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  1. #41
    RC Enthusiast
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    Aug 2004
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    Originally posted by Natedog
    RE-TRIED all of the factory setting and traxxas directions AGAIN today and it still dies after only a minute or two of running!!! Will restart if you keep the glowplug going after it starts...but dies almost as soon as you remove the igniter!!! Doesn't matter even if ya rev it up and blast off right away, usually dies again the first time I let off the gas!!

    I had this exact problem as well. I switched out my glow plug for a new one and it ran perfect afterwards

  2. #42
    RC Competitor
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    Nov 2004
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    New Jersey
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    Question

    My engine seems to run fine when its warm but when i make sharp turns or brake hard my engine stalls, what does this mean???
    Its Great When Things Work! =)

  3. #43
    RC Racer
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    Aug 2001
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    NYC
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    I too had a lot of the same problems you guys had (after about 2-3 gallons, hard to measure since I also run other cars too). I use 20% Blue Thunder, and a sirio pipe. I was having problems starting and keeping running my truck. Utrns out I had a stripped clowplug head (where the plug goes was stripped). I tried to take the head off, but most of the screws are stripped!!!

    I'm going to trade in my motor to get a new 2.5, I hope things are different with this engine!!!

  4. #44
    RC Enthusiast
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    Jan 2003
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    bloomville ohio
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    2.5 equals

    ok

    i dont know who figured this up but if you go get a decent calculator it has a conversion from cubic inces to cc built in and the 2.5 is the same as a .18 it is not a .15 and no its not called a 2.5 because its a reworked .15 it is a .18 if you wont the true conversion

  5. #45
    RC Enthusiast
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    Jan 2003
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    bloomville ohio
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    2.5

    my apologies to you guys i redone my calculations i done them when the 2.5 had just came out and over the years must has not remembered them as i thought the 2.5 does come out to be a .15 with this in mide i am seriusly thinking of putting in my associated .15 into my tmaxx i think it perfomes better then my maxx 2.5 anyways


    thank you

  6. #46
    i broke my engine on top fuel 20% and i had problems then my friend let me try his sidewinder 20% and my engine runs great the only problem is have a little trouble tuning but working that out
    my rusty got ran over by an suv

  7. #47
    Banned by Warnings Phroziac's Avatar
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    hey, i noticed some mis-information here, and I happen to have some experience with the 2.5, sirio 18, and a few big blocks. The 2.5 is less powerful then just about any 18. Mostly because those engines are designed as an upgrade from the 2.5. You can generally assume that any RTR engine is not the most powerful available that will drop into the truck it came in. You'll pay a lot more for the money too.
    More powerful then a mild big block 21? Uhh...NO. I haven't seen a big block yet that has less power then a small block. These engines are also physically almost twice the size as a 2.5.

    About the leafblower, you guys forgot to think of the fuel differences...Gasoline is a less powerful fuel then nitro fuel. There's a good reason top fuel cars use 85% nitro, instead of gasoline...
    There are some people that have converted these engines to be realy huge nitro engines. I think they were running like 8 horsepower.....

  8. #48
    RC Competitor
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    Oct 2004
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    America
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    83
    my 2.5r engine used to run fine, but now it doesn't idle high enough to let off the gas, because it just stalls, so I can't use the brakes without killing the engine. I've tried everything I can think of: Idle, low speed, high speed, linkage, servo, and combinations. The engine has also been running really hot and probably has about a gallon or so of fuel through it. Does anybody know what the problem might be ?

  9. #49
    RC poster
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    Apr 2005
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    mass.
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    6

    Thumbs up fixing the stall problem

    Originally posted by rh2racing
    This is great help to us newby's out here. Anyone having problems with their smaxx, tmaxx or anything else with a 2.5 should read this article.

    Just what I was looking for!
    I had the same problem with my first engine. If your engine runs for 5 minutes then dies, overheats, or dies after you brake, then there is an airleak. The most common place for an airleak is that little brass fitting under the high speed needle. To fix it, just turn it with needle nose pliers a tiny bit, and test it. If it doesn't help, tighten little by little until it does. Be VERY careful not to overtighten it!!!!

  10. #50
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    wuts with all you pple talking bout your sirios and your novarossi's...this is the TRX engine of the TRAXXAS forum, not the trinity forum...

    but anyways ya, RCCA said the TRX 2.5 put out 1.33 HP, thats with the cast cooling head and the normal sleeve.

    now think of the 2.5R and the blue cooling head, that thing has gotta be pushing over 1.5...thats insane for a RTR engine, any 2.5 cc engine for that matter...

    i have a Revo and a T-maxx (hoping for a jato in a few months) and when the t-maxx had its stock engine, my revo would TOAST it in a drag race, but i dropped a 2.5R in it, then it started to keep up with my revo, i mean almost dead even...

    the 2.5R is way quicker than you think, before going and dropping some after market engine in your car, take some time to tune it, if you gonna shelf it anyway, tweak with the needles, if you mess something up, it doesnt matter you were gona shelf it anyway...

    yep, i love the 2.5R its a bit sketchy to tune at first, but you get the hang of it, then it runs like F1 car...sometimes i wished my revo or t-maxx had a 6-speed tranny just so i could hear it shift 5 times...lol

  11. #51
    Banned by Warnings Phroziac's Avatar
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    How does a cooling head add horsepower?

  12. #52
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. ip42800ht's Avatar
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    Dec 2004
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    I will increase power by letting the engine run cooler and because it runs cooler, you can lean it for more power. (Usually only for racing)

  13. #5