Type: Posts; User: tiralatete
as said, cold welding is not flexible, a slow epoxy remain with a little elasticity.
I already broke a cold welding 2nd speed locking (after 3 years of intensive use), but never with slow epoxy (on...
One more word:
on my last conversions (for my son and some friends), I used epoxy instead of syntofer/"cold welding". With 3 weeks of curing, it becomes extra strong with just enough elasticity,...
here is one topic I made concerning the tranny conversion: http://brushlessmania.forumpro.fr/t4753-blinder-la-transmission-du-e-jato
it is in french but pics are clear enough to...
I think a "rustler caster block mod" from RPM + lunsford titanium axle kit will be cheaper and much more stronger than a HR or Integy aluminium adapter ;)
I think you're not wrong concerning your capacity to use bigger ratio.
this means you should run, at minimum with 58/19 or 58/20.
knowing my jato with 3500kv + 3S + 58/16 + 2nd...
I think that, by using a motor bigger than 36mm you will have difficulties to match the spur gear and the pinion, because the motor shaft will be far from the spur gear as the motor will be...
according to your targets, go for a complete steel transmission!
For info, which motor will you use with 4S? Beware, motor with more than 36mm diameter are not easy to install correctly on...
Your problem isn't coming from the bodies.
I'm sure you have to check with attention shock towers, body posts, chassis, front bulkhead, trans case,...everything that could be twisted.
Last time I...
Check if your chassis is twisted/crooked or not.
check the same with your shock towers and body mounts.
painted with aerograph, but it could be the same with sprays. Red, white and black + some liquid mask. It has been done in details.
The wing is all white, but I don't wan't to use it.
Here is my last jconcept body for jato:
to have the reverse and the strong electric motor brake, you have to solutions:
1- the simpliest is to use the single speed kit sold by traxxas
2- the strongest solution is to lock the second...
Very good job!
Maybe you should install the battery more on the rear, close to the tenschock.
On the other hand, without a top plate on the front, you will face some problems...try to do one with...
these are proline 2.2 dirt paw
I see you're spending quite a lot of money to build a very nice and efficient jato, you will have a very nice car :thumbup:
Let me predict that your HR rear shock tower will result...
I fully agree with desert JATO.
One additional point (my english isn't as good enough to understand everything written before...so I'm not sure it has been said) is that the rigidity of...
in my opinion the Tbone racing bumper+wheely bar is a must: first of all it has a lifetime guarantee (tested and approved :thumbup: ), this is not the case of all Hot Racing crap products...
you can use the TBR rear bumper and wheely bar:
nice product the gopro, awaiting your vids.
Concerning the end pipe on your muffler, I'm not sure it is a good idea to turn it on the top...you should turn it to the ground in order...
No problem to make one 3mm hole in each a-arm. Never had any problem with mine.
As It was hard to install the sway bar with rpm bumper, I took a Tbone racing bumper in order to keep the stock bumper in place.
After you have to drill the rpm arms.
To fix on the rear, I...
with just a little research, you will find a lot of info for jato conversion on this forum...(search is on the top right of your screen!)
From older to earlier videos of my E-jato BL:
The E-jato BL f my son:
I disagree with you. With RPM parts, as it can be bent without breaking, the hit is not impacting parts around the RPM part.
I already tested big hit on the front, knowing I have RPM arms + RPM...