Type: Posts; User: KingdomRacer
It is an old GorillaMaxx strap from a G3R and it is mounted with their hardware.
I bought some before they went out of business for future projects and G3R spares of course.
Yep it does
When a car gets lighter you have to simply adjust your suspension all over again.
Also, a tire compound change may be in order as well but a lighter car losing traction is simply not true.
If you are looking to race then the Team RCE kit is the only kit to get since it is way lighter.
I have held the SSC kit in my hands and it is a lot heavier than the Team RCE kit, period.
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The first part of the build is done, next step will be the electronics.
The build was pretty easy and went smoothly with all the parts fitting like they should.
I chose to use a strap instead of...
Just arrived and the quality is/was worth the wait over the other kits out there.
Como ta mi hermano!
I run these packs in question by the OP and would definitely recommend them.
I can run 3 x 5 minute heats on 1 charge @ 95% and still have 3.75-3.8v per cell in a 4s...
That is an aluminum pushrod for #2 Rockers
I figured as much but who makes them and how much?
Yea, I put caps on everything, no matter what.
I kind of felt the same way (duh) but like I hinted already my ERBE is/was my 1st RC and if it...
Well, I haven't been here in a long time as I don't race my ERBE much since MT has died around here but recently I have found a track that MT racing is alive.
So, in my efforts to finish a race with...
Maybe that LCG chassis that looks real promising will get mass produced and you will have a chance again.
I would definitely get the motor mount and CD, especially for off-road racing.
The CD is one of those things that are a must for racing and someone who doesn't recommend one is showing how much they...
RDLogics make some really good diffs for the REVO that will work for the SLASH 4x4 too.
They are plenty strong and should hold up better than the FLM diff cup because of the steel insert where the...
Be sure to rebuild your rear diff bearings that are on the output drives as well, this is most likely where the binding was.
+1 except for me it's cheaper than my motorcycles. I have more money wrenching on my RC race cars than when I'm wrenching on my bikes. I guess it's one of those guy things for sure.
My Tekno rear hubs are holding up to some huge jumps with no probs!
As far as the bearing size I am using the bearings that came with the Tekno kit.
I simply opened up the outside hole by 1mm.
I'd like to see these links of the top manufactures saying to do it this way over the safer soldering method.
Actually if I were you, I would've posted the links with your post to properly educate...
May I suggest not ever promoting dangerous ways of not using the right tools for the job.
I have done many things that got the job done but as far as going on a public forum and then recommending it...
No, but interestingly enough the Viper VTrax-10 is waterproof.
I do not know enough about the ESC and my post is not a recommendation just an observation.
I found that thicker shock oil is what absorbs the bumps better. Also try 3 hole piston for the rears. I ran those same springs in the beginning before switching to 8 2.0 with good results and these...
You might be right with simply removing that cover, I haven't had to go that far with the simple cheap mods I mentioned but sure worth a try.
Have you done the front driveshaft mod and the larger bearing mod (motor mount)? Sealing up that front hole will help as much as possible (still not a perfect solution) and the larger bearing will...
It be nice to see how you mounted that body