Mods, Mods, Mods!
I kind of went crazy. I first put in the seperate cooling line mod, and that worked well. Motor and ESU were 100 degrees, but ESU caps were 180 degrees. So, I put my thinking cap on, and put in that CC Cap Pack. What I did was make a mounting plate that fits behind the ESU, and on top of the Rx box. The mounting plate stops at the Rx indicator lite. I also used the mounting plate to mount the ESU battery wires. Traxxas wanted the CC Cap Pack wires to be with in 3" of the ESU...I'm at 1 1/2". They said with this CC Cap Pack you could have a total wire length (from ESU to Battery) of 8". I shortened all my battery leads, and I'm now at 5".
Then when I thought I couldn't get crazier, I made (out of brass) 2 port water cooled cap heat sinks for both the CC Cap pack and the ESU caps. With my 2 port rudder, I bring one water line to left port of the CC Cap Pack heat sink, then the water line goes to the left side of the ESU cap heat sink, then to the ESU, and then out the boat. The other line follows the same cap path, but then goes to the moter, and out the boat. All caps have heat sink compound applied between them and their respective heat sinks. I just now finished testing power up, and all works well. All I have left is to test water flow, and I will do that tomorrow. I don't anticipate any problems, because adding the heat sinks only added 3" of watter line. I will use my little water flow tester (that I made a while back) that fits on to my boat's rudder to perform the test.
I also made carbon fiber heat shields for underneath the electronics, and for the styrofoam in front of the equipment area to protect the hull incase of a future melt down. Anyway, wish me luck with my water flow test.
Do u have any pics of your set up ?
Would really like to see it
I did grab my wife's camera, and I did take some pictures. Before I can put them in a post, though; I have to wait till my wife gets home from Boston. She knows how to get them from her camera onto our computer. From there I'll do the PhotoBucket thing, and then wallah...pictures.
pics!! pics!! I have a cappack I planned to use, but couldnt decide where I wanted to put it. Cant wait to see your setup....
Just be sure to keep in mind that if the water that goes from the capacitor to the motor is hot, then you should consider re-routing that cooling line. The hot water will make it have even more heat.
I thought long and hard, on how I wanted to rout my 2 cooling lines.I also considerd, running 3. One for the ESU, one for the motor, and one for the CC Cap Pack/ESU caps. In the end; I went with 2 lines as discribed above.
[B]I just got back from running my boat.[/B] Everything went perfect, and I couldn't of asked for anything more. All the temps fell where I hoped they would, and didn't go beyond the following:
Note: I tried to get my boat out of the water, and temps measured as soon as possible. I did this, in an effert to get a better idea of what the actual temps of the boat's working components were during operation.
Batteries: 116-124 degrees
Engine: 106-110 degrees
ESU case: 102-106 degrees
ESU caps:106-114 degrees
CC Cap pack caps 108-112
My wife should be home from Boston soon, and I'll see what I can do about getting some pictures for you guys in the next few days. I'm really happy with how things turned out today. I don't know if you guys will want to do the things I did; but if you do, I'll help you as much as I can.
Well I bought a cappack for this boat and still havent used it. I decided to just add 2 capacitors to the existing ones instead. I really havent noticed a decrease in temps (around 150F for all 4), but I think the cappack will do better, so I am eager to see how you have it set up.
I have to say, I don't know how many degrees the CC Cap Pack would effect the ESU caps all by themselves. My ESU caps (before any mods) were 180. From reading all the posts, I was hoping for my CC Cap pack to effect my ESU cap temp by 30 to 40 degrees. Then with my water cooled heat sinks, I was hoping for 140 batteries, and 110 on everything else.
I also would like to see some pics of how you have that :cool: cooling system set up.....
Some pictures soon please...:)
How to make the waterline? Could you share please? As you said before it was made of brass?
Yep, brass for two reasons: one, really good heat xfer. And two, it can be soldered. Most hobby stores have brass stock, and I used the middle grade thickness in making my heat sinks. The heat-sink for my ESU caps has 9 parts to assemble. The heat sink for my CC Cap Pack has 7 parts to assemble. The main part that determined all the other parts dementions is the brass tube size needed for the rubber cooling hose to fit onto. For me, I used the same tube size as my ESU factory tube.
[I]I know that some people like bigger size rubber tubes, but whatever your smallest tube size is in the waterline you are using will determine the waterflow. Anyway, I wanted to be all factory.[/I]
Next, I got square tube stock that the round tube stock would fit into. From there the length and width of the caps (ECU or CC Cap) determined the length and width of the plates needed for each cap heat-sink. On the ECU cap heat-sink, I bent the edges up, and soldered everything between the bent-up edges. I also have the ESU caps (the exposed part) surrounded by brass, and soldered underneath the main body of the ESU water cooled heat-sink. Then the whole ESU cap heat-sink fits right over the two exposed ESU caps (heat sink compound applied between caps and heat sink), and is secured with a dab of 100% NAPA silicon...I'm being specific with NAPA silicon, because it's high temp, and isn't junk.
With the CC Cap heat-sink, the only difference is: the heat-sink edges are bent down, so that it can be secured to the CC Cap Pack with the above mentioned silicon. Thus, why the CC Cap Pack heat sink has 2 less brass components then the ESU cap heat-sink.
Can't wait until you post the build of the cooling sys. Are you going to post here, there or both???
Again, very nicely put together:thumbup: