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  1. #1
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. rag6's Avatar
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    Sticky ball cups...

    Took my servo out. Noticed their is an unhealthy amount of "stick" to the front steering. Also noticed that when I took the ft shocks off, and let the front suspension arms drop, they wouldn't. Everything up front felt too tight. Took the rear shocks off and let the suspension drop, and they dropped nice and free like they are supposed to. So I got sticky balls and cups up front. I have not dealt with ball cups since the 80's...

    Anyone have any ideas on how to free up my balls and cups?

    The steering stickyness could be that the rack screws are tightened down too much, or more sticky ball cups. There is so much drag that I think it could overwork the servo, and could be why a few have had burnt up servos... I will dig deeper into that soon...

    Just a heads up to everyone to check these areas...
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  2. #2
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. Wolfslash16's Avatar
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    I noticed that in my Teton too, I just lightly used an emery cloth on the ball stubs, made the binding go away. Good luck, hope this helps!
    Sl2sh Slayer Summit Sl4sh Teton/Rally T-Maxx Pnde

  3. #3
    RC Racer
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    Sucks that your servo was busted, the 2065 is pretty fragile and it's always the one gear that looses one tooth.
    Perhaps I missed it, but I haven't heard of any other busted servos. The saver is pretty loose, is your working ok?

    As far as suspension binding, are you sure it's the cups?
    I've found that the pins in the drive shafts are pretty free and like to bind on the out drive rings.
    Steering, check the rack and hubs separately. The kingpins can be over tightened and they'll bind there.

  4. #4
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. rag6's Avatar
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    The saver is pretty loose, is your working ok?
    No. its binding very badly.
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  5. #5
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. rag6's Avatar
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    dug into it a couple of min ago. The 2 screws that lock down the upper plate right next to the belcrank pins were very tight. Backed the screws off about a 1/4 of a turn and it loosened right up so the rack is good now. Every ball cup in the front end feels like they are a size too small and are very, very tight. I will try wolf's emery cloth as soon as I can pick some up.

    The suspension arms pins, and hubs/c-blocks are smooth and free. Its def the cups/balls.

    I would suggest that all teton owners pull this stuff apart and check it out. It will make a big difference in how the teton performs, and may hep with durability as well.

    My front diff feels tighter than my rear. Kinda like the way my revo feels with 50k in back and 100k in front. Are the diffs sealed or are these grease only diffs?
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  6. #6
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. Wolfslash16's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by rag6 View Post
    dug into it a couple of min ago. The 2 screws that lock down the upper plate right next to the belcrank pins were very tight. Backed the screws off about a 1/4 of a turn and it loosened right up so the rack is good now. Every ball cup in the front end feels like they are a size too small and are very, very tight. I will try wolf's emery cloth as soon as I can pick some up.

    The suspension arms pins, and hubs/c-blocks are smooth and free. Its def the cups/balls.

    I would suggest that all teton owners pull this stuff apart and check it out. It will make a big difference in how the teton performs, and may hep with durability as well.

    My front diff feels tighter than my rear. Kinda like the way my revo feels with 50k in back and 100k in front. Are the diffs sealed or are these grease only diffs?
    Glad you figured it out! I'd rather have things too tight, than too loose. Let us know how things turn out.
    Sl2sh Slayer Summit Sl4sh Teton/Rally T-Maxx Pnde

  7. #7
    RC Competitor
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    That's weird my front shock is broken and the arms droop...

  8. #8
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. rag6's Avatar
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    I cant win.

    Be careful with the silver ball studs that screw into the bulkheads. Just got done polishing all the black balls(silver balls did not need it, they were swinging freely), and was installing the rt rear camber link. Went to pop the inner cup onto the silver ball first and the threads of that inner ball broke off inside the bulkhead. AARRGH! I must have put a side load on it to snap it like that. Guess the silver balls are made of a different metal, because I have put way more pressure on the black balls to install the links. Now I need a new bulkhead as there is no way to get that tiny piece out. I still cant drive my teton for another week or so.

    I would suggest to snap the carrier side ball cup onto the black ball first, then snap the bulkhead side cup onto the silver ball. This way everything will be more aligned and you will have a better chance of avoiding what I did.

    Those silver balls have a spacer built into the bottom to make them taller(must be a roll center thing) than the black balls. I may install the black balls and live with the suspension tweak, or find a 1mm or so spacer as I think the silver balls are made of a weaker material. GEEZ! AAAARRGH! Sigh...
    Last edited by rag6; 03-27-2014 at 09:35 AM.
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  9. #9
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. rag6's Avatar
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    To Hades with it, I am gonna buy another Teton. I am tired of not driving this one...
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