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  1. #1
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    Slash Help Servo come out of chasis / shocks assistance / common breaking points

    Hi,

    I have had my Slash for about two months and LOVE IT. Fast and durable with minimum breaking. I beat the **** out of this thing too !! Any ways have a few questions and need some advise. This is my first car and Im kinda lost on parts ordering and upgrading, as nothing is clear cut.

    After a hard day it seemed as my steering wasn't what it once was. I feel like im not making corners like I did at first. Maybe its in my head. Maybe there is something I should check ?

    This is a big problem for me. I also noticed that where the servo saver connects to the chassis with the two gray circle holders, it keeps popping out, And I have to force it back in. It doesn't look like anything is broken, so I really don't know where to start on trying to fix this one, or preventing it from happening again.

    My front shock screws are also coming out of the A arms. I researched that they best fix for this is a longer screw with a nut on the end. Where do I get longer screws and how do I know the size .. etc

    My rear shock caps were coming off so I bought aluminum caps. Problem is now I am bending shocks in the rear. So im looking to pick up two shocks for the back that wont bend. Looking for something reasonable, but reliable. Any recommendations. I get so confused when I look at any rc car parts, because I don't know what they fit, size, etc... I think from my research Traxxas Big shocks were the way to go??.. But I don't really know what that is or where to find them

    Thanks Dan

  2. #2
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. kdvanb's Avatar
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    For the shock buy some traxxas TiNi shafts and you won't bend shafts again
    For the front shock mounting it sounds like you stripped out your a-arm so I'd buy some new ones
    Slash 2wd, Slash 4x4, 30th digger, Rustler VXL

  3. #3
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    Welcome to the forums! You've come to the right place. First off, I'm not sure what part you're talking about with the steering. Can you elaborate a little more? As for front shock screws, the lower ones don't usually come out so that's a little bit odd. Are you sure you're tightening them down enough? A good set of hex drivers are a good investment to ensure you're getting the screws cranked down tight. If they are backing out and you're tightening them well, you can get screws from McMaster-Carr. That's where I get all of my materials. You can find the lengths and sizes on the exploded views of the truck in your manual or under "downloads" on the Slash product page on Traxxas.com. Those are 3mm, as are most screws on the Slash. As for length, get a ruler and do your best to measure how long of a screw you need to pass through the a-arm and remember you need room for a nut on the other side. As for rear shocks, my problems were solved when I got the titanium nitride coated shafts (part number 2656T) and installed them in my stock shocks. I prefer the stock shocks over the big bores and I think with aluminum caps and titanium nitride coated shafts, they are perfect.

  4. #4
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    To prevent the bellcrank from popping out of the chassis, remove the skid, and remove the two cap screws that hold the bellcrank to the skid. Use some sort of spacer to fill the pockets in the chassis- I used a 6mm O.D. x 3mm thick aluminum spacer, but a cut up shock bushing or something should work. Reinstall the skid, and run some 3x40mm or so screws through the holes in the chassis into the steering posts of the skid. Grind off any excess. Everyone is gonna tell you to "buy a RPM skid". This method is stronger and cheaper, and fixes the problem for good. It's hard to get get good pics of the area, so post back up if you have any more questions.

    Ti-Ni shock shafts are more resistant to bending than the stockers. There are a variety of shocks out there with 3.5mm shafts and aluminum bodies that are even stronger, and the Big Bores are very strong, too. If you want to build your own, Integy and STRC offer Ultra shock bodies in aluminum with threads for adjustment. I like the Integys more, believe it or not.

    Try a longer screw in your front A-arms. It sounds like your arms are starting to strip a bit. That is one screw I've never had a problem with!

  5. #5
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    Thanks for the great advice.

    I will probably just get those stronger shock shafts.

    As for the A- arms that's easy, I will just get a screw with a nut. Once I figure out how to get the screws for rc cars.

    As for the steering.. No one really touched on the sterring response which is much less.. Maybe a stripped gear or something?

    Here is the pic to the servo (bellcrank?)that is coming out of the chasis. Not exactly where to put the spacers.



    Blaster 75 your idea sounds great. Any pics. Not exactly sure what you mean, but it sounds bullet proof. I will look into it more and try to figure it out.

  6. #6
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    some pics of this fix would be nice to show what you are talking about


    Quote Originally Posted by Blaster75 View Post
    To prevent the bellcrank from popping out of the chassis, remove the skid, and remove the two cap screws that hold the bellcrank to the skid. Use some sort of spacer to fill the pockets in the chassis- I used a 6mm O.D. x 3mm thick aluminum spacer, but a cut up shock bushing or something should work. Reinstall the skid, and run some 3x40mm or so screws through the holes in the chassis into the steering posts of the skid. Grind off any excess. Everyone is gonna tell you to "buy a RPM skid". This method is stronger and cheaper, and fixes the problem for good. It's hard to get get good pics of the area, so post back up if you have any more questions.

    Ti-Ni shock shafts are more resistant to bending than the stockers. There are a variety of shocks out there with 3.5mm shafts and aluminum bodies that are even stronger, and the Big Bores are very strong, too. If you want to build your own, Integy and STRC offer Ultra shock bodies in aluminum with threads for adjustment. I like the Integys more, believe it or not.

    Try a longer screw in your front A-arms. It sounds like your arms are starting to strip a bit. That is one screw I've never had a problem with!
    Anza Slash & a pile of Parts

  7. #7
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    So this is where it its coming apart for me. As you can see its still not perfectly sat in the chassis.

  8. #8
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    Now you are saying that this is where I want to add some aluminum washers ? Basically to keep it tight and prevent it from poping out ?

    The RPM skid is only like $10. Does the RPM fix the problem or will I still need to add spacers ?

  9. #9
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    Alright, I got some terrible pictures for ya! Here, the pocket I'm talking about is just below the servo saver nut. (Chassis is upside down.)


    The 3x40mm screws go where I'm pointing with the hex driver.


    This is where the screws will stick out when installed. Just grind 'em flush.


    Bad pics, I know. Hope this helps! IMO, the RPM skid is a fix for RPMs molding capabilities, not for the shortcomings of Traxxas's design. While you have the bellcrank out, you might as well grab four 5x8 bearings for it. After you install the screws, make sure that they are not too tight, causing a bind.

  10. #10
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    Bell crank thanks for the pics... Are you saying the rpm skid plate would also fix this issue or not ?

  11. #11
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    any one else ?

  12. #12
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    yes he had said it a couple times that the rpm skid is the fix to the bell crank pop out issue.

    and with the shock screws comeing out of the a arms give ca glue a try....becuase the stock a arms are going to need some long screws and some drilling to put on a lock nut
    summit /mustang /stampede-2s spc lipo

  13. #13
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    Thanks guys, Ordered the shock shafts and that the RPM skid ! Love this car ! My buddy has the SC10, and a lot more $$$$ into his car. They are very comparable, and about the same speed with my brushless set up !

  14. #14
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    Having a little trouble separating the bell crank from the oem skid. Any pointers?

  15. #15
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    Never mind I figure out that once you flip it over there is Allen keys on the inside

  16. #16
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    Just an update. I did the longer screw to hold my shocks to the arms, upper shock caps, rear titanium shock shafts, and the rpm skid plate to keep my steering mechanism together. So for about $20 I solved all my problems, and this car didn't let me down this time! Good enough for now! Thanks for the advise !






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