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  1. #1
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    Hello, new to the forum

    I have been stalking the forum for a while in planning on getting an E-Revo. I went ahead and got one today! Should be here by the end of the week.

    I have to say that poking around the forum today left me little overwhelmed! I figure I will just get it and then start tinkering with it but there is a lot of info/mods out there for these things!

    I just bought the y adapter and a second battery and figure thats a good start but what does anyone think are good second and third upgrades? Is there any "musts" that I should do right away (like springs and clutch stuff)? I have read so much on here over the past year that I honestly dont know where to start!

    Any help would be appreciated!

  2. #2
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. Jimmie Neutron's Avatar
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    Which adapter did you buy? The parallel or the series?

    Step 1 for me was to shim the diffs... I ordered the shims right along with the RC. Some need them straight away, some don't. If it does and you don't, it will cost you a ring and pinion plus the shims next time around. In my opinion, they all could use shims after a few packs and they are broke in.

    After that...

    This is what I had when I very rarely walked away broke.

    Steel hollow balls (7028x) to reduce slop
    3M mushroom tape along battery doors to hold the body on
    Aluminum knuckles to reduce slop and add strength (I had HR but GPM or GH are good too)
    A BlueBird 390 servo due to the stock being known to fry/strip itself
    RPM a arms at all four corners (Front-80692, Rear-80602)
    Center differential (7014) upgrade to help handle the power of
    2200mah 2S 20C LiPo's ran in parallel for ~1 hour run times
    23/50 gearing gets me to ~30mph yet keeps temps in check
    Shimmed front and rear bulkheads... *LINK*

    Especially do that last part... extremely cheap preventative procedure.
    Whatever it is I just said... I could be wrong.

  3. #3
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    Also I recon the T-Bone skid plate is worth it's weight in gold. It will save you heaps. I always use it, always.

    [IMG][/IMG]
    1/16 EREVO, 1/10 SUMMIT

  4. #4
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    Quote Originally Posted by Jimmie Neutron View Post
    Which adapter did you buy? The parallel or the series?

    Step 1 for me was to shim the diffs... I ordered the shims right along with the RC. Some need them straight away, some don't. If it does and you don't, it will cost you a ring and pinion plus the shims next time around. In my opinion, they all could use shims after a few packs and they are broke in.

    After that...

    This is what I had when I very rarely walked away broke.

    Steel hollow balls (7028x) to reduce slop
    3M mushroom tape along battery doors to hold the body on
    Aluminum knuckles to reduce slop and add strength (I had HR but GPM or GH are good too)
    A BlueBird 390 servo due to the stock being known to fry/strip itself
    RPM a arms at all four corners (Front-80692, Rear-80602)
    Center differential (7014) upgrade to help handle the power of
    2200mah 2S 20C LiPo's ran in parallel for ~1 hour run times
    23/50 gearing gets me to ~30mph yet keeps temps in check
    Shimmed front and rear bulkheads... *LINK*

    Especially do that last part... extremely cheap preventative procedure.
    Yes! Great info man. I ordered the parallel adapter. I think its obvious what the differences are but what is the difference? Which is better? Thank you.

    Quote Originally Posted by Beaz View Post
    Also I recon the T-Bone skid plate is worth it's weight in gold. It will save you heaps. I always use it, always.
    I was eyeballing this skid plate on ebay. It looks like it doubles as a wheelie bar as well?

    I got crazy yesterday and ordered a wire protection kit... Not because I want to protect the wires but because it looks cool

    http://www.ebay.com/itm/181273702215...84.m1423.l2649
    Last edited by cooleocool; 03-31-2014 at 05:15 PM. Reason: merge

  5. #5
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    That braid is for 1/10th scale - not the 1/16th - so it will be a little wider than you need. Hope you can solder cause you will need to unsolder the ESC connector, put the braid on and resolder.

    You can buy the correct size braid online - enough for several cars for about $3. It does look cool though!
    Last edited by bbking9; 03-31-2014 at 09:55 AM.

  6. #6
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    I am also pretty new. I bought my son a Merv 2 weeks ago. The first run he crashed it and broke the chassis in two, so had to assemble on a new chassis, but gave me a chance to learn a bit.

    I have since installed the following:
    - Center Diff (makes it easier to handle, it does less wheeleys, I use 50K oil).
    - thicker schock oil and Summit shock springs
    - Lipo batteries & a parallel battery connector (longer run time)
    - Body clip retainers (saves you losing the clips)
    - Motor cooling fan
    - A 20mm x 20mm pc cooling fan attached to the esc

    I have ordered a tbone chassis skid plate in case my son runs it into a wall again at full speed

    I am considering getting bigger wheels, but after a few runs I am think it's not necessary. My son mainly uses it in the park on soccer fields and the stock wheels and my suspension setup are fine.

    Very pleased, it's great fun.

  7. #7
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. Jimmie Neutron's Avatar
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    Series: Doubles voltage, doubles speed, increases temps, makes it harder to handle which in turn breaks more parts along with the extra power breaking more parts.

    Parallel: Doubles run time, doubles available amps (good), may increase temps due to heat build up because of the longer run time.
    Whatever it is I just said... I could be wrong.

  8. #8
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    What is the difference? Which is better?
    Here is a good description

    http://traxxas.com/support/Dual-Batteries-116-Models

    Quote Originally Posted by bbking9 View Post
    That braid is for 1/10th scale - not the 1/16th - so it will be a little wider than you need. Hope you can solder cause you will need to unsolder the ESC connector, put the braid on and resolder.

    You can buy the correct size braid online - enough for several cars for about $3. It does look cool though!
    Ha! I did realize that I need to pay extra attention when ordering stuff and make sure its for the 1/16

    Thanks for the heads up!

    Quote Originally Posted by Jimmie Neutron View Post
    Series: Doubles voltage, doubles speed, increases temps, makes it harder to handle which in turn breaks more parts along with the extra power breaking more parts.

    Parallel: Doubles run time, doubles available amps (good), may increase temps due to heat build up because of the longer run time.
    I will probably just stick with the Parallel for now and then maybe get the series down the road.
    Last edited by cooleocool; 03-31-2014 at 05:14 PM. Reason: merge

  9. #9
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    Quote Originally Posted by Ezzzzy View Post
    I was eyeballing this skid plate on ebay. It looks like it doubles as a wheelie bar as well?
    It can, but you can get a wheelie bar from T-Bone too!
    1/16 EREVO, 1/10 SUMMIT

  10. #10
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    Hello everyone. Im also new here and have been reading the forum for some time now as well, the only difference is that I have had the merv for about a year now. These are the upgrades I've made.

    -RPM upper and lower a arms
    -Traxxas aluminum push rods (7118X)
    -Traxxas aluminum toe links (7138X)
    -T-bone skid plate with front and rear bumper (bought it after breaking the chassis)
    -SPC lipos batteries and tranxxas changer (probably the most expensive updates but its worth it IMO, power is really consistent until the very end, and it gives a better acceleration)

    Those Id consider my basics but after being here I've learned many things
    so i got a few additional parts...

    -new tires and wheels(made a huge handling improvement for me)
    -bluebird servo(gears of the stock kept breaking with new wheels)
    -steel hollow balls (7028X)
    -HR aluminum knuckles
    -gtr shocks (7061X)
    -Stronger springs
    -Heavier shock oil

    Waiting for shims for the differential

    Since getting to the differentials seems to be so tedious
    I decided to get the remaining parts where its involved, to avoid
    breaking the car apart for every future upgrades.
    -Traxxas steel driveshafts (7151X)
    -Traxxas cvds (7250R)

    Hopefully after this I'll be able to spend more time driving and less time fixing/replacing parts.

    I would like to thank everyone here, I've learned a lot, you guys are very informative and
    supportive.
    Last edited by jcf; 03-31-2014 at 04:57 PM. Reason: Grammar

  11. #11
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    Quote Originally Posted by Beaz View Post
    It can, but you can get a wheelie bar from T-Bone too!
    I just ordered the chassis brace. The couple of comments about them snapping helped make up my mind!

    I too appreciate the help. Sometimes on forums when the n00bs pip up with general questions that have already been answered people get feisty. I search for stuff before I ask but for whatever reason my brain is on overload with all the things available for these.

    Thanks everyone!
    Last edited by cooleocool; 04-01-2014 at 08:38 AM. Reason: merge

  12. #12
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    My new little toy showed up a few days ago. I went back and forth with buying a new one or getting a used one and ended up scoring a used one on Ebay for a great price. Supposedly it had only been used for two battery cycles, which I kinda doubt but it is in great shape.

    Either way. The range is not what my neighbor gets so I decided to open the receiver box up and make sure all was well with the antenna. Antenna looks good but there was something that stood out to me and im wondering if anyone has seen enough of these to give me a little direction.

    When I opened the case up the receiver was just floating around inside of it. I could see the residue from double sided tape still on the chassis but there is none on the receiver? You know when you pull something apart that has double sided tape on it, usually some stays on one part and some stays on the other? Well there wasnt any on the receiver and it didnt even look like any had ever been. So, what im saying is that it looks like someone removed the original receiver and replaced it but left the double sided tape on the chassis. If that makes sense.

    What my question is, are the receivers taped down from the factory and can anyone tell me if this is the correct one? I poked around the net but couldnt really find any images of the receiver inside the car without the case over it.

    I will attach a picture.

    Thanks for any help!



    Last edited by Ezzzzy; 04-03-2014 at 07:43 PM.

  13. #13
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    That is the correct recvr. Looks like it has been taken out before becuase there should be double sided tape left on either the recvr or in the recvr box. Just put some more on it and go.

    Cant really see the antenna cause your big mitts (ha ha) are in the way.

  14. #14
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    Antenna looks factory and it doesnt look like the case has been tampered with.

  15. #15
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    Tape er down and you should be good to go.

  16. #16
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    I just messaged him and he confirmed that he replaced it. I guess that I dont have a problem with it being replaced (other than he didnt mention it when selling, and that it wasnt tapped back down) but im only getting about 100ft in range. My neighbors is getting 300-400+!

    Whats average for range?

  17. #17
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. Jimmie Neutron's Avatar
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    Do you have the single red button remote?
    If so, that one is known to have range problems for some, while others have no issues.
    Whatever it is I just said... I could be wrong.

  18. #18
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    Yeah, that matches the description of my remote. That would suck to only get 100ft of range!

    Hmmm...

  19. #19
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. Jimmie Neutron's Avatar
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    The two buttons sell for $45-50 on eBay...
    or you can go Fly Sky like I did for about the same.

    I have the GT3B, but the newer GT3C has a few features that are nicer... and if you ever feel the need to flash the radio OverkillRC sells a kit for $30 that will give it features of $200-300 systems plus up to 8 channels!

    Range is out of sight... even for my 8th scale RC's.
    Whatever it is I just said... I could be wrong.

  20. #20
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    I got a brand new GT3C with 2 recvrs for $50 shipped on another forum. Nice radio so far.

    On your radio - make sure the end of the antenna is above the body line. May help.

  21. #21
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    Thanks guys. I think the moral of this story is that I should have bought new It came with two batteries and one of them is shot and the other one is week.

    Lesson learned.

  22. #22
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    So long story short, Ebay let me return the car to the guy that I bought it from. A few days later it showed back up at my house with a label that said no one lived at the address provided for return, so I called Ebay. They told me that the car was mine and they refunded me the purchase price + shipping! Now I have a free car!

    Now I think I will be looking into the fly sky remotes. Is it as simple as just adding the receiver to the system and plugging everything into it?

    I was thinking about getting an all metal servo and was wondering what anyone thought of this price point one?
    http://www.ebay.com/itm/310885232463...84.m1497.l2649

    Thanks all!

  23. #23
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. Jimmie Neutron's Avatar
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    Switching to another remote is pretty easy... unplug, plug, calibrate, done!

    The Corona you linked to is a $8-10 servo elsewhere... some have had no issues, while others had immediate failures.
    Whatever it is I just said... I could be wrong.

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