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  1. #1
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    Finally building a 4x4 Slash MT

    Well after having the experience of a 4x4 , the erbe, my kids really love the handling of a 4x4 truck.
    They both have a 2wd pede each but one of them we are going to be dismantled and use some part on this build and they will share it while one pede is also still functional.

    My hybrid project will be on hold.

    So this weekend we will work on building it, just have to go to the lhs get a SCT body and hopefully a stock motor mount while we are waiting for an FLM one to arrive (ordered)



    From the FLM pede, the power-strokes will be transferred to the slash as well as the mashers on desperado wheels..

    The traxxas steel yokes that I have had in storage for a while will be finally of use.
    At the rear we will put the rear cvd from the extended FLM if it fits and the front will run stock.
    As for the carriers the front will be stock for now (many in the box), and the rear will STRC from the pede.The C block is Hot racing that I had purchased accidentally a year back, now it comes in use too.

    The power horse, I have two options, either move the MMP3800 from the pede or put the Hobby Wing WP SC8 with a tacon 2600 that I have or the 4 pole Onyx 4550.

    An e-revo clutch will be in place as well as e-revo diffs (not sure what will be the effect of my ratio, will see).

    Will see how it runs on 3s and the lcg option later down the road
    For now I will be dying the chassis black with Dylon texture dye (powder), only 5.8g and it can dye at least two chassis, I will see if I can do the erbe at the same time.
    Last edited by Jezza; 06-06-2014 at 09:35 PM.
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  2. #2
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    The proline pro-trac arms really widen the stance of the MT converted slash, making it more like a jumbo pede. Just giving another option to consider. For constant 3s use look to that lower KV motor, especially with the big wheels on it. 2600kv 4pole geared 13/54 with 2.8s will have tons of power and run all day long. I look forward to seeing it come together.

  3. #3
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    Quote Originally Posted by LtZerge View Post
    The proline pro-trac arms really widen the stance of the MT converted slash, making it more like a jumbo pede. Just giving another option to consider. For constant 3s use look to that lower KV motor, especially with the big wheels on it. 2600kv 4pole geared 13/54 with 2.8s will have tons of power and run all day long. I look forward to seeing it come together.
    Thanks, I had the impression that the pro-trac were similar in length to the slash arms (the rear arms for 2wd pede), I must check out its specs.

    I just saw that the 4x4 kit were made not so lon ago. at 50$, not bad
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  4. #4
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    The Protrac arms widen the Slash by ~1/2 inch each side for a total 1" overall.

    Cool sounding project!

  5. #5
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    Quote Originally Posted by ViperZ View Post
    The Protrac arms widen the Slash by ~1/2 inch each side for a total 1" overall.

    Cool sounding project!
    Thanks,
    Hopefully I can make some justice to the paint job. I did one on a 2wd pede before but there was a lot of bleeding, I re-read your thread and saw that at some places you used newspapers too, I will probably add that extra protection after using the masking tape.
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  6. #6
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    Quote Originally Posted by Jezza View Post
    Thanks,
    Hopefully I can make some justice to the paint job. I did one on a 2wd pede before but there was a lot of bleeding, I re-read your thread and saw that at some places you used newspapers too, I will probably add that extra protection after using the masking tape.
    Most times I use the newspaper just to screen off the big sections to save masking tape. I use a small rubber squeegee (that came with an Ishield kit) and run it along all tape lines to ensure the tape is down to prevent bleeding. The back of your finger nail works well too.

    When you remove the tape, and there is bleed through, just take a wooden stick sharpened to a point, or a toothpick and you can scrape the bled through paint off. Even after a day of so the paint is still soft enough to scrape away a cleaner line than bleed through. No matter how much I rub or press down I still get bleeds and this is how I clean them up.

    I just did a model where the window masks were smaller than the decal trim on the outside. This really looked disastrous, however I was able to scrape the paint away to the decal line and you can't tell now

    Here is my thread about that:

    http://www.rctech.net/forum/13304697-post19.html

  7. #7
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    Quote Originally Posted by ViperZ View Post
    Most times I use the newspaper just to screen off the big sections to save masking tape. I use a small rubber squeegee (that came with an Ishield kit) and run it along all tape lines to ensure the tape is down to prevent bleeding. The back of your finger nail works well too.

    When you remove the tape, and there is bleed through, just take a wooden stick sharpened to a point, or a toothpick and you can scrape the bled through paint off. Even after a day of so the paint is still soft enough to scrape away a cleaner line than bleed through. No matter how much I rub or press down I still get bleeds and this is how I clean them up.

    I just did a model where the window masks were smaller than the decal trim on the outside. This really looked disastrous, however I was able to scrape the paint away to the decal line and you can't tell now

    Here is my thread about that:

    http://www.rctech.net/forum/13304697-post19.html
    Thanks for the tip, yup I can see it looks flawless after a good clean up.
    This was my first paint job, turned out alright in spite of the bleed, tried scraping it off with a hobby knife but I guess I will try and use that wood.

    I still have left over (lots) of the cans so I am going to go with predominantly silver and a bit of green instead of the one in that pic.

    Heading off to the lhs this afternoon to look at some sct bodies and motor mount as well as motor plate. I don't think the extra e-revo motor plate I have will work on the slash 4x4

    So before I headed off to the lhs, my kids and wife decided that I should not...they brought out the fathers day surprise and voila.
    I called up three lhs because I am missing a motor mount, they all did not have any, looks like I have to wait for next week or really try and see if a erevo one would work.



    Will start with the front and rear bulks today.

    So I did some parts of the project today.

    1. Dying the chassis, it turned out pretty well




    2. Assembled all the diffs, front and rear bulks



    3. Tried to assemble onto the chassis, Houston I have a problem. The rear is fine it fits perfectly onto the chassis.
    The front is a PROBLEM ????? it seems the 6830 front bulk that hold the crank steering is not correct, it looks like for the lcg chassis, the mounting hole does not match onto the chassis, but a bit further down and lower not touching the chassis???...there goes testing the truck tomorrow.

    I have also ordered the wrong battery hold (shorter, ,probably for the pede 4x4 and like wise for the rx waterproof box, which no big deal as I can improvise, but the front just want sit into the chassis....





    There goes my luck...cannot figure out what is this front for or the number as it was labelled 6830, got to contact the e-bay seller for this part.
    Last edited by cooleocool; 06-08-2014 at 04:55 PM. Reason: merge
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  8. #8
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    Quote Originally Posted by Jezza View Post
    So I did some parts of the project today.

    1. Dying the chassis, it turned out pretty well




    2. Assembled all the diffs, front and rear bulks



    3. Tried to assemble onto the chassis, Houston I have a problem. The rear is fine it fits perfectly onto the chassis.
    The front is a PROBLEM ????? it seems the 6830 front bulk that hold the crank steering is not correct, it looks like for the lcg chassis, the mounting hole does not match onto the chassis, but a bit further down and lower not touching the chassis???...there goes testing the truck tomorrow.

    I have also ordered the wrong battery hold (shorter, ,probably for the pede 4x4 and like wise for the rx waterproof box, which no big deal as I can improvise, but the front just want sit into the chassis....





    There goes my luck...cannot figure out what is this front for or the number as it was labelled 6830, got to contact the e-bay seller for this part.
    that is the lcg bulkhead, you will need the hcg one, part number: 6830. you will have to contact your ebay seller.

  9. #9
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    I thought I noticed that in the first picture. The next Slash 4x4 that you build could be the low center of gravity chassis. That way you can experience both platforms.
    Slash Ultimate, ET-3S, 2400, MIP, King Headz, RPM

  10. #10
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    Quote Originally Posted by El Sob View Post
    I thought I noticed that in the first picture. The next Slash 4x4 that you build could be the low center of gravity chassis. That way you can experience both platforms.
    Quote Originally Posted by traxxasvxlbasher View Post
    that is the lcg bulkhead, you will need the hcg one, part number: 6830. you will have to contact your ebay seller.
    Thanks guys, now that it is confirmed, so I will try and get the 6830 hopefully today at the future shop or best buy. I will keep this bulkhead though.

    In the mean time I will look around for the lcg, might as well order it.

    I have left over paint form my FLM build, so I am going to work on my theme for the body today, mostly silver and green. I might skip the orange this time.
    Last edited by Jezza; 06-08-2014 at 07:01 AM.
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  11. #11
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    Chassis looks great!
    Slash 4x4 LCG, Rusty VXL(not runnin), and my bike.

  12. #12
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    Quote Originally Posted by sean1214 View Post
    Chassis looks great!
    Thanks.

    So this is what I have done with the lexan traxxas 6822.
    I ran out of silver so the front has been made with the hues of three colours, giving a nice reflection and pearl look.
    Quite happy with it, dried out too fast so I could not scrape the bleed with wood in time , will do it after. Only two spots bled, very happy with the result.







    Last edited by Jezza; 06-08-2014 at 02:05 PM.
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  13. #13
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    looks great man!! you do it better than me tho... LOL i like it

  14. #14
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    Quote Originally Posted by traxxasvxlbasher View Post
    looks great man!! you do it better than me tho... LOL i like it
    Thanks man,

    Man I have seen so many threads on e-revo clutch on the slash, now that I am installing mine, I cannot seem to remember whose build had those, I am trying to figure out if there is any special modification or is it a direct fit.
    What is the pitch on the original 54t slash spur mod 0.8?? I bought is as a traxxas complete set 6878 but will move the extra e-revo clutch assembly I have onto to it.
    Last edited by Jezza; 06-08-2014 at 02:33 PM.
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  15. #15
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    they are 32 pitch

  16. #16
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    Quote Originally Posted by traxxasvxlbasher View Post
    they are 32 pitch
    Yeah I think I will use it for now as and keep the e-revo one as spare when it fails on me.
    Progress, replaced the bulkhead to the right one; 6830

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  17. #17
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    Well basically I came to a dead end.
    The traxxas metal yokes that I had in storage for over a year fit perfect on the rear output shaft (e-revo diffs), looks like I may have to drill the plastic yoke I have fror the front (6851x) in order to fit the output shafts and buy another metal one later on or go for the xo1 cvd on all fours.

    More pics


    Front


    Rear
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  18. #18
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    So I did get a hold of a motor plate and battery hold from a freind.
    I modified the home made rx box I had made for my FLM 2wd pede and fitted it into the slash (pictures of the drive train tommorow) and put the MMP 3800 in.

    Here are the pics of the truck ready to roll




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  19. #19
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    how much do the mashers balloon? is it comparable to the trenchers???

  20. #20
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    Unfortunately I have had trenchers yet, but I bought mine pre glue and they do not balloon as much as the talons.
    Plan to tape the inside at one point, but for now they are great; at the tracks , pavements, grass and gravel
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  21. #21
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    So I did my first drive test today and all I can say is WOW...different beast to the 2wd pedes.
    Even as a MT it handles very well at high speeds, cant wait to test it out on the track.
    The temps were great with outside been 23c (73.40 f), my ESC was only 93F and motor 122F on a full pack,lots of speed runs and man I wish I had a speedometer...its fast on 3s geared 12/54
    All in all very happy with the slash, very hesitant a while back, just great handling overall.
    This is with e-revo diffs, the front plastic yoke had to be widened to fit the shaft of the diff, how ever it held very well after the slight modification and trimmings I did.
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  22. #22
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    All I need now is the aluminum motor mount, drive shaft cover and trans cover.

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  23. #23
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    Looks great Jezza. Good work!

    You might next think about choosing one of the mods to plug off the driveshaft hole in the front of the chassis. All the HCG-chassis guys I've talked to say to get that plugged up before it collects debris. My buddy at work used adhesive velcro over the hole in the chassis, then poked a hole just big enough for the driveshaft to go through. So far, it's been working great and doesn't restrict rotation. Some guys use the tip of a sharpie pen too, lots of options.

    I'm sure your kids will love driving the new Slash!

  24. #24
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    Quote Originally Posted by OSU Beaver 99 View Post
    Looks great Jezza. Good work!

    You might next think about choosing one of the mods to plug off the driveshaft hole in the front of the chassis. All the HCG-chassis guys I've talked to say to get that plugged up before it collects debris. My buddy at work used adhesive velcro over the hole in the chassis, then poked a hole just big enough for the driveshaft to go through. So far, it's been working great and doesn't restrict rotation. Some guys use the tip of a sharpie pen too, lots of options.

    I'm sure your kids will love driving the new Slash!
    Thanks, I have not even noticed, will check it out and look into what to put into it.
    Oh yeah they have a blast , here is a small test drive

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  25. #25
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    awesome stuff... don't you feel like it could go through anything now... you might light like sway bars on that beast... helps a little on the rollover action with those massive tires i know it helped when i run my 2.8 trenchers...
    Last edited by MooGooLikeIDo; 06-12-2014 at 01:19 PM. Reason: i'm dumb

  26. #26
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    Quote Originally Posted by MooGooLikeIDo View Post
    awesome stuff... don't you feel like it could go through anything now... you might light like sway bars on that beast... helps a little on the rollover action with those massive tires i know it helped when i run my 2.8 trenchers...
    Yeah definitely like its handling, got to work on the steering. Not sure if its because of the tires; no binding on camber and turn buckles but it does not turn tight. In fact the turning radius is so large before I can get the truck around.

    Also when it flies off, the body touches the tires, going to trim the body a little bit.

    Thinking of getting the braces and sway bar for sure
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  27. #27
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    Ha, looks good running Jezza!

  28. #28
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    2 things I have found with this platform that reduce turning tightness. The spring on the 4x4 crank is a little weak, and the 2075 is also a little weak. The spring can be replaced with an emaxx spring(seen this mod in the x0-1 section), or you could put a thin spacer under the stock saver spring. I trimmed a white trx body washer to fit the first time, and on the second one I did, I found that sc10rs shock spacers were a perfect fit if you trim the little nub off, and can use the different thicknesses to tune how tight you want the saver to be.

    A higher torque servo than stock helps too, but will not do much to improve your turning circle until that saver spring is tightened up, or the spring upgraded to the emaxx one.

    I figured out these two fixes while racing my 2wd slash on my tight carpet oval. I could not get the truck to turn under power, even though I had great traction. After watching a vid that someone took of my car during the race, I could see that the ft wheels were only turning 1/2 of there travel under power around the turn, even though I was going full lock on the steering wheel. But when driving slower around the turns, the wheels would go full lock. Just about that time, the guys on the xo-1 forum were replacing the stock saver spring(same one as slash 4x4) with the emaxx one because the stock was too weak. You have to buy the entire steering setup for the maxx to get that spring, and hobbytown wanted 19 bucks. I was not paying that much to get just that spring, so I cut down a white body washer and put it under that spring, and BAM, the tires were turning much more under cornering load. 2 race days later, my 2075 fried(I then knew why traxxas made the spring that soft) popped in a savox 0251, and then I had more steering than I could use. So much that I had to reduce the end points on my radio to get through a race without constantly clipping the inside pipe on the oval. The stiffer spring and stronger servo made a huge difference in turning circle...
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  29. #29
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    Quote Originally Posted by ViperZ View Post
    Ha, looks good running Jezza!
    Thanks, a different feel to the 2wd pedes and erebe, very nice

    Quote Originally Posted by rag6 View Post
    2 things I have found with this platform that reduce turning tightness. The spring on the 4x4 crank is a little weak, and the 2075 is also a little weak. The spring can be replaced with an emaxx spring(seen this mod in the x0-1 section), or you could put a thin spacer under the stock saver spring. I trimmed a white trx body washer to fit the first time, and on the second one I did, I found that sc10rs shock spacers were a perfect fit if you trim the little nub off, and can use the different thicknesses to tune how tight you want the saver to be.

    A higher torque servo than stock helps too, but will not do much to improve your turning circle until that saver spring is tightened up, or the spring upgraded to the emaxx one.

    I figured out these two fixes while racing my 2wd slash on my tight carpet oval. I could not get the truck to turn under power, even though I had great traction. After watching a vid that someone took of my car during the race, I could see that the ft wheels were only turning 1/2 of there travel under power around the turn, even though I was going full lock on the steering wheel. But when driving slower around the turns, the wheels would go full lock. Just about that time, the guys on the xo-1 forum were replacing the stock saver spring(same one as slash 4x4) with the emaxx one because the stock was too weak. You have to buy the entire steering setup for the maxx to get that spring, and hobbytown wanted 19 bucks. I was not paying that much to get just that spring, so I cut down a white body washer and put it under that spring, and BAM, the tires were turning much more under cornering load. 2 race days later, my 2075 fried(I then knew why traxxas made the spring that soft) popped in a savox 0251, and then I had more steering than I could use. So much that I had to reduce the end points on my radio to get through a race without constantly clipping the inside pipe on the oval. The stiffer spring and stronger servo made a huge difference in turning circle...
    Great feed back, thanks. I will definitely do the body washer mod (have plenty of them) and looks like another servo , or stick the tactic65x into it and for my erbe leave two similar torque servos in there (right now running 2075 and a tactic55x, they seem to work harmoniously until now and turns great) or just get a savox, after all they are also great for the value.

    By the way is the e-maxx spring the same as e-revo, I got an extra from the roller I got
    Last edited by Jezza; 06-13-2014 at 06:27 AM.
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  30. #30
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    Small update.
    So with little time in between taking care of my 5 month old baby, I manage to have a bit of RC maintenance.
    Today I had installed the 4x4 pede shock guards and very happy with the result.
    Had to make my own spacers (out of 3mm rod ends that I had extra) and it was perfect after cutting it to size 0.79cm (5/16 in). Tomorrow I will be installing the original rx box and maybe install the hobby wing WP SC8 just to try it out and compare it with my MMP
    Next is to get a chassis brace and front aluminum carrier.



    The front view






    By the way from this above picture, how short did yo adjust the small arm that attaches to the servo and the bell crank.



    The rear view





    Last edited by Jezza; 06-18-2014 at 10:39 PM.
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  31. #31
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    So this is a small video of the steering.
    I definitely need to upgrade it, it handles differently when on track, I cannot get a good turn radius.
    Also can some one give me an insight of their arm set up (attached to the servo, short or long)
    I cannot finf my x duty spring so will try rag6's mod.


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  32. #32
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    A small video of the slash at a local track, a few shots of the jumps.

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  33. #33
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    Swap motor or Not???

    Hi every one.

    So basically i wanted your opinions. The slash with the MMP 3800 (4 pole) and a pede with Tacon 2600 motor (2 pole)
    Currently running 3s in both trucks. Geared 14/54 in the slash and 12/54 on the 2wd pede.

    Would you swap the 2600 into the slash, my concern is that will it still perform as good as a 4 pole 3800.

    Also would you swap the MMp to a Hobby Wing WP SC8 (have it as well but not yet tried it)

    I am currently running 3s as the 2s are on my erbe.
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  34. #34
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    So finally the steering has been re-adjusted, I shortened the arm again. Handling has drastically improved.
    Also put the clear centre shaft cover and motor mount cover.

    Very happy with the slash's handling

    Another happy camper and here is today's video (defintely got better turning and improved control as well as speed)
    geared 14/54

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  35. #35
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    Has this ever happened to you and how did you remove the wheel off.
    So my wheel locked itself in (hex pin probably got lost) and the high speed rotation managed to lock the wheel nut further in and I cannot get it out.
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  36. #36
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    Slowly is how it's coming off

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    Never seen this happen before, I don't have an answer but Jeremy Clarkson might....

    Slash 4x4 LCG, Rusty VXL(not runnin), and my bike.

  38. #38
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    Quote Originally Posted by Realsickclown View Post
    Slowly is how it's coming off
    Yup, only prob is that the diff might give in soon, the power distribution is so un balanced now.

    Quote Originally Posted by sean1214 View Post
    Never seen this happen before, I don't have an answer but Jeremy Clarkson might....

    I may have to go that route, pliers, screw drivers and the tool to unlock it just cannot get in....trying to pull it off, will see.
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  39. #39
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    Maybe put a heat gun to the wheel and see if you can finesse it around the wheel nut?
    Last edited by sean1214; 07-07-2014 at 11:26 PM.
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  40. #40
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    Looks like I may have to consider 17mm conversion and new wheels. Boil the one I have and use the tires. And get closed foams.
    I will have to pry off the wheel or hold it from the other side when dismantled and unscrew it from there
    Last edited by Jezza; 07-08-2014 at 04:29 PM.
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