Type: Posts; User: cbrsilv15
How much for it?
I'm looking to see if anyone has a cheap Traxxas TQI 2.4 rx/tx system that they have laying around. I'm trying to piece a truck together for my son for Christmas on a budget. Let me know if you...
There has to be something else wrong if the diffs keep failing. I upgraded mine to the xo1 and haven't had a hiccup since. Maybe something is out of alignment or something.
I'd stick with stock. Going stronger there would probably strip out the gears in the servo next time. More money to replace.
It's crazy when you add up how much is invested in the car. Lol!!
My MIP's are both keyed and has the provision for the pinned shafts. Not sure if they work on just the older MIP shafts that were pinned, or if they work on stock axles too.
I bash with a soft case no problem. I'd go 5600 60c. That'll be punchy.
Don't know about 4s, but I run my 3s with a 22t pinion and stock 54t spur. Motor gets up to 130-140 and esc is about the same. I'd try a 19 or 20 and see how that handles the 4s.
I fill mine to the top and then spin the gears to move the fluid to the bottom. 50 and 30 will be perfect for your driving. The i bar kit just drops in the diff cup no problems. I did my front and...
We usually break something when we go, but nothing broke! It was weird. Lol.
aluminum hubs? If so, that's normal. It'll wear to a point and then stop binding.
My neighbor has one he ran with the 3s. It must have been defective because it went into thermal a few times. The esc was hotter than the motor. He had to add the fan and it was a little better,...
My first "real" youtube video. We had two slash 4x4's and an e-revo for a min. My battery was dead for my p4de, so I just filmed. Had a few huge jumps.
The TRX alum hexes would just strip out the wheel. 17mm is the best way to go.
You can use it. It just isn't the "beefed" up one. 3978 has metal supports for the pin that sets in the cup. It will just reduce any flex. I think it would probably be fine with the 5381.
I cut some PVC rings for drift tires. It's like te front wheels didn't spin under power. Will be tearing apart front diff to add oil tomorrow. It's probably bone dry. Never messed with it before. Not...
Billy has it right. I just did my rear about a week and a half ago. Working great!!
+1. Matt will make it right with you. Their customer support is top notch.
Tekno big bone center shaft to handle all the power.
the 2200 motor will need more amps so make sure you have a good discharge battery. I waterproofed my MMp and it has been fine so far. No heat issues either. I run the mmp/2400 combo.
Velineon is good, but you just won't have that torque you are looking for - safely. Lol. It'll overheat and fry. 1415 which is the 2400kv castle motor. It is a torque monster like stated above. No...
Because you thread half into the post and the other half into the mount.
Just take them off and cut them with a hacksaw to lower them. Then thread screw into the mount, and cut off the head of the screw and screw the post back into the mount. Free.
Zero modding. It dropped in just like the oem stampede ones did. Both parts are listed above by Viking. It's about $20 per diff to do that. It's nice and tight. Can't wait to get home to try it out!
Just got the correct parts and together today. I used 90% 30k oil and a tad of the 100k to thicken it up a tad. Loctite is drying overnight and then I can try out the new rear end tomorrow.