Type: Posts; User: thatoneguy
yes. 4x2 shafts are the same as the stock rustlers.
dad has it right. there is less torque produced at the motor with lower gearing.
but it should last longer than 30 seconds
The taping on my anacondas lasted about 2 passes. And that is with 2 wraps of gorilla tape.
I an an automotive technician and graduated with an associates degree. My tools come from various manufacturers; snap on, mac, matco, sunex, wright, armstrong, SK, craftsman. Matco and Snap on offer...
The rocket might fly but the rustler wont. They are not attached.
I just bought a 100 pack from amain. I tried different ways to keep from loosing them, but at $8/per 100 clips, it's just cheaper to buy them than to try and find a way to secure them.
What radio are you using?
I just took a look at my FLM bellcranks. They look like the stockers in shape and size. They are a one piece design so they don't have the bulge like those pictured do.
I have ran stock, jato, and slash. The slash shafts are by far the strongest.
They don't look any stronger, but believe me, they are. I was twisting stocks and jatos like pretzels.
For less than half the price, I would just go with the slash 4x4 shafts. I have 30+ runs on mine on 3s with no signs of flexing.
Before the traxxas plugs came out I used powerpoles. But then When I got my VXL I just started using the traxxas plugs. I would have no problem using either the traxxas or deans. Performance is gonna...
I'm just using the standard 2000mah eneloops
What captain said. Red is more permanent and usually requires heat to loosen and blue is removable.
I don't care about the same question. It's when it comes from the same person the day later. I see mods have no problem locking threads that just mention other brands, but will let 15 of the same...
no suitable replacement for loctite on metal to metal.
Source: I am an automotive technician.
I doubt it. Will probably just smoke. There is a pin under the plastic, the plastic was cast over it, hence the reason it has to be broke off.
Unhook the drive shaft. And then pry off, break off, or whatever to get the plastic drive portion of the stub axle off.
Rear. PART NUMBER 6852. Read post number 3 of that thread!
The side that the u-joint attaches to.
Just scroll down a little and look at your thread.
The plastic part is cast around a pin on the stub axle. Break off the plastic, remove pin, and it should slide out.
If it is rear, that make it easier. Pull the carrier and axle off the truck. Remove driveshaft from the stub axle. Use pliers or something to break the plastic off of the stub axle. Pull through the...