Type: Posts; User: Lynnwoodwind
A Baja body works great, I used the Rally rear bumper and a RPM SC10 front bumper.
Here's my Bug:
Extreme CF chassis
Full Pro Trac
MMP with SCT motor
I made a plate from aluminum and used servo...
The STRC and Extreme handle the same, STRC is lighter, Extreme feels smoother due to weight. STRC is less to maintain, less attach points, and has less stress points.
opps, my first photo and it's TOO BIG, oh well, more practice.
Here's a plate that I used along with a proline splice plate.
I've been running the same set up all summer, IT'S GREAT, I'd suggest putting in a proline splice plate, those attach points for the motor do break. I'll post some pic's that has been bullet proof.
It may do well in raceing at the track, forget about it in bashing. It can't hold up to brushless.
Get an aluminum gear case, Integy T8098 fits the best, and you will not have to worry about heat. I can run my MMP 4600, 19/86, 2 cell, 30-37 min straight and the temp does not go above 145.
A Pro-trac set up will take care of the high grip corners.
I finished up mine and I like it as well if not better than my Extreme set up. I was able to attach the MMP to the upper plate and the balance is perfect. With the Proline suspension, you need to...
I've used both the Slice and the Extreme lcg, the Slice didn't take much time at the track to break the fwd bulkhead, the motor attach point blew out right away. I used some aluminum plates to beef...
I've run the MMP 5700 and 4600 in the same set-up. The 5700 doesn't have the torque getting into and out of corners and setting up for jumps. The 5700 get's hotter 160/170 in about half the time it...
The Rusty RPM arms have no toe-in, the slash proline protrac have the toe-in.
Another cheap way is to use the rear arms from the Proline Protrac, $10.00.
I tried a fubuta p190 "rate" gyro on the wif'e's rusty, it was about 39.00 at the lhs, mounted with double back tape in line with the servo. It sure made it easier for her to keep it on the track. I...
I'm using the Integy "T 7987" drive shafts with the Protrac/Rustler rear a-arms, mainly bashing at the track. I haven't had any issues. I blow out the cv's and use a syringe of 3-in-1 oil to put a...
I've used a #4 split brass washer and spot faced the input shaft collars on the diff. It will pretty much completely lock the rear end and still allow the plate to get screwed on fully.
I'm getting parts around to put a Slice together, tried the itnegy and stock rear end, the fwd attach holes are off, more than I want to slot..Does the Golden Horizon rear end have better fit?
+1 for the Proline, and go with 1/8 calibers in front and 1/8 bowties in the rear. They add height and stability.
I've used it on my stock chassis, and used one in the repair of an Extreme chassis. I wish I had used it in the Extreme sooner.
Nice paint Dr., I would like to post some of my shots, and can't figure it out, any ideas. The post rules says no attachements, is that my hang up?
I've had the 4600 and 5700 and agree with the gearing's. Now I'm running a Orion Pro Experience 2 3750, gearing from 18-23/86 2s, temps haven't gone over 105 yet, that's running straight for 40 min.
I've done the mmp 4600 and mmp 5700, go with the ORION Pro Experience 2 3750. NO heat issues, 86/20, 2s 5000 40c Check Points back to back all day, never been over 96 deg yet.