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  1. #41
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    anybody using T Bone Racing Skids ?

    Got my T-Bone Racing Skids today.
    nice stuff ...

    Is anybody else here using their stuff ?

    @WesleyK: so curious about your bulks !




    That's one serious wheelie bar ... maybe too big


  2. #42
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    Yep it's huge. I also have the center skid and the rear skid, love them. I don't feel the need for a wheelie bar, as the rear skid does exactly the same and mine is still in mint condition after a year.

  3. #43
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    ... too bad I can't try the skids on ... as both, the young and the old guy, are striped down now after the Wood Incident (post #38) ...
    the wheelie bar seems to be as wide as the whole ERBE ...

  4. #44
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    ..... pretty big ...
    Too big for bashing ?


  5. #45
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    Might be, depends on how high it sits I think? It should be pretty much indestructable though.

  6. #46
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    I'll try it as soon as one of the guys is back to life ...
    Where did you buy yours ?
    Paid EUR 30,- customs ... ordered directly at TBR.

  7. #47
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    I bought mine at the store where I bought my E-Revo. Can't remember what I paid, but probably was way overpriced, like everything else here.

  8. #48
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    I've got the full t-bone setup (minus wheelie bar) on the MERV, but not yet on the ERBE (don't like wheelie bars on off-roaders), would love to hear how you get on with it!?

  9. #49
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    Hi guys,

    got some work to do ...



    ordered from two stores at the same time, one in Germany and on in the US ...
    today the parcel from the US arrived ... sill waiting from that in Germany
    side note: I live approx. 300km (190miles) away from the German Border (Austria)

    Anyway, got all the parts for the inside of the Diff ...
    now the fumbling part begins

    just wondering where to find the thread with all the LOSI Diff shim explanations ???
    does anybody know ?

    thanks

    Florian

  10. #50
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    Niiiiice, titanium nitride coated gears. We should have clear diff cases to use these gears

  11. #51
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    titanium nitride ????

    they are so expensive that I was assuming they are 24k Gold ... ???

    in the meanwhile I found the thread about the shiming ... MITCH316 did a nice documentation about it.
    http://traxxas.com/forums/showthread...6-ERBE-rebuild

    is anybody else shiming inside the diff ???
    Mitch316 did not ...


    thanks

  12. #52
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    1/10 or 1/8 ???

    Got my blue Pro Line Closed Cell foam today.
    but as you can see the 1:10 Truck closed cell foam is way to small for the Road Rage and of course for the Trencher X (both 3,8")



    after some research here I found out that the Revo is a 1:10 Truck with some parts from a 1:8 Truck ...

    If this is true, I would need these blue foam for 1:8 Trucks right ?
    But I've not seen something like that on the PL website ...

    could anybody help me out here ?
    what foam are you using ?


    Thanks

    Roschko

  13. #53
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    depends who you ask 1/8 or 1/10....I think it a 1/8 jm2c..
    shimming in the carrier, usually not need..
    Would you go flip my truck back over??

  14. #54
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    Quote Originally Posted by 87 GN View Post
    depends who you ask 1/8 or 1/10....I think it a 1/8 jm2c..
    shimming in the carrier, usually not need..

    Thanks !

    any suggestions concerning the foam ?
    what do you have in your tires ?

  15. #55
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    my fault on the foam thing ...

    http://prolineracing.com/foam/vtr-cl...truck-inserts/

    there is foam for 1/8 Trucks on the PL Website ...
    however, does not look like it would fit for the trencher's ...
    maybe for the road rage ?

  16. #56
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. 87 GN's Avatar
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    I think you need to find the correct foams that fit that tire. I use the foams that come with the tires, and don't cut any of the foam off, shove it all in there it will fit. Did the tires not come with foams?
    Would you go flip my truck back over??

  17. #57
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    They did.
    But I am worried about water ...
    Had some water in my badlands ...
    The trencher and the road rage came with the same foam.
    Trencher's for sure are twice as big as the road rage ...
    So I have my thought's about the foam that comes with tires ...

  18. #58
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    Quote Originally Posted by roschko View Post
    titanium nitride ????

    they are so expensive that I was assuming they are 24k Gold ... ???

    in the meanwhile I found the thread about the shiming ... MITCH316 did a nice documentation about it.
    http://traxxas.com/forums/showthread...6-ERBE-rebuild

    is anybody else shiming inside the diff ???
    Mitch316 did not ...


    thanks
    I started a thread for my lst2 conversion and posted a bunch of pics on assembling the diff and shimming it.

    http://traxxas.com/forums/showthread...-LST2-diff-mod
    Revo OS 21 TM
    EMBE 6s
    ERBE 6s
    Summit 4s

  19. #59
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    Yep the coating is Titanium Nitride, best you can get for this kind of usage. Very high resistance against wear, should increase the lifetime if shimmed properly.

  20. #60
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    Quote Originally Posted by roschko View Post
    titanium nitride ????

    they are so expensive that I was assuming they are 24k Gold ... ???

    in the meanwhile I found the thread about the shiming ... MITCH316 did a nice documentation about it.
    http://traxxas.com/forums/showthread...6-ERBE-rebuild

    is anybody else shiming inside the diff ???
    Mitch316 did not ...


    thanks
    I did shim my diff mate...Post 26 and 28, Post 52, Post 157, Post 161 and Post 301 is all I could find on shimming...its been a while since I have been through my thread. I hope this helps .
    Rock n Rolla !

  21. #61
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    Quote Originally Posted by MITCH316 View Post
    I did shim my diff mate...Post 26 and 28, Post 52, Post 157, Post 161 and Post 301 is all I could find on shimming...its been a while since I have been through my thread. I hope this helps .
    Sorry,
    read only post 26 ... my bad.

    thank's

  22. #62
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    Quote Originally Posted by WesleyK View Post
    Yep the coating is Titanium Nitride, best you can get for this kind of usage. Very high resistance against wear, should increase the lifetime if shimmed properly.

    yes ... IF shimmed PROPERLY
    last parts arrive in the middle of next week ...
    so there is time for doing some research ...

  23. #63
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    Best is to run them without shims for a few runs, and shim the afterwards, then you'll be sure that the mesh is perfect.

  24. #64
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    Quote Originally Posted by WesleyK View Post
    Best is to run them without shims for a few runs, and shim the afterwards, then you'll be sure that the mesh is perfect.
    ... that would double the work
    but it sounds plausible ...

    thanks for the hint!

  25. #65
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    Yep I know, I know some people just take a cordless drill to turn the input shaft for like 5 minutes.

  26. #66
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    ... Diff care

    after I broke both bulkheads (post #38) I thought this is a chance to inspect the Diff's and lubricate the bearings.

    The gears are looking good as far as I can judge that ...



    Bearings were pretty dry, so this was good invested time ...
    I cleaned and filled them up with lithium grease.




    Seams that I used a too aggressive detergent for the gaskets ...
    they grew a little have to buy the whole diff carrier (TRA3978), you can't buy the gaskets alone.
    on the pic there is a new and a old one side by side ...




    Is it advisable to shim used stock diff's ?


    Thanks
    Roschko
    Last edited by roschko; 01-17-2014 at 04:46 PM.

  27. #67
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    Quote Originally Posted by WesleyK View Post
    Yep I know, I know some people just take a cordless drill to turn the input shaft for like 5 minutes.
    sounds better ...
    I'm lazy

  28. #68
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. 87 GN's Avatar
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    Is it advisable to shim used stock diff's ?

    best time to do it........
    Would you go flip my truck back over??

  29. #69
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    What do you think about 100k front and 50k rear ?
    I don't use a center diff ...

  30. #70
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    I like 120k F&R, no center diff...... A BL has so much power it can make the Diffs (diff) with a bump of the throttle....
    4s or 6s. So unless you are racing I would use a thicker / heavier diff fluid..
    Last edited by 87 GN; 01-18-2014 at 05:05 PM. Reason: not done ha
    Would you go flip my truck back over??

  31. #71
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    No racing ...
    Just casual chill out bashing

    A friend told me the rear diff fluid should always be thinner ?

  32. #72
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    Quote Originally Posted by roschko View Post
    No racing ...
    Just casual chill out bashing

    A friend told me the rear diff fluid should always be thinner ?
    I would agree with 87 GN, thinner would only be better if you were racing to make better turning radius` from more slippage.

    Unless you need to make very tight turns with speed, I`d recommend 70-120k.


    To post #69: I always thought you wanted more slip in the front than the rear, if you planned on having a difference between front and rear.

  33. #73
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    Hmm..
    Don't know ...
    The guy who told me that is from my LHS ...
    He's in the bussines for over 30 years and I thought he should know ...


    I only have 100k, 50k and 500k ... can I mix 100 with a drop of the 500k ?

    Thanks you guys

  34. #74
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    you can mix fluids....

    SumRevo is a brushed Dewalt, (crawler) I had 700k in both diffs until I locked both with JB weld in the carrier. Do NOT lock the diff in a BL Revo. Handling will be terrible and hard on the diff. You are correct if you want to split the fluid the rear needs to be thinner. Again jm2c 100k F&R. I would also consider adding some 500k say 1/4 of the cup and the rest in gears and 100k. As you prob know make sure to get all the air bubbles out before installing the ring.
    Would you go flip my truck back over??

  35. #75
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    Quote Originally Posted by 87 GN View Post
    You are correct if you want to split the fluid the rear needs to be thinner.
    Good to know, I always thought it was the other way around.

  36. #76
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    trying to remember stock is 30k F&R. at one time racers went to 50k front and 30k rear..
    Would you go flip my truck back over??

  37. #77
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    My reasoning is its the front end you want to "diff" out more when cornering. So my thought was lower weight fluid would benefit the front.

    But Im not a racer, so thanks for the tidbit.

  38. #78
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    Quote Originally Posted by 87 GN View Post
    you can mix fluids....

    ... Again jm2c 100k F&R. I would also consider adding some 500k say 1/4 of the cup and the rest in gears and 100k. As you prob know make sure to get all the air bubbles out before installing the ring.
    Hi,
    I guess I'll go for 100k in the rear and as you suggested 100k plus a bit of 500k for the front diff.
    Yes I know about the bubble thing. How long does it take to get all the bubbles out there ?
    Is there anything I have to do or are they coming out there on there own ?
    I thought about fixing the diff case in a vise and wait a couple hours ... maybe move the gear from time to time ???

    thanks

    Roschko

  39. #79
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. 87 GN's Avatar
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    best to let it set, no movement of the gears, a couple of hours should give it plenty of time to let the air bubbles work there way out. Start with a little fluid then put in the gears, top off with a little more and let set. If you move / turn the gears it will put more air in the fluid..
    Would you go flip my truck back over??

  40. #80
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    Quote Originally Posted by 87 GN View Post
    ... If you move / turn the gears it will put more air in the fluid..
    OK good to Know

    Thanks a lot !

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