Results 1 to 38 of 38

Thread: dewalt

  1. #1
    RC Racer
    Join Date
    May 2013
    Posts
    168

    dewalt

    so my titan locked up yesterday.
    so that gives me the reason to upgrade.
    so my question is regarding the upgrade.
    im gonna be buying the kit from http://www.kershawdesigns.com/ for the single motor set up.
    is there anything elsee on the truck that i should be upgrading at the same time as the motor?
    i just got done rebuilding the whole truck.
    the only thing that is not new are body mounts and the electronics so i dont kno what else i should buy when i buy the motor.
    im thinking of getting the duel fan set up from kershaw as well but any help with this would be great.
    Thanks.

    Basic punctuation is required.
    -ksb51rl
    Last edited by ksb51rl; 11-02-2013 at 12:45 PM.
    Traxxas summit
    Traxxas rustler vxl

  2. #2
    Marshal ksb51rl's Avatar
    Join Date
    Nov 2006
    Location
    Northern NJ
    Posts
    15,466

    dewalt

    Considering the few I've done, I can only think of a couple upgrades I would recommend. The first is using decent hobby-grade connectors. I don't like the ones KD uses, nor do I like the wire sizes. I prefer two 12AWG or one 10AWG wires with one 5.5mm or 6.5mm bullet connector for the positive and negative leads.
    The other upgrade I would suggest are aluminum slipper pads. I've had a few sets of stock pads explode under brushless or Dewalt power. I actually run a T-Maxx brake disk as a slipper pads replacement, but this requires some modification of the disk and usually the gear cover.
    Alt-248 on the number pad =

  3. #3
    RC Qualifier
    Join Date
    May 2013
    Posts
    351
    I bought their complete kit, Has to solder the negative lead on because it kept slipping off. I have an AL slipper clutch also as an upgrade. But I tell ya, that Dewalt is FUN!

  4. #4
    RC Enthusiast
    Join Date
    Oct 2013
    Posts
    26
    Jus got my dewalt installed all i can say is wow! Wasnt expecting that big of a power gain

  5. #5
    RC Qualifier
    Join Date
    Dec 2011
    Location
    Arkansas
    Posts
    522
    How do you remove the brushes in the Dewalt......I have the 10AWG silicon wire and bullet connectors but haven’t figured out how to get the brushes so I can solder the wire to the lead. That may be a good weekend project.
    SUMMIT, SUMVO, ERBE, EMAXX & REVO 3.3

  6. #6
    RC Qualifier
    Join Date
    Dec 2011
    Location
    Arkansas
    Posts
    522
    Found a YouTube video.........I thought surely it's not that easy.....yep it was!!
    SUMMIT, SUMVO, ERBE, EMAXX & REVO 3.3

  7. #7
    Marshal ksb51rl's Avatar
    Join Date
    Nov 2006
    Location
    Northern NJ
    Posts
    15,466
    Quote Originally Posted by BlackSheep800 View Post
    How do you remove the brushes in the Dewalt......I have the 10AWG silicon wire and bullet connectors but haven’t figured out how to get the brushes so I can solder the wire to the lead. That may be a good weekend project.

    See 1:50 to 2:20.
    Alt-248 on the number pad =

  8. #8
    RC Qualifier
    Join Date
    Dec 2011
    Location
    Arkansas
    Posts
    522
    Thank you sir! I watched a couple on YouTube and that was one of them.

    I'm sure it doesn’t matter but when I solder the bullet connectors on the new motor wires and the other end to the ESC, does it matter which bullet goes where. For example, is it standard for the male bullet to be on the motor end or ESC end; or would it be smart to put the male on the motor side for one wire (+) and the male on the ESC side on the other (-)?

    Or am I over thinking this one?????
    SUMMIT, SUMVO, ERBE, EMAXX & REVO 3.3

  9. #9
    Marshal ksb51rl's Avatar
    Join Date
    Nov 2006
    Location
    Northern NJ
    Posts
    15,466
    Typically, male bullets go on the motor, female on the ESC.

    Much more important is getting the polarity correct since I believe these motors have a small amount of advance timing. Make sure the red wire goes yo the brush with the "+" marked near it.
    I added red and black sharpie to the brush assemblies and the motor endbell so I would be sure to get it correct. I still messed it up once.



    Edit: BTW, the other motor is a 12V Makita drill motor. It was old and it smoked (slightly) less than a week after installation. Not all motors are created equal.
    Last edited by ksb51rl; 11-08-2013 at 12:14 PM.
    Alt-248 on the number pad =

  10. #10
    RC Qualifier
    Join Date
    Dec 2011
    Location
    Arkansas
    Posts
    522
    Good idea! I guess the real fun part is going to be soldering that big 10AWG wire to that narrow lead.

    I was going to use heat shink on the bullets, unless you have a better idea?
    SUMMIT, SUMVO, ERBE, EMAXX & REVO 3.3

  11. #11
    Marshal ksb51rl's Avatar
    Join Date
    Nov 2006
    Location
    Northern NJ
    Posts
    15,466

    Heat shrink works fine for me. I prefer two 12AWG wires over a single 10AWG wire. They offer more flexibility and less resistance.

    I did caps on mine too, just because I could.
    Alt-248 on the number pad =

  12. #12
    RC Racer
    Join Date
    May 2013
    Posts
    168
    thanks for all the info ordered mine Friday morning hoping its here Tuseday, i also got the duel fan set up for it .
    can someone help with a place to get the brushes for the motor i like to have extra just in case as well as brake in on the new motor im hoping that just a 2 mile walk in low gear is good brake in.
    Traxxas summit
    Traxxas rustler vxl

  13. #13
    Marshal ksb51rl's Avatar
    Join Date
    Nov 2006
    Location
    Northern NJ
    Posts
    15,466
    The part number for one brush is 603754-10. The part number for the pair is 493511-00. eBay or any of the online repair parts shops have them but the Dewalt brushes typically don't break and take years to wear out.
    Alt-248 on the number pad =

  14. #14
    RC Qualifier
    Join Date
    Dec 2011
    Location
    Arkansas
    Posts
    522
    Finally got around to soldering new wire and bullet connectors on the DeWalt and ESC.



    SUMMIT, SUMVO, ERBE, EMAXX & REVO 3.3

  15. #15
    RC Racer
    Join Date
    May 2013
    Posts
    168
    got my dewalt today deffently dont like the size of the wires or the connectors so they will be upgraded im running the 17t gear and just driving it around to brake the motor in low gear its got way more power i love it
    Traxxas summit
    Traxxas rustler vxl

  16. #16
    Marshal ksb51rl's Avatar
    Join Date
    Nov 2006
    Location
    Northern NJ
    Posts
    15,466
    Quote Originally Posted by ksb51rl View Post
    Considering the few I've done, I can only think of a couple upgrades I would recommend. The first is using decent hobby-grade connectors. I don't like the ones KD uses, nor do I like the wire sizes. I prefer two 12AWG or one 10AWG wires with one 5.5mm or 6.5mm bullet connector for the positive and negative leads.
    The other upgrade I would suggest are aluminum slipper pads. I've had a few sets of stock pads explode under brushless or Dewalt power. I actually run a T-Maxx brake disk as a slipper pads replacement, but this requires some modification of the disk and usually the gear cover.
    Quote Originally Posted by speedpro22 View Post
    got my dewalt today definitely dont like the size of the wires or the connectors so they will be upgraded im running the 17t gear and just driving it around to break the motor in low gear its got way more power i love it
    It seems we have a consensus forming. We know BlackSheep800 agrees.
    Alt-248 on the number pad =

  17. #17
    RC Qualifier
    Join Date
    Dec 2011
    Location
    Arkansas
    Posts
    522
    And I wound recommend using two 12AWG wire like ksb51rl suggested above. I had already bought the 10AWG and there is just not much room left between the bottom of the motor and chassis. There is NO WAY I could run a bigger tooth spur gear. If I had to do it all over again I would buy 12AWG!!!
    SUMMIT, SUMVO, ERBE, EMAXX & REVO 3.3

  18. #18
    RC Enthusiast
    Join Date
    May 2013
    Posts
    23
    Why is the wire gauge on the motor worry everyone so much? The ESC only has 14 gauge anyways so upgrading the motor doesn't really change anything.

  19. #19
    Marshal ksb51rl's Avatar
    Join Date
    Nov 2006
    Location
    Northern NJ
    Posts
    15,466
    Quote Originally Posted by kikilink333 View Post
    Why is the wire gauge on the motor worry everyone so much? The ESC only has 14 gauge anyways so upgrading the motor doesn't really change anything.
    View electrical components as a system, not separately. Increasing the resistance of one component increases the overall resistance of the system. It does indeed matter.
    Alt-248 on the number pad =

  20. #20
    RC Enthusiast
    Join Date
    May 2013
    Posts
    23
    So the only reason you use the larger gauge wire is to increase the resistance so the motor gets a little less power and therefore can't overdraw the ESC and blow it up?

  21. #21
    Marshal ksb51rl's Avatar
    Join Date
    Nov 2006
    Location
    Northern NJ
    Posts
    15,466
    Quote Originally Posted by kikilink333 View Post
    So the only reason you use the larger gauge wire is to increase the resistance so the motor gets a little less power and therefore can't overdraw the ESC and blow it up?
    Well let's see. Larger gauge wire equals smaller number. I just want to make sure everyone can understand what we are talking about.
    Larger gauge wire, again - smaller number, decreases the overall resistance. I am not worried about the motor getting too much power. Likewise, I am also not concerned about the Dewalt overdrawing the speed controller. It can handle just about anything one Dewalt 820 can throw at it, and I know my batteries can as well. What I am concerned about is reducing the inefficiency of the system. Smaller gauge wire heats up more quickly than larger gauge wire. This heat is lost energy. Therefore I have done what I can to remove as much inefficiency from the system. I chose two 12 AWG wires for the positive and two for the negative to give me the best combination, in my opinion, of current carrying capacity and flexibility. They also fit the higher efficiency 5.5 mm bullet connectors better than what is supplied in some kits. PS, I think they look great too.
    Alt-248 on the number pad =

  22. #22
    RC Enthusiast
    Join Date
    May 2013
    Posts
    23
    Right sorry should have just said larger wire. Yay wire standards. I can get changing the connectors as a physical connection can add all kinds of resistance or what not if it's not connected well but the wire loss difference between 12 and 14 gauge at that length is nothing. The calculator shows both are 0.001 ohms at half a foot. I can also understand worrying about heating the wire but you can't switch out the other 14 gauge from the ESC so that wire is still going to get hot and usually as long as the wire can handle the power and not just burn up outright then you're loss across that isn't going to be so much that it should bother the circuit at all.

    http://www.cirris.com/testing/resistance/wire.html

  23. #23
    Marshal ksb51rl's Avatar
    Join Date
    Nov 2006
    Location
    Northern NJ
    Posts
    15,466
    Just drive a Summit both ways. You will notice the difference.
    Alt-248 on the number pad =

  24. #24
    RC Racer
    Join Date
    Jun 2013
    Location
    Ontario, Canada
    Posts
    223
    Quote Originally Posted by kikilink333 View Post
    Right sorry should have just said larger wire. Yay wire standards. I can get changing the connectors as a physical connection can add all kinds of resistance or what not if it's not connected well but the wire loss difference between 12 and 14 gauge at that length is nothing. The calculator shows both are 0.001 ohms at half a foot. I can also understand worrying about heating the wire but you can't switch out the other 14 gauge from the ESC so that wire is still going to get hot and usually as long as the wire can handle the power and not just burn up outright then you're loss across that isn't going to be so much that it should bother the circuit at all.

    http://www.cirris.com/testing/resistance/wire.html
    I'm all for using the largest wire possible for best current flow, but just as a chain is only as strong as its weakest link, if the ESC has 14 gauge then using a lower gauge doesn't make much sense. About the only reason I might go with the dual 12 gauge would be to make up for the imperfections in the soldering joints and the fact that the cost is minimal.

    And, at such a small length I was surprised to see that, you're right, the resistance is the same so size is negligible

  25. #25
    RC Champion
    Join Date
    Nov 2010
    Location
    u.k.
    Posts
    1,774
    The stock wire for motor in drill is 14 gauge.
    It looks tiny though.
    Any bad resistance will be in poor joints rather than wire size.
    part #398978-00
    Last edited by trax de max; 11-23-2013 at 05:27 AM.
    Problems.The manual's good starting point. Simple

  26. #26
    Marshal ksb51rl's Avatar
    Join Date
    Nov 2006
    Location
    Northern NJ
    Posts
    15,466

    dewalt

    Quote Originally Posted by mikekoz68 View Post
    I'm all for using the largest wire possible for best current flow, but just as a chain is only as strong as its weakest link, if the ESC has 14 gauge then using a lower gauge doesn't make much sense. About the only reason I might go with the dual 12 gauge would be to make up for the imperfections in the soldering joints and the fact that the cost is minimal.

    And, at such a small length I was surprised to see that, you're right, the resistance is the same so size is negligible
    You are incorrect. It's not the same as a bottleneck or a broken chain.
    I like you point about the solder joints. Most people do not realize the solder isn't really a good conductor of electricity. Larger wires in quality connectors means less solder between the two.
    Alt-248 on the number pad =

  27. #27
    RC Enthusiast
    Join Date
    May 2013
    Posts
    23
    It is the same as a broken chain. If the wire is so small that it can't handle the current it will burn up. It's a series circuit therefore the current is constant on each component through the circuit so the chain analogy does work for this. I'll give you the connectors giving a better connection and that solder joints can have some loss but the wire size doesn't change either of those.

  28. #28
    RC Champion
    Join Date
    Nov 2012
    Location
    Nashville, TN
    Posts
    1,756
    Ksb51rl is correct. Resistance in wire is not solely based on the gauge. Rather, it is based on gauge and length (assuming we're using similar high quality wire). So, running it all with 14ga will have more resistance than half 14 / half 12. Minimizing the amount of 14ga wire will reduce resistance, even if part of the chain remains 14ga.

    Granted, I can't say that the length of the wires is sufficient enough to see a noticeable difference, but it could be.

  29. #29
    RC Enthusiast
    Join Date
    May 2013
    Posts
    23
    Right I completely agree that it will change the resistance but the length makes the difference only in the thousands 0.001.

  30. #30
    Marshal ksb51rl's Avatar
    Join Date
    Nov 2006
    Location
    Northern NJ
    Posts
    15,466
    Okay, you wire yours with one 14 and I'll stick with two 12's.

    If you think a system wires with all 14 (weak link theory) is just as efficient as one with my suggestion, you go with that.
    However, I will tell you that your analogy is faulty because we are not testing to destruction. Perhaps a better analogy would be dragging a weight for a distance that is half deep sand and half concrete.
    Alt-248 on the number pad =

  31. #31
    RC Turnbuckle Jr.
    Join Date
    Dec 2004
    Posts
    3,644
    As an Engineer who worked his entire professional career with compressible fluid flow design (very similar to electrical flow) and now with electrical design related to batteries, I can say with no hesitation ksb51rl is correct in his explanations and analogies provided in this thread.
    Last edited by Jakey; 11-23-2013 at 02:24 PM.

  32. #32
    RC Enthusiast
    Join Date
    May 2013
    Posts
    23
    So is your house wired with 0 gauge wires since it's so much more efficient and then your electric bill will be lower? Since then you don't loose the energy to heating of the wire? At this length it's diminishing returns on the resistance change. The 14 gauge wire has 0.002525 ohms per foot the 12 gauge has 0.001588. You can't tell me that 0.5 thousandth of an ohm(since were only talking about a half a foot of wire) is going to change how the motor operators at all.

  33. #33
    RC Champion
    Join Date
    Nov 2012
    Location
    Nashville, TN
    Posts
    1,756
    So if there is a noticeable difference in the two gauges over such a short distance, and the current draw of the motor is still within the design specs of the EVX speed controller, then why would Novak/Traxxas design the controller with wire that couldn't fully handle the current capabilities?

  34. #34
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. rag6's Avatar
    Join Date
    Mar 2008
    Location
    PM me if ya wanna bash at Greenwood Bashplex!
    Posts
    12,944
    I am sure the 775 pulls much less current than the 820...
    Wanna bash at Greenwood Bashplex in Pittsburgh ???

  35. #35
    Marshal ksb51rl's Avatar
    Join Date
    Nov 2006
    Location
    Northern NJ
    Posts
    15,466
    Quote Originally Posted by kikilink333 View Post
    So is your house wired with 0 gauge wires since it's so much more efficient and then your electric bill will be lower? Since then you don't loose the energy to heating of the wire? At this length it's diminishing returns on the resistance change. The 14 gauge wire has 0.002525 ohms per foot the 12 gauge has 0.001588. You can't tell me that 0.5 thousandth of an ohm(since were only talking about a half a foot of wire) is going to change how the motor operators at all.
    Again, an irrelevant analogy. Do whatever you want, but see below.

    Quote Originally Posted by Jws1982 View Post
    So if there is a noticeable difference in the two gauges over such a short distance, and the current draw of the motor is still within the design specs of the EVX speed controller, then why would Novak/Traxxas design the controller with wire that couldn't fully handle the current capabilities?
    The issue I had with the KD kit is not that exactly the wire, but the quality of the wire (and connectors) and the fact that it came with ONE per brush. I know this because I've had a chance to install them and decided not to. I now recall that the kit includes two wires, even if the quality of those wires is still suspect. Traxxas has two wires per Titan 775 motor, and that is the least I would install. Two 14AWG wires of hobby quality are fine to use. Two 12AWG wires will better withstand the fatigue that is inevitable with these machines.
    Alt-248 on the number pad =

  36. #36
    RC Enthusiast
    Join Date
    May 2013
    Posts
    23
    Quote Originally Posted by ksb51rl View Post
    Again, an irrelevant analogy. Do whatever you want, but see below.

    How are exact resistance numbers a poor analogy?

  37. #37
    RC Racer
    Join Date
    May 2013
    Posts
    168
    i got the kit a week ago and it works fine.. i do not like the connectors that came on the kit but them can be upgraded. no need for the wire to be they never get hot so why upgrade... "cause it looks better" sounds stupid to me.
    Traxxas summit
    Traxxas rustler vxl

  38. #38
    Marshal ksb51rl's Avatar
    Join Date
    Nov 2006
    Location
    Northern NJ
    Posts
    15,466

    dewalt

    Quote Originally Posted by kikilink333 View Post
    How are exact resistance numbers a poor analogy?
    Not the resistance numbers, but you trying to compare house wiring (AC/110V) to Summit wiring (DC/16.8V).

    Quote Originally Posted by speedpro22 View Post
    i got the kit a week ago and it works fine.. i do not like the connectors that came on the kit but them can be upgraded. no need for the wire to be they never get hot so why upgrade... "cause it looks better" sounds stupid to me.
    You are welcome to your opinion.
    Last edited by ksb51rl; 01-06-2014 at 03:37 PM.
    Alt-248 on the number pad =

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •