Type: Posts; User: Newrustydude
niice, cool stuff!
idle screw, i have the same problem, it can also mean a new piston and sleeve time...
i read this thread and hmmm...IDK
Edit - I read this post and hmmm...you just got 5 warning points for spamming. - razer
just a random thought
yeah its ok, of couse, just try to avoid going down in percentage, also this has been said b4, i would like you to try
next time, please
^he is correct
ya kno you could have just...
duratrax makes green <harder> and white <softer>
i say run whites on the front and the stocks are best on the rear
take it apart....
its just hard to get it to run right?
just use the 72 tooth clutch
you really nee the stampede mounts because if u look at the back mount, the place where the shocks attach to the tower are hight than the pin place, u really need that stampede rear mount, i may not...
id get the first one,
but if u want the second one ur gonna have to get the stanpede rear bodyposts with the orginal rear shock tower.
im running 35 front 40 rear, but one hole shock pistons, great combo with med front springs(stock rear) and hard duratrax springs for the rear, and i run on/off road
my offer still stands, it has a 2.5, and theres pics in the n. rusty fourm
go here if you are from CT, or even if you aren't, if you guyz find more things like this post it in this thread, i saw a mishigan(sp) one, it mad less sense to be, but im not from there, so...
trades for n rusty?
bumping to the beginning
it is ugly as heck,
but good, lol
i u want i can throw in a broken servo
please and thankyou
he really only has like $50 to spend, right?
well id get the shock towers
no servos, no esc, no motor
pinions, and a spur
tranny is fine
chassis is cut for weigh saveing
ill go down to 130, one controler, no reciever