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  1. #1
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    aluminum slash?? gear box hunt

    hey guys first post here

    so i have a slash vxl that i have upgraded
    -proline pro2 lcg chassis
    -power stroke shocks
    -integy kit - (a arms, shock towers, hubs, bearing carriers etc)

    so my pops and i spent quite a few hours over the weekend getting it all back together after the chassis
    replacement. then i got it out for a rip and what do you know... the a arm bracket on the gear box busted
    on the drivers side. Yaaaay!!! more screwing around. so any way i am now on the hunt for a solid gear box for this truck.

    what say you!!!

    clark

  2. #2
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    Sorry but your Integy Aluminum arms broke your truck ..... are you building a SHELF QUEEN
    Anza Slash & a pile of Parts

  3. #3
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    http://www.integy.com/st_prod.html?p...9#.Ul2HaMvD_qA But I'm not a can of aluminum

    Sent from Galaxy S3 using Tapatalk 4

  4. #4
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    sorry to say it but the a arm is probably the cuase of the braekage......

    but ...integy\/,r.e.m.,fastl lane machining(flm) and others that i dont remeber
    summit /mustang /stampede-2s spc lipo

  5. #5
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    haha def did not start as a shelf queen but she has spent alot more time on the shelf recently. soo what would you recommend
    instead of the integy arms. (lil back story, i installed those on the truck waay back when i first got it on recommendations from a friend who was going through a arms at an alarming rate) but after doing my own research i found that ...... pretty much anything integy was not highly recommended. soo i have to replace the gear box now any way not getting around that. so what do you think i should do? aluminum gear box, rpm a-arms? i am def open to suggestions.

  6. #6
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    INTEGY = JUNK only good for SHELF QUEEN just be careful when dusting it might break
    Anza Slash & a pile of Parts

  7. #7
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    Quote Originally Posted by jurasic_clark View Post
    haha def did not start as a shelf queen but she has spent alot more time on the shelf recently. soo what would you recommend
    instead of the integy arms. (lil back story, i installed those on the truck waay back when i first got it on recommendations from a friend who was going through a arms at an alarming rate) but after doing my own research i found that ...... pretty much anything integy was not highly recommended. soo i have to replace the gear box now any way not getting around that. so what do you think i should do? aluminum gear box, rpm a-arms? i am def open to suggestions.
    You got it. Aluminum gear box and RPM arms are the way to go

  8. #8
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    RPM gearbox and RPM arms

    Quote Originally Posted by jurasic_clark View Post
    haha def did not start as a shelf queen but she has spent alot more time on the shelf recently. soo what would you recommend
    instead of the integy arms. (lil back story, i installed those on the truck waay back when i first got it on recommendations from a friend who was going through a arms at an alarming rate) but after doing my own research i found that ...... pretty much anything integy was not highly recommended. soo i have to replace the gear box now any way not getting around that. so what do you think i should do? aluminum gear box, rpm a-arms? i am def open to suggestions.
    Anza Slash & a pile of Parts

  9. #9
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    if your also looking for tires well replacing the a-arm's at the same time then either pro-line arms or there protrack kit would work to......as and up grade...


    and the rpm trans is still a good option without the weight.... with the transmission i would recomend getting some longer counter sunk screws ,non serated lock nuts(their jam nut's arnt good) and maybe teflon tape for it ...the arm mounts tend to come lose and alters your toe angle....with the longer screws your able to put on the luck nuts and stop it from loseing up again .and the teflon tape would be for the base of the m4 screws that go trought the arm mount and into the transmission so if ever the lock nuts losened up then the threads of the screws wouldnt eat at the a-arm mount.....
    summit /mustang /stampede-2s spc lipo

  10. #10
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    I'm not to sure on the gearbox.
    But I wouldn't buy RPM A arms. They bind, parts fit is horrible (especially with other rpm parts).
    Personally I would stick with the stock arms. But the rpm arms might work better with a different gearbox as I've only tried then with the stock gearbox. Took ALOT of sanding to get it to not bind.

  11. #11
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    here is my Anza Slash running Pro-Line arms TRAXXAS Trans and TRAXXAS Axles Traxxas GTR shocks they are the only items left made by Traxxas the Trans is still the way it came from the Factory when NEW









    Anza Slash & a pile of Parts

  12. #12
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    so from the sounds of things using aluminum has not been working for people??? and the rpm plastic is that much better than stock? sooo no aluminum arms and no aluminum gearbox?

  13. #13
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    Rpm stuff works great check this out

    http://www.rccaraction.com/blog/2013...plastic-parts/
    Anza Slash & a pile of Parts

  14. #14
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    skye buddy sick link. i might hold off due to the freezing weather up here already but wikid idea for the spring.

  15. #15
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    Quote Originally Posted by Mathcanbefun View Post
    I'm not to sure on the gearbox.
    But I wouldn't buy RPM A arms. They bind, parts fit is horrible (especially with other rpm parts).
    Personally I would stick with the stock arms. But the rpm arms might work better with a different gearbox as I've only tried then with the stock gearbox. Took ALOT of sanding to get it to not bind.
    I put rpm all around n never had a problem with stock gearbox- they've been bulletproof so far.
    Let's Get Dangerous - "DWD"

  16. #16
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    check this out




    http://www.rccaraction.com/blog/2013...plastic-parts/


    Quote Originally Posted by Rc_REV View Post
    I put rpm all around n never had a problem with stock gearbox- they've been bulletproof so far.
    Anza Slash & a pile of Parts

  17. #17
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    Yep already reading it from ur earlier post

    Quote Originally Posted by skye View Post
    check this out
    Let's Get Dangerous - "DWD"

  18. #18
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    so the only thing i can see that im not a huge fan of with the rpm gearbox is the screw on a arm brackets. not liking that they are separate pieces. my thoughts at the moment are to switch my integy a arms to rpm and my stock gear box (broken) to rem aluminium gear box

  19. #19
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    Anza Slash & a pile of Parts

  20. #20
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    so that one you posted there thats a 1pc where the a arm pins mount? i cant see from the pics very clearly

  21. #21
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    Anza Slash & a pile of Parts

  22. #22
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    Quote Originally Posted by jurasic_clark View Post
    so the only thing i can see that im not a huge fan of with the rpm gearbox is the screw on a arm brackets. not liking that they are separate pieces. my thoughts at the moment are to switch my integy a arms to rpm and my stock gear box (broken) to rem aluminium gear box
    Yes, I agree with you on the rpm a-arm toe blocks. I think that's what there called. Anyway, I installed the 3deg blocks first but they kept coming loose and giving me way to much toe lol. Switched back to 0deg blocks and did the best I could to tighten the nuts. Not easy to get to if output shafts are connected. Used red lock tight on the bolts this time. So far so good.


    Sent from Oser world

  23. #23
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    that transmission is good but the bumper mounts are weak do to it useing stand off and the toe blocks/a -arm mounts are sepriate

    but the toe blocks/a-arm mounts arnt bad for breaking rilly its just when you use parts that have no give/shock absobtion to them like aluminum
    summit /mustang /stampede-2s spc lipo

  24. #24
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    Quote Originally Posted by reod12x2 View Post
    with the transmission i would recomend getting some longer counter sunk screws ,non serated lock nuts(their jam nut's arnt good) and maybe teflon tape for it ...the arm mounts tend to come lose and alters your toe angle....with the longer screws your able to put on the luck nuts and stop it from loseing up again .and the teflon tape would be for the base of the m4 screws that go trought the arm mount and into the transmission so if ever the lock nuts losened up then the threads of the screws wouldnt eat at the a-arm mount.....
    Quote Originally Posted by dirty don View Post
    I installed the 3deg blocks first but they kept coming loose and giving me way to much toe lol. Switched back to 0deg blocks and did the best I could to tighten the nuts. Not easy to get to if output shafts are connected. Used red lock tight on the bolts this time. So far so good.
    seems that rpm needs to rethink ther "jam nut" situation
    summit /mustang /stampede-2s spc lipo

  25. #25
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    so this is the way im leaning with the rpm arms

    http://www.racersedgemachine.com/REM1050.html

  26. #26
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    Imo If heat isn't a problem an aluminum trans case is just extra weight however if heat is an issue they will bring motor temps down.
    As much as I dislike anything pro-line I use a lot of their stuff because they have the market cornered on many things.
    They make a decent trans case, only problem you need to buy the hole trans and rebuild it for it to be worth a darn.
    The hot racing case is nice and comes in composite and aluminum.
    If I went with an aluminum trans case it would be flm, imo a very nice unit.I built the truck pictured below from the bottom up.
    It has a traxxas rear bumper, traxxas aluminum steering bell, bearing carriers and a strc bulk head, the rest is all pro-line.
    I may have missed a small part or two.
    [IMG][/IMG]
    [IMG][/IMG]
    I also run a couple rpm cases with no issue but I dont run a cover unless the track rules say I must.
    They dissipate heat much better that way.
    Built Ford Tuff With Chevy Stuff.

  27. #27
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    Also i just wanted to add that my build is geared for rec use not racing untill they build a track here

  28. #28
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. rag6's Avatar
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    The crash broke the suspension arm mount, not the arm. I am in no way fond of integy stuff, but read the comment where it said" Integy arm broke your suspension arm mount"... and laughed like the dickens haha. Unbelievable...
    Wanna bash at Greenwood Bashplex in Pittsburgh ???

  29. #29
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. billy-bones's Avatar
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    ^^^Very true,lol.
    But if your control arms were plastic and not aluminum, (assuming the itegy arms were aluminum) there's a chance the flexing plastic may have absorbed enough the impact to save the trans case, while we'll never know in my opinion aluminum on aluminum is always a risky venture.
    Aluminum has its place and can to a great job at reinforcing your truck but when conjugated somethings gotta give.
    I still run aluminum caster blocks with alu front carries to limit play in the steering but know if I hit something with enough impact it may destroy both parts.
    Built Ford Tuff With Chevy Stuff.

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