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  1. #1
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    First run today with my 1/16 Summit VXL on 3S

    WOW. I have run the truck a total of about 5 times.. the first 4 were with the single stock battery.. and today, I used x2 Traxxas 3S LIPOS connected in parellal, and the power was intoxicating to say the least. It amazes me how this thing will blaze through anything!

    So, a few questions for the people with more experience with this model and setup..

    1. I did activate the LVC on the stock ESC. (solid green LED). I got about 45min of runtime with the 2800 total mAh's I had in the packs.. and then all of the sudden, the truck just stopped. I assume it was the battery's.. and the LED was flashing slowly red. (manual says this is the cut off mode). I checked each packs's voltage when I got home with a multimeter.. and it was 9.80V (3.26V per cell). I assume the stock ESC has a pre-programmed cut off of 3.2V? But, I can't find documentation that confirms this. I feel like 3.2V is a little on the risky side? 3.5 would be great. Thoughts?

    2. I installed the Traxxas heatsink with the included thermal paste to the motor. Seems to work okay.. what are the ideal temps I should see on the motor / heatsink? Whats too much?

    3. I am really careful with 3S. I fully understand how this can get into a bad situation.. too fast, lack of control, too much power to break something if there is too much resistance, etc.. so, I generally am 1/2 stick around my local park anyway. What I do like to do, is gradually ramp up the power on straights for a few seconds, and ease off for the turn etc.. I think the entire 45min run I did, I only flipped over twice. Not too bad. However, I really enjoyed blasting through the grass at high speed.. it was amazing to see this truck fly through it. I already know that this is stressing the motor, and ESC.. so is there anything else I can do to help with the heat build up I may see in the near future? Pinion gear change? or is the stock fine? What's the best practice and why?

    * more on my driving style with this truck.. is walking around my local park (which has some nice rocks, grass hills, off road, big roots, etc and some payment trails where I can get some speed. ) So the truck is driven one second very fast.. and then, in a more slower controlled manner over some terrain. Etc.. not like a race car. The biggest burst is when I will clear over across a large field of grass.

    4. The stock springs need to go. Running x2 packs now means more weight.. what's the best springs I should get, and do they need to be different in the back vs. the front?

    5. Wheels / tires. I like the stock ones.. they work. But, I want something else.. that.. well.. does not look stock. is Proline's offerings the best way to go? Or is there another manufacture out there that offers great tires mounted up ready to go too?

    6. Other then the heat sink, I added all red alum. rods (replaced all the red cheap plastic looking ones). The truth is this was just to make the truck look better. I could not stand the cheap look of that red plastic. What are some other good up grades that I can consider? I really love this truck.

    Thanks guys!

    PS - I also just bought the 1/10 - 1/8 scale summit.. and am looking forward to that one too! I almost think I got the 1/16 for the speed.. and the larger one may leave alone stock (except to use Li-pos).

  2. #2
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. JimmyNeutron's Avatar
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    1) It seems you may have missed stage 1 of the LVD... which is around 3.5v/cell.

    2) 160-180F 200F ruins magnets.

    3) Gearing down is best to make it easier on your power system.

    4) I cannot help as to which would be best, but they do not have to be the same... or they can be... that is up to you. I preferred stiffer in back and softer in front.

    5) I suggest unmounted tires so you can strap them to keep ballooning down to a minimum. Gluing tires is not all that hard. Proline is the best tire manufacturer out there in my opinion. Others seem to plasticy or wear out really quickly. With the mini's you want to keep your tire around the same height... Trenchers are great for mostly off-road, but if you do any paved surfaces Dirt Hawgs would be my choice. Be sure to mount them on a lightweight plastic rim.

    6) This is what I had when I very rarely walked away broke.

    Steel hollow balls (7028x) to reduce slop
    3M mushroom tape along battery doors to hold the body on
    Aluminum knuckles to reduce slop and add strength (I had HR but recommend GPM or GH)
    A BlueBird 390 servo due to the stock being known to fry/strip itself
    RPM a arms at all four corners (Front-80692, Rear-80602)
    Center differential (7014) upgrade to help handle the power of
    2200mah 2S 20C LiPo's ran in parallel for ~1 hour run times
    23/50 gearing gets me to ~30mph yet keeps temps in check
    Shimmed front and rear bulkheads... *LINK*

    Especially do that last part... extremely cheap preventative procedure.
    Whatever it is I just typed... could be wrong.

  3. #3
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    WOW! Thanks for the quick response Jimmie! :-)

    I'm pretty new to cars / trucks.. so I want to drill down to ensure I understand everything you said, as that's great info for you to give me! I greatly apprecitate it!

    1) It seems you may have missed stage 1 of the LVD... which is around 3.5v/cell.
    Looks like the manual talks about this as being the 50% drop in performance? Is this the stage one? I think because I was walking around the park with my 14 month old son and wife as I was driving the truck.. I was not going all that fast all the time, so it would have been hard to notice I guess. Does this make sense? Is there any harm done leaving them sit here at 3.2V for two days until I re-charge and run again?

    3) Gearing down is best to make it easier on your power system.
    Does this mean gearing for speed? i.e. a larger pinion gear on the motor = more teeth = more RPM of the drive gear = faster performance with less work from the main motor. Is that the logic? But, yet still have enough torque for some low end power. I guess on this note another good question is what is the stock gears as so I can compare?

    Thanks so much!
    Last edited by cooleocool; 01-18-2014 at 09:27 PM. Reason: Removed alcohol reference.

  4. #4
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. JimmyNeutron's Avatar
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    Yes, 50%/stage 1 at a walking pace would be easy to miss...

    Charge those batteries to storage voltage. Leaving them at 3.2v/cell could allow them to self discharge below the safe point of a LiPo cell. LiPo packs should always be brought up to at least storage voltage within a few hours of a run.

    Gearing down will slow the RC... but it will accelerate quicker.
    Bigger pinion = more work for the motor, not less. Bigger spur would mean less work for the motor... or a smaller pinion. The best way I can explain it: your shoulder is doing the work... hold a 5 pound weight at your chest. You can probably hold it there for a while. Now, hold that same weight with your arm fully stretched out. Most couldn't hold it there for anywhere near the time they could hold it at their chest. Your shoulder is the motor, because the motor is doing the work. Now the spur is best described by leverage... the further out from the center of the input shaft of the transmission, the easier the task is.

    It has been too long since I messed with a 16th to be able to tell you stock gearing... lol
    Last edited by JimmyNeutron; 01-18-2014 at 08:38 PM.
    Whatever it is I just typed... could be wrong.

  5. #5
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    Thanks Jimmie. What do you recommend the per/cell to be for storage?

    I guess for the gearing I will just have to watch the temps huh. and base it from there?

  6. #6
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. JimmyNeutron's Avatar
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    Yes... I always base gearing on temp. If it is not fast enough after the right combination is found, you need a better power system.

    Storage is 3.85v/cell.

    I wrote this a while back so not all of it will apply here, however, I feel that it is important to have as much factual LiPo information as possible all in one location. Try not to get overwhelmed... just take it in bit by bit.

    That being said...

    LiPo 101
    now in session


    Rules
    1) NEVER discharge below 3v/cell
    -- If your LVD/LVC is adjustable, set it no lower than 3.4v/cell.
    2) NEVER charge above 4.2v/cell
    -- This setting should be set in your charger.
    3) NEVER puncture your pack
    -- I suggest hard case packs in open chassis RC's.
    4) NEVER short out your pack
    -- When changing connectors, cut only one wire at a time and keep them covered.
    5) NEVER use a pack that has puffed
    -- It is a recipe for disaster!
    6) NEVER charge unattended
    -- If you are not there it will take longer to respond should something go awry.
    7) NEVER charge at a higher C rate than recommended
    -- Those limitations are there for a reason.
    8) NEVER use a pack that has been over charged/discharged
    -- Even 1 time is enough to damage a pack.
    9) ALWAYS check cell voltage before connecting your pack to anything
    -- A $5ish cell checker is available via eBay.
    10) ALWAYS keep your LiPo pack well balanced
    -- Most of the LiPo horror stories come from a time before balance chargers.

    To calculate the charge rate of your pack
    mAh x charge C rate / 1000 = charge amps
    For example:
    A 2200mah 20-40C pack that states a 2C charge rate.
    2,200 x 2 / 1000 = 4.4
    This battery pack can be charged at 4.4 amps.
    - Please note that if no charge C rate is stated, 1C is standard.

    To calculate the constant discharge rate of your pack
    mAh x minimum discharge C rate / 1,000 = available amps
    For example:
    The same 2200mah 20-40C pack.
    2,200 x 20 / 1000 = 44
    This battery pack can consistently provide up to 44 amps.

    To calculate the peak/burst discharge rate of your pack
    mAh x maximum discharge C rate / 1,000 = available amps
    For example:
    Again, the same 2200mah 20-40C pack.
    2,200 x 40 / 1000 = 88
    This battery pack can provide a peak discharge rate of up to 88 amps.
    Peak rates are limited in time... unfortunately, this amount of time does not have an industry standard. This is how a lot of inflated discharge ratings can be claimed. In my experience, honest retailers/manufactures of packs will list the constant discharge rating along with the burst discharge rating and not only the burst rating.

    Ratings
    When setting up your power system for your RC, make sure that the lower discharge C rate matches or beats the continuous amperage rating of the ESC. I try to beat it by at least 10-20%. This practice will provide you the most out of your system and it will also keep your batteries from working too hard. A LiPo should NEVER be hot... during use or charging. If it is exceeding recommended temperature limits, you are abusing the pack. Also, the less your pack has to work the longer it will last.
    LiPo's perform at their best once they are between 100F - 120F. Do not exceed these temperatures. This is yet another reason to have a temperature gun in this hobby.

    Parallel
    Running two LiPo's in parallel will double run time and also your available amperage... which is handy for high demand systems. Some misinformation I have read about the discharge C rating of packs in parallel is that the rating of the pack doubles. This is not the case. The C-rating of a battery pack is a fixed parameter of that pack; well actually it is the cells within the pack that have the C rating. Connecting two packs in parallel does not change either pack as they still have the same specifications, however it does create a battery "system" with twice the effective C rating. The packs are the same, but the parallel system is now theoretically capable of discharging at twice the amp rate. This is much like the cumulative capacity available when connecting two packs in parallel.
    The packs ran in parallel MUST be of the same cell count and should be the same age, capacity, and brand.

    Series
    Running two LiPo's in series will double voltage, therefore nearly doubling the speed of your RC. Capacity remains the same. The two packs ran in series MUST have the same capacity and discharge rate. Also, they should be of the same age and brand.
    Be prepared to gear down when increasing voltage on your power system.

    Charging
    There are many charging options out there... it can get really confusing really fast. The best advise I can give is to get the absolute best charger you can afford and to ask before you purchase. Your charge system is the backbone of your electric RC hobby, treat it as such. RC's will come and go, but your charge system will remain.

    The following features are what I consider to be the absolute bare minimum for a charger... balance charging and a storage charge/discharge feature. If the charger cannot perform these tasks, look for another charger. If you are going to be charging multiple LiPo's at the same time or 10th scale or larger packs, I recommend getting a charger that is capable of at least 10 amps or more. Also, ANY half-decent charger can charge multiple LiPo's at a time. It does not require a dual or multi-charger to perform such a task. It only requires the right support equipment... such as a ParaBoard (which I use), or a Traxxas dual charge board. The ParaBoard charges the packs in parallel and the Traxxas board charges them in series.

    Storage
    Storage voltage is 3.85v/cell. This voltage is the only voltage that is not super critical for LiPo. Anywhere between 3.5-4v/cell is considered to be acceptable for short term storage. If the pack is going to be stored for more than a few days, bring the pack closer to 3.85v/cell. I suggest putting a full pack to storage voltage if it is not going to be used within 30 hours or so. The longer a pack is at full capacity, the shorter its lifespan will be. I also suggest bringing a pack up to storage voltage shortly after a run. When a LiPo's voltage lowers to a certain point, they begin to loose their voltage quickly. I would hate to see you loose a pack (or more) due to not charging up within a few hours after a run.

    For long term storage; I bring my packs to storage voltage, seal them in an airtight container, and stick them in the refrigerator. As I type this, I have had my "speed" set of 3S packs in the fridge for over 8 months at storage voltage... I check them monthly and they are still at 3.85v/cell. Almost makes me regret buying them. lol

    Making your LiPo's last
    I will give an example of how much a small change in how a pack is taken care of can dramatically change how long the pack can be safely used: Two identical packs were both charged and discharged in the exact same matter.... except one pack was charged to 4.20v/cell and the other to 4.10v/cell. This was done in a very controlled environment... not in an RC. After 500 cycles, the pack that was charged to 4.20v/cell had reached its life expectancy... it would not take more than 65% of its original capacity; meaning the LiPo was no longer able to be used safely. The pack that was charged to 4.10v/cell was still at 70% capacity after 1,000 cycles... so the .10v/cell difference more than doubled the life expectancy.


    I hope this information helps!!
    Whatever it is I just typed... could be wrong.

  7. #7
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    So.. another run with the summit today on the 3S. Again, love this thing! LOL…

    This time, I was alone with the truck at the park and was paying close attention for the 50% drop off (stage 1 LVD) and it never happened.. or.. I should say I noticed a low throttle for about 30 seconds.. and then, bam.. zero. (saw slow blinking red light telling me LVD stage 2 kicked in). Great. Another low 3.2V. (not how I want to treat the Li Pos).

    Once again, I get home and this time I just connect to my charger (Fancy HiTec X4 I use for my planes).. and charge at 1C (1.4A) and after about 65min, I notice it has returned MORE then 1400! It was getting close to 1500. SOB! So, I stopped it.. aaarrrgg.. looks like I am already messing up the packs. Perhaps I should have broken them in by only running for a few min the first few charges? Then, gradually ramp up to the full run time? Thoughts?

    Anyway.. I am not seeing any 50% drop at 3.5V.. and the little bit I did see was seconds before it just stopped. For reference the run time was apx. 45min, fast, and slow driving around the park. x2 3S 1400's.

    I noted the temps on the heat sink towards the end around 175'ish. ESC around 150F.

    What do you think?

  8. #8
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. JimmyNeutron's Avatar
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    It is not uncommon for a pack to take more mAh than it is rated for... at least for decent brands. I charge by voltage only.

    A LiPo alarm may be what you want then.... they are cheap, programmable, and very loud.

    $2.17 from China:
    http://www.ebay.com/itm/1-8S-Checker...item5d3dfb3256

    $4.01 from USA:
    http://www.ebay.com/itm/1-8S-2-in-1-...item58a81a6f8b
    Whatever it is I just typed... could be wrong.

  9. #9
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    Thanks Jimmie! I had a feeling this was going to be the solution. Let me ask you this.. Is there another ESC (Castle perhaps) that I can replace the stock one with, and use the Castle Link to program a cut off that I want? Granted, this is not the cheap option.. but, I was wondering which one would be the best for the brushless 1/16 summit. Also, one thats water resistant too.

  10. #10
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. JimmyNeutron's Avatar
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    The SV3 is a decent option... but I don't know how well it handles 3S.
    Whatever it is I just typed... could be wrong.

  11. #11
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    Yeah, I was just looking at the SV3. It says up to 3S. Must be okay then? I can use my existing motor with this right? I don't need to buy a new motor or anything like that?

  12. #12
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. JimmyNeutron's Avatar
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    I know it is rated for 3S, but I do not know how well it handles 3S... for instance, the 3S ESC from Traxxas is rated for 3S... but it cannot handle 3S continuously.

    Yes it will work with your existing motor... you will need a short 3 wire harness with 4mm male bullets (not banana) one one end and 3.4mm sockets on the other to hook the motor up and then a TRX connector for the battery input wires.
    Last edited by JimmyNeutron; 01-20-2014 at 06:46 PM.
    Whatever it is I just typed... could be wrong.

  13. #13
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    Hummm… maybe I should by X2 2S 2200's and run them in Parallel so I get 4400mAh for longer run times (an hour?).. and then this will also run the motor a little cooler too I would assume.. and better for the ESC. (stock or the SV3).

    I wonder whats the performance difference from 2S to 3S? Is 2S like the stock included battery when it's fresh?

    All I know is that I love the power and speed of the 3S I have now!

  14. #14
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. JimmyNeutron's Avatar
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    2S and stock NiMH... on paper, they are similar. In the real world there is no comparison. 2S is not as fast as 3S, but a whole lot more punch than stock. Somewhere in the middle.

    I had 3S and 2S... I chose to run the 2S packs way more often. 3S just was too much.

    Twin 2200mAh packs in parallel will give you approximately 1 hour run times. SPC has 2500mAh 2S packs for $20ish when they are in stock if you are interested.
    Whatever it is I just typed... could be wrong.

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    Yeah, I think I am going to do this.. I am going to go with x2 2S packs.. and get a longer run time.. I may even get more then an hour.. the two 3S's (2800mAh) total gave me 45min (but at the 3.2V level).. so.. I bet 30min would have been fine.. so, if 2800 gave me 30min, (for the type of running I was doing).. then, I should see loads more then an hour yeah? I would have almost 5000mAh with the twin 2S's.

    It looks too like I should keep the back springs a little soft, and the front a bit harder for better anti roll over performance? Is this correct? I saw in another video where they tested that, and the simple adjustment seemed to make a big difference.

    I also decided to order the SV3 (Castle ESC).. this way, I can just program the 3.5 / 3.6 cut off as I want (I already use the Castles in some of my pricy quad copters, and love them and the castle link interface). and $80 is not a big deal for me, especially if it's water resistant like the stock one.

    So, it appears the benefits of the 2S are:

    1. Longer run times (about twice as long).
    2. More control of the truck, less apt to flip for no reason
    3. Better heat results from longer run times, as it's less voltage.
    4. Better for the ESC, as now I will not be running it to the max (3S)
    5. Better for the rotational parts on the truck, as they won't be working quite as hard vs. 3S.

    I think the speed is relative as you mentioned.. I think that in most cases I was not even seeing the full effects of 3S anyway, as I was not trying to do speed runs.. therefore, I guess it was pointless to start with.. the only time I was really seeing it was plowing through grass, and long transitions from patent to off road.. and this is where I would most likely burn up the system anyway (especially grass at full throttle).. as the truck does not "look" like its going fast, but it's "working" very hard for what it is doing.. and this I can see turning fatal at some point (motor / ESC heat issues).. especially in Miami! LOL.

  16. #16
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    Quote Originally Posted by Jimmie Neutron View Post
    It is not uncommon for a pack to take more mAh than it is rated for... at least for decent brands. I charge by voltage only.

    A LiPo alarm may be what you want then.... they are cheap, programmable, and very loud.

    $2.17 from China:
    http://www.ebay.com/itm/1-8S-Checker...item5d3dfb3256

    $4.01 from USA:
    http://www.ebay.com/itm/1-8S-2-in-1-...item58a81a6f8b
    So how do these work just bought 3 of them off e bay, I've been trying to understand all the talk about libo's but really haven't
    Got a clue what anybody is talking about etc charging descharging, cells ,what to use volt wise ,2 3 4 5 ?lvn,I'm lost,guess what I'm saying is Help

  17. #17
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. JimmyNeutron's Avatar
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    Sounds like you have quite the plan!!

    Quote Originally Posted by Popasmurf View Post
    So how do these work just bought 3 of them off e bay, I've been trying to understand all the talk about libo's but really haven't
    Got a clue what anybody is talking about etc charging descharging, cells ,what to use volt wise ,2 3 4 5 ?lvn,I'm lost,guess what I'm saying is Help
    There is a button between the speakers. When you press that it will cycle through the settings... I suggest a low voltage alarm of at least 3.4v/cell.
    Whatever it is I just typed... could be wrong.

  18. #18
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    K thanks now where do u install them

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    Jimmie.. thinking about all the talk we did on my other thread on my 1/8 summit.. (1/10, whatever LOL).. is the 1/16 just setup better for the speed of the brushless vs. the bigger one? In other words, the 1/16 is designed different in some ways to accept the brut of brushless power to start with?

  20. #20
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. JimmyNeutron's Avatar
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    16th Summit will handle brushless better than the big brother... less moving parts.


    Popasmurf:
    On the balance connector.
    Whatever it is I just typed... could be wrong.

  21. #21
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    K thanks Jimmie

  22. #22
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    Thoughts on my after run cleaning for the 1:16 summit..

    So today I got it pretty dirty.. and decided to wash it up.

    I got home, removed the wheels.. and placed the chassie in the sink. I sprayed some simple green on it front and back.. let soak for a min, and then used the detachable sink head to rinse it all off nice. Next, I shook it a bit to get all the water out.. then took a towel and worked it all through the truck best as possible. Then, took a hair dryer and placed on medium heat on Hi, and spent a good 10min carefully and slowly drying the entire truck until I saw no more water anywhere. Next, I went outside and sprayed some WD-40 on everything metal, joints, springs, drive parts etc.. and wiped off excess with a rag. (this kind got messy even with the little red straw in the WD-40 can).

    Thoughts?

  23. #23
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. JimmyNeutron's Avatar
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    I have read that simple green eats copper?
    Whatever it is I just typed... could be wrong.

  24. #24
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    I have read that simple green eats copper?
    Oh, I don't know. I actually only used it on the tires, and wheels.. I did not spray it on the car like I said above.. I miss-spoke because I did the tires last and that was fresh in my mind LOL.


    But, everything sounds good for an on-going regimen?

  25. #25
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    Jimmie….

    When that new Castle ESC shows up tomorrow.. in regards to the programming, do you know any of the settings that I should use? I think there are many different things that need to be set.. such as timing, brake, etc.. etc.. what do you suggest?

  26. #26
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. JimmyNeutron's Avatar
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    Sounds good, yes.
    I am not 100% sure on that copper thing either... it may not be true.

    I set mine with stock timing, no drag brake (increases temps), 3.4v/cell cut off, and 100% punch control. I slowly add punch until I feel there is enough... but not so much that I am replacing parts all the time.
    Whatever it is I just typed... could be wrong.

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    Ah, "Punch Control".. so, there is a setting in the ESC to feather the amount of power delivery to the motor? Would this setting also help in my 1/10 Summit's case, where on the other thread we were talking about the possible brushless upgrade. In other words, with the slipper set to slip a bit more, and possibly an electroinic adjustment like this, perhaps would even up things? LOL.. I know, I am holding on to that one.. but, if I can find away.. and I am learning more and more from just a few weeks with the little 1/16!

    EDIT - Question.. do I understand this correct.. that the 1/16 e-revo's drive shafts are steel, and better then the stock summits. However, I can order the stock E-revo's shafts, and install them on my summit.. plug and play? This is deemed as a good and easy upgrade to save the hassle of dealing with it down the road?
    Last edited by Suntiger; 01-22-2014 at 09:18 PM.

  28. #28
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. JimmyNeutron's Avatar
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    Help, yes
    Eliminate, no

    The power difference between brushed and brushless, especially in 8th scale power systems, is insane.
    Whatever it is I just typed... could be wrong.

  29. #29
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    you will need a short 3 wire harness with 4mm male bullets (not banana) one one end and 3.4mm sockets on the other to hook the motor up and then a TRX connector for the battery input wires.
    Any chance you can send me a link to this? I got the parts today, and I see what you mean :-(

    Also, I stripped out one of the screw holes on the stock motor.. (it was pretty bad, maybe I had a dud..).. anyway.. I now need to replace the motor. Is there a better one I can get to use with my new Castle ESC? What's a good one that is close to stock I can look at?

    Thanks again! Maybe with the new motor the LEDS are long enough and I can just solder on the 4mm bullets and connect to the base of the ESC? Without having to fool with additional wiring etc..

  30. #30
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    Well a bit of an update..

    What I did was this, I cut off the stock leads from the stock ESC. This had the little 3.4mm female bullet connectors already on one end of the wire. I then re tinned, and soldered the other end to a set of new 4mm bullets that I had bought with the new SV3 ESC. So now the 4mm plug directly into the ESC's base.. and then it has a short wire that terminates with the stock 3.4mm ends.. which the stock motor can now simply plug into.

    I had to mount the new ESC to the rear body posts (fits perfect, and made the most sense). However, now I see I should upgrade this (integy) to metal of some type as it's not that supportive. LOL.

    I put the stock motor back in, but only one screw is securing it to the mount as the other hole is completely de-threaded. So stupid! Anyway, I will wither order another stock VXL 380 motor.. or.. if there is a better one from Castle, or whomever that I can just drop right in.. that would be great too!

    Please let me know!

    Tomorrow I plan to carefully test out the x2 2S packs! I programmed the voltage cutoff in the new ESC to stop at 7.4V. This will give me 3.7V / cell, and keep everyone happy. This should also keep at least 20% capacity in the packs too. I will see how it goes, and for how long I can run for! (I know if I decide to use 3S, I will need to change the cutoff voltage or use "auto" and set the per/cell volts… but, I did not want to leave it to chance and decided to use a custom value for voltage).

  31. #31
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. JimmyNeutron's Avatar
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    Great job figuring out how to connect your ESC!!

    How did you mount the ESC to the rear body posts??
    Can you post a picture up?

    There are very few motors that can really compete with the stock VXL for power and price... and weight. The larger motors really screw with handling and make an already tippy RC even easier to roll over.

    3.7/cell is only .1v below storage... are you sure you want to set it that high?
    Also, setting the detection to auto and using the /cell value to trigger LVD is 100% safe... no need to set it up as you described.
    Whatever it is I just typed... could be wrong.

  32. #32
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    Thanks Jimmie!

    Today I did a run with the 2S, and to avoid the hassle of digging the ESC connector out from the water-proof case I just left it alone with the 3.7V cutoff. Figure, I can change it next time / when I put the new motor in shortly..

    Also.. I bought some proline trenchers for it, mounted to desporoto (spelling) wheels.


    Some thoughts:

    - First, yes not nearly the same power as 3S! LOL. But, still fun.. and lots of instant kick. Top speed kinda reminds me of the 1/10 Summit in high gear, maybe a little faster. Yeah, not sure if I will stick with 2S or deal with 3S madness.

    - The new proline trenchers were somewhat dissapointing compared to the stock wheels and tires. The only advantage I can see is at speed. In regards to "off-road" there is no comparison.. the stock tires are far far better for pure traction, and "go anywhere attitude" Many many times I found myself re-flipping the truck as it was stuck and kept spinning with the Trenchers, vs. the other day the stock tires had no issues. Especially in climbs. Pavement, and hard packed dirt the trenchers were nice, and they look better too. (lets be honest, this is why I bought them).

    - The new ESC works great.. but the brakes need to be lessened. Tap the brake now boy, and it flips forward!

    - 3.7V cutoff yielded a 53min run-time, and most was under faster load. Only about 1/3 was slow crawl driving over rocks.

    - Different noise from the motor.. Perhaps it's my pinion backlash?


    Some specific questions:

    1. To set pinion blacklash I took a small piece of "post-it" note, and rolled between the motor and the spur gear. While in there, I then pushed the motor tight, and tightened. After, I rolled the paper out, and was left with a little tiny play as I thought was good. Is this correct?

    2. Can the stock tires be mounted to the pro-line Desporato wheels? I really can't stand the stock wheels.. but love the tires.

    3. Cleaning.. after I wash, and hair dry completely.. is there really a need for WD-40? I found last time it made such a mess of everything.. and I am wondering what *exactly* needs the WD-40.. and perhaps a better way to dispense it. (eye dropper?). Do I really need to cover every screw ect.. LOL.. If I am drying the water off completely is there still a chance of rust? Some added thoughts.. I almost feel that the WD-40 actually "attracted" more dirt today and has an adverse effect in the end…


    Edited for language abuse. If you see a starred out word in your post, you must edit it out to avoid earning warning points.
    Last edited by cooleocool; 01-24-2014 at 05:44 PM.

  33. #33
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. JimmyNeutron's Avatar
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    I don't use WD, but I have a different cleaning method; air compressor.


    Could try dipping your tools into a small cup of WD and touch each screw. Those are really the only things that rust... besides bearings and if you pack your bearings with grease, you won't have to worry about those so much.

    Stock tires have an odd rim size... I am not sure if they can be modified to fit or not. I do know that stock tires have a Traxxas lay down bead style vs the Desperado's standard bead style. So that would mean modifying the rim too.

    Your mesh was set right... that is how I set mine.

    As far as the new motor noise... the only way to really diagnose that is to make a video.
    Whatever it is I just typed... could be wrong.

  34. #34
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    Thanks Jimmie..

    So to be clear.. the springs, shocks, little metal balls on the end of the arms, rocker's etc.. I don't need to worry about WD-40.. as long as I am completely drying this thing off after washing it.

    Also, I assume there is no need to wash it after every use as long as it's not getting wet in the field. General dirt etc.. can stay on it for a period of time.. and then perhaps every now and again "wash" the whole deal.

    Is this the same thing on my bigger 1/10 Summit?

  35. #35
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. JimmyNeutron's Avatar
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    That is all I do for all of my RC's...
    The springs are coated, so there is no exposed metal to rust.
    The shock shafts might rust, but I have never noticed it happening. If you think about it, when compressed the shafts are getting oiled.
    The little metal balls... the hollow balls... may rust, but I have never noticed it happening.
    The little metal balls... the pillow balls... may rust, but I have never noticed it happening.
    Whatever it is I just typed... could be wrong.

  36. #36
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    Thanks Jimmie!

    So, I ordered some cosmetic stuff from Itegy.. LOL.. oh, boy.. how easy is it to spend some cash there! But, for some worth it.. I know it's all looks and very little function.. but, makes a bit more fun for me.

    Question, the drive axles.. I read somewhere that the stock E-revo ones are better then the stock summit's? For some of the upgrades I bought, I will be taking it all apart anyway.. can I simply buy E-revo drive axles, and they will bolt right on easy?

  37. #37
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. JimmyNeutron's Avatar
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    They are a direct swap... unbolt and replace.
    Whatever it is I just typed... could be wrong.

  38. #38
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    Okay.. great, I ordered them.

    Well, I went a little nuts.. and way way out priced the value of the car in upgrades.. I guess this is what it takes to make it something beyond a kids toy for me.. LOL.. should be a pretty interesting looking truck when it's all done.. Just about everything except the main chassie is being swapped out (Integy).. I also am going to swap out to purple rated springs, with new GTR shocks to help with the extra weight of running two packs.

    I'll be sure to take pics once it's all together!

  39. #39
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. JimmyNeutron's Avatar
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    I didn't realize you wanted a shelf queen... I hope your Integy experience is much better than the hundreds of other threads I have read.
    Whatever it is I just typed... could be wrong.

  40. #40
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    I hope your Integy experience is much better than the hundreds of other threads I have read.
    Oh no! Don't tell me.. it's all crap? What's the common issues?

    I wanted to ask you.. on the 1/16 E-revo driveshafts.. the part where it connects to the chassie of the truck.. is this a simple install? It looks like after I have the A-arms off, etc.. that it's a tiny little set screw and the end comes out (where it appears to go inside the gear box). Or.. do I need to take the whole thing apart?



    Edited for language abuse. If you see a starred out word in your post, you must edit it out to avoid earning warning points.
    Last edited by cooleocool; 01-24-2014 at 05:44 PM.

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