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  1. #1
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    New esc cogging very bad?? and no reverse...

    I have the stock motor and replaced my esc with a sv3 becuz of the cogging I would get on full throttle so u thought my esc was bad anyways I jnstalled the sv3 and I did the start up procedure but my reverse doesnt work and foward wont go anywhere it just twitches like its cogging very bad. It wont even spin the tires if I pick it up??

  2. #2
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    Is the drivetrain binding?
    1:16 Slash VXL
    Stampede 4x4 3800kv
    Rustler VXL

  3. #3
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. Jimmie Neutron's Avatar
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    Has the motor ever been overheated?
    Whatever it is I just said... I could be wrong.

  4. #4
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    Well I believe it over heated it was cogging alot so I thought my esc was bad. It worked but if I gave it full throttle it would jitter than if I gave it a push start it would run fine. But from a dead stop it seemed like it could nt handle the current drop. I did drop the motor today in the garage idk if that damaged it??

  5. #5
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    No binding it was running fine for a bit so idk if I didnt program esc correct? Its a brand new sidewinder v3

  6. #6
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. Jimmie Neutron's Avatar
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    Overheating damaged the magnets within the motor... sounds like that was the problem, the overheating, and not the ESC.
    Whatever it is I just said... I could be wrong.

  7. #7
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    I have a tekin motor that overheated and does this. I measured the temp at 265. I don't think that motor could even move a merv anymore.
    1:16 Slash VXL
    Stampede 4x4 3800kv
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  8. #8
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    Overheated magnets would hardly cause cogging, the motor would just loose power. Cogging usually means that one wire is broken or connector has bad contact

  9. #9
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. Jimmie Neutron's Avatar
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    It is very possible that over heated magnets could cause cogging.
    Whatever it is I just said... I could be wrong.

  10. #10
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    Well is would cog only from a complete stop. So it would still run just cog from a dead stop so I got a new esc and its not even like it was I have no reverse and it wont even go forward ill have to check my connections...

  11. #11
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    so i found that the wires had a coating on them and was not conducting at all... so i ran a wire brush thru it and not i have continuity

  12. #12
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. Jimmie Neutron's Avatar
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    Stiff motor wires are a part of the winding. They should not be cut and then soldered or modified in any way. This will disrupt how they function... and they are supposed to have this protective coating on them.

    Changing connectors is done by de-soldering and then resoldering them.

    Most of the time a new V380 is available on eBay for about $30.
    Whatever it is I just said... I could be wrong.

  13. #13
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    Epoxy coated wires are a huge pain to solder. They use them in headphones which I repair. You have to remove the coating before they will take solder.
    All those who believe psychokinesis raise my hand

  14. #14
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    Quote Originally Posted by Jimmie Neutron View Post
    Stiff motor wires are a part of the winding. They should not be cut and then soldered or modified in any way. This will disrupt how they function... and they are supposed to have this protective coating on them.

    Changing connectors is done by de-soldering and then resoldering them.

    Most of the time a new V380 is available on eBay for about $30.


    I'm an electrical technician where I work and I'm aware of how to change connectors but problem was the wire broke that's whys its much shorter than the rest.. the other 2 leads were tinned and I de-soldered those. Ive just never seen a bare wire not have continuity... now that I know whats going on I hope later today when I test it its fine. Ill let you guys know

  15. #15
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    I'm just trying to get the most out of the motor before I go and buy a new one...

  16. #16
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. Jimmie Neutron's Avatar
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    Good to know that you have some knowledge of what you are dealing with.


    I wonder if the other two should be shortened as much as the one that broke... if timing is effected.
    Whatever it is I just said... I could be wrong.

  17. #17
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    ...as I said

  18. #18
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    Quote Originally Posted by mtc777 View Post
    ...as I said
    Give yourself a pat on the back!

    Quote Originally Posted by Jimmie Neutron View Post
    Good to know that you have some knowledge of what you are dealing with.


    I wonder if the other two should be shortened as much as the one that broke... if timing is effected.
    idk about that?? I think ill shorten the other 2 leads up just so there at least the same length..
    Last edited by cooleocool; 03-31-2014 at 05:15 PM. Reason: merge

  19. #19
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    Quote Originally Posted by merv1k View Post
    idk about that?? I think ill shorten the other 2 leads up just so there at least the same length..
    I wouldn't shorten them. The difference in timing will be near immeasurable.
    All those who believe psychokinesis raise my hand

  20. #20
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    Quote Originally Posted by merv1k View Post
    Give yourself a pat on the back!
    I just did....twice

  21. #21
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    Quote Originally Posted by Buzzforbrains View Post
    I wouldn't shorten them. The difference in timing will be near immeasurable.
    That's what I thought but since I was having issues with continuity I want to make sure the connection is solid so I want to clean off the epoxy and re-crimp a butt splice connector on it and i think it should work with no issues.. Ill let you guys know tmrw morning how it went.

  22. #22
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    Quote Originally Posted by Buzzforbrains View Post
    I wouldn't shorten them. The difference in timing will be near immeasurable.
    But you can shorten the wires of the ESC, right ?
    Now please explain the logic behind that.

  23. #23
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    So it worked out I have no cogging but still no reverse.. Ill have to make sure my settings are correct...

  24. #24
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    Quote Originally Posted by mtc777 View Post
    But you can shorten the wires of the ESC, right ?
    Now please explain the logic behind that.
    Sure, you can shorten any of them if you want. But having one wire 1" longer will not throw off the timing. The time it takes the signal through 1" less or more of wire is near immeasurable.
    All those who believe psychokinesis raise my hand

  25. #25
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    Quote Originally Posted by Buzzforbrains View Post
    Sure, you can shorten any of them if you want. But having one wire 1" longer will not throw off the timing. The time it takes the signal through 1" less or more of wire is near immeasurable.
    Its measurable just need a meter that can read in mili to ohms.
    Last edited by cooleocool; 04-02-2014 at 09:10 AM. Reason: Language filter was tripped.

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