All right folks this is what everybody has been waiting for and wanting. Got my old camera out and recharged the battery hoping it would last long enough to get a video. It's grainy and not to great due to camera is about shot.
Got three videos for ya. One at floor level without body, one a little higher up without body and then one with body.
Sorry no outside shoots as it is raining.
Crab looks to be kinda worthless IMO !
This one is at floor level and with all video just trying to show how the steering works and the difference in turning radius with 4 wheel steer activated.
Without body with camera set on coffee table
With the body on with camera setting on coffee table, and looks like got some light work to do they are still flickering as you will see.
Wow, more than ever I'm sold on the 4ws! Haha, I have my servo, my steering rig and all that, just no computer yet.
How are the rear-wheels for returning to center?
[QUOTE=krallopian;5308736]Wow, more than ever I'm sold on the 4ws! Haha, I have my servo, my steering rig and all that, just no computer yet.
How are the rear-wheels for returning to center?[/QUOTE]
With the regular 4 wheel steer not that big of a problem but with the crab it does not always want to return to dead center all the time. Need to try and do a little more adjusting on the Punk but not sure it won't throw something else out. Also noticed need to reset my toe in/out which may help with centering. That crab steer is kinda worthless IMO so doubt is it gets used much if at all. Buying Jimmie's first radio build sure helped out a LOT with this build, especially with the 4 wheel steering using the punk steering computer.
Yeah the little things like toe tuning will make a big difference in straight line performance! Great work man, I'm getting annoyed seeing everyones projects starting and finishing before mine! hahaha
I'm stuck on this - forever waiting routine on parts, I have about 17 packages of tid bits on their way here from China.
Keep it up!
Don't get to annoyed yours is a lot more complicated than anyone else. Besides that got a back order in today and got a double alum servo arm that would work out great ONLY problem is, would have to turn the servo vert. for it to work do to the alum. bumper brackets also included where the Traxxas Aluminum Hollow Ball Set Revo with bump steer shims.
Beginning to think once you customize your Summit that's it there is no end to it :lol:
I got most of the parts together, similar to your implementation. I hope to work on mine this weekend.
[QUOTE=Edstoys;5308742]Buying Jimmie's first radio build sure helped out a LOT with this build, especially with the 4 wheel steering using the punk steering computer.[/QUOTE]
I kinda designed the modifications around/for the Punk SPC.
Did you guys see posts 157 & 158 on page 4 ? Jimmie you will understand more after you see your IM why all the wires.
Here are links to [URL="http://traxxas.com/forums/showthread.php?8962182-Ed-s-New-Summit-Build&p=5308123&viewfull=1#post5308123"]157[/URL] and [URL="http://traxxas.com/forums/showthread.php?8962182-Ed-s-New-Summit-Build&p=5308124&viewfull=1#post5308124"]158[/URL] for those that don't want to search...
Crab walking become more useful once you start crawling. Sometimes just a little bit shorter of a wheel base is all you need to conquer an obstacle... or to get that rear tire to grab the only traction you can find yet still be able to head the same direction.
Had to do some work on my Rx box to make room for more stuff :lol:
Here is the box before altering
Here it is after making it taller. What was done was cut the top of one at the first form line from the top (where it bends in) then epoxied another top to it. Filled in the gaps/sanded/painted.
Inside view, the switch from china does not show but that great as they are not supposed to be shown anyway and its velcroed to the top,CCBEC to the side. Punk function light still shows threw the indicator window.
[QUOTE=Jimmie Neutron;5312345]Quality work!!
Thanks Jimmie, does not surprise me that you would comment on it ! Wife says my problem is always trying to make things perfect, which can't be done in my book but can come very close. Lets see who said it? " That's how I roll " to the best of my ability.
Barring frying ESC's tho :eek::lol:
I like your little servo connectors bank too! ;)
[QUOTE=krallopian;5312813]I like your little servo connectors bank too! ;)[/QUOTE]
Double sticky tap between each connector, then velcro on one side the other part of velcro on Rx box wire cover.;)
Only way could figure out how to put them in one place and be neat with out them being lose all over the place.
Hey you know I'm thinking, after working on my rear-steering I've found a huge reason why you would be getting heat. When I have my servo saver mounted where you do, it doesn't want to ROTATE so much as slide side to side. If I lower the pivot of the servo saver, then it wants to pivot... MUCH less work for the servo(s). The trouble is, it's pretty low.
But think of it this way:
The FRONT slides LEFT to RIGHT horizontally and it works just fine. But what we're trying to do is make it slide left and right, VERTICALLY and that simply - mechanically - doesn't work unless we lower the servo saver.
Either way, I'm working on a way to find a happy medium, but we'll see..
Noticed that as well couple of wks ago, got side tracked with another problem so have not got around to looking at it again.
Agree tho and noticed it on mine big time when turning it hard as the servo saver was more less shifting top to bottom as it turned. But where it is now not having any heat issues, but can tell some things are going to wear out fast if not break mainly the screw threw the middle of the servo saver.
Figured out a way to lower it, but first need to figure out a different way to attach the rear bumper as the aluminum now used to attach the bumper to gets in the way. But right now might just keep running it the way it is and see what breaks first LOL.
Good catch tho :thumbup:
Yeah I noticed that you shaved off the bumper mounts like I did. However for $8 tomorrow I'm getting a new one, and I'm going to mount the bumper under the bottom mounts! So there were four little nubs.. two at the top and two at the bottom that two screws go through to hold the bumper on.. I'm thinking that I'll be able to mount the bumper underneath the bottom two, with just two screws going through only the bottom two nubs. Won't be AS secure, but should be more than enough, AND with the way I have the servo saver mounted, it's going to work just fine (have mock tested it already.)
Hope you follow what I'm saying. You WILL need a new one, but it will be good to use the stock flexible plastic bumper mount again.
Kinda understand what you are saying but do not understand how you are going to get the arm from the servo saver to clear the bumper mount, that is why mine is done the way it is now. Looked at the way you are talking about and could not get the arm off the servo saver to clear the stock bumper mount at all below it hit almost right off the bat.
Besides that lowering the servo saver give no room for any kind of real support for anchoring it, like mine is done now.
Will look at it again but hard to do when you already have a working system. I do have all the parts to do as you are suggesting just do not see how it will work, due to interference.
But one mans design always leads to someone else being able to come up with a better system.;) Its called progress in my book.
Yeah, so thanks for that!! Hahah
Basically, I've flipped the rear bumper MOUNT, upside down... and it fits!
[QUOTE=krallopian;5327658]Yeah, so thanks for that!! Hahah
Basically, I've flipped the rear bumper MOUNT, upside down... and it fits![/QUOTE]
I looked at flipping the bumper upside down when this project was first started and decided that it would not allow for much clearance when going over something steep or over rocks. Some of the places you had shown pics of looks like it may create problems for you as well. Still open about your changes, and am waiting patiently for pics of your system. Last night I measured the slop on the front toe links and the back ones as well, the way mine is set up now there is a 1/8 - 3/16" height difference in the rear having a steeper slop by the dimensions given. Which is probably enough to create problems for the servo, but am not having heat problem any longer. To get it within range with the front looks like there would be no way to protect the bottom of the servo saver.
On another note, I have done the transmission mod, and roof light mod to mine. Titan motor/esc are back in the truck and it running great, just under powered now do to all the weight and shocks are well you know with all the weight on yours.
Real interested in seeing how you doubled your shocks as that is one of the things I have not been able to figure out.
As soon as they arrive..... I'll get some pics of how I will do it.
As for the height of the steering, it turns out the best level for the traxxas servo saver I'm using seems to be EXACTLY in the middle of the "X" brace on the body post mount. I tried it lower and higher, and as for keeping the toe-in correct, the least amount of work for the servo, and the safest height for impact damage to the bottom of the servo saver.. right smack-dab in the middle of the X brace.
Transmission mod - notice a big difference?
Roof lights are a fun addition, but I was upset with how little they helped night driving.
Mine is just a hair above the X in fact the hole for the alum. rod is at the junction of the x.
And by the way that statement I made in post 178 " But one mans design always leads to someone else being able to come up with a better system.Its called progress in my book." Was not aimed at you or anyone else on the board, just a reference to how most industries work.
[QUOTE=Edstoys;5328224]Mine is just a hair above the X in fact the hole for the alum. rod is at the junction of the x.
And by the way that statement I made in post 178 " But one mans design always leads to someone else being able to come up with a better system.Its called progress in my book." Was not aimed at you or anyone else on the board, just a reference to how most industries work.[/QUOTE]
+1 to that mate...progress; it how we learn and develop our skills ;).
Yeah of course, even if it was - can't possibly take offence to something like that haha! That's the whole purpose of this forum - progress! I posted pics of my 4ws btw.
Right now it's just screwed in to the X with a 30mm m3 screw, I need to find some 40-50mm ones otherwise find that aluminum rod you have. It is super sturdy without it right now, I just don't like the idea of threading in to the plastic, I'd prefer a metal thread. We'll see what happens with time I guess.
Any issues with yours yet?
Why the metal rod in mine, did not trust just having it threaded into plastic with all the torq going on. If you find some long screws let me know where you get them, as I looked all over the place with no luck. 30x3 was the longest I could find.
Well I found a bunch on ebay... plenty there if you look for m3 40.
But I didn't want to wait again, so I haven't placed an order.
Will not do business with ebay, got burned once real good so that was it for them.
But thanks for telling me !
Also have reconfigured my rear steering, really not much change but did lower my servo saver with less weighty material and also less flex in the body support now. Will try and get some pics up later when the servo has been re centered and everything hooked back up.
Reconfigured my rear steering by lowering the servo saver and adding protection for the toe links.
Left my bumper where it was and do not like it as low as Krall put his that low might inter fear with steep climbs or going over a high obstetrical...IMO. Removed the plexiglass and used 1/16 alum flat stock for bracing which helped get the servo saver closer to the body support. Used 1/16 alum flat stock attached to the T-bone A-arm skid plates to protect the toe links, without those (one each side) toe link is left wide open for damage when dropping off of any kind of steep obstetrical. The way it is now steering is a lot smother and stronger as far as I can tell right now. OK pictures are worth a 1000 words so here ya go.
Different angle for the next two without the toe link protection.
Ground view without TL protection
Same view with T-bone A-arm skid plate and toe link protection on one side.
Showing toe link protection from the top
At lest now I will feel better about dropping off of a step bank, rock or what not and not having to worry about weather the toe links are going to get damaged or not.....Nothing else its for my own peace of mind. If someone else would like some peace of mind just ask your questions. Oh one thing tho without the T-Bone A arm skid plates the toe link protection can not be done the way I have it configured. Does not mean there are not other ways to do it tho.:)
Just a side note; ordered 2 batteries from Spec Point Concepts and within 30 mins got an email saying my order had been shipped. This was before even getting a confirmation e mail on the order. Now that's what I call service.:thumbup:
Looks great, I like how minimal the aluminum looks now too!
Transmission mod - notice a big difference?
Roof lights are a fun addition, but I was upset with how little they helped night driving.[/QUOTE]
Sorry Krall some how missed this first time around.
The transmission mod- is working out great locks in low a lot faster as in no delay and unlocks just as fast.
Roof lights already had, just rigged them so no more plugging in or unplugging. Mine seem to help with distance when driving at night but other than that they are aimed to high in my book for practical use.
[QUOTE=krallopian;5330027]Looks great, I like how minimal the aluminum looks now too![/QUOTE]
LOL that is funny to me because now there is more alum., but guess it is not as prevalent as before. Debating about taking it all apart and painting the alum black. Not real sure how long the paint will last on the toe link protection pieces, but did use truck bed liner spray paint. Might help it last on the top side but figure the first rock or what not it hits paint will start coming off on the underneath side.
FINALLY after half a dozon changes, have got a rear steering system that works and am happy with.:thumbup:
Center of the rear bumper support/mount was cut out and an aluminum bracket was made to fit between the pins.
This allowed room for the servo saver and to be able to drop the bumper lower and do away with the aluminum rods.
All painted and done. Sorry did not take pics of the parts as was not sure it would work and to get the bumper support off have to remove the servo saver. Also took a piece of aluminum sold rod and drilled threw and threaded for a 3mm screw. Then put a screw in it and put the screw in a drill and with a sanding disk in a dremel turned it down to around between 3/16 and 1/4" meaning it is 3/16 on one end and 1/4 on the other then drilled a 3/16" hole at the X on the body support and using a screw from the back side drew it all the way in until flush. Oops Aluminum threaded rod is about 7/16" long. This rod is not visible as it is behind the aluminum plate.
Close up on one side showing the aluminum bracket made for the bumper mount. The screw holding the aluminum bracket on go all the way threw to the aluminum bulk head which is also drilled and threaded for the screw, so it is well supported.
Fell now that I have a very strong and well protected rear steering system. Finally!
Beautiful! I really like how the black came out.
SEEE, the bumper's not too low! ;)
I was thinking of doing the same bumper style mount, just cutting out the center of it... but, well I didn't, glad to see how it worked out!
Great stuff Eds, this is certainly a "role-model" for rear-steering!
Thanks Krall :thumbup: Seems you are the only one making comments on my project or the other can't tell the difference in the changes that have been done. :lol:
ON another note........If anyone is [I]Really[/I] [U]interested[/U] I will sit down and do a building of materials., an post it.
Of course that would be very much appreciated by many I'm sure.
I'm following, just having never done it
Don't know where I could help.
It looks like a solid build.
Sent using lipo power
[QUOTE=jamann;5334040]Of course that would be very much appreciated by many I'm sure.
I'm following, just having never done it
Don't know where I could help.
It looks like a solid build.
Sent using lipo power[/QUOTE]
Have been working on it when able, but having a rough time right now, and with surgery on Tuesday probably will not get it done by then. Will not be back home until Dec.7th at the earliest from surgery.
Also having a real hard time getting logged in. Takes about 20 tries and them might get logged in. But most of the time end up being sent to a blank screen or page is unavailable.
Also got a free new style Dewalt 14V motor out of a drill that was dropped off a roof and case shattered. Free stuff is nice.
Take care everyone, have fun and will try and get the building material list up before Monday.
No worries get well and take care we will be here when you get back.
I think I speak for many,if not all of us summit folks,sending all the best wishes and good mojo we got.lock the internal diff's and grind your way over the mountain.
Sent using lipo power
Best wishes for Tuesday:thumbup: