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  1. #1
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    lexan body paint

    this is my first time painting a lexan rc body. I have cut the body out and am now ready to paint. unfortunately I don't have any specialty rc lexan paint. I have done some research and heard that automotive paint works just as well(I have that paint). if you know anything about using automotive paint for lexan please help me out. thanks

  2. #2
    Marshal ksb51rl's Avatar
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    You really need paint made for polycarbonate.
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  3. #3
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. rag6's Avatar
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    Automotive paint made for flexible plastic parts may work, but who knows? Get a can of paint made to bond and flex for polycarbonate as stated by ksb. If not, you may have it flaking off after the first run...
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  4. #4
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    Paints such as tamiya, spax stix, or pactra (if you can find any) are made specifically for lexan and have tons of awesome colors. Post pictures of the body when you have it done please!
    Slash 4x4 LCG, Rusty VXL(not runnin), and my bike.

  5. #5
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    what about adding flex additive to automotive paint like they use on bumpers? would that work

  6. #6
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. rag6's Avatar
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    The probably have that flex additive already in the lexan paints. Not sure if the paint will eat the lexan though(prob not). If you do try it, take a piece that you trim off of the untrimmed body and test there first.

    May I ask why your not willing to pick up a can or 2 of the lexan specific paints? They only cost about 6 bucks.
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  7. #7
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    I live 50 miles from a hobby store

  8. #8
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    Vinyl & Fabric paint (you can get it from Plastikote, Duplicolor, VHT, and others) works better than "polycarbonate specific" paint, is available at most every autoparts store, and costs less than half as much as hobby-shop polycarb paint. A typical 11oz can of Duplicolor is about $6.50, the same as a 3oz can of Tamiya. The single drawback is limited number of colors, but the performance is unquestionably better. It goes on very thin, so it doesn't crack or chip, ever. I don't have a single chip in any of my vinyl & fabric painted bodies, even those with 2+ years of use.

    All of these shells are done exclusively with vinyl & fabric paint:

    SC8
    Ofna NEXX
    Parma Fifty Five
    JConcepts BAJR

  9. #9
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. rag6's Avatar
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    Nice drI. gotta try that stuff... though I have no chipping problems, the thin, fine spray sounds awesome. I use Tamiya exclusively because I got tired of the pactra cans "spitting" blobs when trying to do a fade, and they turned out much better with the finer spraying tamiya cans.
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  10. #10
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    Quote Originally Posted by sean1214 View Post
    Paints such as tamiya, spax stix, or pactra (if you can find any)
    Pactra is out of business and has been taken over by Duratrax. They are still making RC car paint and putting it under the Duratrax name. They are also putting it in bigger 4.5oz cans. I was just at the LHS yesterday to buy paint and was told that information. Bought the paint and actually think its better than Pactra. Nozzle does not spit or clog and light coats are more consistent in coverage and the bigger size assures you wont run out towards the end of the job.

    http://www.duratrax.com/paint/index.html
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  11. #11
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    Quote Originally Posted by rag6 View Post
    Nice drI. gotta try that stuff... though I have no chipping problems, the thin, fine spray sounds awesome. I use Tamiya exclusively because I got tired of the pactra cans "spitting" blobs when trying to do a fade, and they turned out much better with the finer spraying tamiya cans.
    I was strictly a Tamiya user before I tried vinyl & fabric-- the consistency of Pactra is what led me away from it as well. I honestly don't see myself going my to hobby-store paint ever again. On the bodies pictured, all of the white came out of the same can. You could easily paint three full SCT shells a solid color out of one can. When the shells get beaten to near-death, and are held together with handfuls of zip-ties and Gorilla Tape, I turn to the outside-- Duplicolor Adhesion Promoter and Krylon Fusion.

    Fusion'd SC8

  12. #12
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. rag6's Avatar
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    I really love to make a body outlast its welcome. I think that strips of packing tape under the shoogoo is way better than the drywall tape(still testing it, but shoo goo does not stick to the non adhesive side of packing tape...) The adhesion promoter is something I have never considered before. does it work on a new clear body on the inside, or is this an outer coating only option? Will shoogoo stick to it? Can you tell I love shoogoo for body repairs?

    By the way amazing goop is the same as shoogoo imo...
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  13. #13
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    The Fusion might work on the inside, but it just doesn't have the flexibility of the vinyl and fabric. I regularly retouch the bodies that are painted on the outside to cover up new scars and battle damage. Shoogoo will indeed stick to it. Instead of drywall mesh, which has almost no adhesive of it's own, I've been trying double sided carpet seaming tape. It is violently sticky on both sides, and the shoogoo almost seems to permanently meld with it.

  14. #14
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. harry697's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by codeman2443 View Post
    what about adding flex additive to automotive paint like they use on bumpers? would that work
    Flex additive is not really intended for automotive base coat. It's used for primers and clear coats. I have sprayed plenty of bodies with automotive base coats without issue. The guy I used to pay to spray my lids would also use automotive paint at times and I never had issues with those either. It's all in the prep.

  15. #15
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    Quote Originally Posted by Dr. Isotope View Post
    The Fusion might work on the inside,
    Negatory. When I first started painting lids I thought because Fusion was formulated to bond to plastic that using it would save a few bucks and I could paint several bodies with one rattle can. This is just not the case. The first few lids I painted were prograffix patterned lids that just needed a backing color. The paint wouldn't hold up through the first run. It flakes and chips. Has nothing to do with the prep...you can do prep to a T and the Fusion paints are just not the way to go.
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  16. #16
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    I just went with krylon fusion I will post pics and tell you all how it is holding up

  17. #17
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. rag6's Avatar
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    For now, I will stick with the tamiya paints. No flake, fine and focused spray pattern with no spitting...
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  18. #18
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    Quote Originally Posted by rag6 View Post
    For now, I will stick with the tamiya paints. No flake, fine and focused spray pattern with no spitting...
    I just used Duratrax paints to paint the lid on one of my nitros..Very happy with he results. Worth a look see. Might make you jump brands if you just give `em a try.











    Painted a very similar lid previous to this with tamiya paints and I don't think they look as uniform. Maybe I am nuts but Duratrax paints are awesome.
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  19. #19
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. rag6's Avatar
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    Is the last pic with the tamiya paint?

    Is the chrome painted on the outside?
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  20. #20
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    Quote Originally Posted by rag6 View Post
    Is the last pic with the tamiya paint?

    Is the chrome painted on the outside?
    No. Posted that last pic to show the metal flake. Now admittedly the flake is tamiya lame flake but rest of it is all duratrax. Last pick also taken with the over spray film still on it.

    The chrome trim is decals.
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