they dont make out of carbon fibor for the 4-tec im going to make out of aluminum. Im willing to sell 5 separate sets of the aluminum, these will be full sets. im not positive what exactly will be included, but if you bought them off t-hobbies or something they would be like $150 im going to make these then polish them so they are very shiny, im thinking some where around $70/set. if your interested email me at DirBiKidnma@hotmail.com and i will email you back with information concerning the parts, ie what parts, price, shipping info. let me know thanks