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  1. #1
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    $1200+ Rustler Build

    Oh right. I've been in the forums here for a long time and always enjoy following the build threads. So I guess it is my time to share my build.

    I only work in my RC's during the weekends so it may take a while to update the forum here.

    I have bought my first electric rustler aprox 6 year ago. Since then I bought at least 4 or 5 Rustler VXL that I ended up putting some upgrades and later selling (so I can move to my next project). Currently I have a fairly upgraded Rustler and a roller. I decided to go all out with new parts and use some few parts I have in one of my other trucks and build the ultimate Rustler.

    Here is the list of what I got so far:

    - FLM Chassis (std not the extended) - $60
    - FLM Transmission Case - $56
    - FLM Upper Chassis - $31
    - STRC Front Shock Tower - $19
    - STRC Rear Shock Tower - $22
    - STRC Bulkhead - $22
    - MMP ESC + 4600kV Motor - $196
    - SAVOX Servo 1258TG - $71
    - AKA 17mm adapters - $36
    - DX3S Rx/Tx - $200 (will soon upgrade to the DX4S to test how the AVC work)
    - GRP tires - $49
    - Traxxas Al Belcrank - $30
    - Traxxas Rear Al Carrier - $27
    - Traxxas Turnbuckle / Steering link - $17
    - Traxxas Camber Turnbuckle - $11
    - Traxxas Wheelie bar - $10
    - Traxxas Al wheelie bar rim + rubber tires - $19
    - Traxxas Al Caster Block - $17
    - Traxxas Al Steering Block - $25
    - Traxxas Big Bore Shocks - $56
    - Traxxas Custom ProGraphix body - $40
    - Boca Bearings Ceramic yellow seal kit - $80
    - RCScrewZ SS hardware kit - $28
    - RPM Gear Cover - $6
    - RPM Wide Bumper - $6
    - RPM A-Arm front - $10
    - RPM A-Arm rear - $10
    - Race Edge Al Washers - $8
    - MIP Heavy Duty Axle - $60

    Total so far: $1222 (I was hoping to be under $1000)
    Some prices are for reference only as I am taking from one of my trucks but most parts were bought new.

    I will soon upload some pics of the parts.
    Not enough space here

  2. #2
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    And here is the pic of what I have so far.

    Not enough space here

  3. #3
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    $1200+ Rustler Build

    I have never ever built an rc car from the ground up, I have always bought an rtr. It's more expensive to do it this way but it's kind of like you order it to your liking but you spend way more money, but I would like to build an rc from the ground up, but that's a project for me later in life cause I am only 15, so yeah


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    Last edited by Spencer911; 03-01-2014 at 04:23 PM.

  4. #4
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    Yes it is more expensive. If you think it will cost me more than 2 XO-1 RTR to build this Rusty but it will be unique. There is not much logic about the hobby anyway.....
    Not enough space here

  5. #5
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. Petertje60's Avatar
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    Nice list you got there.
    You might need a separate BEC with that servo and the MMP...

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    Nobody is born with experience

  6. #6
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    Is this why those guys can buy a brand new RTR and make money selling it piecemeal on eBay? I guess that might apply to a new Cadillac also.

  7. #7
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    Quote Originally Posted by Petertje60 View Post
    Nice list you got there.
    You might need a separate BEC with that servo and the MMP...

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    Yes, possibly. I didn't add to the list but I bought a Novak capacitor ($10) and I will adjust the BEC output via the MMP to see if works. If not I will follow your recommendation.

    Quote Originally Posted by Luckyman View Post
    Is this why those guys can buy a brand new RTR and make money selling it piecemeal on eBay? I guess that might apply to a new Cadillac also.
    Yes, you pay a lot more if you buy a truck in parts. With that said it is lots of work to do it. In my case most are aftermarket parts so it would be worthless to start with a RTR.
    Last edited by fvj; 03-02-2014 at 09:26 AM.
    Not enough space here

  8. #8
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    So, first think I have done was to tune the shocks. I wanted to lower them so I added plastic spacers. Most people use the nitro tubing. I happen to like the plastic shock mounts that comes with the stock shocks. They usually lower exactly the right amount IMO.

    I will be using 30wt in the fronts and 40wt in the rear. Springs I will use the non progressive Traxxas white.


    Not enough space here

  9. #9
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    Very nice list! I don't usually follow Rustler builds, but this is too good not to. This is pretty close to my Stampede build I did awhile ago, and later sold. I have gotten a pair of neighbor kids into RC's and they both have Rustlers. I will have to show them this!

    FLM BL E-Maxx - BL Slash - BL 4Tec - 1/16th Fiesta - Wraith - SCX-10 - Custom Axial 6WD - Custom Losi micro Monster Truck - Losi Micro-T Hummer - Custom Losi Micro Peterbilt Crawler - soon '65 Malibu Micro T Drifter
    Slash BL-Pede-E 4Tec-FLM EMAXX-Wraith-AX-10-SCX-10

  10. #10
    RC Racer
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    so you are building a shelf queen

  11. #11
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    Quote Originally Posted by tjk6789 View Post
    so you are building a shelf queen
    I don't run much my trucks and I keep them clean. So maybe you are right.
    Not enough space here

  12. #12
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    Sounds like it will be an awesome build. cannot wait to see the finished product. Also, I never knew that is what those black spaces were for. I just always threw them to the side lol

  13. #13
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    cool build, but your nuts. for that money you could have a competition ready brushless 1/8 buggy.
    Traxxas please sell kits!

  14. #14
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    Quote Originally Posted by Racer83L View Post
    cool build, but your nuts. for that money you could have a competition ready brushless 1/8 buggy.
    haha I was thinking along the same thing, could have stock rustler, slash and 4x4 for that kinda dough. but what ever floats your boat.

  15. #15
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    i have a slash that when now that i am finish 3 bodies 4 sets of wheels and tires and a anza lgc cost me over about $1200 but i also have a 1/8 buggy, rustler, mini e revo, xray touring car and a tayima mini cooper on a MO5 chassis

  16. #16
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    My Slash and E-Maxx are both built this way. NOT shelf queens. I can beat on these trucks all day and I hardly ever break anything. If you put the money in the right places, they are show AND go! FLM makes some killer parts. They are like individual pieces of art that you put together to make a beautiful masterpiece.

    Gotta be tough, we like to air 'em out!



    Look at that beautiful FLM chassis!



    Not trying to steal your thread, man. Just showin' why we do what we do.....

    FLM BL E-Maxx - BL Slash - BL 4Tec - 1/16th Fiesta - Wraith - SCX-10 - Custom Axial 6WD - Custom Losi micro Monster Truck - Losi Micro-T Hummer - Custom Losi Micro Peterbilt Crawler - soon '65 Malibu Micro T Drifter
    Slash BL-Pede-E 4Tec-FLM EMAXX-Wraith-AX-10-SCX-10

  17. #17
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    ok i jumped my rustler over a 12ft fence off of a stakeboard ramp landed on all four wheels and didn't break a thing it was almost bone stock all that was aftermarket was the wheels and tires

  18. #18
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    Quote Originally Posted by MAXXXMASHER View Post
    Not trying to steal your thread, man. Just showin' why we do what we do.....
    Don't worry man. Comments are always welcome
    Not enough space here

  19. #19
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    Started working on the FLM transmission. I got a new transmission, disassembled it, took the internal parts and de-greased them (nitro cleaner and denatured alcohol).



    After degreasing I opened the diff and added some 500k diff oil. Before you think is too thick, this will be a street truck so all I am looking is traction.

    Next opened the FLM transmission pack. It seems to be a new design as the motor guard is different than all the pictures I saw. So it took me some time figuring on what goes where. Sent a message today to FLM but as usual crickets. They have good products but basically zero support.



    Assembled the gears



    I added a very thin layer of white lithium grease, enough to lubricate but not to create excessive resistance.



    Some blue thread lock (yes that is all I usually use - some people uses red and/or use a way more - not me) and started putting it together.



    Now I will have to figure the motor guard. If someone have assembled one recently and want to share a picture I will appreciate. Well time to concentrate on work. So I will get back on this next weekend
    Not enough space here

  20. #20
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    also why not get the spekrum sr410 rx faster frame rate means faster response time for your throttle and steering

  21. #21
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    Quote Originally Posted by tjk6789 View Post
    also why not get the spekrum sr410 rx faster frame rate means faster response time for your throttle and steering
    As you can see in the part list, I intend to upgrade to the DX4S as soon as they are available. It comes with a SRS4210 & SR410. I will then use the 4210 so I can test the AVC (basicaly a stability control for RC's)
    Not enough space here

  22. #22
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    Hey fvj, PM me if you'd like, if you have any questions about your FLM build or specifically, your tranny case. I've built 5 FLM Traxxas RC's, 2 of those being rustys. But the FLM tranny case has changed, with respect to the style. FLM's 1st generation tranny case had the removable motor guard. Their newer FLM tranny case, the motor guard is actually incorporated into the gear box half. It's obviously not removable. Did you ever consider going with a sealed diff? Good luck with your build. If you ever need to get in contact with FLM, instead of leaving a message, text Shane, he's pretty reliable, and will answer your text and even send pics if necessary. But as I stated before, if you have any questions, just PM me, and I'll give you my phone number and text you some pics on my latest FLM rusty build, if they help with your build at all, but I'm running the MM2 2200kv setup on mine, with dual SPC 3S 50C lipos, on GRP compound A's. Good luck and enjoy the assembly.
    FLM RUSTY, FLM EMAXX, ERBE, SLASH PLATINUM 4X4

  23. #23
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    Quote Originally Posted by quantumreality View Post
    Hey fvj, PM me if you'd like, if you have any questions about your FLM build or specifically, your tranny case. I've built 5 FLM Traxxas RC's, 2 of those being rustys. But the FLM tranny case has changed, with respect to the style. FLM's 1st generation tranny case had the removable motor guard. Their newer FLM tranny case, the motor guard is actually incorporated into the gear box half. It's obviously not removable. Did you ever consider going with a sealed diff? Good luck with your build. If you ever need to get in contact with FLM, instead of leaving a message, text Shane, he's pretty reliable, and will answer your text and even send pics if necessary. But as I stated before, if you have any questions, just PM me, and I'll give you my phone number and text you some pics on my latest FLM rusty build, if they help with your build at all, but I'm running the MM2 2200kv setup on mine, with dual SPC 3S 50C lipos, on GRP compound A's. Good luck and enjoy the assembly.
    Thanks quantum. I will definetevely contact you if I have questions. I am upset with FLM as it is the second time I need support from them and can't get it (last time I was trying to figure how to fit the transmission micro servo in my E Maxx). In regards to the new tranny design, I can see the guard is integrated now but only cover a small part of the motor. I suppose the 3 aluminum conic/round inserts (see 2nd pic upper left - they look the same as the ones that comes with the shock tower ?) will serve as spacers for the rear bumper / wheelie bar mount?

    In regards to the sealed diff I considered but I use thick oil so the stock diff will work just fine.
    Not enough space here

  24. #24
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    i have the dx4s just installed the update for the AVC on last friday so you can get the controller now with the sr410 then you can get the other rx later down the road also the dx4s with the AVC is 249.99 and the controller without is 199.99 but it is the same controller just the rx is the only difference
    Kyosho Inferno VE, Anza Slash, Rustler VXL

  25. #25
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    Yeah fvj, the aluminum offsets are for the Traxxas wheelie bar, if you're gonna run one. I run a T-Bone Racing wheelie bar, so I didn't use them.

    FLM is notorious for giving you extra parts. Which at times drives me nutters, because when I'm finished with the build and I got all these extra aluminum offsets, aluminum conical washers, and a ziplock bag full of socket head cap screws, I'm just hoping I didn't forget anything
    FLM RUSTY, FLM EMAXX, ERBE, SLASH PLATINUM 4X4

  26. #26
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    Started working today on the rear end of the truck. Amazing how parts are not direct fit and need rework. The new FLM tranny hits one of the chassis edge.



    I decided to dremmel the chassis instead of the tranny. Easy fix but I would expect FLM to do their homework and check that their parts will not fit.

    Time to attached the tranny to the chassis. The SS hardware look good but I was expecting better quality. The Hexes seem sub par and I have a feeling it will be easily damaged.



    It took me over 1 hour to assemble the rear shock tower. It seems like the chassis dimensional is slightly off so 3 screws would fit but the forth would be far of center. I checked several pictures online and it seem like I was doing it right. So I removed the tranny screws and then I was able to center the shock tower. When tightening all screws again it was noticiable that one hole mounting was off center but I was able to work a way around.



    MIP assembled



    Big Bores, RPM and Aluminum clutch pads



    Motor in place and RPM gear cover. Unfortunately another fit issue. The RPM gear cover will leave a major gap. I tried to dremel it and I was able to minimize but not to eliminate the gap. I am considering using the stock gear cover.

    Not enough space here

  27. #27
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. Petertje60's Avatar
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    Looking good! You will have to polish it every now and then. Lol.

    Amazing how FLM just refuses to change design flaws. The quality of the material is awesome, but that's it.
    Nobody is born with experience

  28. #28
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    Wanted to build an FLM Rustler for some time now but after hearing about the fitment issues over the past years I decided to go with other aluminum brands. Seems they still have those issues smh. Crazy how members bash integy but don't bash FLM for the same problems.

    other than that though this Is a nice build my man.

  29. #29
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    Petertje60 summarized perfectly. FLM material quality is top notch but the design has its flaws.
    Besides the issues I had with the chassis I was working on the chassis top plate today and one of the steering pin that comes with it is oversized and will not allow me to fit the belcrank bearings.....
    Not enough space here

  30. #30
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    Looks as though you're going to have to return it The end of the bellcrank posts, should fit nicely into the upper/top chassis, then the shoulder screw socket heads, should drop down, into the two holes on the bottom chassis, hopefully securing the bellcrank in place. I actually had to use some extra FLM aluminum conical washers when assembling my bellcrank. The bellcrank and draglink go together easy, but getting it to mount correctly in between the top and bottom chassis, can turn into a a freakin project. Once I did finally get it mounted, there's absolutely no play or slop at all in the steering. It eventually turned out great. So I guess it was worth the extra effort. I sure hope.
    FLM RUSTY, FLM EMAXX, ERBE, SLASH PLATINUM 4X4

  31. #31
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. O.G.'s Avatar
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    Nice build so far. In the past, FLM has returned my emails in 3-4 days.

    I've assembled a couple of the older chassis' and they went together okay, not great but okay. Do you have a stock Rusty laying around to rob a steering pin from?
    My Black & Blue Rally is faster than your color...

  32. #32
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    I sent a email to FLM today. Let's see if they will respond. They never respond any of my e-mails.... Sent one on 3/3 with some questions on the tranny but no reply so far.
    Not enough space here

  33. #33
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    Quote Originally Posted by fvj View Post
    I sent a email to FLM today. Let's see if they will respond. They never respond any of my e-mails.... Sent one on 3/3 with some questions on the tranny but no reply so far.
    I have never had a problem with FLM, they have always responded to my mail. I even managed to purchase a nitro anodised C caster block and some other items directly as no one offered them any more for my build
    Live life to the fullest

  34. #34
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    Quote Originally Posted by Jezza View Post
    I have never had a problem with FLM, they have always responded to my mail. I even managed to purchase a nitro anodised C caster block and some other items directly as no one offered them any more for my build
    Maybe you are special and I am not
    Not enough space here

  35. #35
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    Quote Originally Posted by fvj View Post
    Maybe you are special and I am not
    No i think they just got fed up of too many e-mails from me, so they decided to answer back and I got also what I was looking for for a long time.
    Live life to the fullest

  36. #36
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    Put together the front end. Easiest part so far, everything fit nicely.







    Now, the project will be on hold until I get some help from FLM. I sent another e-mail this week and finaly got a reply that they will check. But no solution so far. To recap, one of the bellcrank posts that came with the upper chassis is oversized and will not fit the bearings.

    Another issue I noticed is that the FLM upper plate design has the servo too close to the bellcrank so the Traxxas Al bellcrank wont fit. Luckly I have a spare STRC but even this one I will have to figure how to fit it.
    Not enough space here

  37. #37
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    Looking really good, man! I hope you get all your fitment issues resolved. Just one thing, though. All these beautiful pieces, and you're still using the fiberglass tie bar? Check out the one from Pro-Line. Perhaps not necessary, but is any of this necessary? Also, the threaded captured hinge pins and king pins from STRC are very nice, too. I mean if you're going all the way.....

    FLM BL E-Maxx - BL Slash - BL 4Tec - 1/16th Fiesta - Wraith - SCX-10 - Custom Axial 6WD - Custom Losi micro Monster Truck - Losi Micro-T Hummer - Custom Losi Micro Peterbilt Crawler - soon '65 Malibu Micro T Drifter
    Last edited by MAXXXMASHER; 03-16-2014 at 12:17 PM.
    Slash BL-Pede-E 4Tec-FLM EMAXX-Wraith-AX-10-SCX-10

  38. #38
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    Yeah, I didn't like the fiberglass tie bar but I was not sure what to do with it. I will consider the Proline, but I kind of dislike the gold color... I may buy and de-anodize it.
    I didn't want the captured hing pins as I don't want to drill the c blocks treads. The stocks also go well with SS hardware.
    Not enough space here

  39. #39
    RC Racer
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    wow! very nice build! I think his just made my mind up on buying a Rustler. good job brotha! Good job!

  40. #40
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    +1 strc hinge pins, I have them on all the pedes,
    if you are going for the extended arms get the FLM cvd, ,an they are excellent or MIP ,
    The FLM nitro caster block is great too
    Awesome build................i love all metal builds and bash them hard instead of sitting on the shelve
    Live life to the fullest

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