I have the rest of the parts in the mail :cool:
I have the rest of the parts in the mail :cool:
Nothing like building your truck up :thumbup:. I run those Maximizer beadlock on my truck, they are awesome...if you have issues of them pulling out the beadlock you may want to consider CA glueing the tyre to the face plate.
This is how I did it ; [post=5304293]post#123[/post]
Good luck with the build mate :thumbup:.
Thanks for the info! I only plan on running 4s in hopes of saving the drive terrain. I wont glue them just yet but I will if I have too. I will be keeping everything else plastic on the truck; the chassis, shock towers and bulkheads. This suspension is hard to find and I dont want to risk breaking/bending an arm.
I remember staring at UE's website when I was younger, drooling over all the coolest stuff! Now I have the opportunity to build one and I never want to let this one go. I dont want to break it but its not going to be a shelf queen by any stretch of the imagination.
Right on! Are those genuine setback arms or integy ones? I really want to get some maximizers and mashers!
I bought them used so I dont really know. I am pretty sure they are genuine UE though. The guy I bought them from had all the best parts, mainly UE.... and they have the same look to them as the other arms. Now that I think about it, I recall him listing them as genuine. These arms came off of the Mad Cow build. I wouldnt touch Integy with a 10 foot pole. I have heard that their products and material have changed for the better but I still wont buy it.
I will let you know how the rims hold up when I get it running!
The reason why I ask is that Integy copied UE's design and sell their own racer x suspension mimicking ue's. I've read that people sell them as genuine ue's on ebay and most people don't know the difference. I'm not trying to say you would buy integy knowingly. You can read more about it here if you wish: [url]http://www.rc-monster.com/forum/showthread.php?t=17207[/url]
I just realized those are powerstrokes sitting there, Nice!
Thanks for the info. These are genuine! I double checked after I read the thread.
Sorry for the poor picture quality. I was in a bit of a rush when I took it and decided I was ok with the darkness since it would go along with the thread title. I will make sure to get better pics as the build progresses. They are power strokes! I found them at the market and I hope the white/grey spring combo wont be too stiff... especially since I am trying to keep the truck as light as possible. Will find out soon enough though.
I look forward to progress on this! btw welcome to the site
Thank you! I was kind of surprised to find the E-Maxx forum is still pretty busy here, more so than some other sites general MT forums :O.o:
My 3908 roller should be here tomorrow.... tap, tap, tap........ whistles dixie... looks at watch :mad:
I got the roller in the mail today and started tearing it apart. The bearings in the knuckles on my Racer-X will not work with these new drive shafts.... I dont know what I have to do now. Any ideas? I want to keep the 17mm setup
I am thinking that I may have to run some 2.5 style CVDs with 17mm adapters.... Eh?
[QUOTE=Brokenparts;5306612]Thank you! I was kind of surprised to find the E-Maxx forum is still pretty busy here, more so than some other sites general MT forums :O.o:[/QUOTE]
Interesting you say that, I have always thought this forum fairly sluggish compared to others within the Traxxas community.
[QUOTE=Brokenparts;5307532]The bearings in the knuckles on my Racer-X will not work with these new drive shafts.... I dont know what I have to do now. Any ideas? I want to keep the 17mm setup[/QUOTE]
My LHS keep a good variety of bearings on hand, Boca brand I think. Maybe yours, or try online, like ACER or Avid, might have the size you need. Measure the outside of the shaft and the inside of the knuckle and see if you can purchase that size.
I like your handle BTW, Brokenparts… sounds like something we all can relate to.
there is not enough room for a bearing to fit. The knuckle would have to be machined. I know 2.5 driveshafts will fit because I had found a few old ones lyin around and I decided to switch the part of the shaft that goes through the knuckle. It fits but now I have run into another problem :((
The new telescoping shafts are too large and my power strokes wont fit without rubbing. The resevoir shock fits but the spring on the other shock rubs. I think I will have to buy a pair of 2.5 cvds after all!
Do they make different servoe horns for the steering system?
I had one airtronics 94773 so I decied to buy another... doesnt look like itll work.
The 1717 doesnt fit, nice xD
I have read a few posts about the traxxas CVDs being too short in some cases. Now I am worried that they may be too short for the rear offset arms. Anybody have any suggestions? Does anyone make an extended drive cup?
5153R looks like what I will need.
I am almost glad that I didnt buy an extended chassis, it would be retarted long with the setbacks!!! I wanted to keep stock ground clearance and weight too.
I think it might look better with bigger/wheels tires too but, I have a different body coming for it, which may look better whith this wheel/tire combo. Youll have to wait and see :wacko:
The tires also started turning on the beads while I was tightening them down. I probably should have cleaned the tires before I put them together. Looks like I may be gluing them after all.
Yep, extended drive cups are the ticket to ensure that your CVDs don't come out.
Nice looking truck you are building. Who makes those A-arms?
They are Unlimited Engineering Racer-X arms, I bought them used from a guy who anodized them black for a color matching build. These suckers were tough to find!
[QUOTE=Brokenparts;5309055]They are Unlimited Engineering Racer-X arms, I bought them used from a guy who anodized them black for a color matching build. These suckers were tough to find![/QUOTE]
They look really good. And being UE they should hold up well.
Thank you :lol:
I am still debating on buying some GA bulks and a chassis for it. I would want an old Torpedo chassis as my first pick but I would probably settle for an FLM or something that is stock length. We'll see. I dont plan on beatin the crap out of it so it may hold up. Im past those days, I think. I just want something that I can bash whenever I get the itch. The UE arms werent necessary but, I really really wanted them. They are what sparked this entire build. Ridiculous, right?
I ordered another servo saver setup so I can run dual savers and a BEC since I will be running dual Airtronics 94773s. HELLO 400oz of torque!!! and .12 transit :thumbup:
Thanks to the guys here on the forum for creating such a brilliant solution!!! :thumbup:
One step closer
I did a horrible job with the rattle cans :mad:
Oh well, it looks good 5ft away
Your not gonna see the rattle can job as it comes rippin by anyway!:)
Love this build... looks sick man!
I hope this thing moves out, the pinion is almost half the size of the spur gear! I am only gonna run 4s though, 6s is overkill <_<
What a arms are those??? FLM? Thanks
Unlimited Engineering Racer-X suspension
looking good mate...:thumbup:
Thanks guys! Cant wait to finish it myself!
Got my MIP drive shafts installed and most of my other parts are waiting for me at my LHS. Hope to have it running by next week sometime but you never know what might pop up!
I wonder if the smart diff on that page will fit into the FLM hybrid bulks or UEs ultralite diff cases?
Never mind... did a little research on the diff and it doesnt seem like many people like them.
It's slowly coming together :).
No budget left for the camera :lol:
Nice build you have. What tires are those? I thought maybe PL Mashers but I'm not sure.
They are IMEX claw dawgs