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  1. #1
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    Exclamation Project 70 (The LXXR)

    Hello guys! I have a Rustler that I got last Christmas, and a good local track, some time, and inspiration. The inspiration was for me to not get laughed at and cussed at for having a Rustler on the track, and the Ultimate Rustler. Here is the revised edition of the LXXR/Project 70 (70 because of the speed potential). First of all, the truck is HEAVY. Nearly 4 lbs.! Dremel, check. Black replacement chassis, check. CHARGE!!! Damage of the thing wasn't too excessive.... Holy Traxxas! lightened the truck about 5 oz. Great so far! Front suspension: I used the stock shocks, with AE 45wt oil, and Traxxas red springs, an SRT fiberglass shock tower, Traxxas adjustable chamber links, Nitro Rustler spindles, kingpins (also for the caster block pins) and 25° kick up blocks, with Lightweight dished wheels. Cool! The body mounts are from a mini E-Revo, bent up in the center. All this contributes to less rolling resistance (noticeable), smoother suspension, and good looks. Rear Suspension: The shocks are inverted Traxxas fronts, a trimmed down tower, MERV body mounts, Traxxas aluminum rear hub carriers, genuine SRT arms, dished wheels (N. rusty), and a trimmed RPM hybrid gearbox.Inversion Excursion Lookin' good! Miscellany: Wat? Aloominum skroos n nuts? Yes. The front two are the stock shell 4x4mm countersinks. They are so light that my .1 min. gram scale couldn't pick up the two. The 3mm nuts are by Racer's Edge. The shell is a Nitro Sport (pink by mistake) shell I had lying around. The servo is stock. Tires are JConcepts Bar Code golds, and the fronts are Panther Switches. Pics! Cool side shot! I wonder why I'm called the Pink Panther... Side stripes! Phase II sneak peak: New shell (Proline Bulldog 22t), aluminum hardware, and assorted carbon fiber partseseseses.
    Last edited by MooseSlash; 10-24-2013 at 08:53 PM. Reason: PICS!!
    And there he goes with the carbon...

  2. #2
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    Cool take on your own ultimate rustler. I like the attention payed to weight savings. Best of luck at the track

  3. #3
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    Thanks! The T4.2's are getting 16 second lap times on a 20 second average track. I'm gonna need the luck!
    And there he goes with the carbon...

  4. #4
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    I hear ya man! The 22t's will crack into the 19sec barrier and I'm seeing 21.5 at best. I just got some ions so I hope I don't have to just slide around the entire track. How do like the 25 degree blocks compared to stock. I'm considering trying them out myself.

  5. #5
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    Not very much difference. If anything it's a little more agile, a bit more like a buggy's nimbleness IMO.
    And there he goes with the carbon...

  6. #6
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    Update: Mod 2 commenced! Ordering a Bulldog 22t body. Looking at some aluminum hardware, and a carbon fiber stiffener. I think I have the carbon sickness!
    And there he goes with the carbon...

  7. #7
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    Nothing wrong with the carbon sickness. Me and a buddy thought we should come up with a rap song called 'carbon fiber everythang' lol.

    I'm looking forward to seeing the new mods, especially the bulldog body. With my Anza rear tower, I'm looking for a lid that has slightly taller provisions for the shock tower any ways.

    Have you been to the track at all recently?

  8. #8
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    No, not since a while. My ESC broke an I just got a soldering iron in to fix it. I can tell at my superlocal track that it performs great, and it will best the T4's. Scared of the potential T5...
    And there he goes with the carbon...

  9. #9
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    Wealp, the new shell came in today, along with an RPM post punch, and two ball bearings. Painting as we speak.
    And there he goes with the carbon...

  10. #10
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    Finished the shell (a while ago) will post pics tomorrow. Fits like a glove. I'm going to order a carbon fiber upper deck in Phase II.
    And there he goes with the carbon...

  11. #11
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    Looking forward to seeing pics with the 22t lid on your rusty! I'd like some better body options myself. It amazes me how tight the clearance is from the rear body mount to the ends of the shock tower. I can hardly fit a body washer and pin thru the tower hole.

  12. #12
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    Ok, long wait, especially for Oaks.
    Shell:

    Heh heh.... Proline Bullfrog...
    New body mount:

    How I did it:

    Two 26mm long, 3mm in size screws with 3mm Racer's Edge aluminum nuts. Works great!
    And there he goes with the carbon...

  13. #13
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    That lid looks über racey, MooseSlash! Props for making it work & dude, I'm digging your track inspired rustler.

    Have you ever thrown it on a scale?

  14. #14
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    Yes. Actually, the all time low.
    3lbs, 4 oz without a battery. Thanks for the support!
    And there he goes with the carbon...

  15. #15
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    Ok, Mod 2 is different from Phase II. A "Mod" is a minor tweak within a Phase. Currently it is Phase I mod 2.
    Boxed up my ESC to send to Castle, and now I'm going to switch tracks temporarily. The track I'm running on now is hard packed, dusty, with loose corners. I'm ordering some Proline Edge tires with Hole Shots at the rear. There is snow outside so no running until it melts and dries....
    And there he goes with the carbon...

  16. #16
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    Update: Softened the suspension to comply to the rough outdoor track. 25wt oil in the front, 30 in the rear, rear 1 hole pistons, rear blue springs (Losi), and red front springs (Traxxas).
    And there he goes with the carbon...

  17. #17
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    Phase I Mod II is here! Update:

    I corrected the rear width. The front end is exactly 13", but the rear was 12.5''. The softer suspension made the truck not as stable so I replaced the rear 4-TEC/stock hex hubs with the stock grey front ones. This made the rear width 12.99'', which pushed the rear to the ROAR almost maximum. I trimmed off a bit of the rear tower to make it smoother. More to come...
    And there he goes with the carbon...

  18. #18
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    Update: Got some Christmas goodies installed, Traxxas 13mm Big Bore shocks. These were installed on the rear with black springs, and the fronts will have green. You must trim off some of the rear wall guarding the shock to prevent rubbing. The spindles up front were replaced with Jato blue anodized units. These spindles are much lighter, and use 4mm nuts. You must use some aluminum tubing or some sort of anti-slop. I jammed in some foam to take out the slop, but you can use any form of anti-slop agent you like. There is about 3mm of play in-between the wheel nut and the bearing in the wheel. Add a 5x3 spacer, I used a few Nitro Rustler fiber washers (1x5mm). I replaced the tires with Proline Edges, and the rears with Proline Holeshots. The rears got mounted to RPM revolver front rims, and the fronts are the same Lightweight Dishes.
    And there he goes with the carbon...

  19. #19
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    Well, just won the WFRC Novice truck with a best lap of 15.8!
    Added some jato wheel spacers, and a Pro Ball Diff.
    And there he goes with the carbon...

  20. #20
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    Congratulations MooseSlash! With the win and fast laptimes, Please let me know which tires you run. Nice work man

  21. #21
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    Thank you! I race with Pro-Line tires all around. The Edge tires up front, and Holeshots in the back. The Edges are great, they just cut into the dirt and really steer it well. The Holeshots bite into the hard-packet segments and dig into the loose stuff. That setup worked great!
    Update: I added 13mm shocks to the front, with Traxxas green springs, and 40wt oil with 2 hole pistons. The bellcranks in the front are red-anodized Traxxas aluminum ones. This takes out a on of slop, makes steering more responsive, and is less hard on my servo. I added Traxxas blue aluminum wheel nuts. Those look great, and are about 2g lighter, to boot.
    By the way, the motor I was running for that race was a first prototype of a DudeMann Xtreme 1410.
    Last edited by MooseSlash; 12-31-2013 at 12:33 PM.
    And there he goes with the carbon...

  22. #22
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    Nice steering setup, MooseSlash, my son runs the TRX bellcrank too. If the dudemann 1410 is anything like the castle 1410, then I know you have plenty of power! My boy runs that also and it's great. You don't need too much trigger or many revs to make power - really driveable

  23. #23
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    It is a tuned Castle 1410. It is great!
    And there he goes with the carbon...

  24. #24
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    Phase II is quickly approaching: Project plan leaked!
    With two podium finishes under Phase I's belt, I consider this project to be going great so far!
    With the RC10B5 announced, I know that the T5 is coming.
    Those podium finishes were not easy, and I only won the first one due to a pile-up that I awkwardly took the outside through. I would have gotten 3rd if it wasn't for that pile-up.

    Chassis:

    The setup will be replacing the slightly flexible Phase I "Jangified" chassis. It will consist of a lightweight, LCG aluminum/carbon chassis. This will eliminate all flex, be the lowest CG off-road chassis to date, and be way ahead of any racing chassis to date. Think "ultra-narrow mega-punch no-lag."

    Suspension:

    The new shock-towers will be LCG, carbon fiber, and have the best geometry of any shock tower to date.
    The rear units will be a hybrid of the camber link mount, body mount, wire holder, and chassis-stiffener mount.
    The A-Arms will be based off of the Phase I units, and have a gull-wing design.

    Drivetrain:

    The new gearbox is going to defy all modern transmission boxes to date.
    I will be using a certain vintage Traxxas part to make this thing be possible.
    New axles will be lightweight, low-rotating-mass, and tough in design.

    -----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

    This will be the lowest-CG off-road vehicle to date, based off of the Rustler's original specs, and have the most compatibility with stock parts as possible. This vehicle will make Phase I look like a stock vehicle, and will make Associated drivers cry for their mommies.
    Do not expect any major work on this to commence until Summer.
    And there he goes with the carbon...

  25. #25
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    Sounds interesting. Keep us posted and congrats on the success!

  26. #26
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    I'll keep an ear out for you, MooseSlash

    Thanks for bringing the idea of custom chassis and shock towers to light. There used to be some custom chassis floating around the forums awhile ago.

    In the meantime, keep up the good work!

  27. #27
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    I sketched up the first chassis design. Man, this will be rigid!
    If anyone is wondering, the aluminum chassis will weigh more by design. This will actually lower the CG.
    The narrower the chassis, the better punch it will have. If weight is further out, it will feel "sluggish" out of the turns.
    Gull wing A-Arms limit the down-travel, allowing the shock towers to be lower which lowers the CG. The outer areas will have more ground clearance, to boot.
    Stay tuned......
    And there he goes with the carbon...

  28. #28
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    Looking forward to it!

    I've been thinking about moving my esc back on the plate or battery. It's sitting opposite the motor right now and the idea of centering everything sounds good. Any plans for an extended chassis? How about a modified forward facing servo with custom bellcrank

    I like the gullwing arm idea. Proline protrac looks gullwing, but fails to let you mount the shock lower. Good luck, I've been wanting to make my own g10 chassis

  29. #29
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    I will not extend my chassis. The Rustler's wheelbase is at the ROAR maximum. It still will be 11.5''. There might be something about custom steering...
    And there he goes with the carbon...

  30. #30
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    I got some flat cardboard for a chassis mock-up in 1/1 scale. I might tease some pictures later....
    And there he goes with the carbon...

  31. #31
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    As a final tweak for Phase I, I've entered into the experimental Mod 3. I bit the bullet and cut off the two "wings" that originally mounted the ESC and Rx. The Rx now sits on the upper deck, and the ESC is mounted on the original plate. I will see if this effects the "punch" at all. The first "Double-Endeavour" chassis concept is now a physical cardboard replica!

    Stay tuned......

    DESIGN LEAK: 3 Piece chassis!
    And there he goes with the carbon...

  32. #32
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    New weights have arrived:
    3.3lbs w/ everything but battery
    3.8lbs w/ battery
    By golly, I've shaved off 1 pound from the original truck!
    And there he goes with the carbon...

  33. #33
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    Sounds good MooseSlash. I picked up some traxxas GTR springs for my scte front shocks. I grabbed a set of greens like you and the next step softer which is orange. I'm really hoping these springs along with skinnying my truck back up helps it turn better. I'm going to give stock slash arms a try - I've only ever had protrac arms on my truck.

  34. #34
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    Dremel off about 2mm from each side. Leave the hinge pin areas the same as stock, and Dremel out the inner webs of plastic. That alone makes the truck more responsive.
    And there he goes with the carbon...

  35. #35
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    So I want to free up the suspension as much as possible without being too sloppy? Check! Lol. Thanks for the tip

    The protrac arms really add a great deal of stability, but I'm not sure if I need it. It will be neat so see how it navigates the set of doubles that are in the turns being a little skinnier. I'm looking for something that turns a bit more agressively.

  36. #36
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    I haven't tested the P1M3 70 yet. It's too rainy! The rear arms that are now Dremeled feel much better than the "stock" SRT arms.

    UPDATE: The truck is about to make its farewell last 2 races in P1M3. I will be driving in the WFRC ST B-Main, and the WFRC 21/14 Mix. I'm now sponsored by DudeMann Xtreme Motors! For the Summer Super Series, I will be running in the 8.5t mod class!!
    And there he goes with the carbon...

  37. #37
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    Project 70: Phase I Mod 3. Tally up and build!

    Modifications: Phase I Mod 3

    For any of you who want to build a good "beginner" racing Rustler that can and will beat T4.2's and 22t's, this post is for you.

    Jangification

    The Rustler never really has much liveliness going around the track for 3 reasons: Heavy chassis and arms, suspension setup, and tires. I will cover the last two in later sections.

    There is a remarkably high amount of unneeded material in the main chassis. To get rid of this, I made some gaping chassis holes, and cut off the side lengths of the chassis, leaving a 1mm thick ridge for stiffness. see figure 1 for clarification. The upper chassis was not Dremeled, for electronic mounting reasons. (fig. 1)

    The suspension arms front and rear got Dremeled away, leaving plenty of rigidity and strength for racing. These arms lost about 6 grams, and make the suspension much more responsive. (fig. 2)

    My gearbox was also trimmed down, but was swapped out (and trimmed) with an RPM Hybrid Gearbox. (fig. 8)

    Suspension: Front

    The stock Rusty's suspension is mediocre out of the box. It can be cured with spring, shock oil, and cap changes, but I decided to go for the gusto.

    My shock tower didn't have any tuning options. I traded it out for an SRT/NSP fiberglass shock tower, which gave me many more tuning options than stock. Most of the lower middle section was taken out to fit over the front bulkhead (fig. 3) to lower the center of gravity! Also, if I wanted to run it as a buggy, it would protect the shocks. This was used on the B4 and B5. I also put 1/16 E-Revo body mounts on the tower, and bent them in the center.

    The plastic Traxxas shocks are great. They work very well for racing, but not for Xtreme power of my racing motor, on a big track. These units were swapped out for Traxxas 7461x 13mm shocks front and rear (fig. 4). My setup is covered at the bottom of the page (it will vary from track to track).

    The corners were replaced with Nitro Rustler/SRT caster and steering blocks (part numbers 2632r or 2634r, and 2536). These require 2 5x4x11mm bearings in the wheels (1974). Instead of the 5mm heavy steel spindles, I replaced these with 5537x 4mm aluminum spindles. These do have 1mm of play in the mounting area, but is fixed with a little piece of flat cardboard. Use Jato steel wheel spacers in between the wheel bearing and the wheel nut! The caster blocks and caster/spindles are mounted with 2636 kingpins, and I've carefully drilled out the outer corners to accept the kingpins. See figure 5, as it will explain any misconceptions.

    Suspension: Rear

    My A-Arms are 2555 Slash rear arms. You can just as easily use 1955 SRT A-Arms, but the 2555's are much easier to find. I've done the Jangification to them (fig. 2), and got rid of 2mm of material from the inner mounting points on the arm mounts, to prevent rubbing. These arms require any Rustler 2.2 front wheel, or just use the SRT rims I have (1972). To boot, these add 3° of toe in for less oversteer. Note: Adjustable camber links must be used! (fig. 6)


    The corners are Traxxas 3652x aluminum ones. These units provide better alignment for the bearings over the stock units. Aside from major performance usage, these look just plain trick.

    Be sure to add spacers as needed to remove play!

    My shocks are 7461x 13mm ones. I mounted them much lower and cut off the rest of the tower. Mounting them inward increases progressiveness! It soaks up the small bumps, and stiffens up as you land a jump. (fig. 7)

    Transmission

    Searching for better gearbox options, I came across the RPM Hybrid Gearbox. A huge grin came across my face when I saw that it had an aluminum motor plate! This is cheating, but I saw huge areas dying to be Jangified! (fig. 8) This allows the motor to run cooler and the truck to be lighter. As for the guts, I used an aluminum top gear (1991) and a Pro Ball Differential (2520). These pieces are much lighter than stock, and perform better, too.

    Steering

    I used a Traxxas aluminum bell crank (3743x) to get rid of any slop from the nylon stockers. These also have 5x8 bearing in them, instead of bushings.

    Add 3mm worth of spacing in between where the steering link mounts and the steering links ball end. Very important, as it removes all bump-steer. (fig. 9)

    Body

    Topping it all off is a Proline Bulldog 2012 (22t). This couldn't have fit more perfectly. The body mounts for the rear go on the mounting marks, and the front ones go in a little ridge. The aerodynamics of this shell are feel able, and make the truck more planted.

    miscellany.

    I used Traxxas aluminum wheel nuts to lighten the load, a set of Racer's Edge 3mm aluminum lock nuts, and Traxxas 4mm aluminum screws (from the stock shell) to mount the upper deck. I added assorted hex black hardware, and was careful to select the right length. Too short, RIIIIT, stripped. To long, dead weight.
    ---------------------------------------

    Setup:
    Front: 25wt oil (Losi) w/ Traxxas green springs
    Rear: 30wt (Traxxas) w/ Traxxas green springs

    Tires:
    Front: Edge (M3, Proline) or Switch (Panther, clay)
    Rear: Holeshot (M3, Proline) or Bar Codes (JConcepts, Gold, bald)

    Weights:
    3lbs, .3oz w/ everything but battery
    3lbs, 3.2 w/ battery
    -----------------------------------------------

    Pictures will be posted soon.

    Thanks to theJANG: www.thejang.net , Ultimate RC: www.ultimaterc.com , and Ultimate Traxxas: www.ultimatetraxxas.com
    And there he goes with the carbon...

  38. #38
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    Pictures

    Figure 1:



    Figure 2:



    Figure 3:



    Figure 4:



    Figure 5:



    Figure 6:



    Figure 7:



    Figure 8:



    Figure 9:



    Body on shot (bulldog 22t)

    And there he goes with the carbon...

  39. #39
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    This looks like one serious racing machine! Keep it up.

    By the way, when I see ppl recommending Jang's spring combo with xxxt springs, the rear rate is a lot stiffer than the front. How do you like running the same rate from front to back? Personally, I like it much better when the front and rear rates are similar. His were 2.8 up front and 4.2 out back.

  40. #40
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    My Rustler felt like it bounced up in the rear too much with the black springs. Also, the oil feels thinner with 2 hole pistons. If you notice my rear preload, the black springs felt too stiff. These feel just right. I like the way the truck handles with equal spring rates, you can control it off the ramps easier. Madien voyage for the latest incarnation is sceduled for the 21st! Will try to get some track shots. Thank you, Oaks! Your support is really encouraging.
    Last edited by MooseSlash; 02-18-2014 at 09:19 PM. Reason: Shout out to Oaks.
    And there he goes with the carbon...

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