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  1. #1
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    My first SUMMIT build. (from scratch)

    I have officially begun my very first Summit build. As I am relatively new to this whole hobby, I will be relying on you guys to help me with decisions throughout the build. I live in Florida so there there is not a lot of places for crawling. I'm basically trying to build a high performance monster. Pretty much all moving parts will be some type of alloy, whether it is aluminum, titanium or steel. I'm open to all suggestions. This will be a relatively slow build as I, like most, do not have unlimited income. Thanks for visiting the thread.


    CodyWorks

  2. #2
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    Now if I can just figure out how to post pictures.
    Last edited by CodyWorks; 08-18-2014 at 10:38 PM.

  3. #3
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    Picture Posting Tutorial
    Here's the first help. ^^^
    Alt-248 on the number pad =

  4. #4
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    You sir, are a gentleman and a scholar.

  5. #5
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    If you don't have a lot of places to crawl don't build/buy a Summit. Learn from my EXPENSIVE mistake. If you want speed, build an Erevo. And don't use a lot of metal or alloy.
    Slash MT, 1/10 Summit.

  6. #6
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    Chassis and receiver box... All RPM A-arms.

  7. #7
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    Extended A-arms for the rear..

  8. #8
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    @Summitbasher420... I'm not looking for super speed. Mainly just a monster truck w/ enough power to make me happy. If I'm not happy with the end result, I'll just chalk it up as an expensive learning experience haha

  9. #9
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    That's why I suggest an Erevo!! You could start off using two Titan 550's, then if you want more speed go brushless.

    BTW it's summitbasher240 because this is a family friendly Forum. LoL
    Slash MT, 1/10 Summit.

  10. #10
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    Honest mistake lol

  11. #11
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    Did you get my PM (private message)?
    Slash MT, 1/10 Summit.

  12. #12
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    Yeah, just responded. Thank you.

  13. #13
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    Man do like summitbasher said if u don't have alot of places to crawl u need a e revo brushless if u want a rc with nothing but performance the e revo is king the e revo can out run most gas powered rcs at 40 45 mph the revo can
    pick the front tires up like they ain't the revo is a best of a rc. If I performance I would get the e brushless.. My next electric rc is the brushless e revo. they ain't many gas powered rcs that can take on the e revo and if thier is a gas powered that can out run it.... It want be much that's a trust me the summit want run fast only about 21mph not unless buy a brushless motor then u will still have to up grade some because the motor will break them
    Last edited by Billgates1234; 08-19-2014 at 12:30 AM.

  14. #14
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. noir 522's Avatar
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    Guys settle down

    hes building it literally from scratch (see the bare naked chassis). Who knows how its gonna end up. We are knocking his decision based on what top speed he wants,


    My Goodness he has yet to even install a motor!!!!!!!

    I myself enjoy a big slow and low geared summit. But there are 3 companies selling indestructible summit diffs that can handle brushless speeds.

    We have all seen crawling summits, a Dakar style summit would be interesting. Look, he all ready made two great choices
    1) He chose RPM arms over metal arms
    2) He chose our wonderful Summit community for assistance and encouragement (not beration and na-saying)
    Welcome to the community.

    Lets see a Dakar style summit


    Let his creativity continue

    He might just suprise us

    Last edited by noir 522; 08-19-2014 at 06:14 AM.
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    Hey man can u name the diffs that can take a brushless motor I haven't seen anyone that said they have found some diffs for the summit 1 10 that could take the power of brushless could u name them I I want to get me some when I get done killing my stock ones lol

  16. #16
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. noir 522's Avatar
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    See above post
    Last edited by noir 522; 08-19-2014 at 06:15 AM.
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  17. #17
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. noir 522's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Billgates1234 View Post
    Hey man can u name the diffs that can take a brushless motor I haven't seen anyone that said they have found some diffs for the summit 1 10 that could take the power of brushless could u name them I I want to get me some when I get done killing my stock ones lol

    I have been crawling with a combination of GPM steel gears and Truckmaster diffs without a hiccup (tekin powered)

    Jamman has been crawling /bashing with a complete TruckMaster set up and has yet to report any diff failures (DeWalt powered)

    LEM diffs are said to be as strong at a much lower price
    t
    MAN, Use Common Sense
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  18. #18
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    Yeah, I think noir is right. We need to let Cody build his truck the way he wants. I know I get just as much enjoyment of wrenching as I do bashing. So have fun with it Cody, and ask for advice here. There's lot of knowledge people here.
    Slash MT, 1/10 Summit.

  19. #19
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    I'm running a 2200kv brushless motor with mamba Monster 2 ain't it more powerful then the Dewalt? I will try all these diffs first I got to get my connector solder on my 40watt Weller solder gun should be here sometime this week when I get solder I'm going to hit some holes and if I break of my diffs I will just replace them the lem I them r some strong diffs haven't heard of anyone breaking breaking them yet

  20. #20
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    Thanks fellas.. As I said, its gonna be a slow build because all of the parts are going to be expensive. I could build a stock-ish one with all plastic parts in no time. For this one, I want to build it with the best parts installed from the beginning. Hopefully I'll end up with a summit that can harness and withstand the brushless power.

  21. #21
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    Sooo... Next Thursday, I'll be ordering a couple more parts. Any thoughts on what should come next? Bulks? Tranny? Diffs? I'm waiting to order axles because I want the aluminum axles that Traxxas is testing.

  22. #22
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. noir 522's Avatar
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    What aluminum axles?
    MAN, Use Common Sense
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  23. #23
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    I think he may be talking about LEM but hope I'm wrong.

  24. #24
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    http://traxxas.com/forums/showthread...=1#post5584222

    I was talking about the LEM. I thought they were Traxxas (my bad). The guy in this thread ^^^ seems to like them. Are they good or bad? I have MIPs on my Slash and the pins keep breaking. I've been replacing them with cut off Alan wrenches and that's worked out well.
    Last edited by CodyWorks; 08-19-2014 at 09:17 PM.

  25. #25
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. noir 522's Avatar
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    I remember that thread
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  26. #26
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    From what I've read so far, it's pretty hard to break a bulkhead. That being said, I think I'm gonna order the plastic bulks for now. Later on, if I feel like I need stronger (or just better looking) bulks, I'll replaced them then. Any thoughts on this?

  27. #27
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    The problem with aluminum alloy, steel or titanium chassis pieces is that metal does not have near the amount of give the composite plastics will (such as RPM arms and factory parts). **** titanium will shatter before it really bends, Aluminum and steel will bend but getting them back to perfectly straight will not be possible, even if you could the molecular structure is compromised and no longer has its original strength and will easily bend again. Couple these properties together such as aluminum bulks with RPM arms and you'll popping A arms on every hard flip after a bad jump. If you go all aluminum and have a major wreck nearly everything can be damaged to the point of needing replaced, netting you an insanely expensive repair bill. Personally I would not pursue any metal hop ups other then drivelines and steel diff gears, maybe spur.

    Just my .02 Cents!

  28. #28
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. noir 522's Avatar
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    Aluminum in certain areas can be good. Especially in a slow crawler. But in a truck that is intended for high speeds the extra weight would slow you down and performance will suffer ( poor jumps and turns) making crashes more common. Then comes the agony of seeing that $45 aluminum part all mangled up.
    MAN, Use Common Sense
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  29. #29
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    Got the plastic bulks in. I have HR steering knuckles that should be in Monday. I also have a few questions for you guys... Does anyone know if HR makes rear knuckles or are the front and rear the same? Also, anyone have any suggestions on what motor to put in this thing? And who makes the best alloy differentials in you guys' opinions?

  30. #30
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    Hr makes rear knuckles . But like stock I thnk front/rear would be the same. If you are planning on going fast then you have to go brushless. A DeWalt would give you some speed, but I think you want 30+mph.

    motor/esc options
    1) If you want speed and a little crawling then
    Castle Creations MM2: great speed, waterproof, non sensored so take offs and crawling are not exceptionally smooth $$

    2) If you want speed AND great crawling then its the Tekin : speed, smooth take offs and smooth crawling, not waterproof so keep it dry.$$$

    there are cheaper optiins, but these two are the most popular, proven, and with great customer service.
    MAN, Use Common Sense
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  31. #31
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    There is a company that has a waterproof sensored ESC Viper RC. It's the VTX8 ESC, it's 2-6S lipo compatible, 2/4/6 pole, a programming card, 540/550 can 1:8 th scale motors, 7v/5A BEC.
    Slash MT, 1/10 Summit.

  32. #32
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    Quote Originally Posted by summitbasher240 View Post
    There is a company that has a waterproof sensored ESC Viper RC. It's the VTX8 ESC, it's 2-6S lipo compatible, 2/4/6 pole, a programming card, 540/550 can 1:8 th scale motors, 7v/5A BEC.
    I have the Viper VTX8 with the Viper 4-pole VF8 1900kv motor. I found the ESC on eBay with programming card for $180. The motor I got in an auction for around $80. This combo has more than enough speed and torque for the summit. I've coated the sensor ports and programming port with liquid electrical tape, but I have not had it submerged yet. (Chicken, yes) it has gotten wet from running through wet grass and puddles with no issues. This combo is not any cheaper that the Tekin, but it's sensored and waterproof.

    tl;dr I highly recommend the Viper combo.

  33. #33
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    they say the MM2 w/ castle creations 1/8 scale 2200 KV motor is waterproof if you pop the fan off of the ESC. Anyone know if this is true? Or do they advertise that and die out after a few times of getting wet. I've noticed a lot of people running the MM2 w/ brushless on Summits but I'm obviously very open on the options in this area.
    Last edited by CodyWorks; 08-24-2014 at 10:27 AM. Reason: I spell gud

  34. #34
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    The MM2 is indeed waterproof. Ive had mine completly submurged multiple times. And in the winter id put my summit in the shower to melt off the snow.
    The motor on the other hand you can get wet but you MUST dry it out after getting it wet or you will have issues with bearings and corroding the contacts on the can.

  35. #35
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    So basically it's like a little kid... it can play in the puddles but has to get a bath before going to bed... right?

  36. #36
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. noir 522's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by CodyWorks View Post
    So basically it's like a little kid... it can play in the puddles but has to get a bath before going to bed... right?
    actually that goes for the entire summit.
    Traxxas advertises waterproof, not rust/corrosion proof.
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  37. #37
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    Like my slash... it's been through plenty of water.. but every time I rinse it off and let it dry... it's never actually shut off in the water though... that's kinda what I'm looking for with this summit.. I don't mind breaking it down and doing maintenance afterwords at all.. am I correct on this? Also, who makes the best alloy differentials? I'm talking like, bulletproof...

  38. #38
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    LEM is a good choice for the diff cup and gears

  39. #39
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    Cool, thanks! I will be ordering a few things this coming thursday. Maybe some knuckles for the rear and then diffs.

  40. #40
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    +1 on the LEM diffs and spider gears. Mine have been going strong on 6s for almost a year now.

    And again for the Castle motor, letting it dry will not be good enough. You must remove all moisture by disassembling it and doing the bag of rice method. I had stainless bearings in my 2200 thinking it would prevent issues but I was wrong. The contacts in the can corroded causing the rotor to rub on them which inturn wore the kevlar wrapping off of the rotor and the magnets shredded.

    Also, with the bearings on the rest of the truck, I removed all the seals and packed them full of marine grease and reinstalled the seals and havent had a single rusted bearing so I highly recomend the same.

    And for the knuckles STRC makes some nice ones with larger bearings. I suggest doing all four corners as I found the plastic knuckles to be a weak point.

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