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  1. #41
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    A little bit pricier but they definitely have them. I'm really sorry that I didn't think about the diffs I recommended not including the diff cups. http://www.ebay.com/itm/New-HPI-Vorz...item338ddd0886
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  2. #42
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    No big deal. Actually the other diff cups that you sent the link for would've been the same cost after the $12 shipping charge. I'm just glad that this guy on eBay put those on there because all the other sites that I searched were out of stock. So again, no big deal. It happens.

  3. #43
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    Quote Originally Posted by SLW-SVT View Post
    A little bit pricier but they definitely have them. I'm really sorry that I didn't think about the diffs I recommended not including the diff cups. http://www.ebay.com/itm/New-HPI-Vorz...item338ddd0886
    I received the diff cups and the dogbones for the Vorza diffs from the eBay seller that you pointed out. I have installed those diff cups and mounted the FLM hybrid bulks with the Vorza diffs and pinion cups. However, I now have another issue that maybe you can advise me on.

    1) The center dogbone driveshafts that came with the Vorza diff cups are too long. The Traxxas steel CVDs are too short. The dogbone driveshafts that came with the FLM chassis barely fit, but are slightly too long making them fit tight. When they spin in the cups, they don't spin smoothly at all. Any ideas?

    2) A second possible problem that I see is the 4 Traxxas steel axle driveshafts fit with the Vorza diffs, but it appears that the Traxxas steel axle driveshafts could be shorter than they should be. They do fit into the cups, but they are fitting right at the end of the cups. Not sure if that's going to be a problem.

  4. #44
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    I am not sure about the center shafts and chassis combo, but i might be able to help you with the traxxas steel shafts...

    did your flm bulks include an extra set of diff output shafts like the ones in the attached pic?

    http://www.fastlanemachine.net/prodd...LM18750&cat=15

    they are the little shafts with a flat on one end and two holes drilled through at the lower left in the picture.

    It's possible to gain better dog bone engagement into the diff cup by swapping those shafts into the diff (swaps in place of the diff cup) and then install the traxxas extended diff cups. If you didn't get the shafts, they are easily made by getting traxxas part number 5454 and cutting the threaded end off. then just install them into the diffs. the ended drive cup part number is 5153r. You would need two of each to get 4 in total. that should at least solve the axle problem and get you better steel driveshaft/drive cup engagement so that they don't separate when you are driving.

    I was also thinking that you might be able to gain a little clearance for the center dog bones/vorza pinion by getting some washers that will fit the screws that hold the trans to the chassis and space the trans off the chassis by one or two washers. this will increase the distance overall between the trans output shafts and vorza pinions and may give you just enough to allow for smooth turning. not sure if it will work, but worth a shot.

    more to read about the traxxas cvds:

    http://traxxas.com/pitpass/howto/new...ended-Wheelbas
    Last edited by rock-rod; 04-27-2014 at 08:01 AM.
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  5. #45
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    Rock-rod thank you for the reply. I will look into what you suggested for the axles and diff cups.

    Last night I did try raising the transmission by about 1/8". That didn't seem to work. I may go to the hardware store and get some longer screws to attach the transmission to the chassis and raise it a little more.

    One last option that I was thinking about was looking for dogbone driveshafts that are both a few mm shorter than the current driveshafts. How are the length of these measured? ie is it a total length or is it the length for the ears at one end to the ears at the other end?

  6. #46
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    I think the accepted way to measure is pin to pin in millimeters. You want to try and get the pins situated in the center of the cup if that makes any sense.

    http://scriptasylum.com/rc_speed/dogbones.html

    How long are the ones that came with the flm chassis?
    Last edited by rock-rod; 04-27-2014 at 10:22 AM.
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  7. #47
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    Quote Originally Posted by rock-rod View Post
    How long are the ones that came with the flm chassis?
    The longer of the 2 appears to be 108mm and the shorter of the 2 appears to be 67mm.

  8. #48
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    Are you able to measure the distance from cup centers?

    There are 106mm and 65mm dog bones available. The 2mm overall decrease in length might do the trick.
    Last edited by rock-rod; 04-28-2014 at 10:11 AM.
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  9. #49
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    Quote Originally Posted by rock-rod View Post
    Are you able to measure the distance from cup centers?

    There are 106mm and 65mm dog bones available. The 2mm overall decrease in length might do the trick.
    I don't see how I can measure the distance from cup centers. What I did do however, is I ordered a 100mm and 60 mm dogbones. Who knows, these may be too short, but I am guessing these will give me the right amount of length and leave enough play for them to work. I actually ordered them before your response, but I think I'll be fine. I hope they'll be fine, because these are the last 2 pieces that I am waiting for to try out the newly upgraded EMAXX, and I am pumped to get this thing running again.

    I took the truck to the Hobby shop yesterday for their help and they thought the truck looked pretty cool with all the FLM aluminum parts and the RPM A-Arms. I am a little surprised at how much heavier the truck is. I new it was going to gain weight. I wish I had weighed it before rebuilding the whole thing.

  10. #50
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    it's funny you mention the weight. yes, it does make the truck a good bit heavier. I was really tempted to add the chassis to my truck but decided I didn't want it to be so heavy.

    One trick to measure - take a piece of piano wire and trim it so that you can fit it in there. Take a sharpie and make a make on the drive cups roughly in the center, and then trim the piano wire so that it fits between those lines. When it does, you have your 'template' of the dog bone length.
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  11. #51
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    Ok, next question. Do you think that I need to do anything to the stock transmission or what do I need to do as far as the gearing to be able to run 6s?

  12. #52
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    the vorza diffs are geared quite a bit lower than the stock diffs so a larger pinion will be needed on the motor to restore your top speed. the stock trans itself is fine with 6s. I would leave it alone.
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  13. #53
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    Quote Originally Posted by rock-rod View Post
    a larger pinion will be needed on the motor to restore your top speed.
    Because I am new to all of this, are you referring to using the extra gear that came with my EMAXX?

  14. #54
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    I myself have been following many threads including these hybrids. Its my understanding when buying the ultimate, flm supplies you with a diff, I see many ppl changing to either an ofna, vorza, or lst2 diff. Would it hurt to use the supplied diff??

  15. #55
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    Well I have everything put back together and I just ran the truck for just a minute. I stopped because of an issue. When I throttle the truck I hear a noise like a gear is skipping. I don't think it is any gears though. I believe my Traxxas steel driveshafts, part# 5451R, are slipping in the Vorza diff cups. As you can see in the photos, they are barely touching the cups. How do I go about switching out the diff cups on the Vorza diffs? I am asking this because I do not see how to remove the diff cups.


  16. #56
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    Oh yes. I just had the exact same issue in my build but with Mugen diffs. You have to take the diffs apart to get the cups out. They are one piece all the way in. If you go back to post #22 in this thread you can use that method to install the trx cvd drive cups.
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  17. #57
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    Quote Originally Posted by SLW-SVT View Post
    Yes they will but you need to do some modifying. You will need these http://www.rc-monster.com/proddetail...f+output+shaft but they are not in stock.
    What part and part number is it that this link went to? I would like to google it.

  18. #58
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    Quote Originally Posted by Denverkas View Post
    Because I am new to all of this, are you referring to using the extra gear that came with my EMAXX?
    the pinion is the gear that goes on the motor shaft.
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  19. #59
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    Quote Originally Posted by Denverkas View Post
    What part and part number is it that this link went to? I would like to google it.
    those are out of stock. You can make your own by ordering traxxas part number 5454 (need two sets). Cut off the threaded portion and then disassemble the vorza diffs and remove the vorza diff cups. It's pretty straight forward but the idea is to replace the vorza diff cups with the modified traxxas stub axles. Once you do this, you can order a set of extended revo drive cups which are longer and will get the ball end further into a better engagement. The extended drive cup part number is traxxas 5153r (need two sets).
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  20. #60
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    Quote Originally Posted by rock-rod View Post
    those are out of stock. You can make your own by ordering traxxas part number 5454 (need two sets). Cut off the threaded portion and then disassemble the vorza diffs and remove the vorza diff cups. It's pretty straight forward but the idea is to replace the vorza diff cups with the modified traxxas stub axles. Once you do this, you can order a set of extended revo drive cups which are longer and will get the ball end further into a better engagement. The extended drive cup part number is traxxas 5153r (need two sets).
    I didn't know about the extended drive cups. I need to get those too.
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  21. #61
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    Make sure you use some shock snot or something like that on the rubber o rings inside the diff or you will spin diff fluid out
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  22. #62
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    Quote Originally Posted by SLW-SVT View Post
    I didn't know about the extended drive cups. I need to get those too.
    traxxas should just include the extended cups with the cvd kit they sell.

    how did it work out with the center dog bone. I assume you were able to find a set that fits?
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  23. #63
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    which build?
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  24. #64
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    Quote Originally Posted by SLW-SVT View Post
    which build?
    sorry i meant to quote denverkas. he was trying to solve the issue with his center shafts being to long.
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  25. #65
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    2 - 3S Batteries

    I found a 8x100mm, HPI item# 101357, off of eBay that fit well for the rear driveshaft. The rear one was the one that I had the most issue with.

    I have not found a replacement for the front driveshaft. But the front driveshaft that came with the FLM chassis, although has no play, it is not presenting a problem and doesn't seem to be tight. I do have a 6x60mm that is a great length, but the 6mm ends are too small.

    I am going to stick with the front shaft that came with the FLM chassis and use the 8x100mm shaft that I found on eBay.
    Last edited by Denverkas; 05-02-2014 at 10:28 PM.

  26. #66
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    I assume to take the diffs apart and remove the current cups, I need to unscrew the 4 screws in the gear, correct? I don't see any other way to possibly remove the diff cups.

    Secondly, SLW-SVT mentioned:
    Quote Originally Posted by SLW-SVT View Post
    Make sure you use some shock snot or something like that on the rubber o rings inside the diff or you will spin diff fluid out
    Is there a special fluid that I need to fill the diffs with?

  27. #67
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    You will need a much lower diff fluid in 1/8 scale diffs than 1/10. I usually use 5000 up front and 3000 in the rear. 7000 is the max I would put up front and 5000 in the rear.
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  28. #68
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    Quote Originally Posted by BuGgYbAsHeR.28 View Post
    I myself have been following many threads including these hybrids. Its my understanding when buying the ultimate, flm supplies you with a diff, I see many ppl changing to either an ofna, vorza, or lst2 diff. Would it hurt to use the supplied diff??
    Nope but they are not the best option and harder to find replacement parts for. I replaced mine because I broke a cross pin inside the case and it took forever to get the replacement from Hong Kong. I had the two vorza diffs from my vorza that was waiting on other parts so i put them in and they fit perfectly. I ordered another set and haven't looked back to the Castor Racing diffs that came with the Ultimate Hybrid Bulks
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  29. #69
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    Quote Originally Posted by SLW-SVT View Post
    Nope but they are not the best option and harder to find replacement parts for. I replaced mine because I broke a cross pin inside the case and it took forever to get the replacement from Hong Kong. I had the two vorza diffs from my vorza that was waiting on other parts so i put them in and they fit perfectly. I ordered another set and haven't looked back to the Castor Racing diffs that came with the Ultimate Hybrid Bulks
    Thanks, so in other words the vorza is the way to go? I've been looking at the ofna ones simply b.c I had a 1/8 nitro ofna and loved it. Those vorza diff's don't require special drive shafts at all? I have the flm chassis and traxxas cvd's as well.

  30. #70
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    Well the OFNA 6 and 8 spider diffs are definitely stronger. I just use vorza because they can be had for cheap and I've used them in several builds. You may have to use the method mentioned above in post #59 for the trx cvd's to work
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  31. #71
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    Ya I already have the ext. Drive cups, I used to have the lx 1 and those diffa can be found cheap so I didnt know if that would be good to use or the vorza is the best option for $$. Those spider 6 and 8 diff's are outrageous on a price lol

    I also prefer not to use those vorza diff's cause the gearing is so much lower
    Last edited by BuGgYbAsHeR.28; 05-03-2014 at 05:30 PM.

  32. #72
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    I see. I don't have to worry about the vorza gearing because I'm running straight center diffs with no tranny on both my trucks.
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  33. #73
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    Wow, so glad I found this thread. I have some FLM hybrid bulks I received last week that were supposed to be for the stock differential parts but I think they were mis-labeled and are actually hybrids meant for the 1/8 diffs. Thought about returning them but after reading all of this great advice I think I am going to take a shot at this same setup. The only difference is I've got the nitro version so my center shaft setup will be different but I believe I may have that solved.

    One question to SLW-SVT about the vorza diffs: the input shaft is 5mm right? If so I believe I'll need to purchase a yoke so I can connect my center CVDs to the diffs.

    Thanks everyone for making/contributing to a very useful thread.

  34. #74
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    Well I bought 2sets of the 5153R drive cups (4 total) and 2 sets of the 5454 stub axles (4 total). It turns out that before I opened those, I realized that I had 4 stub axles that came with some other parts. Not sure which parts they came with now, maybe the FLM Hybrid bulks. Anyway, I tried those in the diffs first, and they were long enough that I can now use the drive cups that came with the Traxxas steel CVDs.

    So, now I need to resell these 4 - 5153r's and the 4 - 5454's. Let me know if any of you are interested.

  35. #75
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    Quote Originally Posted by freddy_fo View Post
    Wow, so glad I found this thread. I have some FLM hybrid bulks I received last week that were supposed to be for the stock differential parts but I think they were mis-labeled and are actually hybrids meant for the 1/8 diffs. Thought about returning them but after reading all of this great advice I think I am going to take a shot at this same setup. The only difference is I've got the nitro version so my center shaft setup will be different but I believe I may have that solved.

    One question to SLW-SVT about the vorza diffs: the input shaft is 5mm right? If so I believe I'll need to purchase a yoke so I can connect my center CVDs to the diffs.

    Thanks everyone for making/contributing to a very useful thread.
    The vorza input shaft is 5mm. Rc monster used to make a yoke that was 5mm but I'm not sure if it's in stock anymore. You will need a 5mm to 6mm sleeve. I have not been able to find one though. You could switch to the tmaxx center cvd's and use a vorza drive cup instead of the cup that comes with the CVDs.
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  36. #76
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    Thanks. So I already have MIP cvds and they sell a 5mm end piece that I should be able to use as the yoke. I take it from what I can see that there is no hole in the shaft so I would have to use grubs as set screws rather than pins.

    Quote Originally Posted by Denverkas View Post
    Well I bought 2sets of the 5153R drive cups (4 total) and 2 sets of the 5454 stub axles (4 total). It turns out that before I opened those, I realized that I had 4 stub axles that came with some other parts. Not sure which parts they came with now, maybe the FLM Hybrid bulks. Anyway, I tried those in the diffs first, and they were long enough that I can now use the drive cups that came with the Traxxas steel CVDs.

    So, now I need to resell these 4 - 5153r's and the 4 - 5454's. Let me know if any of you are interested.
    I am interested. The bulks I got came with the combo hardware not the hybrid so I could use those shafts and cups. Once the threads are removed will they be identical to the ones that came with your kit? I have the same CVDs on my car so if they'd work on yours I believe I should get the same results.
    Last edited by cooleocool; 05-10-2014 at 01:43 PM. Reason: merge

  37. #77
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    Quote Originally Posted by freddy_fo View Post
    Once the threads are removed will they be identical to the ones that came with your kit?
    I am not at home right now, but I will be later tonight. At that time I will take a photo of them beside each other and post it so the you can see them. They are pretty much identical except for the ones that I bought separate have the threads that need to be cut off as described in earlier posts.

  38. #78
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    2 - 3S Batteries

    Quote Originally Posted by freddy_fo View Post
    Once the threads are removed will they be identical to the ones that came with your kit?
    Here is a picture of the ones that I used on my truck as opposed to part# 5454 that has the threads.



    As you can see, the only big difference is that part# 5454 has the threads. But also the holes on the ones that came with the bulks are slightly further apart, but only slightly. But that is a good thing because it helps extend the drive cups that came with the Traxxas steel CVDs as you will see in the below picture.


  39. #79
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    This is good to know. I haven't done the conversion over to the flm bulks yet. My Maxx has the extended drive cups with the stock diffs now but from the looks of it, they are not needed when using the flm axles.

    Question: what hinge pins did you use. I can see the lowers are the flm pins but how about the top ones? Did you use the Traxxas pins?
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  40. #80
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    Quote Originally Posted by rock-rod View Post
    Question: what hinge pins did you use. I can see the lowers are the flm pins but how about the top ones? Did you use the Traxxas pins?
    I used the upper hinge pins sold from FLM. The part number is FLM14600.
    Last edited by Denverkas; 05-11-2014 at 10:31 PM.

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