Start with the lowest. If you feel that you need less camber as the truck is cornering, go up one hole, or take some neg camber away. I believe the stock position is the lower hole, so start there. You can change it to see if it handles differently. Then use the hole that feels the best to you.
yeah stock is the lower hole. so when i switched towers i just put it back there. so i want to get this strait, the lower hole keeps more constant camber through suspension travel and the upper hole will go more negative caber under compression?
No, the more angle the link is at (inside being lower than the carrier mount), the more negative camber gain you will get. So just the opposite of your last statement.
Now if the inside link mount is higher than the carrier mount, you will get positive camber gain(not good). Thats why on most suspensions(if not all) you will see the inner link mount lower than the outer link mount.
EDIT: To add, when you have a bearing carrier like the protrac or anza, which has 3 holes across, a shorter link mounted in the inside carrier hole will give more neg camber gain than a longer link in the outside carrier hole.
So, you could use a shorter link in the upper inside mount and inside carrier mount to get the same amount of camber gain as a stock link in stock mounting positions. Our rc's rival 1:1 race cars in adjust-ability and tuning options... all for a fraction of the price!
[QUOTE=rag6;5282664]I love suspension lol![/QUOTE]
i love suspension to, its just been awhile and i got it backwards lol
update, heres the pics of my drywall tape/shoe goo repair.
not much to really say on these ones except you can see where it messed up the paint in spots. mostly the gree paint. i layed it on heavy around the damaged spots, med around the starting to be damaged spots, and light around the rest of the edge to keep it from ripping as well.
another update: pics of caster blocks
wonder whats in here?
the one that actually broke in the wreck replaced
both installed, i dont know why but i love this green!
some different angles in there
i think it would look great with the green battery strap but seems kind of pointless, havent had a problem with the one thats on it now. just the clip coming out the other day which in turn caused my battery to come out. stayed under the body and it was in the grass anyway so it wasnt so bad lol
Dont forget to goo those body holes. I dont use the drywall tape there anymore, just a thin layer of goo in a 1" circle around the hole.
For some odd reason I like the Traxxas & STRC Green Alloy parts too!! LOL
[URL=http://s1134.photobucket.com/albums/m610/mustangkyng/?action=view¤t=CameraZOOM-20120303221339627.jpg][IMG]http://i1134.photobucket.com/albums/m610/mustangkyng/th_CameraZOOM-20120303221339627.jpg[/IMG][/URL] [URL=http://s1134.photobucket.com/albums/m610/mustangkyng/?action=view¤t=CameraZOOM-20120309163856502.jpg][IMG]http://i1134.photobucket.com/albums/m610/mustangkyng/th_CameraZOOM-20120309163856502.jpg[/IMG][/URL] [URL=http://s1134.photobucket.com/albums/m610/mustangkyng/?action=view¤t=CameraZOOM-20120309162706282.jpg][IMG]http://i1134.photobucket.com/albums/m610/mustangkyng/th_CameraZOOM-20120309162706282.jpg[/IMG][/URL] [URL=http://s1134.photobucket.com/albums/m610/mustangkyng/?action=view¤t=CameraZOOM-20120304200325476.jpg][IMG]http://i1134.photobucket.com/albums/m610/mustangkyng/th_CameraZOOM-20120304200325476.jpg[/IMG][/URL]
The bulk is STRC, C-block, Carriers, wheel hexes and nuts are Traxxas. The green tie bar is from eBay. Good stuff man. I didnt want to jack your thread so I used IMG thumbs.
word, thats a pretty sweet looking rig you got there digg
and rag, i havent done the body holes because i havent had a problem, but i may put some goo there to be safe if you recomend it.
so about my rear tower,
i sent out an email sat to strc about it and they got back to me today. they want me to send it in so they can inspect why it failed to see if they will warranty. i replied back to make sure they would atleast send my old tower back to me if not warranty. so everyone cross your fingers for me lol. cus if nothing else ill bolt it together and maybe even have a friend tig weld it together then if the bolts cant hold it tight.
got another email back from strc. basically to sum thngs up they cant guarantee anything because "sometimes" the inspection process leaves the part un usable. i replied back basically saying that i would gladly send pics to show the tower isnt twisted or anything from hard wreck but i thought that i was receiving kind of poor customer service and that i could easily switch to another company as well as persuade many others to do the same. i asked if a $30 sale was really worth the extra $5 if that to send me another one and just get a happy customer and prevent a bad reputation and future loss of many sales. i stayed calm about it, i just kind of hope they see it the way i tried to explain it and step up there customer service a little.
if not, well lets just say i will no longer be ordering parts from them and recomending to others not to as well.
well figured out what im going to do. im gluing my stock shock tower back together where it split at the lower camber link hole. im also just gluing the lower hole shut for added strength. once this is done i will be able to run my stock tower again but im going to just use the top camber link hole since the one that broke is still spread open some.
dont know if i will be getting a new one or what but i guess im sending my tower into strc and hope they just send me a new one. if not i guess ill just use the stock one for longer until it brakes. and if and when it does ill just get some rpm parts.
Another option would be the proline rear tower. I have been using my original for a long time. I have broken other parts in the pl suspension line, but not the rear tower. I think they got that one right the first time.
yeah, thought about maybe saving up for a protrack setup.
also have another concern that i keep forgetting to ask about.
so right now i have the stock tires, which balloon of course. but once i get new tires they will be taped. i notice that if im just holding the truck for example and hit the throttle the tires balloon out to a certain point at which they then move back and fourth violently on the small amount of play the carrier has on the rear control arms.
Well I went to the hobby shop today.............. Did not come home empty handed by any means. Rpm front tower, rpm rear tower, rpm front skid plate, 76t spur gear, 25t pinion, bag of body clips and some stuff for my brothers t-maxx as well. Only problem with the skid is that my servo saver which was close to hitting the stock plate now does hit my rpm skid. Found that out after it would wander every time i turned wheel, and keep changing which way it would wonder. Figured I would run the 23t pinion with the 76 spur to see what my temps were at first. There up to about 150 degrees now so I'm debating on the 25t pinion or if I should get a 24t. But at 1/4 slipper adjustment it still wont keep the front end down.even after I moved the battery to the front adjustment.
[QUOTE=08kgraves;5283862]also have another concern that i keep forgetting to ask about.
so right now i have the stock tires, which balloon of course. but once i get new tires they will be taped. i notice that if im just holding the truck for example and hit the throttle the tires balloon out to a certain point at which they then move back and fourth violently on the small amount of play the carrier has on the rear control arms.[/QUOTE]
You can shim those pins with TW to the point where they arent in a bind if need be. There is going to be a little play. Another good thing is to balance the wheels/ tires, that will cut out/ down some of the vibration and off balance wobble. Down the road STRC & Lunsford offer some awesome hinge pin upgrades. I use both and they are fantastic. STRC uses heat treated steel and nylock nut, Lunsford is titanium with e-clips on both ends. You may even know this already. LOL
+1 on the protrac upgrades. Rag isnt going to steer you in the wrong direction. BTW glad to see someone else likes the awesome green parts that STRC & Traxxas offers. I totally dig your rig man. Good stuff there. Keep up the good work.
i think its just a combination of the tires not being taped since there stock along with the the space for carrier to move as much as it does. because its fine until the tires balloon so much, then they just go crazy more or less as they rapidly go back and fourth with what amount of play and everything looks like its going to shake to the point that it will rip itself apart lol
oh and thanks dig, its a work in progress. bash it, break it, upgrade it, bash it some more :)
so after some consideration im thinking that among my next upgrades (unless i break something ill upgrade that first) will be some powerstroke shocks, protrack kit, and chassis saver. but heres my debate........... do i just get sc trencher tires to go on the wheels that with it? or do i get stampede 2.8" wheels and trenchers on them for the mt? i was going to do the slash 4x4 as a monster truck but being 2wd the extra clearance would really help im thinking.
edit: after going and looking at tire options i think im just going to keep this more of a sc truck. so ill just get tires for the protrack wheels.
ok so last time i drove my slash after putting my rpm front skid brace on i didnt check the steering right then to make sure it worked fine still. didnt figure out there was an issue until i was out bashing. seemed like my rig was wondering or something. turns out the servo horn was catching the skid plate every time i turned and would get stuck either left or right depending on which way i turned.
so today i busted out the dremel and trimeed the access of my servo horn down (unused mounting holes) as well as shortened my front body posts by roughly 1/4" to try and level body out more as well as keeping the front of body from popping over the front bumper.
just linking a thread about the long day i had. put it this way............ its time for more upgrades sadly
pics from rpm parts install.
working on the rc
all pulled apart
the new parts
rpm rear tower installed
new 76t spur on the right. stock 86t on the left
new gear installed
cut 2 more coils off my now front springs. making it 4 coils cut on each front spring total now. (rear springs just moved up front)
didnt get pics at the time of my front tower installed or the front chassis brace, but ill get some up.
all the hard work made my dog tired though lol
and just tonight i tested my top speed again with the new 76t spur gear. im now up to 35mph on gps which i think is a little off. so if its off by amount i think then its actually 37mph. and at some point a small corner of one of my slipper pads broke so i gotta work on that as well.
pics from the latest carnage...............
my broken diff, metal gear, part of tooth missing on very top
3 teeth completely missing from my idler gear
another view of my idler gear
my failed bearings from left rear wheel. or what left. the top 3 pieces are supposed to be one piece lol
my friends differential i stripped in about 2 minutes or less (nylon gear)
[QUOTE=08kgraves;5287636]and just tonight i tested my top speed again with the new 76t spur gear. im now up to 35mph on gps which i think is a little off. so if its off by amount i think then its actually 37mph. and at some point a small corner of one of my slipper pads broke so i gotta work on that as well.[/QUOTE]
With that gearing you should be closer to 37. But it could be the GPS is off or like the carnage shown below. You might have had a bad bearing or something in a little bind. I've been lucky and havent busted my inner tranny gears like that. I had a problem with my top gear and input shaft which was my fault in missing a TW shim. It kept sliding off, and that can be a booger to get back on the spring pin. I now have a vise to better work with. While you are in the tranny check out your bearings, clean and lube them, replace if they don't spin freely. Be a good idea to check your carrier bearings to. Spin the tires and see how long they roll. Balancing them will make them spin longer and smoother without the teeter tottering towards the end. ;)
On the Proline Powerstrokes they are a good set of shocks but I think they are a tad costly for what you can buy for way less. The Traxxas BBs are very worth the $50 you spend on them or for around the same cost a set of Fr/Rr Losi Ten-T/ SCTE shocks. I run all these and they are good, just the Cost to value ratio on the Powerstrokes is more.
the front tires will spin forever i know that. the rears have new bearings in them. on both sides. as far as the bearings inside i didnt go through and check them, but is the inside of the case supposed to have grease everywhere for the gears? or is that just the diff leaking out? lol
the biggest thing i like about the powerstroke shocks is the spring options. if i could use them on big bores or other shocks for example i could care less though lol. you should measure or test fit the powerstroke srping system on the big bores, ten t's, and stock for me. make sure the little spacer in the middle of the two springs fits as well lol.
because if they fit i may get me a spring assortment kit from proline for front and rear and just use it on my stock shocks for now. and then whatever i upgrade to.
heres what the inside of a stock diff looks like............. thought id take a pic for everyone lol
more carnage pics from the other day
ripped off balance port
Are you running in water? The inner diff gears grease looks like there is water mixed in.
umm.............. guilty lol
Water = lots of inspecting and tear downs on a more frequent basis. I keep telling myself I want a cheap roller with waterproof electronics and water bash. Just haven't seem to build one yet. LOL
Sent from my Samsung Galaxy S III ~ using Xparent Green Tapatalk 2
yeah thats one good think about stock electronics lol
man, i hate having no job lol. i wanna drive my broken rc car :(
Graves, after reading this thread, I think that you may be interested in a book about suspension tuning. It's called "Chassis Engineering", by Herb Adams, an ex-GM engineer who did all of the suspension development on the 2nd generation Trans Am. It's very informative, and is presented in a way that has real-world applications. Although it's focused on road race and street performance, it really helped me to understand how all of the various suspension angles effect the vehicle dynamics.
well i went to college for high performance. learned all about suspensions. but my learning of setups applies more to either circle track or drag racing. granted theres things that can be changed to help for turning both ways but u get the idea of where im going with this lol.
ill deffinately keep this book in mind though and maybe pick it up one day just because.
Did you ever get those chuckworks materials I sent???
no, i never got them. i sent you a text because i still had your number but you never responded. i dont know what happend to them man, but they never got here. i didnt have any problems receiving the other parts though.....................
first i will note that this is not a bash against traxxas in any way shape or form and has nothing to do with them other then a traxxas style plug. i have been very impressed with traxxas customer service in the past when dealing with my old t-maxx.
so ill get started. as you can see from both the pictures and story in posts above the last time i had my slash out and running i just randomly lost my balance port like it was just pulled off or something. well i dont know why i waited so long but today i finally got around to it and callet up duratrax customer support. i specified that i had a problem with a lipo battery from the onyx series and he asked me which one. you know the normal. then we continue as he gets my name, address and info also asks where i bought it from (i suspected just for records at this point still) then he puts me on hold for a minute or two and comes back. (at this point he still has not asked me what my problem was exactly) then he just says ok were going to get a new one shipped out for you and it will be there in a few days. i asked him you dont want to know whats wrong even? ( surprised now at this point) and he still just says nope, were just going to replace it for you. i was so suprised at this point im not even sure if i remembered to thank him lol.
but yeah i just thought i would share for those of you who are considering an onyx battery for your rigs.
on a side not i might have to get me an extention or somethign and solder a plug back on so i have 3 lipo's then :)
Just be sure to do it one wire at a time. I have a losi mini lipo that I changed the balance connector on to fit my charger. Almost smoke that little thing. It might not have gone that way if the battery was bigger than my thumb but still.
[QUOTE=08kgraves;5313903]no, i never got them. i sent you a text because i still had your number but you never responded. i dont know what happend to them man, but they never got here. i didnt have any problems receiving the other parts though.....................[/QUOTE]
Yea, I am usually driving and it is dangerous and illegal to text while driving. I tell all my customers and friends not to text. If I am on the road, I delete them as they come in. I still have some scraps if you want me to re send them. First thing I have sent in mail without insurance in years... Figures lol. Dont know what happened either, but I will send some more if you want.
its up to you man. after reading more and reasearching more i believe you. so im not stressed about it never getting here.