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  1. #1
    RC Racer
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    Did bulkheads break due to front skid plate snapping? Video with crash Included

    The crash did not look that bad,but actually the stick took out a skid plate,bulkhead and bent two arm pins..........any recommendations for upgrades ?




    Here is the damage






  2. #2
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    yup that's one of the weak parts, including the chassis. Part of the solution is going with aluminum bulks, and chassis brace.

  3. #3
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. Wolfslash16's Avatar
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    I'd personally go for the RPM bulkheads since their quite a bit cheaper...
    Sl2sh Slayer Summit Sl4sh Teton/Rally T-Maxx Pnde

  4. #4
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    Look for FLM bulkheads you can get them as stock replacements or you can get their Hybid bulkheads with 1/8 diff's both are made from billet 6061 T6 aluminum. Someday I plan on going with their Hybrid version with the 1/8 scale diff just need to get money to do it. I've heard people are very pleased with either version of the FLM'S oh and one more thing if you can find them Great Assembly has really strong stock replacement style bulkhead's made of 6061 T6 or even stronger 7075 T6 billet aluminum. Either one you'll be good to go.
    Last edited by BuiltFORDTuff; 04-07-2014 at 06:26 PM.

  5. #5
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    @Wolf..yes RPM are cheaper, but still not better than aluminum ones. Aluminum ones is a one time investment.

    @BuiltFord...I run the cheapest FLM bulks with losi diffs..it is a lot cheaper than the hybrids, and still bulletproof.
    Last edited by NFS; 04-07-2014 at 06:29 PM.

  6. #6
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. Wolfslash16's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by NFS View Post
    @Wolf..yes RPM are cheaper, but still not better than aluminum ones. Aluminum ones is a one time investment.

    @BuiltFord...I run the cheapest FLM bulks with losi diffs..it is a lot cheaper than the hybrids, and still bulletproof.

    For cost, you can't beat the RPM... What do you mean aluminum is a one time investment? Isn't it almost the opposite? RPM has a life time warranty if you some how did manage to break one, and the aluminum ones could bend... Just thinking out loud here.
    Sl2sh Slayer Summit Sl4sh Teton/Rally T-Maxx Pnde

  7. #7
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    I just bought a set of front blue rpm bulkheads and thinking about going with FLM skid plates.

  8. #8
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    Quote Originally Posted by Wolfslash16 View Post
    For cost, you can't beat the RPM... What do you mean aluminum is a one time investment? Isn't it almost the opposite? RPM has a life time warranty if you some how did manage to break one, and the aluminum ones could bend... Just thinking out loud here.
    FLM has lifetime warranty no matter what, RPM is lifetime under certain conditions...I have been running FLM for years, and still haven't bend one, and don't think they will. Can't say the same about the skid plates, but that's what they are made for. Anyway it is all personal preference.

    @Cky,,hope you have luck with them. please give us a feedback.
    Last edited by NFS; 04-07-2014 at 06:50 PM.

  9. #9
    RC Racer
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    Another thing that's important is I want to keep the weight down.i think flm bulkheads are great but I would say you need a flm chassis just because stock traxxas frame has plasticky mounting points and that would be just another thing to give ?

  10. #10
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    Quote Originally Posted by Cky View Post
    Another thing that's important is I want to keep the weight down.i think flm bulkheads are great but I would say you need a flm chassis just because stock traxxas frame has plasticky mounting points and that would be just another thing to give ?
    You are totally right, you will end replacing the chassis, shocks towers, shocks, driveshafts, diffs....just like I did..LOL, but I love my truck it is a beast.

  11. #11
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    CKY, A full FLM Maxx truck isn't that much heavier then an all plastic build look on YouTube for a video called All Aluminum vs Plastic Maxx- Weight Comparison to Stock Weight By: Squirrelod. NFS, are you running the LST diff' s with yours.

  12. #12
    RC Racer
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    No using stock traxxas shimmed diffs and traxxas steel driveshafts.

  13. #13
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    Quote Originally Posted by BuiltFORDTuff View Post
    NFS, are you running the LST diff' s with yours.
    yup, that's exactly what I have.


  14. #14
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    NFS, your lucky that looks very nice. I've looked on eBay for those complete LST diff's with no luck. Now it looks like the only way to get the LST diff's is from building them piece by piece.

  15. #15
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    I just finished the lst2 diff swap in my ERBE and now it's time to do the same for my emaxx brushless. You can source all of the lst2 diff parts from eBay and build them yourself. I am going to use the rpm bulks that I already have. I used summit axles on the ERBE but I am going to use the Traxxas cvds with extended cups on the Maxx. Tired of blowing diffs. The Maxx conversion looks a lot easier than the revo with no lost strength from grinding the bulks to fit the larger lst2 diff.
    Revo LRP 30x
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  16. #16
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    One of these would be good for starters. Then some alum chassis braces to hold them together. And alum bulks.
    http://www.ebay.com/itm/TITANIUM-SKI...item461d7db4cc

  17. #17
    RC Racer
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    Just went with flm front and rear skid plates.cant beat 30$

  18. #18
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    Well, that's better than plastic skids but one crash and there bent. Titanium skids is the way to go imo.

  19. #19
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    Quote Originally Posted by Cky View Post
    Just went with flm front and rear skid plates.cant beat 30$
    that's good, you can get some RPM skids too they are great.

    http://www.amain.com/product_info.ph...FY3m7AodhXcAJQ
    Last edited by NFS; 04-08-2014 at 10:55 AM.

  20. #20
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    Just bought the rpm skid plates and a set of new screws.

  21. #21
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    I have run flm bulks on the rear of my truck and rpm on the fronts. I like the rpm a little more I like the but to lock everything together. And yes the rpm will take the abuse I hit a curb at about 40 mph and only broke the chassis

  22. #22
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    I’ve yet to run my truck yet, but so far i am impressed with the flm skid plates and shock towers. I’ve used their stuff before on a 2wd stampede build i did. But so far so good.
    Man i need more than 50 characters.

  23. #23
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    Got the front bulks from rpm today after disassembling the truck I noticed the diff was never shimed and has a good amount of play.I can't belive I only needed one shim inside the diff and 7 outside...





    I had to use 7 shims to eliminate the play and keep the bearing from lifting up.


  24. #24
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    Now I find this.blown bearing and a non shimed diff that's on its last leg.



    I was planing on just shiming the rear diff and call it a day,but as always it's too far gone.the teeth are chipped and there is a lot small metal bits inside the diff.i really think if the diff was shimmed this would never happen.


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