Type: Posts; User: NorSlash
Put it under. You probably need some 15mm screws instead of the 12mm stock ones. I cut along the markings and it fit perfect.
I still find the hot glue solution the best, as there is NO added mass to the shaft, so no vobble, and it's a perfect fit. I'd think anything you actually fix on the shaft would need to be properly...
I just used hot glue up front. I've posted that solution on this forum before.
Vaseline on the shaft, then a good blob of hot glue in the tunnel, then pop the lid on. Makes a perfect seal.
70 weight on a cold day... How heavy is you truck, and what springs?
Sounds overdamped to be honest, but for really rough stuff I guess it's all right.
I always fumble that bit. It's much easier if you have a friend that can jiggle the rear wheels a little while you keep everything aligned. It's one of those "I wish I was an octopus" jobs... :)
Dirt in the bearing caused it. The bearing failed, meking it spin on the plastic. This creates heat, which melts the plastic.
Check the bearings on the 'stuck' side. The diff is supposed to turn the opposite wheel, as long as the driveline is restricted. Usually there will be more resistance in the motor than the opposite...
I run 60wt in the rear, with the stock Pro-Line springs, I think they are the yellow ones. I have the pro_line spring kit for the shocks, so I'll experiment a bit.
How would you say the primary vs...
Are the gears the right way?
Did you clean all the parts thoroughly so thereŠs no dirt causing the binding?
Are you sure you align everything properly?
Just throwing stuff out here. I know it's...
The shocks are perfectly fine, and rebound nicely when compressed 'manually'.
Ok, I'll try to get some thicker fluid in there. I'm already pretty oversteered, so I'd rather go softer than stiffer...
I got my Pro-Line shocks, and set them up per Slayden's setup thread. I used stock
When in really rough terrain the rear bounce a little, and the car feels a little oversteery, especially off the...
Well, it's supposed to fit with the seal in there... I'd say something is wrong somewhere. You are sure you don't already have a blue seal in there?
The sideplates that the planetary gears and axle mount to is upside down. Make sure the dimples are facing you when you reassemble. Check the exploded views if you are unsure.
Truck comes alive with 3S though. I recommend getting one just to try it out. I'm not going back, that's for sure.
It's weird that different people have such different view on the same product.
I wtill think that it may be temperature related. I will get another Pro-Line body but not run it until it gets...
I let it airdry, then do a complete teardown every few weeks, depending on runtime.
If it's dirty I hose it down before taking it inside.
I don't think it was frozen. It was a few degrees above freezing when I took her out today. But yeah, I guess the cold makes the lexan more brittle.
I recently bought the Pro-Line Baja Bug body for my Slash 4x4. Looks awesome, and I love it.
Then I went for a run. One pack on icy roads and grass. Flipped it once, and didn't think more of it...
And did you ever have to refill a non-damaged damper? I guess not.
It will be plenty fast with 13/54 for snow. I'd say it is plenty fast for almost anything with 3S and 13/54.
But unless the shocks are leaking you shouldn't have to top them up.
Check your suspension for binding. Make sure everything is smooth and flappy with the shocks off. Also inspect the shocks for...
Yes, the nut and spring is essential for the slipper to work. If you don't have that I do not know how your truck even runs.
I also use the Pro-Line Powerstrokes. 60wt rear, 50wt front, dual-hole piston and stock springs. The ride is sweet.
There's an alu centerdiff housing? Where can I get that?
Depends on your spring setup and vehicle weight, and piston valving. So, there's no correct answer to that one. Also depends on the surface and driving style.
I use 60wt rear, 50wt front with...