Type: Posts; User: superfly13_69
You'll get faster acceleration with them. I put them on and immediately noticed a difference. Alot prettier too.
You could solder it, but personally I'd get a new one. There's two routes:
Buy a replacement receiver... $22 at Tower:
No way those will fit. They're for the Mini-T. I think that's 1/18 scale. You could shoot hoops in your Dirt Hawgs with those. Look at the dimensions. They're only just over 1" tall & wide.
Sounds like a glow wire issue. Check both ends.
Check your EZ-start pack too. Look in there and make sure the little metal tube isn't pushed back.
People normally break 2nd gear, not 1st. Either way, cracking into the tranny is annoying and tedious. Just make sure you don't forget there's two screws under the tranny holding the rear...
Setting them up correctly has a lot more to do with it, IMHO.
Mystic, check your chassis. I have this same problem, but it's because of a bent chassis, right in front of the engine.
I'd say about 1/2 to 2/3 of this forum thinks it's a good thing. That's proof enough for me, besides the fact that I've done it 3 times on one set of rims and they're still going strong bashing...
You won't find an easier way than that....
Either grass or dirt, Speed paws won't turn very well. Get some good Edge's. They hook up well on grass, and outstanding on dirt.
The only reception problems I ever had was when my transmitter batteries were low. The red light flashes when that happens.
I know mine makes some sort of "clankle" sound at idle, and I know my clutchbell bearings are starting to wear. The vibration of idle makes every little thing very noticeable.
You know, a simple countersink is to get a drill bit just the right size and drill it to the depth you want.
The front would be useless if you get the RPM wide bumper, because that's built into the plastic. I like the rear, though. My chassis looks pretty scraggly back there from bashing and scraping.
What does the plug look like when it blows? Dark? (too rich) Bluish gold tinge? (overheating)
Make sure you're using a quality plug. I personally like the OS A5. It's made for high temp truck...
I'd watch out going aluminum with hexes. I'd rather strip out a $.99 hex than a $5-10 rim (+ $12 tire) any day of the week.
Yeah, the oven literally bakes the glue, so it's crispy. SOOOO much easier to pull off than boiling. I personally use alot of glue so I leave mine in at 275deg for about 20 minutes. Doesn't hurt...
Normally, the only difference between a stadium truck and a buggy is the front tire size, front suspension geometry, and maybe a little wheelbase. And of course the body.
I'd go with the WD-40 also. Oil will just make dirt stick.
Yep, that's it. Actually it's the OWB and the plastic gear. They come apart. Here's a replacement from Tower. (yes it's the same part for the 2.5 and 3.3)
No, didn't use the OWB. I just used a bell nut that would fit in the place of the OWB, drilled a hole thru that, and pressed in a suitable shaft. I did drill a hole thru the back of the EZ-start...
I run a S3004 in throttle, and HS5625MG in the steering. The HS isn't metal case, but it's metal gear. No probs in a year and still going strong.
Congrats on getting back from Iraq, BTW.
You only have to remove the exhaust to get to the ez-start. Two screws for the exhaust, and 3 for the ez-start.
Get a MG servo and save yourself some headaches. Hitec 5625MG works well for me.
No aluminum that I know of. Some guys get a sheet of CF and make their own.