Type: Posts; User: 72'dolphins
Nitro Clean, but it's pricy.
JB WELD. If there's a little of the cap left, JB a old hex key into it, let it dry, thn turn it out.
UE Super6 FOC.
OTB 2 speed gears and input.
There both small blocks, so I don't see why not.
Slayden gives a very good set-up for a race MAXX. Most involves removing, moor changing parts. The major part is adjusting setings, but for $100 or so your MAXX will be much more competive.
Find something comprable, then compare the price to it.
Don't think it's a drop-in, but here:
Yes it will.
I think the REVO shocks with LT springs fit this job. Very stiff springs, and the shocks are relitively small.
Still running the 2.5. It's hard to convince my dad that a P5 is a good investment:p
I would think that your best bet would be to dye the wing, the mabey try the Krylon Fusion paint for the lines. I used it to back the paint on my body(I know....), and it worked pretty good.
And they grip on any track surface.:)
I'm glad your aiming to get a "C".:rolleyes:
Read the post as:
Anybody who has this mod yet?
My Tmaxx and REVO Assembly
it seems that all your posts are "just your opinion"
I will give him that they are the most random stories ever.
i'm sure a 10L on 16 cells isn't a slouch either.:cool:
tony's screws are 12.9 hex heads
Not as much as I would like VBS. Dace bulks serve their purpose for now.
Pair? Your idea sounds good, but I'd go with a single high end buggy:cool:
When they brag about how much it weighs(sp), and it's not a low number, it SHOULD NOT flex.
on the bar that comes up when you click on header, there should be a # sign. Click on that.
Great quality and 6061 don't often go together.
I know Slow uses, or used, a MGT spur on him MAXX. You could try to PM him.
$26, and no chance of the top falling off.
UE, serving all of your MAXX needs.