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  1. #121
    Marshal Double G's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by maxidodies View Post
    Hope a mod sees this and will update the first post of this thread.
    Good post and yes I did.
    The Super Derecho

  2. #122
    blunts4m3
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    The unfortunate part of this is, here is the only place where I can find the information I need to reset my carb etc etc, and that link on the first page, doesnt work, apparently again. Perhaps if I pm this Double G fella he will fix it again.

  3. #123
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    I bought the 2.5 T-Maxx from an attorney in the box, he said he drove it for a few mins and it died and did not want to start,so he shelved it, men I was really happy the thing was brand new ITB, anyways Itried to run the motor, and believe me i have been into these Nitro engines for a lots of years and own a performance shop, to make a long story short, I went out and bought the 3.3 and thought breaking it in by the books,I would have a good truck,I dont know if I got a bad motor cause the thing ran like crap out of the box..I live in So. Cal,weather similar to texas, why cant these motors be like our airplane motors, that runs every time,without all the break in crap, I was so frustrated and seen this guy driving a TA 4.6 MGT, and I bought it from him...thing starts and runs perfect, I'm not putting Traxxas down, as I bought an e-maxx and love it except I am a Engine noise type of guy..just my 2 cents about The 2.5 and 3.3, just too much to deal with and getting a bad rap, hopefully traxxas will come up with some kind of breaking in their engines so everybody could have a good time with their product...Tnx




    Quote Originally Posted by Misbehavin' View Post
    You didn't follow break-in, and then you drove it in sub-zero temps (and I'm assuming made no provisions to keep heat in the motor since you didn't mention it). So to me, it looks like you're piston and sleeve wore out early, based upon your symptoms. I imagine you leaned it way out to get the temps up.

    So then because you didn't follow directions, and wore your motor out early it's the fault of the motor?


    No, most people don't abuse their equipment as you have. If you drained the oil from a Ford Taurus and then locked the motor up running it without oil, would it be the fault of Ford? No, of course not. You were the reason.

    The same thing applies here, as it sounds like you starved the motor for oil. Then you complain as if it's not your fault...
    gonna be exactly the same pretty much!! play with it and keep on playing(tuning) it
    Last edited by Double G; 07-31-2012 at 04:41 PM. Reason: merge

  4. #124
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. Nitronaught's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by cherokee77 View Post
    I bought the 2.5 T-Maxx from an attorney in the box, he said he drove it for a few mins and it died and did not want to start,so he shelved it, men I was really happy the thing was brand new ITB, anyways Itried to run the motor, and believe me i have been into these Nitro engines for a lots of years and own a performance shop, to make a long story short, I went out and bought the 3.3 and thought breaking it in by the books,I would have a good truck,I dont know if I got a bad motor cause the thing ran like crap out of the box..I live in So. Cal,weather similar to texas, why cant these motors be like our airplane motors, that runs every time,without all the break in crap, I was so frustrated and seen this guy driving a TA 4.6 MGT, and I bought it from him...thing starts and runs perfect, I'm not putting Traxxas down, as I bought an e-maxx and love it except I am a Engine noise type of guy..just my 2 cents about The 2.5 and 3.3, just too much to deal with and getting a bad rap, hopefully traxxas will come up with some kind of breaking in their engines so everybody could have a good time with their product...Tnx
    gonna be exactly the same pretty much!! play with it and keep on playing(tuning) it
    You can't compare a large block Nitro airplane engine to a land vehicle Nitro engine. They are not designed for the same things... For one thing thei discplacement makes them much more forgiving on needle settings, so is the amount of toque required... Airplanes require HP more than torque and land vehicles require more torque then HP... So they are going to run and tune differently........ Simple.

    I own 3 TRX engines. my first engine was the TRX 2.5, I was new to nitro , didn't know how to tune, but I followed the instructions had my learning curve and it went 4 gallons. I rebuilt it with a new piston and sleeve, even added the 2.5r cooling head and it went 8 gallons before it starting losing perfomance but I still ran it for another 4 gallons to see if it would finally die,,, it would still run but needed a new piston sleeve and front bearing... It's shelved for now...
    Engine 2 is a 3.3. Went 7-8 gallons and I just rebuilt that one and broke it in... HAs about 1/3 of a gallon through it and it's starting to wake up.....
    Engine #3 is on it's 5th gallon and running fine...

    I race at a track with a bunch of Traxxas RC's (mainly short course trucks now)... I've rebuilt engines for others at the track and helped some of the newbies.... Lost count after 20 odd of them... They get ran every weekend at the track with quite bit of run time on them and the only times I see issues there is physical evidence that it was ran too lean or too rich... Now the causes of those mixtures to be off can range from a leak, to just poor tuning....

    Just my experience with these engines....

    That previous owner could have already damaged the engine prior to you touching it... Just by running it without breaking it in could have stressed the internals enough for them to fail no matter how you may have treated it....

    I find your post not exactly very fair to Traxxas since you have no clue what the previous owner did... 30,000 rpms without being broken in would do the trick perfectly...

    Your quote of Misbehavin' seems in respons to something he had seen, like in a picture... And if that previous owner ran his RC without tuning he would be correct in his observation, but I think you forgot to include that tidbit of information in your post....

    This thread was designed to help people with tuning, not to complain of a bad experince you had buying a used Nitro RC.
    All Lives Matter

  5. #125
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    Im still having problems tuning my trx runs good but no where near as snappy as the ones ive seen thats been tuned in I cant figure out where im going wrong tuning it

    Its not peppy until its rolling already you if I qtr throttle it it kinda sputs but if I nail it itl kick in I just put new clutch and and fly wheel on idk if I have the idle pin set wrong or my lsn isn't set right would like to run it more in the process of try to tune it I cracked my bulkhead (rear)
    Last edited by Double G; 02-10-2015 at 11:58 AM. Reason: merge

  6. #126
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    I have a 3.3 but I can't seem to keep it idling. I have tried everything but nothing has worked. Can anyone help?

  7. #127
    RC Racer slidin6ofem's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by 12TRAPTOR View Post
    I have a 3.3 but I can't seem to keep it idling. I have tried everything but nothing has worked. Can anyone help?
    Does it start? How long does it run until it dies? New rig or new to you? I had a real tough time tuning mine until 1. it was broken in plenty and 2. was all warmed up.

  8. #128
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    My 3.3( running of of 33% nitro) will not seen to tune in right, it won't start. Nor stay running. Please help.
    Thank you in advance.☺

  9. #129
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    Reset to factory tune of 4 turns HSN, 1n3/4 LSN and idle gap of 1.0mm. Fresh plug too, see how that does for u. Hope this helps.
    When in doubt, throttle out!!!

  10. #130
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    Ok so this is a long thread to try and sort out this problem on a phone but i just got a slayer pro i broke in the 3.3 running 33% but even with the hsn at 5+ turns and the lsn around .5 to .75 turns out from factory it seems to be detenating i have black plugs with the coil almost always protruding from the plug now i have plenty of rich blue smoke and its quite responsive but stalls after a long run but if ran in short burts it will stay runnin till i blow a plug and it has just under a gallon of gas thru it
    any help would be awsome thx
    Last edited by Mrsickaluffigus; 03-27-2016 at 01:56 AM.

  11. #131
    Marshal Double G's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Mrsickaluffigus View Post
    Ok so this is a long thread to try and sort out this problem on a phone but i just got a slayer pro i broke in the 3.3 running 33% but even with the hsn at 5+ turns and the lsn around .5 to .75 turns out from factory it seems to be detenating i have black plugs with the coil almost always protruding from the plug now i have plenty of rich blue smoke and its quite responsive but stalls after a long run but if ran in short burts it will stay runnin till i blow a plug and it has just under a gallon of gas thru it
    any help would be awsome thx
    Your HSN is too rich and trying to compensate for a too lean LSN so you may have smoke up high but trouble with idle and high temps down low. Go back to factory LSN setting of 1.75 and an idle gap of 0.7-1.0mm open and HSN at 4. Typically the HSN will need to be leaned a little and the LSN needs to be a touch rich from factory.
    The Super Derecho

  12. #132
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    Even runnin 33% i thought i was suppost to run it rich with a higher nitro content

  13. #133
    Marshal Double G's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Mrsickaluffigus View Post
    Even runnin 33% i thought i was suppost to run it rich with a higher nitro content
    Again :

    Quote Originally Posted by Double G View Post
    Your HSN is too rich and trying to compensate for a too lean LSN
    The Super Derecho

  14. #134
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. Nitronaught's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Mrsickaluffigus View Post
    Even runnin 33% i thought i was suppost to run it rich with a higher nitro content
    I recommend reading this https://traxxas.com/forums/showthrea...ul-Tuning-tips

    Yes i posted earlier in this old and long thread, but it's very obvious you have not gone over it or your questions/statements would be different.
    All Lives Matter

  15. #135
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    Its too hot richen high speed needle should run 160 to 190 no hotter if u dont see blue smoke its to lean
    Last edited by Double G; 04-30-2016 at 07:16 AM. Reason: merge/duplicate post

  16. #136
    Marshal Double G's Avatar
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    That is too cold. Should run low to mid 200's.
    The Super Derecho

  17. #137
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    3.3 in rustler all broke in clocked today at 91 mph superfast scarry at 91

  18. #138
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. Nitronaught's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Dura36 View Post
    Its too hot richen high speed needle should run 160 to 190 no hotter if u dont see blue smoke its to lean
    At 160-190 degrees your internals are not fully expanded and you are putting a lot of undue stress on your conrod and piston...

    Where and how are you measruing those temps.... No way are you hitting hose speeds... Your conrod is swimming in fuel inside the casing at those speeds you are reporting and surely this i swhen the conrod get's stretched and or splits from the stress.

    Mfr recommended running tems AT THE GLOW PLUG should be between 210-260 no more than 270 and no lower than 200.....


    91 mph with a poorly tuned 3.3 (160-190 it's not tuned right)

    Obviously you did NOT read the link I provided.
    All Lives Matter

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