My Late Model lcg mid engine build
Well the guys at my local track started racing 1/8 late model bodies on sc trucks. Being an oval enthusiast, and seeing 2 guys battle it out door to door for 50+ laps and ending 2 seconds apart, I was hooked.
In the parking lot of the the track that night, I ordered a Slice A-3 chassis from Chuckworks Rc off of ebay for $80 shipped. I went with this because my track is a small carpet oval (70'x35'), and the mid engine setup will help the truck rotate around the super tight turns. This will also help on the off road course they setup on Fri nights as it is mostly super tight and technical. This is also a review of the Slice chassis.
[B]The SLICE A-3 CHASSIS[/B]
First off, if you do not own a Dremel, and a drill, and do not have the ability to "massage" a few parts to fit, then this chassis is not recommended. At least on my sample. I had to custom fit a couple of parts, and they were pretty far off. Was not a deal breaker for me as most of the parts were just right, but someone that wants parts to fit perfect and everything to go together like Lego's, may incur a big hurdle or 2. I had to read between the lines a bit on the instructions also, they were adequate.
[B]Notes on assembly[/B]
On the first step, you are to install the three chassis blocks. When I bolted them in, it seemed as though the counter sinks on the bottom of the chassis were drilled too deep, and the aluminum chassis blocks were very loose, even know the 4mm counter sunk screws were bottomed out, through the chassis, against the blocks. At that moment, I thought I was going to have to send it back. I asked another member who has this setup how his was, and he told me to let everything loose till the end. Don't worry as this is a part of the design, and permeates the rest of the conversion.
When you get all the parts together, you can crank everything down tight, and end up with a solid platform.
Your gonna have to drill holes in the back of the suspension arms to attach the shocks 2. There is no template included, so your on your own to figure out where to drill them. I used a simple plastic caliper to measure everything.
The plastic tube that went between the aluminum rear bumper mounts was way to big, I dremeled it down over a ¼ inch to fit between the alum rear bumper blocks.
One other thing is the "battery gate" as its referred to in the instructions is one of the chassis supports, bolted to the "gate". You have to remove the cap head screw from the top of the "gate" to remove the support (what I call the "battery blocker tube") to get the pack in and out. There is no mention on how to do this in the instructions.
[B]Using an aftermarket trans:[/B]
I installed a new Hot racing full alum trans, but it is a flat motor plate setup, as opposed to the stock gearbox cradle. I had to add braces (the 2.5 Maxx links in the pics later) to reduce chassis flex in the right rear of the chassis.
The anti squat plate included with the slice kit,after assembly puts it at 0°. This is less than the 1.5° of stock. If you have an FLM or Hot Racing gearbox, you can properly adjust this back to stock. Using a stock trans or other trans you cannot.
If I forgot anything, I will post it later.
Anyway, this is what I finished with:
Being this is predominantly an oval car, I wanted to go with the 4pole castle mmp combo for higher rpm:
I wanted to switch back to the fine tuning possibilities of 48p gears for the track, as opposed to my 32p bashing setups. The strc top shaft/ Associated clutch setup works like a dream. Much finer adjustment than the stock slipper:
I have the pro trac suspension, and big bores as well at the ft HR sway bar installed. The links were stock trx links I had laying around:
In the pic above you can see the rear bumper and shock mount set up. This is the stiffest and most solid tower mount I have seen on any of the magnum trans 2wd vehicles.
The front top plate is super solid:
I used a slash 4x4 bell crank, modified to get stock 2wd geometry. I seen it over at URC to get the idea, but cannot find the link right now.
The Slice came with a threaded rod for the servo link, but I just used a slash 4x4 link. Its the perfect size: