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Thread: Project: Reaper

  1. #1
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    Project: Reaper

    I've never posted a project build of my maxx before so i figured might as well make one, any advice, tip and tricks or hows to's is appreciated .... after doing a lot of reading and spending months with my truck sitting in pieces waiting for parts, i can finally start building it and get back on the road

    i started out with a 3905 model and loved it right outta the box, super fun, fairly fast and just a blast to drive. As time went on i always wanted to do upgrades....this however is where i fell victim to the "quality" made parts from INTEGY .. i bought everything from there as i was unaware of the horror stories behind their parts, i know i know BIG MISTAKE. this was my truck before

    after only a few runs my truck was cover in oil cause the shocks leaked faster then i could fill then, the bushings in the suspension arms would constantly pop out of place and it all just became too much of a hassle trying to keep up with it after every run something going wrong.
    luckily for kijiji i was able to sell most of the parts and make my money back so i started from stock again and just decided to drive the truck until something broke.

    Running nimh batteries, i soon got tired of charging them for hours and barley getting any performance so i upgraded to lipos. i was told you can run them with the stock motors, but that is FALSE, the truck ran for 10 min then stopped dead, my motors where red hot and completely destroyed. so i upgraded to this

    the mm2 is awesome, ill never go back to brushed again, however after a few runs with this set-up i find my truck once again on the bench, it completely stripped my stock diffs and even destroyed my bearings

    so now this is what my truck looks like


    so i decided to order a list of parts as my new goal was to start building a bulletproof truck
    ue super shocks
    flm hybrid bulks, shock towers, ect..
    rpm suspension arms and carriers
    ect..
    while waiting for my parts i worked on my truck here and there, as you can see i rit dyed my chassis, servos and all rubber boots, i also started working on a decal and this is where the name reaper came into play i found this pic online and after some photoshop i turned it into what will be my trucks new decal


    i decided that my truck is going to have a black and green color scheme, so i sent my new parts out for anodizing cause i absolutely hate the silver look to the truck. i will post pics of those once i get them back hopefully this weekend.

    What i am still looking for though is a good set of bumpers and skid plates for my truck, i was told integy makes good titanium skids, but with my past experiences with them im having trouble purchasing from them again. also if anyone has any other comments as to bullet proofing my truck, much is appreciated
    Last edited by Dann117elite; 12-04-2013 at 08:27 PM.
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  2. #2
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    Good Luck with the Build and Build Thread, we will be watching......
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    thanks man, i probably spent 2-3 hours making the decal, having multiple layers and filters for perfecting color but im happy with the final result i will be posting step by step installation of my truck for all to see. i am planing on many more upgrades still to come, i just have yet to start them as my main concern is putting my truck back together
    Last edited by Dann117elite; 12-04-2013 at 08:49 PM.
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  4. #4
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    Looks good mate. Awesome decal! I have a set of the integy ti skids on one of my trucks. There really not bad. If not your best bet is to keep your eye on ebay and the rc forums for some hcr ti skids. I think you can still get the GA rear ti skid from GA 3mm thick (too thick and stiff imo) but they don't have the fronts.

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    Hey that looks awesome. Might I ask, I noted that you have Velcro all along the side of your stock chassis. What is that for, do you have a cover for your whole chassis against the elements? May I request a picture for you to post utilizing the Velcro all along the side of the chassis? I like the idea of having a "coat" for my chassis because by the time I used to get driving the whole chassis would show signs of where its been.

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    Quote Originally Posted by EMAXXBRUSHLESS View Post
    Looks good mate. Awesome decal! I have a set of the integy ti skids on one of my trucks. There really not bad. If not your best bet is to keep your eye on ebay and the rc forums for some hcr ti skids. I think you can still get the GA rear ti skid from GA 3mm thick (too thick and stiff imo) but they don't have the fronts.
    Okay thanks, would you say titanium would be the best for bashing?
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    Quote Originally Posted by Usman View Post
    Hey that looks awesome. Might I ask, I noted that you have Velcro all along the side of your stock chassis. What is that for, do you have a cover for your whole chassis against the elements? May I request a picture for you to post utilizing the Velcro all along the side of the chassis? I like the idea of having a "coat" for my chassis because by the time I used to get driving the whole chassis would show signs of where its been.
    Yes it is a cover for the chassis, I too had problems with build up of debris and snow ect, I know the trucks waterproof but I can't imagine it being good for the batteries or esc to be completely submerge under snow so I spent some time looking around and found this http://www.outerwearsracing.com/prod...2791&cat=12396 I can post a picture later of my truck with it. Now I just want to start off saying its NOT 100% WATERPROOF it will stop snow and most of the water and debris but some may still get by...it has to breath otherwise the truck would overheat... doing my research prior to buying it I found a lot of people complaining it wasn't fully waterproof, and that it may cause hotter temperatures...I simply ignore this as I said it needs to have some airflow through the material so your truck doesn't get too hot. In my opinion I love this thing it really works good in the winter for snow barley if any snow gets inside of it and it keeps most of your truck dry I would recommend it...using it in the winter isn't a problem for overheating the motor or esc, as for summer months I don't know, I only use it in winter, but for those who wish to use it year round I guess just keep an eye on motor and esc temperatures
    Last edited by Dann117elite; 12-05-2013 at 12:32 PM.
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  8. #8
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    So since HCR skid plates are kind of hard to get and find does anyone have a suggestion on good-quality skid plates that I could use and get now preferably ones that'll hold up for bashing and with my past involvement I really don't want integy
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    Theres not much out there available new for titanium skids for the maxx. GA has the rear 3mm but no fronts.
    Cpm made some ti ones but they don't have them anymore. There was some front ones on ebay but there gone now and you cant get the rears.
    Aluminum ones will just bend if your bashing.
    I don't think you would be too disappointed with the integy ones. I know most all of there stuff is junk cast alum but there skids ARE titanium. Maybe not the highest grade titanium made (I would guess not) but there 2.5 mm thick and pretty darn tough for the money imo. I have a set of them on my 15 pound roadmaxx and although I don't bash that one it did take a pretty hard nose dive on the pavment and it held up good.

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    Thanks, yes and I know what you mean by needing airflow, that is important for sure, even when running the emaxx in snow and cold temps, the esc and motor need airflow, but that is an interesting coat for the chassis, thank you for sharing ! !

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    Quote Originally Posted by EMAXXBRUSHLESS View Post
    Theres not much out there available new for titanium skids for the maxx. GA has the rear 3mm but no fronts.
    Cpm made some ti ones but they don't have them anymore. There was some front ones on ebay but there gone now and you cant get the rears.
    Aluminum ones will just bend if your bashing.
    I don't think you would be too disappointed with the integy ones. I know most all of there stuff is junk cast alum but there skids ARE titanium. Maybe not the highest grade titanium made (I would guess not) but there 2.5 mm thick and pretty darn tough for the money imo. I have a set of them on my 15 pound roadmaxx and although I don't bash that one it did take a pretty hard nose dive on the pavment and it held up good.
    Okay, thanks for your advice I guess I will try the integy ones
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    Quote Originally Posted by Usman View Post
    Thanks, yes and I know what you mean by needing airflow, that is important for sure, even when running the emaxx in snow and cold temps, the esc and motor need airflow, but that is an interesting coat for the chassis, thank you for sharing ! !
    Absolutely no problem I'm here to share as well as learn from the forum and build project
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  13. #13
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    Nice e-maxx.I like the reaper emblem/decal
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    Thanks man I need help finding a body though, any suggestions anyone? I want more of a mean looking one
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    working a bit more on my black and green color scheme, i wanted to add bead-lock rings to my wheels however since i dont have bead-lock rims running trencher tires on desperado rims they will be only for looks. so i found some nice rings and came up with a unique way to hold them in place. i drew out a stencil on paper as to how i'd mount them, using the lids from canned foods to keep weight down i drilled holes and ran 50 mm screws through the wheel to hold the rings in place and used the can lid as a washer to hold it all together, added a coat of black paint to hide it and it looks good to me.....take a look!

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    so as im still looking for bumpers, would you guys recommend titanium for the rear? i know it may not be the best for the frt but if i use plastic bumper mounts it would still have a breaking point, right?
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    Really making me want to dye everything on mine black now lol. Looks amazing man and really liking the decal!! Keep us posted

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    Quote Originally Posted by Dann117elite View Post
    so as im still looking for bumpers, would you guys recommend titanium for the rear? i know it may not be the best for the frt but if i use plastic bumper mounts it would still have a breaking point, right?
    Correct. You could use them on both front and rear just with a plastic bumper mount as a breaking point like you said.
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    Thanks and I agree I like the black look better I'm even getting my metal parts anodize black
    And okay thanks for the advice I would like to run the metal bumpers with the plastic brace I like the look better cause I do not like the RPM frt bumper
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  20. #20
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    okay so i finally got my parts back from being anodized and i have to say when i first seen them i fell in love, im so happy with the way it turned out, my black and green color scheme is coming along perfectly.
    here is everything i got colored
    -the traxxas single motor mount plate (green)
    -the antenna hold down nut (green)
    -the tension loader rings for UE shocks (green)
    -flm shock towers (green)
    -flm hybrid bulks (black)




    here's what the shocks look like

    and here's it assembled

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    i did run into one problem though, one of the holes of the bulkhead braces is missing its threads im in contact with mike from rc-moster i hope i can get another one, then ill have to get it colored again anyone have an idea on how to fix it, i was thinking just to tap the hole but then i'd need a bigger screw
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  22. #22
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    How much did it cost to get those parts anodized or did you do it yourself? Looks unlike anything else I've seen similar to it

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    I know a guy who does it, to remove the blue and do all the coloring it cost me $60 so not too bad considering it looks awesome
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  24. #24
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    Going to look stunning one built but I think you are going to have to go black flm chassi and anodized green chassi braces

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    I guess great minds think alike because that is exactly my plan when I break my stock chassis I'm getting a Fastline machine chassis black and the chassis braces green it'll look so sick ... In other news I managed to find hard-core racing titanium front and rear skid plates they cost about $200 but considering they don't make them anymore I bought them
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  26. #26
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    I'm trying to secure my wing to the flm tower and it's not working out too well with the tekno wing mount, doing some reading I was told the "Mugen mbx5" would work nicely, I can't seem to find that one is the Mugen mbx7 similar to it? Would it line up nicely?

    http://m.ebay.com/itm?itemId=370957615825
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    I cant answer your question about the mbx7 fitting or not but I have read where people have said the mbx6 doesn't fit.I have an mbx5 on order and I ordered it from Amain.

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    Quote Originally Posted by martin34a View Post
    I cant answer your question about the mbx7 fitting or not but I have read where people have said the mbx6 doesn't fit.I have an mbx5 on order and I ordered it from Amain.
    Okay, thanks for the info...I'm gonna try one mod to the tekno mount and see if I can get it to work...

    In other news, has anyone had trouble mounting the body post with an 8 UE shock set-up? I have the flm towers and it seems as ill have to cut and shave the body post down to be able to mount it, is the rpm post thinner then stock?
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  29. #29
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    Have you tried a 3mm tap in the hole yet?

    The anodizing looks great.
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    Quote Originally Posted by Wildman4910 View Post
    Have you tried a 3mm tap in the hole yet?

    The anodizing looks great.
    Thanks a lot man I really wanted this build to be custom and the way I wanted it and the silver just wants cutting it.. Are you talking for the bulkhead braces? A 3 mm tap wouldn't work cause the hole is already larger then 3mm
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    So I'm doing some more work on my truck tonight I sanded down the chassis a bit so that it fits the Fastlane machine bulkheads I ran into two problems though one is the bulkhead seems to hit where the steering linkage attaches to the tie rods so I sanded it down a little but it seems to still be in the way does anyone else have this problem also whenever I turn my Truck on the servo motors won't stop spinning I have them completely apart and the motors are just on full speed turning
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    Okay so I managed to get the servos to stop spinning constantly I guess they have a little adjustor knob in them and by turning it, it stops and starts the motor, but now I have a problem with the servos not self centering
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    Alright so having my servos apart it seems that the plastic pieces that stop the servo from spinning all the way around have broken so the servo needs to be replaced ...I guess I'm going to go with a hitec single servo but I don't know what a BEC is or what's it for? Also I believe you can get one servo that does t need a BEC?
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  34. #34
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    Awesome truck - thanks for sharing.

    The newer Hitec servos are great. I've been running them for years but upgraded my 3903 with a single Hitec unit last year and the performance is great. The big improvement came when I installed a 2 or 3mm shim under the servo saver spring; the steering is so direct now.

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    Thanks ... Do you have the part number of the hitec single servo people use? The one that doesn't need a BEC? Still don't know what that is exactly though
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  36. #36
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    The hytec HS-7955TG is the one I use.

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    Is that one waterproof? Does it need a BEC?
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  38. #38
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    Quote Originally Posted by Dann117elite View Post
    Is that one waterproof? Does it need a BEC?
    No, It doesn't need a external BEC. and its not waterproof.

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    Does hitec make a waterproof one? Or is there a way I can waterproof it
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  40. #40
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    Quote Originally Posted by Dann117elite View Post
    Does hitec make a waterproof one? Or is there a way I can waterproof it
    Yes they make waterproof ones too but all the ones ive seen don't have a whole lot of torque so you would probably have to run two of them. Do a little homework and search around, Someone must make a good strong WP servo.

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