Type: Posts; User: Mike W
Factory settings are a starting point - they're not right for all conditions.
I had to richen my TRX quite a bit from stock to run in the UK.
Or even better, get a flywheel spanner (probably flywheel wrench in the US)
It locates against the clutch pins to hold it in place while you tighten the nut.
If I were you I'd switch the servo from one Revo to the other, so at least you still have one that works.
Then see about getting the replacements sorted on the other one :)
The issue with the CP2 rollbar is not the amount of masking it takes, but the fact that it's really fiddly to get the mask in there in the right shape.
The Revo and T-Maxx versions come with different exhaust headers don't they? Does the Jato TM install just use the stock header?
It depends whether he's removed the blue wire completely, or just shortened it so it can't foul the spur gear. If he's still using it, then it needs the ground wire too.
I don't have an airbrush, so had to mask mine, and used good old fashioned masking tape.
Was planning on backing the shell with silver anyway, so masked the rollbar (which is an absolute nightmare...
I wouldn't recommend it. Nitro fuel absorbs moisture. If you put it in a fridge, water will condense out of the air in the top of the fuel can/bottle and get into the fuel.
When I got my Revo the...
It's all down to how you set them up. Adjustment is done by the plastic nut on the end of the threaded brake linkage arm. The more you screw the nut in towards the spring, the tighter the brakes will...
If you can't see the pics there, I've chucked them on some fotopic space too - here:
I've had a Cuda body:
...and I now have a CP2.
The Cuda definitely looks more...
I've had the same issue with my OS .18TM
I think maybe the position of the clutch bell relative to the engine mount is slightly shorter on the TRX than on standard engines, so the clutchbell is a...
That's probably your answer then. Nitro fuel is hygroscopic (think that's the correct term) - it attracts moisture.
So if you leave an engine with fuel / fuel residue in it, it will attract...
I'm assuming you put after-run through the engine after you'd used it the last time before taking it out before?
Did you also swill some fuel through to loosen it up before starting this time? If...
Get the racer's edge aluminium ones - they'll last a lot longer than stock ones do on the back.
Just what I wanted to hear :cool:
I'm really tempted by Wabash rims as although the stock 40 series rims make the truck more stable, the wide track seems to reduce turn-in by a fair amount too.
As I understand it the Wabash ones...
I tried the LT springs on P1 rockers and while it makes it a lot more responsive than stock due to the stiffer suspension, it still sits very high, so it seemed to make it more susceptible to...
I overtightened the slipper for a couple of days after fitting my OS .18TM - Net result was about 5 teeth missing from the ring gear on my rear diff.
Still, replacements are cheap on ebay :)
That's the setup I'm running.
I run on a relatively small grass track in the UK, and it seems to work well there. The handling is vastly improved from stock.
Try an O-ring from a Savage SS fuel tank - they're thicker than the stock Revo O-ring but about the same diameter.
I've been using one since last summer with no problems - you just have to make...
The Maxx size wheels I had were HPI Q6's.
Didn't think there was a clearance problem until I took the fronts off and noticed the chrome was missing from the inside edge of the wheel.
Don't forget that most of those pictures will have been taken just after a new shell was painted and put on :)
What's the "&" for then?
Or does he mean piston and sleeve?
Just what I was going to say.
When I got my revo it must have been missing the grub screw that holds the exhaust to the pipe hanger. When it was new it was still a tight fit, so I didn't notice....