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  1. #1
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. mwe-maxxowner's Avatar
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    Some general maintenance, and a few questions.

    The last hard bashing session with my hcg mt yielded 3 spent bearings. One khdz oversized bearing, which was seized, and two wheel bearings which were, by the time I found them, bits of metal and a race. I believe this is a sign it's time for me to do a good thorough, full on maintenance session.

    I want want to replace all bearings, clean diff's and install 100k rear 50k front fluid, check all my hinge pins, and perhaps doctor on my shocks a bit. I will, of course, take lots of pics and document it all, as boring as some of it may be.

    I do a lot of long, hiiigh jumping with this truck. I run the gtr shocks, and right now have stock rear fluid (35?) And 40 ( or 45 I can't remember) front fluid. I feel with such jumping I may need stiffer springs and maybe 60 front/50 rear shock fluid. The problem is, I also run it around a track and do some offroading with it. Such heavy fluid may hurt me there.

    1) Would the traxxas gtr variable damping kit help me with the large air but let me be soft enough for track use and offroading at the same time while using something like 50/40 or 40/30 fluid?

    2) What springs do I look for to be one step up stiffer from the stock gtr springs?

    I have noticed in going through old bearings that I have ooooold metal shielded bearings that are smooth as silk, while all my rubber sealed bearings seem to get rough pretty quickly.

    3) Would I not be able to get more life and better performance from a set of metal shielded bearings, if I stay away from water?

    When I clean the diff's and service them I would like to go 100 rear, 50 front (50 up front for better steering I hope) diff oil.

    4)How bad is steering with 100k up front? I don't like taking a mile to turn.

    I'm also thinking i might need to think about getting new bearing/axle carriers. Just stock or rpm. I wonder if they are wearing out.

    Is there anything you guys can think of I should check for wear while I'm tearing into this truck? Steering, suspension, or diff's, etc? I plan to go back with stock or rpm parts mostly. I have an ultimate on the way that will have the nicer aluminum carriers and an aluminum steering setup some day.

    This truck was used when I got it, and is simply in much need of a little maintenance.
    460, straightpipes, buried throttle, nuff said :D

  2. #2
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    3 I have experince with metal shielded bearing on my scooter haha I know weird but they don't work good when you run through dirt so I would think that would be the same as rc car bearings too.
    4 I have 100k front and rear and have no problems turns fine and I love it.

  3. #3
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. mwe-maxxowner's Avatar
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    Thanks sir!

    Have you ever tried running it around a track or just doing some tight cornering with it? Or just general offroad bashing?
    460, straightpipes, buried throttle, nuff said :D

  4. #4
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    Basher here dirt only I run 100K F&R and love it.

  5. #5
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    I run lock diff in the rear, and 50k front, it is a good setup for me!
    Summit RX8/1550kv-Slash4x4 MM2/2400kv Twin-V Merv.

  6. #6
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. mwe-maxxowner's Avatar
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    Would you guys clean and refill the stock diff's, clean, refill, and buy/install a rebuild kit, or drop in xo1 diff's while I have it apart?
    460, straightpipes, buried throttle, nuff said :D

  7. #7
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. El Sob's Avatar
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    If I were you, I would get the differential from the XO-1. I believe it has the metal bar inside the differential. That will add strength to the differential and it will withstand more torque. I run 100k in my rear differential and love the added traction, control and stability it gives you. My truck turns over a whole lot less since I have gone with 100k differential fluid. Also with the lcg Ultimate I bought recently I couldn't do full throttle launches on 3s. On rear tird wojld swell up and throw the truck over. Add 100k differential fluid and it launches straight as an arrow now
    Slash Ultimate, ET-3S, 2400, MIP, King Headz, RPM

  8. #8
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. mwe-maxxowner's Avatar
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    That's what I was thinking. Upgrade the diff's while I have it apart, and the xo1 diff's can be had fairly cheaply. I'm tempted to just spend as little as possible and replace the bearings, change diff oil, inspect/clean/go, just to save some time. It will take some time for me to buy much else, but I have another slash en route to my house , so I can stand to have more downtime with it and buy more stuff and install it now if it's smart.
    460, straightpipes, buried throttle, nuff said :D

  9. #9
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. mwe-maxxowner's Avatar
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    While looking around for diff's and such, I discovered I can get a while set of xo1 driveshafts for only about ten dollars more than just the pair of rear traxxas cvds I bought. So almost makes no sense to me to spend 50 more $$ on a pair of front slash shafts when I can get a whole set of xo1 shafts for 66$. Then that means I need to purchase the slash stub shafts so I can use my current bearings, wheels, and hexes.

    Then I noticed I can also get a whole set of aluminum xo1 bearing carriers, chubs, etc for like 45$. This still poses a problem since all of my current wheels are 12mm.

    Would I also need to get 17mm adapters for the xo1 driveshafts? Is there a 12mm hex that will fit?

    If I order the xo1 shafts, xo1 carriers, but use slash CVD stub shafts and slash bearings in the carriers, could that work to use my current wheels for a while?
    460, straightpipes, buried throttle, nuff said :D

  10. #10
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    Quote Originally Posted by mwe-maxxowner View Post
    While looking around for diff's and such, I discovered I can get a while set of xo1 driveshafts for only about ten dollars more than just the pair of rear traxxas cvds I bought. So almost makes no sense to me to spend 50 more $$ on a pair of front slash shafts when I can get a whole set of xo1 shafts for 66$. Then that means I need to purchase the slash stub shafts so I can use my current bearings, wheels, and hexes.

    Then I noticed I can also get a whole set of aluminum xo1 bearing carriers, chubs, etc for like 45$. This still poses a problem since all of my current wheels are 12mm.

    1 Would I also need to get 17mm adapters for the xo1 driveshafts? Is there a 12mm hex that will fit?

    2If I order the xo1 shafts, xo1 carriers, but use slash CVD stub shafts and slash bearings in the carriers, could that work to use my current wheels for a while?
    1 yes there is a kit for 12 mm kit for xo-1 stubs just have to look on the bay.
    2 no because the front bearing by the drive pin is bigger diameter since it's for bigger stubs well when you use smaller stubs then that intern uses smaller bearing which won't fit. I tried this on it didn't work.

  11. #11
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. mwe-maxxowner's Avatar
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    But if I use the smaller stubs with slash bearings, wouldn't that work? If the outer diameter of the xo1 bearings is the same, that is.

    I guess I just want to make sure you completely understand what I mean.

    Use xo1 shafts with the smaller diameter slash stub axle on the end. Use xo1 carriers, but use a slash bearing in the carrier. If the diameter of the hole in the carrier that accepts the bearing is the same as the diameter of the hole in the slash carriers, then a slash bearing should fit in the xo1 carrier, and 'carry' the smaller diameter stub axle. Allowing me to use 12mm stuff i have now while I acquire some 17mm stuff.
    Last edited by mwe-maxxowner; 01-06-2014 at 08:49 PM.
    460, straightpipes, buried throttle, nuff said :D

  12. #12
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    Would I also need to get 17mm adapters for the xo1 driveshafts? Is there a 12mm hex that will fit?

    Yes! i bought this part in tower hobbies.
    http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXDLXV

  13. #13
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    Quote Originally Posted by Wakesurfer98 View Post
    3 I have experince with metal shielded bearing on my scooter haha I know weird but they don't work good when you run through dirt so I would think that would be the same as rc car bearings too.
    4 I have 100k front and rear and have no problems turns fine and I love it.
    Sorry this might be a dumb question but what does 100 k mean does that mean the oil wt if not what is it?
    Keep Calm and Bash On

  14. #14
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. mwe-maxxowner's Avatar
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    Yes 100k means diff oil weight. Hey, it's not dumb if nobody's ever told you!

    The stock diff is 30k up front and grease in the rear, or vice versa, I think. The thicker the weight, the more the diff acts like a positraction diff in a 1:1. The closer the diff comes to acting like it's locked. This comes at some cost, though. Turning performance can be hindered, especially on pavement. Popular weights are 30k, 50k, 100k, and 500k. You can also put silly putty in a diff for a nearly locked performing diff that can slip as normal if under extreme stress.
    460, straightpipes, buried throttle, nuff said :D

  15. #15
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    Quote Originally Posted by mwe-maxxowner View Post
    But if I use the smaller stubs with slash bearings, wouldn't that work? If the outer diameter of the xo1 bearings is the same, that is.

    I guess I just want to make sure you completely understand what I mean.

    Use xo1 shafts with the smaller diameter slash stub axle on the end. Use xo1 carriers, but use a slash bearing in the carrier. If the diameter of the hole in the carrier that accepts the bearing is the same as the diameter of the hole in the slash carriers, then a slash bearing should fit in the xo1 carrier, and 'carry' the smaller diameter stub axle. Allowing me to use 12mm stuff i have now while I acquire some 17mm stuff.
    The bearing that is by the hex pin in the xo-1 is a larger diameter as a hole while the regular slash bearing is smaller diameter in a hole. Say the xo-1 bearing is 0 while the regular slash axle is o the zero is bigger then the o which is how the bearing look. If that makes sense if you wnt I can post some pics.

  16. #16
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. mwe-maxxowner's Avatar
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    Please do! Lol. I think you are saying the outside diameter of the xo1 bearings is larger than the outside diameter of the slash bearings, yes?

    Also, I have some 14mm wheels I've been using with a neat little aluminum 14mm hex with a 5mm hole and a recess made for the smaller roll pin. If I wish to run a 14mm wheel with the xo1 shafts, the wheel hex, roll pin, and wheel nut stock from a brushed emaxx will work won't it?
    460, straightpipes, buried throttle, nuff said :D

  17. #17
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    Exactly so the outer bearing on the xo-1 carriers won't fit the regular slash bearing because it will fit loosely if you still don't understand I can post pics. I have no clue srry.

  18. #18
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. mwe-maxxowner's Avatar
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    No need, I understand what you are saying. So it's still possible, I would just have to order a bearing that has the proper inner and outer diameters. Now that y'all have shown me the 12mm hexes for a 6mm stub axle I don't think I'll worry about it though. I got a set of xo1 axles for 52$ last night. I couldn't resist .

    If you want to upload pictures download the photo bucket app to your mobile device, or use the photobucket.com website. Upload your picture to photobucket. Once that is finished click on the picture in your photobucket album, and that brings up a list of links. You want the IMG link, which happens to be the very last option. Click that link to copy it. Come back to the thread and paste the link. Easy peasy!
    460, straightpipes, buried throttle, nuff said :D

  19. #19
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. mwe-maxxowner's Avatar
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    I have a set of xo1 shafts in hand. Xo1 carriers are on the way, and I'm still mulling over a body. I'm contemplating a very neat theme here. Super top secret of course! Since my usual rule of thumb is not to upgrade until the stock part has proven it can't cut the mustard, i decided to split the difference in price and order one xo1 diff to use on the rear of the truck. I filled the front diff with 100k today and the xo1 diff already had 100k. I have some 3.2 beadlocks with a 14mm hex I'll be using on the truck for now.

    I want to go up one or two spring levels and run either 50wt shock fluid or maybe 40wt with the variable damping kit, sinc it is turning into a heavy truck AND I like to use it to get big jumps.

    I'm finding many compromised bearings as I disassemble the truck. I got an entire set of new bearings for the truck.
    460, straightpipes, buried throttle, nuff said :D

  20. #20
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. mwe-maxxowner's Avatar
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    Above is a picture of the truck in pieces and some of the new parts. Avid revolution bearing set, xo1 driveshafts, one xo1 diff which I will put in the rear, and xo1 carriers all around. Both diff's have been filled with 100k. There was nothing wrong with the rear diff, so now I have a spare! The wheels I want to run are 14mm, so I'm just going to run a wheel hex and wheel nuts from an emaxx for now. Later I will have the 12mm adapters and 17mm adapters so I can run anything I want!



    Above is the rest of the truck I got lazy and opted not to wash the chassis so I could leave the motor and esc and servo mounted up. I sprayed it with some brake cleaner and wiped it down. That will do for now!

    I have a few more parts coming, but they are top secret

    Are any of the stock bearings the same size as the king headz bearing?
    460, straightpipes, buried throttle, nuff said :D

  21. #21
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. mwe-maxxowner's Avatar
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    I forgot the main purpose for my post. Would white lithium grease do well to put inside the diff case oj the ring and pinion? I think the merv guys have begun just running them dry with no problems.

    I am also curious about something. Some of you may remember El Sob's motor bearing mod where he put the motor shaft through a piece of oil soaked foam to protect that bearing. Why could one not do that also at the outputs on the diff's and maybe even on the inside and outside of the axle carriers?
    460, straightpipes, buried throttle, nuff said :D

  22. #22
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    Quote Originally Posted by mwe-maxxowner View Post

    Are any of the stock bearings the same size as the king headz bearing?
    no, the KHZ bearing is 10x19x5

    i wouldn't run the diffs dry, i think stock comes with a lithium grease, i use mobil 1 red synthetic grease in my diffs and it holds up great.
    Last edited by Corex2; 01-22-2014 at 11:20 AM.

  23. #23
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    Quote Originally Posted by raved007 View Post
    Would I also need to get 17mm adapters for the xo1 driveshafts? Is there a 12mm hex that will fit?

    Yes! i bought this part in tower hobbies.
    http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXDLXV
    What's the drill bit for?
    Will the XO axle carriers and steering blocks fit in the Slash a-arms?

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  24. #24
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    And what's a better axle... The XO or the Tekno axles?

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  25. #25
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. mwe-maxxowner's Avatar
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    Not sure what the bit is for. I was assuming it was to drill out the center of your wheel, but I discovered today the threaded part of the stub axle is the same diameter.

    I put foam around my diff outputs to help protect those bearings. I also put foam at the drive hub in the front and where the slipper assembly goes into the rear diff.



    Diff's full of white lithium grease. ↑



    42.5 wt and 1.1mm pistons with the gtr variable damping kit↑

    A few pics of the foam bearing shields ↓


    460, straightpipes, buried throttle, nuff said :D

  26. #26
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. mwe-maxxowner's Avatar
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    Clean!(er)











    I also bought an e-revo mmm mount and fenagled it into my setup. I had it taped to a piece of plexiglass with 2-sided tape. When the tape gets wet on a big jump the esc would come off. I like this better

    Last edited by mwe-maxxowner; 01-22-2014 at 04:17 PM.
    460, straightpipes, buried throttle, nuff said :D

  27. #27
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    Are those the XO drive shafts?

    What's the benefit of the XO differential over the stock slash?

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  28. #28
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. mwe-maxxowner's Avatar
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    Yes sir they are, with xo1 carriers all around. The xo1 diff has an "I bar" inside the diff case bracing it greatly. For only 15$ and already filled with 100k I preferred that to rebuilding my stocker.

    I'm sorry I have no experience with tekno shafts, but I can say it's hard to beat the price of a full set of xo1 shafts. The drawback is to use them withsash carriers and hexes you have to purchase the stub shaft for a slash, or use bearings to fit the larger stub in your slash carriers and get 17mm adapters or the 12mm adapter for xo1 shafts.

    Or you can get xo1 carriers and use emaxx 14mm hexes with 14mm wheels.
    460, straightpipes, buried throttle, nuff said :D

  29. #29
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    So you used the XOs carriers correct? And the link you posted allows you to use the XO stubs with 12mm? Do the XOs front carriers work with the Slash's caster blocks?

    From what I'm seeing online, ONE XO drive shaft is 33.99!

    I'm also couldn't find any fully assembled XO differentials, so the parts I would need to build two is $38. Is that still worth doing?

    Sorry for all the questions. I'm just really interested in this swap and would like to possibly do it as long as I get it straight what I need to do

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  30. #30
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    OK so from everything I've looked at including and the parts exploded views I've come too this conclusion (please correct me if I'm wrong)...

    The XO and the slash share the same A-arms and diff "box." As well as the same castor blocks.

    With that said, the XOs diff is a direct drop in with no mods needed. The XOs axles are a direct drop in with the XOs carriers and steering blocks. In order to continue to use my slash wheels/tires all I would need is the Traxxas part 6869 12mm Hex Adapters.

    I'm also reading that with using the XO carriers you run into some toe-in issue. Is that also correct?

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    Last edited by EmersonSC; 01-22-2014 at 09:28 PM.

  31. #31
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    Yes direct drop in for the diffs never heard of toe issues when using the xo-1 knuckles and I've seen a lot of people use them together. Yes on the Traxxas 12mm hubs. I'm pretty sure they use the same diff covers and everything. Hope this helps man.

  32. #32
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. mwe-maxxowner's Avatar
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    As stated, yes the diff's are a direct drop in.

    The xo1 carriers are a direct drop in. I only see xo1 shafts being the way to go if you also want to upgrade your wheel hexes and or carriers too.

    My truck had plastic carriers and I wanted to upgrade them. The xo1 carriers just so happen to be also cheaper than the slash aluminum carriers.

    You can run the xo1 shafts with stock carriers if you get the proper bearing to fit into the slash carrier and fit around tje larger stub axle. You can also rub xo1 axles with everything else completely stock if you also order the slash CVD stub axle to swap onto the xo1 cvds. Then they start approaching the cost of buying the slash cvds anyway though.

    I bought my first pair of rear traxxas cvds for the slash for almost 50$. I bought a whole set of xo1 cvds for 60$. I also bought a whole set of xo1 carriers for 48$. I don't for see any toe problems with the xo1 carriers. They seem identical with the exception of the bearings. It is possible 17mm adapters throw toe and camber wacky, which could be readjusted.

    Check ebay for xo1 driveshaft sets, they are all over it. Also check dollarhobbyz.com and compare prices. I bought my carriers, driveshafts, and diff from dollarhobbyz.


    If you already have a hex you can use, or 17mm adapters and wheels, you can get by with the xo1 shafts, plus 8 new wheel bearings to carry the larger stub in the carrier. I have 14mm hex wheels to use so i just slapped a 14mm hex from an emaxx on out ot my parts box. If it's been a while you could probably use new wheel bearings anyway. I like that the hex on the traxxas cvds use a roll pin still. That leaves me more options for hexes.
    Last edited by mwe-maxxowner; 01-23-2014 at 08:40 AM.
    460, straightpipes, buried throttle, nuff said :D

  33. #33
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    Could I use the slashes stock 12mm hexs with the XO stubs or do I need the conversion kit?

  34. #34
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. mwe-maxxowner's Avatar
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    You could not, because the hole in the xo1 axle is larger for a larger roll pin. It would take some amazing finesse with a dremel to modify the stock hexes to accept the right roll pin, and the center hole would need to be drilled out. Imo the stock hexes need to be upgraded, because I've stripped countless 12mm rims with stock plastic hexes.

    You can use the stub axles for the slash cvds which are around 6$ each (x 4) and then run completely stock.

    I have chosen to go full xo1 on this truck, and buy xo1 cvds and slash stub axles on my new truck. This way i run my new truck completely stock, and I got a set of spare stub axles for this truck.
    460, straightpipes, buried throttle, nuff said :D

  35. #35
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    Deleted question, realized I was looking at the wrong exploded view
    Last edited by EmersonSC; 01-23-2014 at 09:54 AM.

  36. #36
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. mwe-maxxowner's Avatar
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    Made a run today. 100k sure makes it push in the turns. It'll be great for offroad bashing but I don't like it on the track. I noticed my camber is off quite a bit on one front wheel so I need to adjust there before giving it a fair comparison. It seems a bit more "bouncy" with the variable damping kit and 42.5wt oil. I'm gonna go down to maybe 35 wt and give that a go.

    I have other plans for a body, but this was lying around so I mounted it up. I sorta like it . I have bigger tires I'm gonna mount up too.







    460, straightpipes, buried throttle, nuff said :D

  37. #37
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. mwe-maxxowner's Avatar
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    She has hood stacks! Haha

    I am missing 3 of 4 pro line mounting caps, so I got creative. First I tried wheel nuts. That worked on the threads. But the threaded section of the mount was too short to work with the contours of my body. Hmmm. Let's think. Well, it has the same thread as a slash axle, and I have a whole bunch of broken axles!

    I threaded stubs into the front mounts and used the wheel hex pin hole for a body clip to go through. I needed the rear mounted too low to use the long posts. So I found some rustler front axles. I secured them in place with a bent nail and let the threads stick up. Wheel nuts thread onto this to hold the back in place.

    Rear



    Front

    Last edited by mwe-maxxowner; 01-23-2014 at 04:13 PM.
    460, straightpipes, buried throttle, nuff said :D

  38. #38
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    So what weight oil are you using in your front and rear diffs?

  39. #39
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. mwe-maxxowner's Avatar
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    I have 100k in both. It is great offroad. Not the best on a track though. Once my lcg is up and running this will be for offroad bashing and large jumps though.
    460, straightpipes, buried throttle, nuff said :D

  40. #40
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    Quote Originally Posted by mwe-maxxowner View Post
    I have 100k in both. It is great offroad. Not the best on a track though. Once my lcg is up and running this will be for offroad bashing and large jumps though.
    I do a mix of both. Would you say 50k is a better choice for the front?

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