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  1. #1
    RC Competitor
    Join Date
    Jan 2005
    Location
    San Antonio, TX
    Posts
    97

    Rolling on moderate/low braking & binding?

    I recently replaced an old wore out revo 2.5 with an ERBE because I was pining for simplicity, but I just missed nitro, so I picked up a Slayer Pro. I had a very challenging break-in because even with slight breaking, the truck would always veer hard left and the backend starts to come around. Break in was in a large, and pretty good conditioned parking lot. This condition happened regardless of what orientation I was running through the parking lot.

    On the later tanks of full throttle then slow, I had to account for this and tap the brakes correct course, tap brake, correct, etc... three to four times just to get stopped from a full throttle pass. On the final tank of break-in I got a little to agressive on the brake, and the truck ended up in a barrel roll (the backend flipping over six or so times.

    After fixing what broke (was quite a few parts) and cursing more about the nasty road rash left in the pristine body, I was faced with the same thing. I put a ton of preload on the left front shock, and this stopped the condition from happening, but of course any time I would come off a jump, or try and corner with any speed I could count on the left front launching in the air while the right would dip down.

    I stripped a steering servo coming down with a hard landing on the right front tire. So I got a servo rebuild kit and fixed that, as well as trying to get the servo centered, as my steering trim has to be about 75% to the right in order to steer straight. Wasn't able to get the proper travel however, so just left it with the trim because it seems to function right with proper travel.

    I decided to get a center diff and put it in, so while I was tearing the truck down I noticed that the back right of the truck was not returning to level while the rear left was. The back right was sagging something horrible. I looked for broken parts, nothing, no dirt, no gunk, etc... I then adjusted the tightness of the seals over the pillow balls, and if I left the top one sloppy loose then I could get full travel, but the wheel would wobble horribly. As soon as I tightened it just enough to not wobble, the suspension seemed to bind again on the top a-arm. I flung some white lithium grease in there, and adjusted properly, just tight enough to prevent the axle carrier from wobbling, and now it travels normal.

    I haven't had a chance to run it yet since doing this (waiting on LHS to get the rear brake kit in... which I kind of regret asking them to order simply to support them, because I could have had the part four days ago had I ordered online... anyway, I digress) If you're still reading, I'm wondering two things:

    1: Possible that the strong front left dipping is caused by the rear right suspension sag? Seemed to me it might be because under brake that end could essentially jump up. Sucks that it would be like this out of the box.

    2: I shouldn't have to put grease in the ball of the axle carrier to make it travel right, any thoughts what might be wrong causing it to bind?
    --
    Richard
    ERBE && Slayer Pro

  2. #2
    RC poster
    Join Date
    Jan 2014
    Posts
    1

    Fix for suspension sag

    Quote Originally Posted by Ephur View Post
    I recently replaced an old wore out revo 2.5 with an ERBE because I was pining for simplicity, but I just missed nitro, so I picked up a Slayer Pro. I had a very challenging break-in because even with slight breaking, the truck would always veer hard left and the backend starts to come around. Break in was in a large, and pretty good conditioned parking lot. This condition happened regardless of what orientation I was running through the parking lot.

    On the later tanks of full throttle then slow, I had to account for this and tap the brakes correct course, tap brake, correct, etc... three to four times just to get stopped from a full throttle pass. On the final tank of break-in I got a little to agressive on the brake, and the truck ended up in a barrel roll (the backend flipping over six or so times.

    After fixing what broke (was quite a few parts) and cursing more about the nasty road rash left in the pristine body, I was faced with the same thing. I put a ton of preload on the left front shock, and this stopped the condition from happening, but of course any time I would come off a jump, or try and corner with any speed I could count on the left front launching in the air while the right would dip down.

    I stripped a steering servo coming down with a hard landing on the right front tire. So I got a servo rebuild kit and fixed that, as well as trying to get the servo centered, as my steering trim has to be about 75% to the right in order to steer straight. Wasn't able to get the proper travel however, so just left it with the trim because it seems to function right with proper travel.

    I decided to get a center diff and put it in, so while I was tearing the truck down I noticed that the back right of the truck was not returning to level while the rear left was. The back right was sagging something horrible. I looked for broken parts, nothing, no dirt, no gunk, etc... I then adjusted the tightness of the seals over the pillow balls, and if I left the top one sloppy loose then I could get full travel, but the wheel would wobble horribly. As soon as I tightened it just enough to not wobble, the suspension seemed to bind again on the top a-arm. I flung some white lithium grease in there, and adjusted properly, just tight enough to prevent the axle carrier from wobbling, and now it travels normal.

    I haven't had a chance to run it yet since doing this (waiting on LHS to get the rear brake kit in... which I kind of regret asking them to order simply to support them, because I could have had the part four days ago had I ordered online... anyway, I digress) If you're still reading, I'm wondering two things:

    1: Possible that the strong front left dipping is caused by the rear right suspension sag? Seemed to me it might be because under brake that end could essentially jump up. Sucks that it would be like this out of the box.

    2: I shouldn't have to put grease in the ball of the axle carrier to make it travel right, any thoughts what might be wrong causing it to bind?
    I found sagging suspension in my Slayer. The reason for me was not an obvious one. I separated my drive axels at one time (where the splines are) and found that the sliding action can be sticky. Rotate the two sides relative to each other until you get the best fit. Something that might seem insignificant made a huge difference for me.

  3. #3
    RC Competitor
    Join Date
    Jan 2005
    Location
    San Antonio, TX
    Posts
    97
    I called Traxxas and they sent new rear axle carriers. It didn't make a difference.

    I've barely run the truck and not at all since making this post as it's been pretty much un drivable since the day it came from box. I ended up ripping the back end of the truck off to make sure everything was okay and I noticed that the spur gear and pinion were not lining up properly. The pinion was at an angle to the spur, about 15 degrees, contacting on the back but not the front. Then I noticed that the chassis was not seated in the rear bulkheads right. The entire rear of the chassis is twisted. I was livid when I found this because there's no way this happened from my breakin and two tanks of fuel trying to solve the leaning problem.

    So, I've ordered a new chassis and am on the fence if I will sell or keep the truck once it's fixed. After having to buy a new radio because traxxas wouldn't help me (still within first thirty days of purchase, and radio won't link on my erevo, and guy told me to go buy a new receiver or ESC to troubleshoot why the radio wouldn't link...). I'm livid with Traxxas. I own seven traxxas vehicles between my kids and myself, and think I may have purchased my last due to these problems, and the normally otherwise great customer service completely failing me.
    --
    Richard
    ERBE && Slayer Pro

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