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  1. #1
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    Highly thinking of getting a 1/16!

    Well title says it all! I am planning on getting a Kyle Busch roller and kind of building it myself. I HAD a 1/10 Slash 4x4, have 1/10 Summit, and Spartan. I want a mini for some reason... I wanted a Boss 302 but changed my mind. I have thought about the 1/16 E-Revo but dont like exposed wheels very much. Already had a Slash so don't really want a mini... I need a fast mini, not a Castle powered mini! Should I put the mini Velineon system or is there a better WATERPROOF option?
    Anyways I have gathered a parts list for my build, let me know what I should add or remove please!
    My Future Traxxas 1/16 Kyle Busch
    Traxxas 7051X
    Traxxas 7250R
    Traxxas 7038X
    Traxxas 7018X
    Traxxas 7154X
    Traxxas 3374
    Traxxas 3064
    Traxxas 7381
    Traxxas 6543
    Traxxas 2080
    Traxxas 2426
    Traxxas 7077R
    Traxxas 6522
    Traxxas 7046R
    Traxxas 6540
    Traxxas 6535
    Traxxas 6523
    Traxxas 6543
    Traxxas 6538
    Traxxas 7090
    Also any opinions on high speed road tires? I want pre-glued!
    Last edited by Spartanator; 09-28-2013 at 10:59 PM.

  2. #2
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    I don't really know the part #s but I have a few minis and love them. You can do tons of upgrades but if you want speed at least upgrade the ESC so you can run 3s. And your gonna need to stiffen up the suspension and maybe get a sway bar set. Hpi x patterns are great tires too.

  3. #3
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    wait are you getting each part indavidualy? if so you could posible save some change by going to dollerhobbyz or a ebay chop shop.
    summit /mustang /stampede-2s spc lipo

  4. #4
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    1+ for that ^.

  5. #5
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    I have a castle mini for sale


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  6. #6
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    And it's waterproof


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  7. #7
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. Jimmie Neutron's Avatar
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    Traxxas 7051X
    - Traxxas steel axle shafts... the best out there, but may not be needed. I sure didn't even with my 70+mph Revo.

    Traxxas 7250R
    - Traxxas steel drive shafts... the best out there, but may not be needed. Once I kept wee little stones from getting under the center skid the stock ones held up great.

    Traxxas 7038X/7018X
    - Traxxas aluminum rods... it is a toss up between that and GPM steel. I never upgraded mine as the slight flex they provide helped keep other things from breaking. I did install steel hollow balls in them though.

    Traxxas 7154X
    - Aluminum hex's... I found these to be a waste. Stock plastics held up without a single issue... and they are cheaper to replace than a rim/tire; because if something is going to fail at the hex I would rather it be the hex.

    Traxxas 3374
    - V380 heat sink. Good at keeping temps lower... just be sure to gear for heat issues first. Heat sinks and fans are not the way to solve heat issues!

    Traxxas 3064
    - Parallel harness. My only complaint is they use smallish gauge wire... so I built my own.

    Traxxas 7381
    - Diff locker. You definitely do not want that for a street racer... it will totally destroy handling.

    Traxxas 6543
    - Voltage telemetry... if you want to stick with a docked TQi this makes sense.

    Traxxas 2080
    - Another steering servo? Running two is a bad idea as the stock linkage is not adjustable... if it is for replacement I suggest upgrading so you don't ever have to worry about it again; especially since replacement are about the same price or cheaper. I ran a Blue Bird 390 and was extremely satisfied with it.

    Traxxas 2426
    - 48 pitch 26 tooth pinion... not a bad idea, but I would wait until you can get some temp readings before you purchase or buy a whole selection so you can dial in.

    Traxxas 7077R
    - It should come with the telemetry ready gear cover stock...

    Traxxas 6522
    - RPM telemetry... if you want to stick with a docked TQi this makes sense.

    Traxxas 7046R
    - 48 pitch 50 tooth telemetry spur... not a bad idea, but I would wait until you can get some temp readings before you purchase or buy a whole selection so you can dial in. I think it should come with the 45 tooth telemetry spur stock.

    Traxxas 6540
    - Telemetry magnet... I think the telemetry spurs have them imbedded? I am not sure on that due to me never messing with telemetry.

    Traxxas 6535
    - Temp sensor mount... if you want to stick with a docked TQi this makes sense.

    Traxxas 6523
    - Temp sensor... if you want to stick with a docked TQi this makes sense.

    Traxxas 6543
    - You have this listed twice...

    Traxxas 6538
    - I don't think this magnet holder is for the 1/16ths.

    Traxxas 7090
    - Small block motor mount plate... your roller doesn't come with a motor mount?

    Also any opinions on high speed road tires? I want pre-glued!
    - For all out speed runs... Gone Banana's foams. Hands down.

    If you really need the motor mount plate, you will need the mount itself as well: 7060.

    You don't have any knuckles listed either... or what batteries you want to run...

    As for power system... that depends on what speeds you want to hit and your budget. The stock V380 motor is hard to beat, but the ESC is on the weak side. The Castle Sidewinder 3 is waterproof and can handle the 16ths with ease.
    Whatever it is I just said... I could be wrong.

  8. #8
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    Wow THANKS Jimmie!(and everyone else). I am trying to sell my Summit, don't stab or gouge my posting for saying that! I just can't handle it, it's to much for me because I am 17 and trying to save for a real car, in school, and barely work... My roller does come with the 550 size motor mount and knuckles. I would run some stock Traxxas mini lipos(11.1V). I hate to have to sell my Summit but it's just not my style, I have yet to find a land based RC that works best for my wants, so I will try with this mini speed burner. I have a choice, either sell my Summit or my Spartan... I picked Summit, don't get me wrong I love the big white monster but I don't have the room for it. I will never buy a used RC again, I just can't stand it because I want to remember what it looked like when I crash it. I may just be getting a RTR 1/16 and doing upgrades over time. Also what oil should I put in the diffs? Is there any batteries from SPC or SMC that will fit without any mods? Which KV should I be looking for in the Sidewinder 3 section?
    Last edited by Spartanator; 09-29-2013 at 07:40 PM.

  9. #9
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. Jimmie Neutron's Avatar
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    I am not sure with SMC.. I will never own their packs. SPC has a 2S 2500 that fits great, no mods needed.

    Sidewinder 3 is an ESC... and all you would need from Castle as they do not have a 380 sized motor. The stock V380 is a 4000kv motor and is pretty hard to beat. If you decide to go big block (550 sized) you would be throwing handling out the window on an RC that already likes to flip over.

    What I meant about no knuckles being on your list is that it is a common upgrade... usually quite soon after purchase.
    Whatever it is I just said... I could be wrong.

  10. #10
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    Thanks again Jimmie... I am just not sure if I should order a new mini Merv (burshless) or build on a roller... I kind am thinking now that I would like to be able to do a little offroading. I know this is the wrong forum about a mini Merv but oh well. I just want to basically change a pinion maybe some shocks setups so I can either have a slight offroad vehicle or on-roadspeeder. Jimmie my main question is, well never mind guess my mind is made up on the mini merv roller! Will be ordering one as soon as my Summit is sold! Now the concern from me: What ?would I have to do to get the Castle Sidewinder 3 to fit? Does the Sidewinder connections fit the stock V-380 motor? Yes I would probably get the aftermarket RPM stuff as well.



    Here is what I am currently thinking of http://www.ebay.com/itm/NEW-Traxxas-...item1c344c3494

  11. #11
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. Jimmie Neutron's Avatar
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    I don't think they do... but a little soldering will cure that.
    Many have made an L bracket that slides into the stock ESC spot and then mounted the SV3 to that on its side.

    I would stay away from RPM knuckles... there are reported issues with the bearing hole ovaling and the pillow balls popping out.

    This is what I had when I very rarely walked away broke:

    Steel hollow balls (7028x) to reduce slop
    3M mushroom tape along battery doors to hold the body on
    Aluminum knuckles to reduce slop and add strength (I had HR but recommend GPM or GH)
    A BlueBird 390 servo due to the stock being known to fry/strip itself
    RPM a arms at all four corners (Front-80692, Rear-80602)
    Center differential (7014) upgrade to help handle the power of
    2200mah 2S 20C LiPo's ran in parallel for ~1 hour run times
    23/50 gearing gets me to ~30mph yet keeps temps in check
    Shimmed front and rear bulkheads... *LINK*

    Especially do that last part... extremely cheap preventative procedure.
    Whatever it is I just said... I could be wrong.

  12. #12
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    Thanks, I browsed around on the diff shimming part earlier. I have no way of soldering, I may ask my LHS if they could do it, what should be the price for an average solder job, I know that's a irrational question...
    Last edited by Spartanator; 09-29-2013 at 10:03 PM.

  13. #13
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    Soldering should be pretty cheap...if you buy the connectors from them they may do it for free.
    Bluebird 390 is NOT waterproof.

    If you get that roller...got to dollarhobbyz or somewhere similar and get the stock 380 Velineon motor.
    It's more than enough...and like Jimmie mentioned...switching to a 550 can motor will kill your handling.
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  14. #14
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. Jimmie Neutron's Avatar
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    All servos are not that hard to waterproof... usually just a dab of grease and some RTV will do the trick.

    No idea how much it would cost to have it soldered... but you can buy all the basic equipment for less than $10.
    Whatever it is I just said... I could be wrong.

  15. #15
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    Thanks, I will be ordering from Dollar hobbyz... dcfox--- where are you in TX? I am guessing South East? Any reccomendations on solering products? i don't need a soldering factory, just something easy and that will last for more than one time?

  16. #16
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    Quote Originally Posted by Spartanator View Post
    Thanks, I will be ordering from Dollar hobbyz... dcfox--- where are you in TX? I am guessing South East? Any reccomendations on solering products? i don't need a soldering factory, just something easy and that will last for more than one time?
    I'm in Hamshire (between Houston and Beaumont).
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  17. #17
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    Cool dcfox! I am down in Kemah/League City... Does anyone use the RPM bumpers? Also the GPM site is not acting correctly for the mini merv page.

  18. #18
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    Quote Originally Posted by Spartanator View Post
    Thanks, I will be ordering from Dollar hobbyz... dcfox--- where are you in TX? I am guessing South East? Any reccomendations on solering products? i don't need a soldering factory, just something easy and that will last for more than one time?
    I still use the cheap little iron from Harbor Freight and some Radioshack 60/40 solder. It's so cheap that it's almost disposable. I get a new one every 6 months or so just to have a fresh tip.

  19. #19
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    Thanks F-R, ever tow your Spartan around with a mini(assuming you have one)? Just kidding, thanks I will take a look, i have a $50 Home Depot card so maybe I just might go and spend it. I don't know what my step grand parents were thinking when they got me a HD gift card...

  20. #20
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    Quote Originally Posted by Spartanator View Post
    Cool dcfox! I am down in Kemah/League City... Does anyone use the RPM bumpers? Also the GPM site is not acting correctly for the mini merv page.
    I have a set of blue RPM bumpers sitting in my parts box.
    Mainly because mine and my daughters mervs both have green in the theme...so we both have mini Grave Digger bumpers.
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  21. #21
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    Quote Originally Posted by Spartanator View Post
    Thanks F-R, ever tow your Spartan around with a mini(assuming you have one)? Just kidding, thanks I will take a look, i have a $50 Home Depot card so maybe I just might go and spend it. I don't know what my step grand parents were thinking when they got me a HD gift card...
    Nope... Just the Slash4x4 lol. They were thinking you'd get out there and get your hands dirty! Or... They do sell candy by the cashiers lol.

  22. #22
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    Thanks F-R, maybe some light bulbs and sour straws!!! Do you think the ROM are better than the stockers? I know there is now a led kit from TRX for the mini merv... Now for radio system... Does anyone use a Summit Transmitter to control the lights on a non Summit RC? Could the Summit transmitter control more than dinky servos? I will come back in the morning, it's bed time for school tomorrow(will be using taptalk in 2nd period)
    Last edited by Spartanator; 09-29-2013 at 10:38 PM.

  23. #23
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. Jimmie Neutron's Avatar
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    I never liked the look of the RPM bumpers...

    You can use the extra channels to operate lights and stuff, but you would need a receiver switch to do so.

    If you do buy your own soldering equipment, be sure to get at least 60 watts of power.
    http://www.ebay.com/itm/60-Watt-Penc...item51ac319718
    Whatever it is I just said... I could be wrong.

  24. #24
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    so all I would need to switch lights on and off is the Summit TX/RX? Just plug the less in the spare channels.
    PM for info.....

  25. #25
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    *meant just plug the wires in the diff locker/tranny servo port and they will work? I will be trying when I get some time.
    PM for info.....

  26. #26
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    Highly thinking of getting a 1/16!

    The lights can be powered by any of the Rx channels.
    Alt-248 on the number pad =

  27. #27
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    Anyone use integy battery doors? Quality, weight, durability, anger issues wth it? ksb51rl I want to be able to use the switches on the Summit remote to enable and disable lights.
    PM for info.....

  28. #28
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. Jimmie Neutron's Avatar
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    Of you want to control the lights you need a receiver switch... as stated in post 23. Receiver power is constantly on.

    There is an Integy battery door thread right now in the Revo section.
    Whatever it is I just said... I could be wrong.

  29. #29
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    Should I be getting an aluminum wing mount?
    What should be aluminum besides knuckles!? Any recommended aluminum brands, I know I will be purchasing GPM alum knuckles if I I can find them...
    Last edited by Spartanator; 09-30-2013 at 11:40 AM.
    PM for info.....

  30. #30
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. Jimmie Neutron's Avatar
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    Aluminum wing mount is not needed.

    Knuckles is the only item I recommend for aluminum construction except maybe shocks.

    GPM, HR, GH, Traxxas, and some Integy... but not all parts are created equal. Some brands are better at one part that the other.
    Last edited by Jimmie Neutron; 09-30-2013 at 12:17 PM.
    Whatever it is I just said... I could be wrong.

  31. #31
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    Now that I got some stuff to buy and think on, what part breaks the most?
    PM for info.....

  32. #32
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    http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll...m=161118986783


    Any comments for this item? I would run it until it breaks, then get all my upgrades...

  33. #33
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    Too high in my opinion. I like my on road 1/16...but the off road ones get more use.

    Also...on that particular car...it needs to lose the 2nd steering servo. It's not needed...and will be more trouble than its worth.

    A much better deal here...
    http://www.ebay.com/itm/TRAXXAS-KEN-...item233018f138
    Last edited by dcfox; 10-01-2013 at 10:20 PM.
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  34. #34
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    Thanks dcfox, the link for mine is also supposedly "new". I thinks it's a little high too, I would convert it to a mini merv that I could switch between speed burner and small off roader.
    PM for info.....

  35. #35
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    Then I'd look for a Merv roller to get you a head start.
    The biggest expense when switching from a Rally platform to a merv platform is the axles.
    --
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  36. #36
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. Jimmie Neutron's Avatar
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    The Revo is much more stable at speeds too... the narrowness of the Boss/Slash/Rally causes the issue.
    Whatever it is I just said... I could be wrong.

  37. #37
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    I thought so, I found a mini merv roller(without tires) for $135... I plan to throw an very non-aerodynamic body on it such as a rat rod for mini raptor body... The mini is my plan if I sell my 1/10(not wanting to do that), if it does not sell I will have a complete list for when I have enough to get a mini. I like the idea of me having a mini so I would able to store it almost anywhere due the smaller size.
    PM for info.....

  38. #38
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    the summit and e-revo versions are quite a big bigger due to wide axels and chunky tires. The slash / rally / mustang are narrower and more convenient to carry around if size is an issue. But, as mentioned above, if you compromise on size you also compromise on performance. Hm...

  39. #39
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    I have seen a mini merv and mini slash in real life, the merv is small enough for my liking but the mini slash/boss is a little small. I just figured that the hidden a-arms would be better in case of a crash, I plan to go fast with it!
    PM for info.....

  40. #40
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    yes the shell will protect alot when the wheels are behinde it but the rally/slash imo isnt wide enought for a "fast" speed run
    summit /mustang /stampede-2s spc lipo

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