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  1. #1
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    WesleyK's Build Thread

    Figured I could start a build thread to show some upgrades/mods to my E-Revo. So here goes.

    Bought my E-Revo a month ago, and immediately put a T-Bone cender skid and rear bumper on. Still need to find a front bumper, as i find the T-Bone front bumper a bit too bulky.




    First mod to my Revo is some lights. In the Netherlands days are short in the winter so I wanted some lights to ride in the evening. For this I designed a custom front bumper and electronics to drive Cree XP-G leds.

    Render of the concept:



    Specs of the electronics:
    • Switching LED driver capable of driving 2 Cree XP-G leds
    • Max 500mA
    • Can be used as a brake light, for example the rear lights will get 50mA standard, and 500mA while braking
    • Input voltage can be anything between 10V-30V
    • Efficiency ~90%

    I will probably run the front leds(white) at 350mA, and the back leds at 50mA(red)

    Yesterday I received the 3D prints of the bumpers to test and see if it fits.
    Front(bolts are too long, need to get some shorter ones)


    Back


    Front lights on at night:

    Obviously the 3D printed parts need to be painted to get a good impression.

    Now I have to wait for my PCBs to arrive so I can assemble them and test the led drivers. After that I will order the final bumpers in 7075-T6 aluminum and probably hard anodized silver.

    Furthermore the standard upgrades will hopefully be added sometime:
    - HPP wheel hubs
    - HPP motor support
    - Tekno/Traxxas sway bar
    - 7075-T6 pushrods/turnbuckles
    - RPM A-Arms
    - etc .

    More to come!

  2. #2
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. MITCH316's Avatar
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    You off to a good start...nice one mate .

    Are you running MM2 in your truck??...as original MM is not waterproof and could fry the ESC very easily.
    Rock n Rolla !

  3. #3
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    Nice Start!
    I tried to order up the HPP hexs last night and after jumping though a million hoops the paypal didnt work because of issues on their processing and my bank declined the transaction on my credit card and flagged it as fraud so I had to call them to unlock my card. Nice hubs but not worth jumping through all the hoops to get.

  4. #4
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    Those look awesome.
    Make it idiot-proof and along comes a better idiot

  5. #5
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    @Craigm.mitch316
    Thank you . Nope bought the revo with the MM1
    Using a outerwears though, and when its wet outside I drive a little more careful

    Does the job pretty well, even after 45 min of plowing through the snow the controller was still dry.

    @JustinThyme,
    Thanks! Hm, thats odd, thought they were a trusted manufacturer. Ah well, won't be buying them for the next few months, other things first.

    @Zippogeek
    Thanks . Can't wait to have them made out of aluminum ^^
    Last edited by WesleyK; 02-12-2013 at 08:01 AM.

  6. #6
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    I thought they were too. Others have ordered with no problems. The Paypal faulted out on their part. When I hit pay with paypal it very quickly flashed to an error page, almost like that was linked immediately. The credit card thing is most likely because its a foreign vendor. Visa can be a real pain with flagging transactions and making me have to call them to get my card unlocked but Id rather that then the alternative.
    Last edited by ksb51rl; 08-02-2013 at 08:03 AM.

  7. #7
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    Quote Originally Posted by WesleyK View Post
    Can't wait to have them made out of aluminum ^^
    Dare I ask how much it costs to have a part custom machined like that? I have no clue...
    Make it idiot-proof and along comes a better idiot

  8. #8
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    The 3D printed parts were €45 for both the front and back. To machine these parts, I really don't have a clue. Normally I could give you and indication but this part is a little more complicated to guesstimate. But it doesn't really matter, as I will probably have these made for free .

    I will ask the shop what these parts would normally cost, if that helps you .

  9. #9
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    Quote Originally Posted by WesleyK View Post
    I will probably have these made for free . I will ask the shop what these parts would normally cost, if that helps you .
    Free is AWESOME! I was just curious, that's all. I see many talented guys on the forums who machine their own parts and I often wonder how much it would cost me to make parts for my E-Maxx. Like a titanium battering ram. Sadly, I have the mechanical aptitude of a walnut...
    Make it idiot-proof and along comes a better idiot

  10. #10
    RC Turnbuckle Jr.
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    The front t bone would be a good idea strength wise though spreads out the force of a front end impact. And you can always trim the bumper smaller
    Last edited by 50togo; 02-12-2013 at 10:41 PM.

  11. #11
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    So, i already shredded one of my tires last week. Glued it back into shape for now, but in the meanwhile i'm looking for new tires. Spend the last few days searching for the correct combo but it seems a little bit harder than i expected. I want to go for the badlands, as they are just a little big bigger than stock so a little less hard on the drive train than all those big tires out there. But for the wheels, i don't know which i should use. I think gluing is the best way to go, as beadlocks are heavy and the tire might come loose. So far i found three options:
    - Badlands + desperado rims. Perfect fit, can even be bought pre assembled, but as far as i know you really want to tape these tires. Traxxas bead, so these are a little smaller than 40 size if i am right?
    - Badlands + Rulux. Hard to glue, and the wheel is the wrong size?
    - Badlands + axial oversize 40 series. These are little bit bigger than the desperado's, but should work i guess? Like the look of these wheels .

    Should i go for the desperado, or the oversize wheels? Any pros and cons for both?

  12. #12
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    Double check that the badlands fits on the 40 series rims, I think the bead is different, I would consider the mashers they are pretty good on any surface.

  13. #13
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    Hm, so badlands only fits traxxas wheels and pro-line traxxas style wheels. So that means i will have to go with the Desperado rims if i want badlands. Like the look of both the wheels and tires, so this should be a good option.

    For the mashers, should i get the traxxas style bead? Then i also would need to use the desperado rims right? Or should i get the 3.2" versions(a little small)?

  14. #14
    RC Turnbuckle Jr.
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    Quote Originally Posted by WesleyK View Post
    Hm, so badlands only fits traxxas wheels and pro-line traxxas style wheels. So that means i will have to go with the Desperado rims if i want badlands. Like the look of both the wheels and tires, so this should be a good option.

    you can get summit wheels too, looks good with the badlands, but I don't like chrome wheels.

    For the mashers, should i get the traxxas style bead? Then i also would need to use the desperado rims right? Or should i get the 3.2" versions(a little small)?
    two options.
    1. Mashers 3.8 on desperado 1/2 offset (much better)
    2. Mashers 3.2 on maximizer (beadlocs= look great)

    get more ideas...http://traxxas.com/forums/showthread...-with-pictures

  15. #15
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    Thanks!

    Yep, read that thread like 3 times, but lots of old links and wheels. That together with all my others searches for the the right tire and wheel made it kinda difficult to decide hehe.

    One last question, aren't those mashers hard on the drivetrain? And, 1/2 offset, i like the added stability, but again, harder on the drivetrain/suspension and less protection by the wheels. Still not sure if i should go for offset or not. Anyways, thanks so far .
    Last edited by WesleyK; 02-18-2013 at 07:43 AM.

  16. #16
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    I have trenchers, and mashers, definitely mashers are lighter, 1/2 offset will provide a bit of extra stability.

  17. #17
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    1/2" offset on our rims are actually dead center in the middle of the rim. Not deep dish like.other offset rims

  18. #18
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    Received some goodies today

    Castle link field programmer:




    RPM front bumper mount for my custum front bumper:


    Fits very well

    Tomorrow i'm expecting to receive the HPP wheel hexes, Pro-line badlands and desperado rims with 1/2 offset. Need to be taped and glued, so i have some work to do

  19. #19
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    Mooooree goodies:



    Also some loctite 406 and 3M duct tape. I'm planning to get the carpet tape and use that for the first layer, and for the top layer i want to use the 3M, thoughts?

    Tomorrow i can collect the HPP hexes at my local post office, as i was not at home when they were at my house. Guess i have some work to do this weekend .

  20. #20
    RC Turnbuckle Jr.
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    I would use gorilla tape. You don't want too much weight in there

  21. #21
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    +1 to Gorilla tape...I tried a heap f different tapes with no success. I have never looked back after trying gorilla tape.
    Rock n Rolla !

  22. #22
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    I use gorilla tape as well it does not come off
    6S OR NOTHING............................ maybe 5s

  23. #23
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    So carpet tape is not a good alternative? I found quite some posts about using carpet tape. Anyways, ordered some gorilla tape, unfortunatly it will take some days to get here, so no gluing this weekend.

  24. #24
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    HPP hubs arrived .



    So did the PCBs


    Fits nicely


    Now i only need gorilla tape so i can assemble my wheels, and components so i can finish my led light

  25. #25
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    Assembled my wheels last weekend, with great succes, no ballooning at all thanks to the gorilla tape. First time i glued tires, and worked out quite well, spilled some here and there but nothing big.
    Result:

    Still with the old stock hubs

    Also got my HPP hubs, and got some grease + glue:

    So time to get the old hubs off and clean the axle(still needed some cleaning here):

    New hubs on, still need to remove the excess grease:


    And today we had the first sunny and warm day of the year in Holland, so time to try the new tires and hubs:






    New tires are great!
    Also did my first "big" jumps, but unfortunately i don't have pictures of them. I'm starting to really enjoy this car .

  26. #26
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    Looks good! I'm really starting to want some chrome rims.
    ERBE
    Savage Flux XL
    Trail finder 2

  27. #27
    RC Turnbuckle Jr.
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    Looks like a blast!

  28. #28
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. MITCH316's Avatar
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    Nice mate...enjoy
    Rock n Rolla !

  29. #29
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    Another great sunny day in Holland, and no school today, so more driving

    We also just got a dog, so time for them to get to know each other





    Both out of energy, and it seems the dog likes the badlands as a cushion hehe

  30. #30
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    Last sunday i was cleaning my Revo and checking some bearings. After removing the front skid plate i noticed something what seemed to be a crack in the front bulkhead. And yep, after disassembling i found out that my complete bulkhead had cracked. Don't know how it happened but a new front bulkhead is on the way...


    While I was busy disassembling the front bulkhead i figured i could check the whole rear section too, to inspect and clean everything. I noticed that my rear bulkhead was not lining up correctly, there seems to be a gap between the two parts. And i cannot push them together. Is this normal? I guess not. Also, how do you part the two halves, they are stuck together and I'm afraid of breaking them lol.


    Chassis is feeling very naked right now ^^:

  31. #31
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    That gap is normal
    6S OR NOTHING............................ maybe 5s

  32. #32
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    did you remove the bolt holding it together!

  33. #33
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    Doh, you're right, found the screw! That made things easier, lol. Rear diff seems to be in perfect state, not leaking at all. Cleaned everything up and will probably receive a new front bulkhead tomorrow. So with a little luck i can drive again this weekend .

  34. #34
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    I'm currently rebuilding my front diff. Filled it with 50W diff lube and waited a few hours for the bubbles to get out. But how far should i tighten the 4 bolts securing the ring gear onto the diff case? If i tighten them as i tighten all other screws it's almost impossible to rotate the 2 output gears. Should i back off the screws a little?

  35. #35
    RC Turnbuckle Jr.
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    the screws can be too tight or the gears will bind with the diff case.

  36. #36
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    I have now loosened the screws one turn from fully tightened, but when i use my allen tool in one of the output gears to turn the diff, the diffs turns smoothly but i can still feel the gears slightly, is that ok? Doesn't seem to help a lot when i loosen the screws further.

  37. #37
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. 87 GN's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by WesleyK View Post
    I'm currently rebuilding my front diff. Filled it with 50W diff lube and waited a few hours for the bubbles to get out. But how far should i tighten the 4 bolts securing the ring gear onto the diff case? If i tighten them as i tighten all other screws it's almost impossible to rotate the 2 output gears. Should i back off the screws a little?
    that is what it should be.....tighten the screws all the way up, just don't over tighten & strip the thread.

    what you are filling is the resistant of the 50k diff fluid.........all is good........
    Would you go flip my truck back over??

  38. #38
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    Even if i use an allen tool to turn the output shafts? Thats quite some forces at the shaft

    When i turn it by hand i can feel the resistance, but freely turn the diff with a little effort, still feel the gears though, but thats inevitable i guess. When i fully tighten down the screws i have to push quite hard while using an allen tool and it doesn't feel right
    Last edited by WesleyK; 03-17-2013 at 10:10 AM.

  39. #39
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    Hmm apparently the old metal washer was still on one of the output gears and i placed a new metal washer on the other gear on the other side. But i didnt notice the old metal washer was still on (on the ring gear side) so my gear mesh was tighter than it should be. Destroyed a blue rubber washer because of this. Ah well, had 2 spare rubber washers so the problem is now solved . I now have the screws 1/2 turn from tightened and the gear mesh feels smooth. Some lithium grease on the outer gears and should be good to go.

  40. #40
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    Rebuilding diffs is a bugger at times...glad to hear its all sorted.
    Rock n Rolla !

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