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  1. #1
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    Axle carriers : integy vs rpm

    Okay so my stock axle carriers have developed quite a bit of play (my 2.2 rock lizards probably aren't helping). So I'm looking to upgrade. My friend has a 1/16 e-revo with rpm carriers, they have virtually no play. But I'm also seeing the aluminum integy ones. I've heard some pretty bad stuff about integy, but my aluminium integy control arms have been awesome. Also I've read that their carriers for other trucks are great.

    Given that they have a similar price my initial response would be aluminium. But if integy is really that bad then maybe I should get the rpm ones.

    Has anyone tried the integy axle carriers?
    1/16 Summit beadlocks with 2.2 rock lizards

  2. #2
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. Jimmie Neutron's Avatar
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    In my observations, all of the following makes a decent knuckle... with many reported happy users:
    HR, GH, and GPM

    HR gets a bad rap because the threads are not always perfect for the pillow ball adjuster. To be honest, I don't think any of them have perfect threads in this area... but because HR has aluminum pillow ball adjusters this flaw becomes more evident. If you have a way to chase the threads to make sure they are perfect, HR makes a quality knuckle.

    RPM are hit and miss... some report no issues while others say they popped pillow balls and the bearing hole ovaled over time.
    Whatever it is I just said... I could be wrong.

  3. #3
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    How about using 7033X Traxxas Aluminum Heavy Duty Pivot Ball Caps with the plastic stock carriers? I noticed my carriers are floppy already as new. Where exactly is the play at yours?
    Last edited by Summitfarmer; 01-22-2014 at 08:37 AM.

  4. #4
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    I'll add Atomik to the list to consider. Been really happy with these on my truck and I got them on Amazon for really cheap when the price fluctuated down. No issues at all with them thus far. Just another option.

    Father: 1/10 Summit Mamba | Son: 1/16 Summit VXL

  5. #5
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    Dang, I didn't realize there were so many options, my lhs only has the integy ones, and the only other one I've heard of were the RPM ones. I guess I have some reading to do.

    99.9% of the play in my carriers is comming from the pillow balls.

    Bsheasby, those carriers look awesome, I like the Idea of having an aluminium carrier as opposed to a plastic one, how is the play in the pillow balls?

    Has anyone tried those 7033x's that summitfarmer was talking about, it seems like a cheaper solution to my immediate problem. Although I think I'd still like the strength of an upgraded carrier.
    1/16 Summit beadlocks with 2.2 rock lizards

  6. #6
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. Jimmie Neutron's Avatar
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    A good portion of the reviews I have read on the 7033x's eventually ended up upgrading anyway... but it seems that the RC's where the body covers the tires really like the 7033's; the knuckles take less of an impact.

    All aluminum knuckles have pillow ball adjusters.
    Whatever it is I just said... I could be wrong.

  7. #7
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    I just installed Atomik front and rear axle carriers on my MERV. The front I'm not happy with, but maybe I didn't do something right...

    My nylon hex aren't near as far in as Bsheasby but they're really snug as far as the pillow's take force to move around. My steering is also in a bind with these knuckles... Anyone happen to have any suggestions?

    TIA!
    Satin White/Light Blue ERBE, Spartan & MERV

  8. #8
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    Im in the same boat. I'm torn between the RPM knuckles my LHS has or ordering aluminum ones. From all I've read any aluminum knuckles will do. But I'm really picky on color. I want black. And I've found it hard to find black in stock anywhere.

    I popped a upper pillow ball out of stock front knuckle at skate park recently. And the play in my stock knuckles is crazy.
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  9. #9
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    I just replaced my knuckles with RPMs.. Nice fit took all the slop out. I'm headed to the skatepark tomorrow.
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  10. #10
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    We'll went to skate park.. Beat the heck out of the poor little truck, actually as hard as I was bashing it I'm surprised it lasted as long as it did. But I did pop the pillow balls out of one of the front RPM carriers. But it dropped from 8' or so.
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  11. #11
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    Quote Originally Posted by USA1 View Post
    We'll went to skate park.. Beat the heck out of the poor little truck, actually as hard as I was bashing it I'm surprised it lasted as long as it did. But I did pop the pillow balls out of one of the front RPM carriers. But it dropped from 8' or so.
    Yeah my rpm's have been great. I've never popped a pillow ball though, neither has my brother, and we've gotten around (just me guessing) 10 ft of air.
    1/16 Summit beadlocks with 2.2 rock lizards

  12. #12
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    Yeah I'm not sure if I'm explaining the " helmet quit right, but the truck was upside down driving on the ceiling so to speak. Like going round and round in a pipe. People were pretty impressed.
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  13. #13
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    Post tested !!

    hi there

    i've tested almost all those solutions for axle carriers , the news traxxas aluminum pivot ball caps are on they way to my home and from my experiences here are all the pros and the cons

    HR alum : very good finish great look, adjustable pivot balls caps ( red or green) but unusable with the new rubber seal for anti-slip action and a gap between the inner bearing and the end of the driveshaft let dust and small rocks come onto the bearing ( my solution(s) ) use thread lock (blue) and cut the rubber seal, and use the axle carrier for the front of the car..no big dust here)

    RPM's: very good , no joke and can be still used even after a ball had popped out, because of the very durable and flexible plastic no problems just the fact that the screws on them are steel and not stainless steel and rust after a cleaning bath
    no cons…until ya switch to steel cvd's and have at least 3 mm to 4 of gap making camber and toe completely random..no due to wear , i verified…( solutions : for the screws use a little bit of lithium marine grease type , for the gap ya can use shims ( same size as the one for the diff) and if you can do it use traxxas mini summit driveshaft)

    atomik mod : perfect…just wished the anodizing be much hard and the pivot ball caps be more slippery, tend to bind the steering

    traxxas stocks modded : to come…
    i'm french so be gentle with the errors , i'm only 17 and not using a single bit of reverso or other...

  14. #14
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    I have the upgraded adjusters in the stock knuckles. They seem to work fine. That was my option since the GH ones I got wouldn't work. I don't really know how anyone is making them work as we tried two packages and both packages were the same. I don't remember the exact problem, but it was the wheel was too tight or loose.

    The Atomik ones look interesting and cheap, but if they are binding the steering than what good are they?

  15. #15
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    Has anyone here seen the infomercial on that dry lub? Bear with me. In the infomercial, the stuff is sprayed on a giant bolt and the nut spun fast and it spun almost all the way down, and they sprayed some on one of them carnival sack slides for the kids and the guy slid all the way down with no sheet under him. And the coolest feature is they sprayed a normal spray lub on a board and threw dirt on it and tipped the board up, and a lot of dirt stuck to the board, where the lub they where selling no dirt stuck to board. ..... Etc.... Anyway I want to try that stuff. For got name.

    I have a similar product I use on my gears in tranny and on the ring and pinions and bearings. It's called ProTecta. It's pretty good. Doesn't attract a bunch of dirt and is sort of a dry lub.

    I'm getting a truck, that has HR knuckles I'll report how they are. And I have I new set coming of HR knuckles. I'm running RPM knuckles and they are way better than stock.

    I also have a HR steering assembly coming. Scared that the servo will take all the abuse though.
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  16. #16
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    HR seem to be the best, just seems they dont' make the green ones anymore.

  17. #17
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    I figured the name, it's called SlickFix. I gotta try it.
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  18. #18
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    I installed the HR knuckles, and they are overall a good buy I think. They look great. The bearings fit tight. The the bolt is loose that goes into threaded hole for toe-link(like they taped the hole a little to big). I briefly drove it but I'll torture test them at skatepark.
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  19. #19
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    sorry for the wait

    hi there i received my package a little time ago, the aluminum pivot balls caps are a cheap option , they are very well build and go into the stock axle carrier perfect..
    the little binding issues were rapidly solved by bashing it hard, making a little bit of wear lubricate and tadaaaa, here it is,
    no excessive slop in the wheels, fit nice and tight and like this, you are sure to can use traxxas parts without other companies engineering mistakes.
    some people say that stock are always the worst but with a little trick i learned by studying the plastic of the part…. simply make them boil in hot water for 3-4 mins and they polymerize so well that they are almost at the same level of resistance that the rpm ones.
    (warning by it i'm not saying that they flexes like rpm's ones) true bashing and no popping out action,in majority due to a lot of gap between the cap and the ball making the ball traveling in that gap fast enough during a hit to destroy the plastic which in this case isn't here !!!
    ha yeah , i almost forgot USA1 said "the bearing fit tight" thats good dude…. but watch out for the rust and the force applied to the bearing to push it in the end of the hole because mine hhhh!!! WON'T EVEN MOVE NOW !! even by force i wasn't able to make the bearing pop out and ended destroying it with a mader#### hammer !! endless aluminum parts cons….

  20. #20
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    Your right. Steel and alumni up don't mix. I'm going to pull my bearings out and anti-seize the outer race and then pop the. In the HR aluminum steering knuckles. Good point. I sprayed the hole HR knuckle with dry lube but anti-seizing the outside of bearing before pushing them into the knuckle will keep the bearings from rusting in.

    Update no problems yet with HR knuckles.
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  21. #21
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    tricks and question time

    thanks hehe
    now if i can i'v a little question for ya
    have you some problems setting yours shocks to the right oil and what are yours settings if you succeeded because the axle carrier interact as well as tires choice and damper constitution with the reactivity in the absorption of an impact , at skate park it was chassi slapping concert …. i'm amaze now that the chassi didn't break apart, but at chamonix, for the holidays in the summer the weather is very warm and i'm an absolute backflip kamikaze !!
    for the moment i cheated by making rear summit suspension and front mini e revo but it look odd and i want to do hight speed so if ya have a solution
    for you i've also a other little trick …for the steering servo saver ..it's adjustable and you can minimize plastic friction by applying a hight stress resistance lithium grease at the base of the pivoting V collar
    set like this the 2080 servo that i've didn't break a pinion for now 6 months and even if i break it i've an other servo preinstalled just at the other side, just have to screw the servo link here and jihaaa !!
    have another trick for using torn servo pinion too

  22. #22
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    Pretty good ideas. I just flip steering assembly arm, when one side breaks. I too oil my steering assembly with dry lube. It helps a lot. Although sense i boiled the arm i haven't broke one yet.

    I think that the extended rear mini summit arms are a must have. Just boil them.

    I can remember the weight oil I used but it's thicker than stock. Right now I'm using purple Traxxas springs, with collars cranked down. They work great for bashing around yard. But I want the stiff springs for skatepark that The Toyz have, but out of stock.
    Last edited by USA1; 08-05-2014 at 10:42 AM.
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  23. #23
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    thanks

    ok thanks !!! see ya soon

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