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  1. #41
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    So my SLW hubs finally arrived and I went to work. While you can use just a flat hex, it's not the most stable mounting point for bulky wheels. I wanted a more secure connection. As you can see, the hub has a ring indentation and a wide opening for the axle. With just a bare hex, it has the potential to wobble.



    A better mounting point would be a crawling hex like those used on some other vehicles. Unfortunately, even though these hexes are 5mm just like the Telluride axle, they have a step in them that is smaller. They catch on the step in the Telluride axle and won't reach the pin. DOH!



    The solution was to find a 5mm drill bit and bore out the crawler hex to fit over the Telluride axle. This is no easy task. Just try finding a 5mm drill bit at your local store. I finally got the bit in and went to work. Voila! The hexes fit perfectly now and take up all the slop on the SLW hubs. If you ever plan to use SLW hubs, you will definitely want this mod. Unfortunately I didn't need nearly the offset that I thought I did. The wheels almost clear the caster blocks as they are. Back go the 600 hubs and now I'm waiting for the 350s.


  2. #42
    RC Turnbuckle Jr.
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    Quote Originally Posted by E-Maxxdude View Post
    Funny, I don't recognize these parts...
    Has lights and starts with B?
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  3. #43
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. DiggerPede's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by E-Maxxdude View Post
    The weird thing is, they seem to fit in here perfectly. I wonder if something else will fit in there...

    I think I know what fits there too... waiting for the update to see it bolted up.

    I'm still waiting for the clear Telluride bodies to become available so I can convert my P4de into one.

    Have you tried moving the trigger to 70/30 for better FWD throttle control. Not sure if you are using the stock TQI or an after market TX/RX.

    Excellent job, I love it!!! Keep up the good work. I'm jealous.
    Weak Revenge
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  4. #44
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    Very cool ride man !!!

    You inspired me of a project. I'm gonna convert the spare Stampede 4x4 I have into a Telluride

    By the way, have you make your choice between -10% and -20% progressive springs ?? I hesitate on which to buy.

    And also, I'm planning to put 500K in the 2 diffs. Good choice ? or I should try like 300K first ??

    Keep the good job man and I loved your videos. They convinced me to give a try to that ride

  5. #45
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    Hmm...looks like someone is building some XO-1 diffs. I really hate building diffs. It's so hard to work with 500k silicone "fluid." I'm just glad it's over. I spent about 6 hours working on the Telluride tonight. More updates to follow.


  6. #46
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    I finally finished another round of mods. I think I'm nearing the endpoint soon. There's just not much else I can do to Telly mechanically. I tried him out today with a 3s LiPo and the motor didn't seem to have any trouble handling it so it looks like I'll be upgrading to a 5000 3s permanently. The motor gets warm after several full throttle speed passes, but it does that with the 9.6v battery also. As long as I'm not stupid with the throttle I think it will serve me well. I wish I could gear it down even further, but nothing smaller than a 9t pinion will mesh with the spur gear.

    The Flat Iron tires should be insane for rock crawling. They are stupidly soft and grippy. They balloon up pretty badly and have a tendency to wobble at high speed, but that's why they are crawler tires. I will stick with the Trenchers for trail running. There is some body rub during fast turns and braking. I trimmed the fenders slightly and that helped, but again, these tires are for crawling, not cornering. I won't be going fast on the trail so that shouldn't be an issue.

    Even with 500k diff "fluid," the diffs still aren't as locked as I would like. They're pretty loose actually compared to what I was expecting. Part of the problem may be that, with the XO-1 diffs, there really isn't room for very much fluid. I think I have seen 1M diff fluid. I might try that over silly putty.

    The fitment of the printed Summit adapters is good, but the front one didn't hold up. It broke apart when I tried to torque it down. I found a way to adapt part of a 1/10 Rally bumper to use as a mount. It's a very solid mount and should stand up to hard impacts. This was just a test rigging. I need to do a better fitment on the next one, but it will definitely work.



    I don't see any need to upgrade the rear bumper mount. It seems to be pretty solid. If I need to, I'm sure I can mill one out of some ABS plastic stock, but this will work great for now.



    Rear fitment of the wheels was obviously not an issue. I tried using the higher ground clearance holes on the axle carrier, but the driveshafts rub too much. Once I convert a set of metal driveshafts for the rear, they may not rub and then I can get more clearance.



    Front wheel clearance is not an issue at all with the 350 SLW hubs. I might be able to go down even one more size on the hubs, but I will stick with what I have.



    I think Telly has turned into a badass little crawler. I will have some awesome cosmetic changes coming next week that will really put him over the top. I will take some action shots then with him out on the trail conquering some rocks.
    Last edited by E-Maxxdude; 10-29-2013 at 11:02 PM.

  7. #47
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    Quote Originally Posted by E-Maxxdude View Post
    I think Telly has turned into a sick little crawler.
    Plus bashibility that not very many crawlers have, now all they need is a vxl version...
    Slash 4x4 LCG, Rusty VXL(not runnin), and my bike.

  8. #48
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    I like the way the Summit front bumper looks, but I didn't like the stock Summit light bar at all. I decided to replace it with the narrow proline light bar and it looks so much better now. I did need to trim a little off the ends of the bumpers to stop the bumpers from rubbing.



    I moved the shocks to the innermost holes which allows a lot more travel in the suspension, but you need a stiffer spring because there is more leverage from the A-arms with the shock in so close.

  9. #49
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    I ditched the last Rally mount and did a little better job cutting this one down. This one lines up almost perfectly and offers plenty of impact support.

    Last edited by E-Maxxdude; 10-31-2013 at 01:14 PM.

  10. #50
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    Dang dude, yer rig is lookin sweet!

  11. #51
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    Very very nicely done. Sweet looking rig.

  12. #52
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    It seems our image inserter is grumpy today
    Last edited by E-Maxxdude; 11-07-2013 at 11:01 AM.

  13. #53
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    It's looking great.

  14. #54
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    I tried out a roof rack and lights on my beater body. I love the fitment so it's definitely going on my show body as soon as it's finished. I got hold of some rear metal driveshafts so it looks like I'll be cutting them down this weekend.

    The only other thing I have planned is a 4ch TQi with telemetry. I'll use the extra channels to work the lights and the temp sensor to keep me from burning out the motor.

    I will have plenty of crawling videos coming soon I hope.
    Last edited by E-Maxxdude; 11-08-2013 at 02:08 AM.

  15. #55
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    That telluride looks awesome. Im seriously considering one next time i decide to buy an rc. Possibly after I sell a couple that i already have. It would be nice if traxxas had incorporated some features like diff lock and a low range like the summit has, but at the same time this is a pretty small and light platform and it would have raised the cost a lot so I can see why they didnt.
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  16. #56
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    Quote Originally Posted by CumminsDriver View Post
    That telluride looks awesome. Im seriously considering one next time i decide to buy an rc. Possibly after I sell a couple that i already have. It would be nice if traxxas had incorporated some features like diff lock and a low range like the summit has, but at the same time this is a pretty small and light platform and it would have raised the cost a lot so I can see why they didnt.
    I agree those would be awesome, but like you said, they would add cost, weight, and complexity to the Telluride. The Stampede/Telluride chassis is a nice starting point though. This was a project to see just how far I could take the truck. I'm very happy with the results so far.

    Some forums bag on Traxxas for reusing parts and designs throughout their product range, but they forget that's what makes them so easy to modify. I've got Stampede, Summit, Rally, E-Revo, XO-1, and Villain parts on my Telluride and all of them fit with minimal modification. You can do almost anything with one of these. The only limit is your imagination.
    Last edited by E-Maxxdude; 11-08-2013 at 09:12 AM.

  17. #57
    RC Turnbuckle Jr.
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    Looks nice!

    Last edited by danielhr77; 11-08-2013 at 09:33 AM.
    200, 202, 420, humor 404, 301 to rc10talk, 410.

  18. #58
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    You can do almost anything with one of these. The only limit is your imagination.
    Very true.

    I will have plenty of crawling videos coming soon I hope.
    Looking forward to seeing them. If the pictures are any indicator then it should be good. Well done on the build.

  19. #59
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    Behold, the world's first and only all-metal drive shaft Telluride!



    These were more work because evidently the rear suspension compresses the drive shafts more than the front. I cut off the same amount as last time, but the suspension would not travel all the way up. I had to take the half shafts out and cut off another millimeter. For this reason I cannot really recommend the rear conversion. I had to remove more of the spline drive than I felt comfortable. There is still enough to catch and drive the half shafts, but I think they may fail if given enough time. Before I put them all back together, I cleaned and repacked all the joints with Mobil 1 synthetic grease.

    I also added the rear shock guards as well as a fan to keep the ESC cool. The fan actually does a very good job of keeping the ESC cooler. It won't save me from cooking the ESC if I give it full throttle with the motor locked up, but it will keep my normal running temps down noticeably.
    Last edited by E-Maxxdude; 11-12-2013 at 01:43 AM.

  20. #60
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. pavmentsurfer's Avatar
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    Ofna makes a product called "diff lock fluid". Fluid is a pretty loosely used term. Lol.

    The stuff is like glue but DOES still allow for some diff action when necessary. Its the absolute worst stuff to work with and, so far, the only way I have found to get it off is with Mineral Salts… It does work great though.
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  21. #61
    RC Turnbuckle Jr.
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    Quote Originally Posted by pavmentsurfer View Post
    Ofna makes a product called "diff lock fluid". Fluid is a pretty loosely used term. Lol.

    The stuff is like glue but DOES still allow for some diff action when necessary. Its the absolute worst stuff to work with and, so far, the only way I have found to get it off is with Mineral Salts… It does work great though.
    Can't say I didn't warn you. HE HE.

  22. #62
    Traxxas Employee Happy Meal's Avatar
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    Ive used one from another manufacturer. Alot of drift guys use it. For the time that it takes to clean it out, though, I have found better luck just salvaging one of my worn out diffs and filling it with JB weld....this actually locks it up. Just make sure to let it cure with the diff on its side, otherwise, it will settle unevenly.

  23. #63
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    I don't think I will ever use anything lighter than 500k so I may lock up my stock diffs with putty and pop them in when I want to do some real rock crawling. I like what I have now for trails.

  24. #64
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    Gravity RC has 1 million diff stuff.

    http://www.stormerhobbies.com/cgi-bi...t.pl?pn=GRC400
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  25. #65
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    Quote Originally Posted by Happy Meal View Post
    Ive used one from another manufacturer. Alot of drift guys use it. For the time that it takes to clean it out, though, I have found better luck just salvaging one of my worn out diffs and filling it with JB weld....this actually locks it up. Just make sure to let it cure with the diff on its side, otherwise, it will settle unevenly.
    Yes, it can be difficult to remove, no doubt about it. I resorted to using chemicals that were not meant for cleanup duties and then followed up with a strong non-toxic degreaser to remove the chemical smell. I am in no way recommending this procedure for anyone else to try, but rather pointing out what it takes to completely remove the stuff. But in spite of the cleanup difficulties, I still use it in my Mini-Summit.

    As for the operating viscosity of Ofna Diff Lock; try thinking of pine pitch on a cold winter day in Ontario. Yep it will flow, but not readily. Does that describe it properly Pave?
    Last edited by Jakey; 11-12-2013 at 12:28 PM.

  26. #66
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    Instead of messing with glue and goo, I run the Hot Racing spools front and rear. I can be switched to open diffs in 20 min or less.
    http://www.hot-racing.com/index.cgi?...=SSLF125;c=603

  27. #67
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    Quote Originally Posted by John82601 View Post
    Instead of messing with glue and goo, I run the Hot Racing spools front and rear. I can be switched to open diffs in 20 min or less.
    http://www.hot-racing.com/index.cgi?...=SSLF125;c=603
    How has your luck been with them?
    Slash 4x4 LCG, Rusty VXL(not runnin), and my bike.

  28. #68
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    Quote Originally Posted by sean1214 View Post
    How has your luck been with them?
    So far they've been great. I'm running 2.2 Flat Irons on some DE racing 2.2/3.0 wheels to keep the track width down and have over a dozen 1-2hr runs on them. With my gear reduction and running on 3s, the factory slipper won't hold against the torque but, amazingly, nothing in the drivetrain has failed.

  29. #69
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    I've been wanting to take some good action shots outside, but the crappy weather is not cooperating. This will need to suffice until I can get a nice sunny day. I was going for an early Bronco look.


  30. #70
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    I played around with the body placement and now the fit is perfect




  31. #71
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    That looks fantastic. Well done.

  32. #72
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    Looks great! Did you paint the body yourself?
    Powered by Castle.....

  33. #73
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    Nice job with the mods. You are putting a nice twist on that Rc. Got high crawling hopes for your little telluride.


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  34. #74
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    The paint on the "Bronco" body is barely dry and now I've got another project. Say hello to the new Wrangler. Who says the Telluride can't be turned in to a scale truck!


  35. #75
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    emaxx dude, i have a set of those axial trail ready beadlocks with the 2.2 bfg rock cralwer tires i under stand in order to fit them i need the slw hubs just like you used but i see you are running 12mm aluminum hexs what brand r they and why didnt you just stay with the plastic stock ones..

    im running trencher sc tires now on the telly but i need more side wall bite

  36. #76
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    Dude awesome! PL extended body mounts?
    Slash 4x4 LCG, Rusty VXL(not runnin), and my bike.

  37. #77
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. Greatscott's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by E-Maxxdude View Post
    The paint on the "Bronco" body is barely dry and now I've got another project. Say hello to the new Wrangler. Who says the Telluride can't be turned in to a scale truck!

    Nice looking job on the body!

    What are you going to do about the WB difference between the body and the chassis?
    Submarine Qualified, Chief Inducted, Navy Retired

  38. #78
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. spenniepoos's Avatar
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    Wow your truck is just plain sick dudeLove it..........peace
    Famous last words...watch this!!!!

  39. #79
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    I finally got some decent weather this weekend






  40. #80
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. Greatscott's Avatar
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    Looks really good. The only thing I can suggest adding is a Proline chassis tray, that would get rid of the big holes you can seen on the last pic. The tray is for an AX10, but it can be modified with just a little bit of work.
    Submarine Qualified, Chief Inducted, Navy Retired

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