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  1. #1
    RC Racer
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    Shimming my MERV

    Hi,

    My rear diff is starting to make some bad noise and sadly ordering the Team Associated shims that Jimmie recommended on is going to take me a bit too much time and all my LHS dont have them... I went to a local hardware store (home construction metarials) and he somehow found a few shims there, thought the ones he found are 10mm inner ring and 12mm outer ring aprox. where the ones Jimmie posted were 8 in 10 out... should it be ok? or is that size important (so it won't scratch the bearing or anything...?

    Thanks!


    Edited for language abuse. If you see a starred out word in your post, you must edit it out to avoid earning warning points.
    Last edited by cooleocool; 11-10-2013 at 05:57 PM.

  2. #2
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. Jimmie Neutron's Avatar
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    The bearing is an 8x12... and if I remember right only the center of the bearing makes contact with both the differential and the bulkhead... making the 8mm measurement quite important. The 10x12 shim may or may not work...
    Whatever it is I just said... I could be wrong.

  3. #3
    RC Racer
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    crap... im merv-less till i get a new diff then...bummer..

  4. #4
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. Jimmie Neutron's Avatar
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    At this point, with a clicking diff, any shim is worth a try... if it doesn't work you are only out the time and cost of the shims. Either way, I would order the proper parts in the mean time.

    Shimming an already clicking diff only buys time... it will not solve the issue.
    Whatever it is I just said... I could be wrong.

  5. #5
    RC Racer
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    Yeah, I tried. it helps a bit, but the ring gear is still slipping cause the differential teeth are too banged up...

    I'm ordering both shims and a new differential right now...

    From what I can see I got 2 options:
    1. Drive 2X4 FWD - don't know how that will go... anyone ever tried?
    2. Get whats left of the poor differential and then go back to 1, if possible... But, I'm worried the ring gear will be damaged as well...

  6. #6
    RC Qualifier
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    You can run your MERV 2wd no issues


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

  7. #7
    RC Turnbuckle Jr.
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    Try making some temporary shims by cutting them out of shim stock or even thin aluminum. I even used several layers of shims cut from thin aluminum cooking-type foil. It worked until I could find the correct steel shims.

  8. #8
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. mwe-maxxowner's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by barakhav View Post
    Yeah, I tried. it helps a bit, but the ring gear is still slipping cause the differential teeth are too banged up...

    I'm ordering both shims and a new differential right now...

    From what I can see I got 2 options:
    1. Drive 2X4 FWD - don't know how that will go... anyone ever tried?
    2. Get whats left of the poor differential and then go back to 1, if possible... But, I'm worried the ring gear will be damaged as well...
    I ran mine front wheel drive for a few hours on a track and it did very well lol. Rear wheel drive I'd imagine will be just fine.
    460, straightpipes, buried throttle, nuff said :D

  9. #9
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. Jimmie Neutron's Avatar
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    You can put the front diff in the rear... FWD will be much worse than RWD.

    I've never seen a bad ring gear caused from blown diff gears.
    Whatever it is I just said... I could be wrong.

  10. #10
    RC Racer
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    Thank you for all the comments !

    Two more things and I'm good (I think) -
    1. Any pros and cons on running FWD compared to RWD? or in other words, what would be better?
    2. When I go 2X4 should I take out the drive shafts, ring gear, differential and all the rest out? or should I just disconnect the center drive shaft from the ring gear?

  11. #11
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. Jimmie Neutron's Avatar
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    Weight transfer during acceleration suggests you will have more traction with RWD.

    Removing the driveshaft from the pinion and transmission is all that is needed... basically because the ring and pinion will not be there anymore as they will be moved to the back.

    I'm not sure why you would want to remove both driveshafts... then you'd have 0WD.
    Whatever it is I just said... I could be wrong.

  12. #12
    RC Racer
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    Quote Originally Posted by Jimmie Neutron View Post
    Weight transfer during acceleration suggests you will have more traction with RWD.
    Just a thought / trying to learn -
    Because the car is trying to wheelie while using RWD, don't it mean that I will lose control, though, gain it if it's FWD (cause it won't wheelie)?

    Quote Originally Posted by Jimmie Neutron View Post
    I'm not sure why you would want to remove both driveshafts... then you'd have 0WD.
    I meant remove the drive shaft between the ring gear and transmission and the drive shafts between the differential and the wheels (so they will spin freely without the differential). but cool, I'll remove the center piece.
    (Edit: maybe I should have just said the cvd's)

  13. #13
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. Jimmie Neutron's Avatar
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    The shafts between the differential and the wheels are called axle shafts. Removing those means you wouldn't have any way to keep the tires on... unless you break down the axles for the spindle; but that would weaken them.

    The bad differential is going to need to be used to steady the axle shafts...

    The best way to control wheelies is with your finger.
    Last edited by Jimmie Neutron; 11-11-2013 at 11:14 AM.
    Whatever it is I just said... I could be wrong.

  14. #14
    RC Racer
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    Quote Originally Posted by Jimmie Neutron View Post
    The shafts between the differential and the wheels are called axle shafts. Removing those means you wouldn't have any way to keep the tires on... unless you break down the axles for the spindle; but that would weaken them.
    Oh right... I just made a MERV Segway edition haha. thanks!

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