I spent a year in Brag back in 03. That's when I bought my RS4-2, ha! I didn't know of any tracks for on road near by, and I'm pretty sure we looked. There was one hobby store and it was terrible. I think the actually sold cigarettes in the shop too. I drove over an hour to purchase the RS4 too. As for tires, good luck. I have had the best luck with HPI X Pattern but even those only lasted about 5 tanks or less. I have one tec for drifting (now a shelf queen) and the other is for dirt (rally car). I just used the HPI vintage tires to break in. The tread started separating from the sidewall. The tread is still like new but the tire is falling apart. Never saw that before. The Tec eats tires like crazy. I tried foams too and huge chuncks just started pealing off. By the time I was done, one of the tires was completely burned off down to the rim. So.....sorry, can't really help you out with a tire recommendation. I bought a carbon fiber disc break from New Era hobbies. Honestly, I think the stock one works a lot better. It takes a lot to stop a 70mph RC.
As far as Short Course trucks. I have a 2WD slash VXL which is awesome (and cheap...as in inexpensive) and a Slayer Pro which is awesome! The Slayer, there aren't a whole lot (none as far as I know of) upgrades or hope ups. Not even RPM A Arms out for it. As for the Slash, 2 or 4WD, there are endless upgrades available. I have 4 Nitros and 1 electric. Love the Nitro so I am going to be bias. But I have a lot of fun with both. So it's going to come down to personal pref. Hope this helps!
If you can't beat it....destroy it!
Sweet man thanks for the help. Yeah I will try the x-patterns. Yeah I was leaning towards the electric slash. Does anyone with a 4-tec have issues with HPI bodies not fitting properly?
Air4-tec.. the HPI bodies should fit fine, you may have to fiddle with the body post holes.. I've seen just about everything mounted on a Nitro 4-tec.. just make sure to get the 200mm bodies or the wheels will stick out too far..
As far as a recommendation for tires, I only run foams, and its hit or miss with them.. I run 30mm rear and 28mm up front.. I've been running the cheap ones from ebay lately as they don't last that long, maybe 6-8 tanks at best, but I get more out of them than the rubber ones.. I'm lucky if I get a tank or two before they blow up..
Short course trucks... Slash 2wd or 4wd.. I've been running a slash 2wd for a couple of weeks now and I love it.. Its a friends truck and we literally beat the stuffing out of them.. Head on collisions and constant crashing and the only damage seems to be a C hub or shock every now and then.. He has a slash vxl 4wd that I really like..The handling is about same as the regular slash, but the brakes are unbelievable.. Wish my 4tec could stop like that.. Either one of the trucks are super tough and alot of fun to race..
Maxx3.3/ rusty5700/ slash3800/ slash5700 /4tec3.3
hi .... a rusler with a .18 trubo os nice combo had it sinc 2007 i cant be stop on my locol track
M going to buy a 4 Tech 3.3 in a couple of days from dubai and i live in Pakistan where there is no parts available for this car except for the fuel. can you all please suggest what else should i buy with the car for future breakages or any hopups which are necessary.
Please also suggest tyres for drifting are the stock tyres and wheels durable.
I would get some extra belts, maybe tranny gears, glow plugs (3232X seem to work the best for me), and maybe the body that you really like with some paint. If you break something and have to wait for parts, painting a new body would give you something to do while you wait. And if you break a front or rear belt, you can still get away with front or rear wheel drive only, at least until parts arrive. You never know what you are going to break. Seems like I break something different every time I crash. So if the parts are within your budget along with the vehicle purchase, throw them in too. A arms, bulk heads, differentials, pullys, etc. Better to have them and not need them, than need them and not have them.
The stock tires should be fine for drifting. I have an older 3.3 and I think the newer ones come with slicks now. I use PVC/ABS pipe and cut out my own drift tires. One 10ft piece of pipe will give you quite a few sets of tires. However, if you get 2 inch pipe (i think it was 2 inch, it's been a while) you will have to sand down the stock wheels a little to make them fit. Then just hot glue them and they are perfect for drifting!
If you can't beat it....destroy it!
thanks for ur input.
Any more suggestions?
Glow plugs are necessary
air filter oil
any thing else?
The Nitro 4-Tec was my first on road car as well. I did almost exactly the same thing most people do with this car and ran it head on into a parking block. I basically destroyed the front end and steering servo, however, after getting all the parts and fixing the car, I was able to wrench most any of my other subsequently purchased RC cars, nitro or electric. The Nitro 4-Tec is a great car and I look forward to getting a new one soon. In the meantime, I am looking forward to driving my new Traxxas Boss 302 Mustang which just arrived today!!!!
to much info
OK i need some help i need some spur gears bcuzz wen i was driving my 4-tec something happened and i saw some little smoke coming out of the Back right side of my car and i found out that both of my spur gears had some teeths melted idk how but they still work but im curious that they will affect my cars performance. My 4-tec came with both optional gears (1st gear 45t & 2nd gear 41). But i also read in a thread that "more teeth= more acceleration" and that "less teeth= more top speed" and its hard to pick bcuzz i want good top speed and good acceleration... i was thinking that i should buy 1st gear 41t and 2nd gear 41t therefore i have top speed and acceleration...its hard to think but i need some advice before i buy em'...
That is correct. Check that body out on ebay. Just bought one for $20 minus shipping. The guy had 4 left...they were on sale.
If you can't beat it....destroy it!
I would also like to say sometimes I have some trouble with my 4-tec
with flooded engines and so on. So my number one tip would be hold it evenly.
Does anyone know if there are tyers with rims that are32 mm rear instead of 30 mm.im still going to run 28mm in the front thank you so very much.
Last edited by brent69; 10-17-2012 at 12:51 PM.
Thank You for your time and your reply.
i am a newbie at the RC world. Recently purchased a used car, I think it is a 3.3? Anyway, I can't get the transmitter and receiver to link together. I hope I didn't get skunked. I put new batteries in the transmitter and in the car (receiver). I turn on the transmitter then the receiver, but the transmitter keeps blinking red. I do hear a slight buzz when I turn the receiver on, so I think it is functioning correctly. I don't think the transmitter is original, it is a hpi-racing TF-11.
Anyone help me out?
Hi I see on the website that traxxas is out of Nitro 4tec's and I have looked at many websites but cannot find a place that sells them, would anyone know the reason behind this and or knows where I could buy one?
So its hpi transmitter and reciver call hpi im sure they can tell you
Does the steering assembly rub the front drive belt an a 4tech
I'm wondering if you can point me in the direction of general engine maintenance, when I pull my glow plug I can see buildup on the top of the piston and I'm not really sure how to approach it
First id say you have to take the engine apart in a clean area and use a soft cloth to clean the buildup. The build up may be coming from glow plug failure or too rich of a fuel/air mixture. Try tuning your HSN/LSN(Watch out because small changes can be drastic).
Here's an article on cleaning an engine if you have time to read it
5-Step engine cleanup
It's amazing how many of us expect our engines to run well no matter how we neglect them or how dirty they may be. Not only is it difficult to see broken and loose parts through dirt, but a filthy engine is also just plain ugly. If you haven't been able to see your crankcase or carburetor in months because of a filth buildup, this article is for you.
1) DE-GUNK IT! Engines and exhaust systems run best when they are clean. A clean engine dissipates heat more effectively (baked-on grime retains power-robbing heat), and it's easier to solve a problem when your engine is clean because you can actually see its components. If your engine runs poorly and is so dirty that it looks as though you dipped it in chocolate and rolled it in sawdust, don't bother to troubleshoot. Get cleaning!
* First, remove your engine from your vehicle, and then use an old toothbrush or a stiff-bristle paintbrush to rub away as much grime as you can. Aerosol nitro cleaners work well as long as the gunk buildup hasn't been left for so long that it's baked onto the engine like armor. Before you use the cleaner, remove the air cleaner and the exhaust header, and stuff little wads of paper towel into the engine openings. Next, slide a thin rag between the flywheel and the front bearing, wrapping it around the flywheel to protect the front bearing (an old Ron Paris tip). Spray the engine liberally with nitro cleaner, and wipe away the excess cleaner with paper towels and your trusty old toothbrush. Using paper towels and a brush, clean your engine, reinstall the air filter and the exhaust, and remove the rag from the flywheel.
* So far, so good. If your engine or exhaust has been dirty so long that the gunk has baked and become varnish, disassemble the engine and use an RC nitro cleaner (Trinity's Nitro Blast, for example) to loosen and remove this varnish. If your engine needs more help than nitro spray can provide, try Gunk, which is an automotive engine cleaner. If you have to resort to something even stronger, wear rubber gloves and eye protection, and be aware that really aggressive cleansing agents may strip off any coatings your engine has (goodbye, anodizing and paint); these products are best reserved for raw aluminum). But if you've allowed your engine to get so dirty that milder products don't work, really strong cleaners may be your only option to restore your engine's performance and looks.
2) CLEAN GLOW-PLUG AREA. You'd never intentionally dump dirt into your engine's combustion chamber, would you? For this reason, before you remove the glow plug from the cooling head, you must thoroughly clean the area around it with motor spray. If you don't, you risk allowing the dirt that has collected around the glow plug to drop into the combustion chamber.
This maintenance "trick" isn't difficult or time-consuming, so be one of the few who take the time to clean this area before you remove the glow plug. If your engine runs poorly and you plan to install a new plug to fix this, clean the glow-plug area first. At the end of a day of running, allow your engine to cool completely, and then clean the area around the glow plug before you drop after-run oil into the glow-plug hole. (You do use after-run oil, don't you?)
3) REBUILD THE CARBURETOR. Many of us rebuild our engines with replacement parts for everything except the carburetor. These engines are usually the ones that are hard to tune and never seem to hold a "good tune" if you do manage to tune them. If your engine still has good compression, your carb's 0-rings may be causing the problem. These small, rubber 0-rings on the needle valves serve a dual purpose: they seal the needles against air and fuel leaks, and they provide the resistance against their housings that's required to keep the needle-valve settings stable while you drive the car.
* First, turn each needle with a screwdriver to check for resistance. Do the needles feel loose and offer hardly any resistance when you turn them, or are they very difficult to turn? If they feel loose, the 0-rings have worn out; replace them. If a needle is hard to budge, its 0-ring has probably torn and is binding up the threads. In either case, your carb may have an air leak or a fuel leak and simply needs a rebuild.
* Some engine manufacturers offer engine-sealing kits. The kits typically include every seal you'll need for the carb, and some have other engine seals, too. If you don't find all the seals you need in one package, check your engine's manual for the individual 0-rings' part numbers, and order them from the manufacturer. 0-rings are cheap, and replacing them is an affordable fix for carb leaks and erratic engine performance. This is the most overlooked area of maintenance, yet it may be the one thing that makes a difference between running a temperamental, difficult-to-tune engine and one that's a breeze.
4) SEAL IT. After you've cleaned your engine thoroughly (or you'll contaminate inner areas) and replaced any worn carb parts, seal certain areas to further protect it. Sealing takes only a few minutes, and it can save you hours of frustration later. Take the engine out of your vehicle, and remove its carb and back-plate. I recommend a high-temperature, oxygen-sensor-safe automotive silicone sealant such as Permatex Ultra Copper (available in auto-supply departments of hardware stores). Use a small flat-head screwdriver or the end of a zip-tie to apply a bead of sealant around the carb neck and the backplate area. Don't apply too much; excess can easily be sucked into the engine. Reinstall the components, allow the sealant to cure overnight, and your engine will be ready to go.
5) REPLACE THE FUEL TUBING REGULARLY. This is yet another relatively cheap, easy-to-replace item that is often overlooked. Over time, fuel tubing is likely to crack or develop tiny puncture holes, and most bashers will run it until it fails. Unfortunately, a leaky fuel tube can mimic defects such as bad needle settings and a dead glow plug, so it's difficult to track down the cause of the problem. Incorporate fuel-tubing replacement into your engine-maintenance routine, and you'll avoid problems. When you route the fuel tubing, keep it away from moving gears and drive shafts, and the fuel-delivery and pressure lines should not be longer than 10 inches. Excessively long fuel tubing can be kinked easily, and this will starve your engine of fuel.
No one can expect an engine to perform well forever, but good maintenance can help you to avoid poor performance caused by negligence. Simple maintenance steps such as the ones outlined here will quickly become a habit if you do them regularly. Don't be that guy with the filthy "mystery engine"; keep your 2-stroke clean for better performance and easier problem-solving.
Credit goes to Stephen Bess from RCCA
Last edited by NeonVortex57; 04-11-2016 at 09:27 PM.