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  1. #1
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    Cool Nostalgia racing build - building a racing revo

    Well, I just could not resist. I have always loved nitro MT's. I started with a T-Maxx when they first came out (the Pro .15 motor). I bought a Revo when they were released and was racing that (was racing my Supermaxx before that). I modded the heck out of the Revo, too. Mainly getting it lighter. I know many people will say the Revo works best for them at 8.5 pounds, but my Revo was 7.1 pounds RTR with X-wings on the front, 2.5 motor, a NiMh rx battery and an aluminum chassis. I called the truck Sub7, since that was my goal with it. So, I decided to do a similar build, but with extended chassis, 3.3 motor and lipo rx pack.

    I will be slowly building and modifying this. I will try and take pictures along the way, maybe even with weight comparison of stock and replacement parts.

    I started with a nicely modded 3.3 Revo, (parts listed below) for a pretty good price.

    It has the following:

    extended chassis
    Platinum shocks
    P2 rockers
    Tekno sway bars

    center diff
    rear brakes
    ERevo diff cups
    RB Mods modded motor (1 gallon thru it)
    RB Mods turbo head
    New Ceramic motor bearings
    New con rod
    New crankshaft
    THS pipe
    Buku clutch
    New Era billet motor mount
    M2C Racing motor brace

    8mm Tekno axles
    Tekno front carriers
    RPM arms front
    RPM Tru Track rear arms
    Tekno 17mm adapters

    Here are some pics of it when I got it.













    I have been taking it apart, cleaning it and started adding parts, taking off parts, weighing things and rebuilding it all. I have taken it down to the bare bones and will be updating the thread as I go.

    Here is the Mini Revo race build that I did and that thread shows the private track that I get to run on (a friend owns it and lets me run there anytime I want).
    http://traxxas.com/forums/showthread...cing-mini-Revo
    Last edited by wrightcs77; 02-28-2014 at 10:31 PM.

  2. #2
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    Cool. I'm happy to see more of these mt racers coming back. They are extremely fun if you can drive alright. I keep most of the truggies in my dust at my local track.

  3. #3
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    I love to see this thread. Ill be following it closely.
    Traxxas please sell kits!

  4. #4
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    I will first start off with a pic with race tires/rims on it. Makes it look more "racey" even though that is the only initial change.




    Weight with no fuel and no rx but with the racing tires is 9.170 lbs, or 4160 grams. A hefty pig in my book. I will let the project to lighten this thing begin.
    Last edited by wrightcs77; 03-01-2014 at 10:06 PM.

  5. #5
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    I will give a little idea as to what I have planned. Here are some upgrades I have picked up.

    Vantage 3.3 chassis
    RD Racing hub carriers - black - 2 pair
    RD Racing rear shock mount - black
    RD Racing front shock mount - black
    RD Racing shock ends - black - 2 pair
    RD Racing steering brace - black
    Lunsford P2 pushrods
    X-wing driveshafts
    aluminum pivot balls for the ends of all tie rods and push rods
    Aluminum screws for much of the truck

    Stuff I still have to purchase:
    Lunsford toe links
    Lunsford pivot posts
    Lunsford pillow balls
    Lunsford hinge pins
    Lipo rx pack

    I will be doing mods to some of the parts, too, to reduce weight.


    Here are some weight comparisons to start with (weight is in grams)

    Stock chassis



    Vantage chassis




    Tekno front carriers (with bearings)


    RD Racing front carriers (with bearings)




    Stock rear shock mount


    RD Racing rear shock mount

    I will give up 1 gram on each shock mount for the ease of removing the shocks, since the aluminum ones will not "crush" the top of the shock mount. Also, should help remove a little bit of flex on the Vantage chassis.



    Stock front shock mount


    RD Racing front shock mount
    Last edited by wrightcs77; 03-01-2014 at 10:07 PM.

  6. #6
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    the vantage chassis... if you bash the truck is it a bad decision? Im trying to set mine up for the track but will definitely still be bashing it.
    Traxxas please sell kits!

  7. #7
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    Quote Originally Posted by Racer83L View Post
    I love to see this thread. Ill be following it closely.
    Lovin' it all the way!

  8. #8
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    Awesome stuff. I love seeing the scale out. Good luck on your build. Keep it comin'!
    Big Air Don't Care

  9. #9
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    I worked on it some tonight. I have to pick up some x ring seals for the front diff tomorrow. More pics coming soon. Still in the rebuilding stage with some minor mods to reduce weight. I will see where it stands and what it weighs after the rebuild.

    Sent from my DROID RAZR HD using Tapatalk

  10. #10
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    My revo was 13lbs last time I put it on wii fit lol. What are these x wings? Ive not heard of those I dont think. Links?

  11. #11
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    Quote Originally Posted by RC-PHASE View Post
    My revo was 13lbs last time I put it on wii fit lol. What are these x wings? Ive not heard of those I dont think. Links?
    X-Wings are one way driveshafts between the front diff and each front wheel. They were only made about 7 years ago for a very short time.

  12. #12
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    Been installing aluminum screws, a carbon brake disk, some Lunsford front toe links. Here are a few pics.

    Here are some pics of the blue aluminum screws installed in many places.













  13. #13
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    Here are some weights of some things for comparison sake.


    Stock u-joint



    Titanium and aluminum u-joint


    I think the weight savings is more than it shows.....lol. One, it is all rotational. Two, I think the stock one is just over 5 grams and the ti/aluminum is just under 3 grams for 1. Multiply that times 12 and you have over 1/2 ounce rotational weight saved.


    Stock brake disk


    Graphite brake disk



    Stock steering toe link



    Lunsford titanium steering toe link with Traxxas aluminum balls in the rod ends

  14. #14
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    is there a kit for the aluminum screws?
    Traxxas please sell kits!

  15. #15
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    Revo's run good at about 9-10 pounds, anything less and they just get kicked around and are just to light.
    Last edited by 96motorhead; 03-12-2014 at 03:56 PM.

  16. #16
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    Quote Originally Posted by 96motorhead View Post
    Revo's run good at about 9-10 pounds, anything less and they just get kicked around and are just to light.
    I disagree...but you will have to change your shock oil and springs to compensate for the lighter vehicle. Like as in spring rates designed for the slayer and lowering the oil weight down into the 40s. It will fly for sure.
    If it didn't break you can do it again.

  17. #17
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    Quote Originally Posted by 96motorhead View Post
    Revo's run good at about 9-10 pounds, anything less and they just get kicked around and are just to light.
    That is what everyone was saying when I built my original 2.5 short chassis Revo that was 7.1 lbs rtr (nicknamed "Sub 7"). They said it was too light...........until they saw it run. Tracks were a little tighter and rougher then. Now the tracks are smoother and higher bite, more high speed. There were many tracks that Sub 7 out qualified 99% of the 8th scales and set the fastest single lap time. The truck was great. I may actually buy it back from the person who bought it from me. Short chassis and all.

  18. #18
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    Quote Originally Posted by 96motorhead View Post
    Revo's run good at about 9-10 pounds, anything less and they just get kicked around and are just to light.
    I agree we used to run mt on off-road track I built a small block 3.4 powered lst weighed 9.6 lbs and was taking out super lightweight carbon fiber 18tz powered revos it was well planted and and sturdy and the revo guys were getting tossed off the track by savage and lst trucks but then again the way you build it might have perfect balance between engine and weight like my small block lst does , nobody ever expects me to do as well as I do because the always see the truck before it runs and say its under powered but the always get surprised and best of all I have the xxl tank and never have to pit not even in the 20 minute mains

  19. #19
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    I worked on it some tonight. I have a roller with servos installed. Took some more pics of weight comparison. Will hopefully be able to post some updated pics in the next couple of days. It is looking NICE!

  20. #20
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    Well, here are some pics. Still waiting on a couple of things. The pillowballs and pivot posts I got locally used. They are all straight and true, just a little dirty. I cleaned them up quickly.

    Stock pillowball



    Lunsford pillowball



    All 6 stock pillowballs (since I am using RPM Trutrack in the back)



    6 of the Lunsford pillowballs




    Two of the stock steel pivot posts for the rockers (without the screws holding down the rocker)



    Two of the Lunsford titanium units




    8 of the steel pivot balls on the end of links in the rod ends. I did all the the ones on the pushrods, shocks and toe links and will do the steering link once I get the linkage the correct length. That means I will have a total of 22 of the aluminum pivot balls.



    Here is 8 of the Traxxas lightweight aluminum pivot balls.




    Here is a shot of the back of the truck as it sits. I did put in a Radiopost throttle servo (165 oz. at .04 sec!!!!!!!). I don't need much torque as the front wheels are all on one ways, just rear wheel braking.

  21. #21
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    Here is the whole roller. Waiting on a Mugen Mbx5 tank to put in the middle of the truck on the right side.



    Close up of the aluminum uprights, titanium pillowballs, aluminum screws, aluminum pivot balls and titanium push rod. Still have to get the titanium u-joints.



    Close up of the x-wings.



    Shot of the underside. Check out all the blue aluminum screws!



    Still waiting for the Mugen tank, titanium u-joints, P3 rockers for the front (P2's in for now to get it together), lipo rx pack and I think that is it. Can't wait for the snow to melt and to get it on the track.

  22. #22
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    Quote Originally Posted by Racer83L View Post
    is there a kit for the aluminum screws?
    Not that I know of. I get mine from a store called fastener express.

  23. #23
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    I admire your determination to lighten the truck. It should be interesting about how it kicks butt on the track. Did you ever make a video of the "sub 7"? If not, then definately make a video of this one. I want to see if risk is worth the reward.
    Revo 2.5 upgraded to 3.3.

  24. #24
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    Looking good and great documentation of the individual parts and how they add up. One question though How much weight savings is there between using the aluminum vs the steel screws?
    If it didn't break you can do it again.

  25. #25
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    Quote Originally Posted by ManDime View Post
    I admire your determination to lighten the truck. It should be interesting about how it kicks butt on the track. Did you ever make a video of the "sub 7"? If not, then definately make a video of this one. I want to see if risk is worth the reward.
    No video of the old truck, unfortunately no pics, either.

    Quote Originally Posted by afterdarkgames View Post
    Looking good and great documentation of the individual parts and how they add up. One question though How much weight savings is there between using the aluminum vs the steel screws?
    The aluminum screws are about 65% lighter than steel screws. Titanium screws are about 50% lighter than steel screws.

  26. #26
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    Looks like it's coming along nice but I had a couple questions. First why use the mugen tank? I know way, way back in the day people used them to get a bigger fuel tank than stock but why not use the traxxas 150cc tank? I know you can move the mugen tank forward about an inch but does it really make that big of a difference? Also I was looking into the rd racing knuckles and do you think they are worth the 100 dollars? I would just think you would snap the arm or pillow balls in half instead of snapping the knuckle. If you used the plastic ones you would save more weight.

  27. #27
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    Quote Originally Posted by 96motorhead View Post
    Looks like it's coming along nice but I had a couple questions. First why use the mugen tank? I know way, way back in the day people used them to get a bigger fuel tank than stock but why not use the traxxas 150cc tank? I know you can move the mugen tank forward about an inch but does it really make that big of a difference? Also I was looking into the rd racing knuckles and do you think they are worth the 100 dollars? I would just think you would snap the arm or pillow balls in half instead of snapping the knuckle. If you used the plastic ones you would save more weight.
    For the tank, it moves the weight forward by about 3". The front of the tank mounts to the back of the steering servo mount.

    For the knuckles, I got them nip off Ebay (along with all the RD Racing stuff on the truck) for $31 shipped. Worth it in that respect. I will weigh some stock ones to see what they weigh. I will try and sell the Tekno ones as I have no use for them.

    Sent from my DROID RAZR HD using Tapatalk

  28. #28
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    30 dollars for the rd racing hubs, that's a smoking deal.

  29. #29
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    Looking to get more steering throw and have run into a dilemma. Do I dremel out the RD Racing carriers some or do I turn down the OD of the Lunsford pillowballs between the threads and the ball itself? The carriers are hitting the pillowball shaft and I am not getting enough steering throw/travel.

  30. #30
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    I seriously dont think dremeling out the rd racing carriers is the better of the two ideas. Do you think you can do a comparison between how much the stock turn verses the rd's?
    Revo 2.5 upgraded to 3.3.

  31. #31
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    I have raced RD carriers for years and they are already have more travel than any carrier produced. Mine turns rack to rack with no problems and are already bevel cut in that area. They have as much travel as my ackerman will allow with the relief grinding done to it and steering stops removed. I would not grind them. I would remove the true track and replace them with RD carriers as well. The 1.5 degree toe those are trapped at is not enough toe for racing. I would also go with the 8mm stub axle upgrade and M2C hexes. For those Xwings you will have to run 300K in the front diff to get those to perform correctly but you may already have done that. Its looking good!!
    2009 Florida State Monster Truck Champion
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  32. #32
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    It's a bummer that the Tekno carriers weigh so much. I don't understand why they didn't factor the weight into their design, considering RD and other manuf's make lighter than stock alum carriers.

    I use Tekno's because of the additional ackerman adjustability, and also 8mm axles. For me, the additional ackerman effect far offsets the weight issue. But, I still had to grind on the carriers. I dialed in the maximum amount of ackerman, and grinding was required in order to get the most out of it. The ackerman effect is now similar to our buggy, which is what I was aiming for.

    I wouldn't grind on the RD carriers because they are already beveled, but I would turn down the pillow balls.
    Believe 1/2 of what you see,and 0 of what you hear

  33. #33
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    I don't think there is anything you will gain from turning the pillow balls. With as much as can be taken off the ackerman done and stops removed there is no more travel left even if the balls were tuned. The ackerman hits the bulk support at same time as the ball shafts hit the beveled area in the RD carriers. Anymore travel if it was even possible would have the rims rubbing on the toe links and push rods especially if zero offset wheels were used. RD Racing carriers were designed by racers with all this in mind. Here is a shot in comparison to the Truggy which you won't achieve that but its close and certainly enough for racing.
    Last edited by pntmachine; 03-23-2014 at 04:39 PM.
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  34. #34
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    I have all the steering mods done and RD carriers. The carriers bottom out on the Lunsford pillow balls before the steering hits anywhere else. I guess I will have to wait until it hits the track to see if it is enough steering throw.

    Also been messing with linkages and brakes. I just have the front brake in now and installed a FOC (took out center diff) and with the carbon brake disk the brakes are very weak. Should I go to aluminum pads (take out the stock pads) or to a carbon plate (I have those, too)? Did not know how carbon disk and carbon pad would do? I thought in 8th buggy if you went to a carbon or fiberglass disc that you went to straight metal pads (removed the "pad" material).

  35. #35
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    certain places where you have the aluminum screws are not practical.. they will break.. push rods are high stress areas .. it would suck to see you can't finish your day because of a broken screw... even worst if you cane get it out now you have to replace the entire part... any area with high stress should not have aluminum screws in them.. just an FYI
    you know.. i never had a sig.. but i do now...

  36. #36
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    Quote Originally Posted by kgombe1 View Post
    certain places where you have the aluminum screws are not practical.. they will break.. push rods are high stress areas .. it would suck to see you can't finish your day because of a broken screw... even worst if you cane get it out now you have to replace the entire part... any area with high stress should not have aluminum screws in them.. just an FYI
    I will probably replace the ones in the engine brace with high strength steel ones.

    The ones on the end of the pushrods I will think about. I ran aluminum in my old truck, though it was a 2.5r and the tracks were smaller, more technical and less big air back then. I do have Lunsford screws that are the correct length for the pushrods if I find the need to run them there.

    Thanks for all the help and answering all of my questions over PM's. I got out of MT just as the extended arms came out, so I missed the whole extended chassis and 3.3 learving curve. I did grab a few 2.5 chassis's of ebay and may be building a decked out short wheelbase (2.5 chassis) truck, too. We will see. That truck would use the aluminum screws everywhere except the motor mount. I may not even add a motor brace to it if I used the stock aluminum chassis.

  37. #37
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    I started with a 2.5 and slowly upgraded mine to a 3.3 platinum revo. I must say the 3.3 chassis handles the big 1/8 tracks a lot better than the 2.5 chassis. But it would be awesome if you had a short and a long wheelbase truck. Then you could just run one or the other depending on the layout.

  38. #38
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    I received the v titanium u joints yesterday. I will be installing them soon. I want to weigh all the old ones vs the new titanium ones.
    Last edited by wrightcs77; 03-26-2014 at 09:02 AM.

  39. #39
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    I have some COOL stuff that should be arriving tomorrow.

    FULL set of caron push rods, P1, P2 and P3.
    Full set of carbon toe links
    Full set of carbon hinge pins
    Carbon pivot posts - YES - you read that right. All 4 are lighter than 1 Lunsford titanium post.

    Will post pics with weights. It will be light, plenty strong and look awesome!

  40. #40
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    Wow, I love this thread! Nice build, it's very well done!
    Sl2sh Slayer Summit Sl4sh Teton/Rally T-Maxx Pnde

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