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  1. #41
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. JimmyNeutron's Avatar
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    There are very few parts where even the best aluminum is better than some form of plastic... Integy has rather poor aluminum. It is not machined out of a solid chunk of aluminum, rather it is cast into the general shape and then finish machined to their specifications... giving it a billet look without the billet strength or expense on their end.

    Common issues with aluminum parts is that they do not adsorb impact... they transfer it to another part causing it to break elsewhere. And when they do adsorb impact it usually means buying another part... where a plastic, like RPM arms for instance, would adsorb the impact unscathed.


    There is a pin screw at the differential to remove and a pin at the wheel hex after the tire is removed. I was able to swap axles out without removing anything but the wheel.
    Whatever it is I just typed... could be wrong.

  2. #42
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    Whats the trick to getting the rear body post assembly off? Trying to take the A-arm off.. and I removed the screws.. but, the plastic whole piece seems to want to stay on the frame.. right where it connects to the pins that hold the rear a-arms on?

    Do I pry it off? Affriad to break it?

  3. #43
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    OMG! THIS is whats involved upgrading the drive shafts! I guess it's not just plug and play after all! YIKES.

    http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wT3kVjJi6Z4

    Perhaps I will stay with the stock Summit shafts until they break, and just replace them to avoid all this!

    Unless this is not right?

    EDIT - I see.. this is the "upgraded driveshafts".. the stock E-revo ones are almost like the stock summits, except a bigger pin.. = better. But, the steel ones needs this long process I referenced. Got it.
    Last edited by Suntiger; 01-24-2014 at 04:48 PM.

  4. #44
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. JimmyNeutron's Avatar
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    Yeah, the diffs only need to be tore into with the Traxxas steel shafts.

    There are two bolts going down into the bulkhead that pinch the rear body mount between the chassis and the bulkhead. Those need to be removed to remove the mount.
    Whatever it is I just typed... could be wrong.

  5. #45
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    Got it..

    Well then.. I'll proceed with the other upgrades I have coming.. and leave the drive shafts alone for now. When they break, I'll replace with E-revo stock ones.. then.. at a much later point (year maybe if it lasts that long depending on how I treat it).. I will do a tear down of the diff. I will replace both the front and rear pinion and drive gear, and upgrade to the steel shafts at that point. I'll also add one shim too. But, I'll do it all at once.. first wanna see how long the stock setup will take me.

    Some of the Integy parts I don't feel will make any difference to the structure either way. For example, the body posts, servo guard, skid plates, etc.. all that will have no effect on absorbing shock. Now, the A-arms on the other hand I can see where this could be an issue.. but, hopefully will turn out okay. I guess if they bend / break whatever I can replace with the RPM's.. I just did not go for the plastic look.

    I enjoy the alum. look and feel. It feels more like a scale truck vs. a plastic toy. Now granted, there is a line there between performance (feature, function & benefit) but I figured if how it looked was just as important then I could not have gone wrong. Again, thinking of how I drive it.. when compared to all the other youtube videos.. I am pretty easy on it… so, hopefully I will have a better longevity from the system as a whole. I guess time will tell huh.

    As long as the Integy parts FIT, and go together well I will be happy. IF not then i'll have to return it all and get my money back.

  6. #46
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    Hi Jimmie!

    So.. I got in my Integy order.. it all looks nice thats for sure. LOL.. everything went together well.. pics coming soon.. but, the rear arms are on back order so it's only half done.

    One thing I notice is.. there is a little play with the front upper and lower arms.. I think I may need a spacer or two.. where can I find thing this small?

    Also.. (big question).. is that the aluminim upgrade body posts I got (see here: http://www.integy.com/st_prod.html?p...7#.Uuv-DKUhVFw)

    The posts are SO SHORT! LOL. The summit body will not even come close to working with it. I am confused.. the stock posts are very tall.. and this new upgrade they are so short. What should I do? I need to find an upgrade for this part.. especially as I plan to mount the bigger ESC to it.. and I need the strength vs. the stock plastic.

    Thanks so much!

  7. #47
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    Jimmie..

    You were totally right. I bought all the Integy stuff like a fool.. and it did not even fit together well.

    I tore it all off, and replaced with RPM arms, and wheel carries. MUCH better!


    I had a few other specific questions for you..

    - I upgraded the shocks to the GTR's with "purple" springs. used the stock oil that shipped with it.. but, its way way way too soft in the rear. Bottoms out very easy. Do I need to use a different oil? and should I use it for the front too? What type of oil should I buy, and is there a special process to replacing the oil other then dumping out the old, and refilling with the new?

    - I have a grind going on with the spur and pinion. If I turn by hand, I can feel in one place where it gets tough. The weird part is that it looks totally fine.. but, it's not right somehow. Anyway.. I am just going to replace both to be safe, and to start fresh. Question is.. when installing the spur.. how can I be sure I have it on right, with the right amount of tension?

    - Steering servos. I have now been through 3. LOL. I guess one is just not enough. Are most guys running two? or.. is there an upgraded one I can buy?

    Thanks so much!!

  8. #48
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. JimmyNeutron's Avatar
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    To change oils; dump, clean, replace.
    As far as which weight to use, that is personal preference... there is not much of an exact science to it. I was happy with 50wt in my shocks, but I had big bore shocks that are no longer in production.

    The gears are cast... so making them absolutely machine perfect isn't really possible. My gears felt tight for a few teeth when I had them shimmed up too.
    Are you talking about the slipper tension? If so, I believe the manual states to compress the spring fully and then loosen it 1/4 turn or so.

    I suggest a Blue Bird 390. Twin stock servos would require custom adjustable linkage so that they won't fight each other to the death.
    Whatever it is I just typed... could be wrong.

  9. #49
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    Thanks Jimmie..

    Yeah, I meant the Spur gear.. and the pinion gear are making horrible grinding.. and there is a section on the relation that is hard. I think the Spur gear must be warped or something. The mesh is good. Is the stock spur good, or should I get a metal one?

    Do you know of any hitch servos that are great for the truck? waterproof?

  10. #50
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. JimmyNeutron's Avatar
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    I have seen steep spurs snap motor shafts... plastic gives, steel does not. Running a steel spur would also require hardened pinions.

    If the motor pinion and spur are grinding, there is something awry with the mesh... how did you set it?

    There is a HiTec that is factory waterproof, but it is not a drop in replacement. It is super easy to waterproof a servo. I have gotten waterproofing a servo down to about 5 minutes of work... all it takes is some time, a little RTV sealant, and a dab of dielectric grease. Disassemble the servo, put a dab of grease where the servo spline pokes through the case and reassemble with RTV at the seams. Once completed, it will look just like a standard servo.

    A HiTec is going to require a different horn... some use the included horns and modify them to work. Others feel a $10ish aluminum horn is needed. Some have also felt that the install required custom linkage to retain stock steering geometry.
    Whatever it is I just typed... could be wrong.

  11. #51
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    <sigh> I guess ill just stick with the stock servo for now. I assume others have had better luck with it?

    To set the mesh on the spur, I used a tiny piece of post it paper.. between them.

  12. #52
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. JimmyNeutron's Avatar
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    Most have upgraded that I know of... really, in my opinion, the Blue Bird is a great servo for this platform and hard to beat. Especially since it is 95+% drop in.

    How loose is your slipper?
    Whatever it is I just typed... could be wrong.

  13. #53
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    Right on. Blue Bird it is then.. where is a good place to order from for that? Also, is it waterproof out of the box?

    The slipper is totally stock. I never changed it. on 2S, on pavement, it will wheelie if I am not careful. I was thinking of making it a little looser when I install the new one.

    I think the one on there now, must be warped. By turning the pinion & spur together.. they are nice.. and you can tell the mesh is set right. looks, feels, and sounds correct. there is just one little "ruff" spot on the rotation that kinda sticks / grinds. So, I am assuming it's the plastic spur gear.

  14. #54
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. JimmyNeutron's Avatar
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    The Blue Bird is not waterproof stock... how to is covered above.
    Whatever it is I just typed... could be wrong.

  15. #55
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    Jimmie -

    . . .

    Edit - link won't work due to the forum rules.


    Edited for language abuse. If you see a starred out word in your post, you must edit it out to avoid earning warning points; this also applies when a banned company or product name has been blocked by the language filter.
    Last edited by cooleocool; 05-03-2014 at 10:35 PM.

  16. #56
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    Hi Jimmie..

    I know this is off topic.. I just wanted to quickly ask you..

    On my 1/8 summit.. If I use that truck completely stock with 2s and don't really bash it, is there any need to really shim the diff? Or was this mainly a mod needed for the 1/16? I would love to not have to tear that one apart :-)


    Also.. To get my speed fix on, I was thinking about a stampeed 4x4 or maybe e-revo. Do these trucks also need to be modded and shimmed? Or do they come built okay for the faster abuse?

  17. #57
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. JimmyNeutron's Avatar
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    I have not shimmed my Summit... as long as the slipper is adjusted right for you, you will not have any issues. I find the axles give just before the diffs to anyway.


    As far as the others... I only know from reading that shimming is a must (and sometimes not enough) on the Revo and a diff with the I-bar is a must with the Stampede.
    Whatever it is I just typed... could be wrong.

  18. #58
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    I have not shimmed my Summit... as long as the slipper is adjusted right for you, you will not have any issues. I find the axles give just before the diffs to anyway.
    Okay, great to know. So the regular summit should be good to go without having to do any shimming to the diff. (really love this truck). To be honest, I converted this over for FPV driving.. and it's not a bashing truck. This is why, I left it all stock and am not really worried about pushing it.

    With that said, I want to get a FAST capable truck that is really reliable, and I don't need to do such complex tasks like taking apart the diff to add shims etc.. (although I am sure it's not as bad I think). none the less, you know what I mean :-)

    I keep watching videos of the different trucks.. and it looks like the Stampede 4x4 VXL is a nice truck.. I am just not sure how it compares to the E-revo in terms of reliable use etc.. then again, there is also the E-maxx.. so I get really lost in the different options.

    I have found the 1/16 Summit to be a bit more troublesome then I wanted. I think other will agree, that its a great little truck.. and I do love the size of it. However, it flips over ALL the time.. and thats annoying.. as well, as things seem to break more often. and I am not that hard on them.

    and a diff with the I-bar is a must with the Stampede.
    What does this mean?

    Thanks so much once again!

  19. #59
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. JimmyNeutron's Avatar
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    Here you can see part of the I-Bar in a XO1 cup:
    Whatever it is I just typed... could be wrong.

  20. #60
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    humm.. this is over my head Jimmie :-( I'm not experienced enough to know what I am looking at. Is the stock Stampede not good? or is this a new part that I need to buy to replace from the start?

  21. #61
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. JimmyNeutron's Avatar
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    You can run it until it breaks, then upgrade it then.
    I also read that the motor mount should be upgraded when it wears out too...

    Here is an I-Bar out of the cup... it is the lowermost part:


    Here is an I-Bar in the cup... the chunk of steel right at the top between the gears:
    Whatever it is I just typed... could be wrong.

  22. #62
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    Right on.. thanks for that info. Do you feel that the Stampede is more robust / reliable then the E-Revo brushless overall?

  23. #63
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    Quote Originally Posted by Suntiger View Post
    Okay, great to know. So the regular summit should be good to go without having to do any shimming to the diff. (really love this truck). To be honest, I converted this over for FPV driving.. and it's not a bashing truck. This is why, I left it all stock and am not really worried about pushing it.

    With that said, I want to get a FAST capable truck that is really reliable, and I don't need to do such complex tasks like taking apart the diff to add shims etc.. (although I am sure it's not as bad I think). none the less, you know what I mean :-)

    I keep watching videos of the different trucks.. and it looks like the Stampede 4x4 VXL is a nice truck.. I am just not sure how it compares to the E-revo in terms of reliable use etc.. then again, there is also the E-maxx.. so I get really lost in the different options.

    I have found the 1/16 Summit to be a bit more troublesome then I wanted. I think other will agree, that its a great little truck.. and I do love the size of it. However, it flips over ALL the time.. and thats annoying.. as well, as things seem to break more often. and I am not that hard on them.



    What does this mean?

    Thanks so much once again!
    I read that the new Proline Big Joe II's may help with flipping over and are still good offroad. Haven't tried them as I'm still shimming front diff b4 really running new (used) truck much. Both of its diffs were "blown" when I bought it for my daughter. Bought the same Trenchers as you but this truck came with 25mm extenders on each wheel from The Toyz. Prob helps some with flipping but may put more stress on something else?

    I'm also thinking about 4Pede for more speed but wife says I have to sell all 3 of my 2WD 1/10 Traxxas first... She says I can't keep up with 7 trucks... She's prob right, too.
    What broke, uh, needs upgrading now?

  24. #64
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    I'm also thinking about 4Pede for more speed but wife says I have to sell all 3 of my 2WD 1/10 Traxxas first... She says I can't keep up with 7 trucks... She's prob right, too.
    LOL, I know the feeling. I am 33, and have an 18-month old who already loves trucks, and cars like dad! I in fact just got the 4x4 Stampede the other day.. and it's really really nice. I think this is a better truck then the E-Revo already. Fast, simple, and very nice!


    Well.. back to my 1/16 Summit..

    today, I replaced the 2080 steering servo and went to give it a go. BTW, I know my thread says I am running on 3S... but, I am not. I have not been running 3S at all, it's all 2S. FWIW. Anyway, some notes from my pack (which I could not even get to the end of because of something breaking) VERY frustrating! Heres what happened.. over the past three packs...

    1. I was driving along, and all of the sudden my rear wheel came flying off! The nut loosened, and it came right off. I was using aftermarket red 4mm nuts. But, they were not "locknuts". So, this was totally my fault. Live and learn. No damage..

    2. I replaced with new red 4mm nylon lock nuts, and got 1/2 through another pack.. and then the steering servo stripped out again. Light running on some dirt. Nothing hard at all. So frustrating! It's like if it flips over at all, or if I turn the wheels in grass, or I don't know whats going on.. but, I feel like its SO DELICATE! my god.

    3. Replaced servo again with the other (last) spare I had.. and went back out. again, 1/2 through STRIPPED AGAIN!

    Okay, I'm done with the 2080 servo. It just is not working in my truck. and I am not doing ANYTHING hard with the truck.

    In fact, I took off the connection from the servo horn to the linkage just to see if there was any binding going on at all.. ya know maybe the hub carries (RPM) were too tight or something.. nope.. silky smooth to the touch. So, mechanically everything seems perfect. I just don't get it. I have been through 5 servos!


    Apart from the servo issue.. I did some other changes to the truck I would like to comment on..

    1. I replaced the oil in the rear shocks with some 80wt. I also added a fair amount of pre-load.. and I was hoping to get some more damping in the rear to avoid slapping over bumps etc.. Seems to have worked out okay..(the front ones are stock oil that came with the GTR shocks 40wt?.. should I leave this alone or also run 80wt??) at the cost of flipping over much easier now. Honestly, the most frustrating thing (other then the 2080 servo) is the truck flips over so easy. Even a tight slow speed turn on pavement.. flip.

    2. The slipper I need to adjust. (I assume). I get wheelie really easy on take off. Perhaps I can also program the Castle ESC some too. But, it was hard to keep the front wheels on the ground if I wanted to sprint ahead fast quickly.

    3. I STILL noticed at the end of the last run, the rear wheel(s) (all of them really) seemed to loosen up a lot. So, I am wondering about the nut.. I bought the red ones for looks.. and I did get lock nuts this time.. but, they are not "serrated" or "groved".. so this maybe the difference?

    Thoughts?

    Some pics of my current ride:






  25. #65
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    Something to add to the above..

    I noticed that I can "widen" up the stance of the wheel base by backing off the two bolts that connect to the upper and lower A-arms via the hub carrier. To start with, when I have been running the truck all the bolts were screwed in all the way until they stop. I used this as a solid reference point, so that they would all be the same etc. But, then was thinking just now.. "what if I backed them out a bit to move the hub out a little more.. and then correct the position with the rod below (sorry I am not sure of the proper name of it).

    So I did..



    Here you can see, I basically split the difference.. and you can see some of the threads now, vs. before it was all the way in.

    I made all four tires the same.

    Will this help with the stability / roll over? Should they all be the same (rear vs. front).. or should the rears be wider then the front?

    thoughts?

  26. #66
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. JimmyNeutron's Avatar
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    Increasing track width will help reduce roll overs, but don't thread them out too far or you will ruin the arms when the pillow ball pulls out. Having the track the same front/rear is fine... however you want it, really.

    Your loosening nuts may be because of the serration... or possibly you are not tightening them enough??

    Increaseing the punch control will help with the shock load on the system as well as keeping wheelies to a minimum.

    Mounting your ESC on the chassis will help tremendously with your rolling over issue. Mounting it up high like that drastically raises your center of gravity!
    Whatever it is I just typed... could be wrong.

  27. #67
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    thetoyz.com has wheel extenders in various widths up to 25mm per side. Mine came with the 25mm ones so gives 2 in extra width. If they aren't kept tight they'll strip the wheel hexes inside but that can happen without extensions too.
    What broke, uh, needs upgrading now?

  28. #68
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    All good points Jimmie!

    I will need to find a way to mount the ESC on the chassie. It's tricky to mount. I agree, this is prob effecting the roll overs a lot.

    Also, in regards to my stripping of 208- servo gears.. I discovered that the servo saver built into the steering assem. was all seized up and not really doing it's job. It was way way too tight. So, I lubed with a little WD-40, and I also loosened up the screws just a tad.. and this now seems to feel better. So, I guess I can try one last 2080 as they are cheap.. and see if this was the key.

    Because, it seemed that in stock form it was not stripping as easy at all.. and now all of the sudden it was.. and I think this could have been why.

  29. #69
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    Quote Originally Posted by Suntiger View Post
    All good points Jimmie!

    I will need to find a way to mount the ESC on the chassie. It's tricky to mount. I agree, this is prob effecting the roll overs a lot.

    Also, in regards to my stripping of 208- servo gears.. I discovered that the servo saver built into the steering assem. was all seized up and not really doing it's job. It was way way too tight. So, I lubed with a little WD-40, and I also loosened up the screws just a tad.. and this now seems to feel better. So, I guess I can try one last 2080 as they are cheap.. and see if this was the key.

    Because, it seemed that in stock form it was not stripping as easy at all.. and now all of the sudden it was.. and I think this could have been why.
    The Bluebird 390 doesn't look too expensive and seems to have more power.
    What broke, uh, needs upgrading now?

  30. #70
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    Yes Jimmie leaves little room for anyone else to chime in. He's a wealth of knowledge. But the blue bird is not that much more than 2080. That's why I don't understand why Traxxas can't start putting better servos in the 1/16th's it wouldn't increase costs to much if any. I mean the use Castle stuff why not rebrand a servo?
    Those who forfeit liberty 4 security get neither

  31. #71
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    Look at the 1/16 e-Revo forum for a thread on all the servos that should be compatible with the mSummit...

    http://traxxas.com/forums/showthread.php?t=9007068
    What broke, uh, needs upgrading now?

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