Type: Posts; User: Thrash
what are the dimensions of the copper pipe you used?
you can make a cheap starter box with one of those prop starters and some wood.....a little hillbilly but will do the job
totally agree....... I merely used "speed" as a descriptor since it is something that can be seen (rotational speed)....... but yes....transfer of power is better termanology.....
and yup I've...
sorry to butt in on this diff discussion but I would have to kind of agree with kgombe......(although you can never have a different physical gear ratio front/rear of a vehicle - this would destroy...
check the clutch bearings......the clutch bell should spin freely (check when engine is not in the truck)
I'd say leave the HSN alone and lean out the LSN 1/4 turn.......got me through my break in with no issues......(in colder Ontario, Canada weather)
oh and a screw kit wouldn't hurt either (when you either strip or lose a screw)
upgrade front a-arms to RPM........
parts to stock:
one way bearings
shock, turnbuckle and pushrod ends
engine mount (if you tend to land on your lid)
people do the upgrade for a variety of reasons
- more torque and speed from a high end servo
- don't have 2 servos fighting each other if setup improperly
- weight savings
- etc etc
I just use a battery terminal puller (same thing I use to remove flywheels)....works like a charm...
if I where you I'd just pickup a used DX3.0 (or 2.0 and ditch your reverse) for less than $120 and never need to worry about crystals or failsafes again
reseal what with silicone? the cup to the ring gear?
you likely have an x-ring tore on the output shaft. No amount of silicone will fix that, so you'll have to tear it down and replace the...
diff should be full (to the cross pin). Go buy a diff rebuild kit as you likely have a tore x-ring
uhhh......caution using a good servo with the stock radio as you won't be able to set the proper endpoints and could overstress the servo
charge your batteries! sounds like the optidrive failsafe is kicking in
I'm running this motor.....and this is by far my fav motor in my revo on the track...and I'm only running a 16/38 gearing with it
I too had some front bearing issues but just swapped them out with...
I use a JP2 with my sirio .27
+1 on the panther pythons! I've been using mine for 3-4 races now and they are still in great shape...and grip like crazy
THS hard coated! no more broken couplers or headers!
yeah the box IS a pain to lug around......but after 3 OWB failures in a row and chewed up starter shaft......what the heck!
stater box all the way man! I'll never pullstart anything again! (unless it's of the 1/5th scale variety)
you can't (well shouldn't be) run the 250cc tank when racing...... I run a mugen 150cc tank (160 without the insert).
same happened to me with my S27! starter shaft is all chewed up....gone through 3 OWBs with this Sirio now! now I've just put a pullstart with no OWB in it (don't know if that's all that good for...
never too much power....just feather that throttle finger (and make sure you have a center diff).
I'm using a Sirio .27 and can smoke my other 3.3 equiped revo on the track
don't forget to shim those prolines with the included shims (I think I have 3 on each corner)