Type: Posts; User: Jasper Wouters
traxxas says you could go to 24T but keep track of the temps and on a smooth surfaces. I think a 26T will work but keep a close eye on temps, I'm going to get a 26T (and maybe a 50T or 52T spur)...
You can plug it any open port in the reciever. I've never gone over 5 amps not even with a full set of LEDs and a power hungry savox servo, castle recommends changing the plugs but i think it works...
Thanks I didn't noticed that I need to disable the red wire.
And how about the foams in the badlands does it need to be so big, it just/just not fit in the tyre?
No I didn't, do I have do that?
Mine esc does arm, I can drive my erbe, and a minut later it stops and the switch still doesn't do a thing.
1 Today my badlands and desperado's (no premounts) arrived and I want to tape them, I've already got strong tape but how many layers of tape to I need, just one or multiple layers and how...
i'm looking for the lst2 diffs and shafts and i found the standard ring and pinion gear but i also find the steel-TiNi (LOSB3535), whats the difference except the material, is it better?
I opened up the diffs today and al the gears in- and outside were good but there was no diff oil in both of them the rear or the front, could that cause the cracking sound?
Is it normal that you can...
If you mean litterly touch the esc i don't have that problem whit the HPP motor brace.
Mostly 4S sometimes 6s I run my trenchers only on sand maybe a few strips of concreet between jumps but...
I will check the front diff in- and outside and than i'll see what is necessary to replace and probably shim the diffs.
I let you know something when it is fixed.
I know that but i think the inside is broken (didn't disassembled the diff yet) so shimming on the outside isn't gonna work, or am I wrong?
Nice link but the ring gear or pinion isn't broken so is shimming still gonna help?
To shim to ERBE diffs there are some shims in the diff aswell.
What brand are the chassis braces on your merv?
Little question about the knuckles: Is it worth to buy alu knuckles or is it as good as buying the alu pivot ball caps (if you know)?
That goes away, I had that with 2.8 road rages from proline.
So I buy a new diff and shim it but how, where do i place the shims?
Is the risk of stripping the diff reduced a lot, to almost no risk? (didn't even know the front diff could be under so much...
I've just driven a bit (stupid idea) and i think the front diff is broken now because it craks real hard (mostly onder braking and going backwards).
I thinks the motor is fine (i firts thought that...
it is brushless and I checked the diffs and they are good maybe on the inside but I don't have diff oil to replace so I can't open it. the spur is good only the edge towards the reciever is of.
I mostly run trencher X, is 21/54 a safe geraing or 20/54 or should I stay at 18/54?
My motor gives a cracking sound when i go from forward to backward or backward to forward and when I let go the throtle the motor gives a clicking sound. Can I still drive it because next week I go...
I think it is for the center skid plate (they hold the gearbox aswell)
Thanks for the nice diagram.
Does someone know it is the samed to shim the mervs diffs' except for other diameters?
I've a chevy long bead body but the bead is just over my motor wires, is it a bad thing that the motor wires are pushed down?
And the shimming is it just placing 1 or 2 shims one one side of the diff and what shims metal or teflon?
Is the axle problem gonna be fixed if I buy the constant velocity axles?
what shims do I need for that?